The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: September 2006

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September 2006 Archive

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September 25, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens

The latest creation by Serge Lutens and nose Chris Sheldrake is called Mandarine Mandarin. The lilting name given to the perfume reminds one that the mandarine fruit originally meant "the orange of the mandarin"and originates in East Asia. The historical evocation of an official from the past eating delicious oranges conjures up all the more golden yellow images of Imperial China.

A sumptuous blue celestial Chinese dragon decorates the 30 copies of the limited edition of the perfume which will be available for 800 Euros from November 2006 at the Salons du Palais Royal. The price for a bell-shaped flacon of Mandarine Mandarin, without the blue engraving, is 100 Euros. Notes are Chinese orange, nutmeg, candied orange, peels of mandarins of Sicilia, Black Mandarin, Cashmere musk, clove, honey, beeswax, smoked Chinese tea, thyme, labdanum, rock rose, Tonka bean, and ambergris.

The perfume evokes to me a slightly complicated atmosphere of both intellectual and sensual exoticism. The perfume wearer is invited to travel on the notes of crystallized Chinese orange peels, Lapsang Souchong (black smoked tea), and the drool of the dragon or ambergris, amongst others...

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens" »

Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

Perfume Review & Musings: Zibeline by Weil

Perfume Review & Musings: Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci

Perfume Review & Musings: Magical Moon by Hanae Mori

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (9)

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September 26, 2006

New Perfume: Essential for Men by Angel Schlesser

Angel Schlesser is set to launch Essential for Men. The perfume was composed by Alberto Morillas and is described as a citrusy fruity-floral. The bottle is meant to evoke the line of men's clothes from the brand.

"Angel Schlesser Essential for Men launches in Spain this month, followed by Russia and Asia later this year, then remaining markets in 2007. The 50ml EdT spray is priced €48 and the 100ml EdT spray is €65".

Source: Cosmetic News

Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

New Perfumes & New Line: The Unicorn Spell, Let Me Play The Lion..., & L'Antimatière by Les Nez.com

New Perfume: Lovely Liquid Satin by Sarah Jessica Parker

New Perfume: Secrète Afrique by Esteban

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (2)

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New Perfume: Blue Agava & Cacao by Jo Malone

Estée Lauder will release the latest Jo Malone fragrance called Blue Agava & Cacao. It is the 18th fragrance for the Jo Malone brand and the first one since Jo Malone's resignation took place in February 2006...

Continue reading "New Perfume: Blue Agava & Cacao by Jo Malone" »

Previous Posts in New Perfumes:

New Perfume: Essential for Men by Angel Schlesser

New Perfumes & New Line: The Unicorn Spell, Let Me Play The Lion..., & L'Antimatière by Les Nez.com

New Perfume: Lovely Liquid Satin by Sarah Jessica Parker

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (0)

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Beauty Notes: New Davi Skincare Line from the Modavi Winemaking Family

A new men's and women's skincare line called Davi will debut at Bergdof Goodman this fall and will remain exclusive to the store for a period of 6 months. The skincare products were developed by the Modavi winemaking family of Napa Valley, California and is packed with anti-oxydants naturally found in fermented grape extracts...

Continue reading "Beauty Notes: New Davi Skincare Line from the Modavi Winemaking Family" »

Previous Posts in BEAUTY NOTES:

Beauty Notes & Shopping Tips: Think About Bringing Solid Moisturizers on the Airplane

Lush Big Shampoo: Review

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Perfume Review & Musings: With Love by Hilary Duff & Some Thoughts On Its Similarities With Betsey Johnson

The new perfume by teen star Hilary Duff, With Love, continues the very popular, some would say, unimaginative, trend of fruity floral fragrances given a creamy, buttersccotch-y twist. The genre was made popular by Britney Spears and is primarily destined to please a younger set of women (15-24).

In this case, fine wood notes make it a more sophisticated type of fragrance susceptible to appeal to a more mature audience looking for a sensual playful, yet elegant perfume.

The perfume was created by Stephen Nilsen and Rodriguez Flores-Roux of Quest. It is a luscious gourmand fragrance with delicious fruity notes and seductive woods: sandalwood, cedar, and rarer "textured Cocobolo woods" undertones. I absolutely love the woods in this perfume; they are very finely textured.

Notes are, among others, Mangosteen fruit, spices, Mangosteen blossom, Cocobolo wood, amber milk, and amber musk. I also detect a boozy note which turns out to be Champagne according to one source. There is also a rich sandalwood, cedar, and coconut milk. The Mangosteen smells more like candied pineaple than Mangosteen only approximating the delicate and subtle frutiness of the Mangosteens of my childhood...

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: With Love by Hilary Duff & Some Thoughts On Its Similarities With Betsey Johnson" »

Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

Perfume Review & Musings: Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens

Perfume Review & Musings: Zibeline by Weil

Perfume Review & Musings: Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (12)

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The 5th Sense in the News: Custom-Made Perfumes

Vogue has an article on Five Great Custom Perfumers. The perfumers that are featured are: Miller Harris, Strange Invisible Perfumes, Creative Scentualization, Yosh, and Le Labo.

Previous Posts in The Fifth Sense in the News:

The 5th Sense in the News: Portrait & Interview of Serge Lutens in Luxury Culture

The 5th Sense in the News & Scented Thoughts: Two Articles by Chandler Burr in the NYT

The 5th Sense in the News: Interview with Roja Dove on Celebrity Perfumes, The Rise of Female Noses, Scents will be Used During The Story of a Murderer, The Launch of Intimately by Beckham

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (2)

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September 27, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: 1740 Le Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums

1740 is the year the Marquis de Sade (1740-1814) was born. As with the other eaux de parfums in the collection by Histoires de Parfums it is the name of one of their historically-inspired perfumes. The memory of the sulfurous Divine Marquis is said to have inspired the composition of a fragrance meant to convey the essence of seduction. The French text likes to stress that this is the scent of the most libertine of all the seducers and proposes itself to be the instrument of limitless seduction. This program will be carried out with the help of a "woody and leathery alchemy". Head notes are Italian bergamot, South Indian Davana Sensualis. Heart notes are patchouli, coriander, cumin, Indian cardamom. Base notes are patchouli, cedar, birch, Spanish cist labdanum, leather, vanilla, Everlasting (Immortelle)...

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: 1740 Le Marquis de Sade by Histoires de Parfums" »

Previous Posts in Perfume Review & Musings:

Perfume Review & Musings: With Love by Hilary Duff & Some Thoughts On Its Similarities With Betsey Johnson

Perfume Review & Musings: Mandarine Mandarin by Serge Lutens

Perfume Review & Musings: Zibeline by Weil

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (10)

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September 28, 2006

Scented Image: Perfume

Photo by Raindog

Previous Posts in Perfume Images & Adverts:

Scented Image: Le Parfum by Thierry Mugler, Part III

Scented Images: Still Images from Perfume, the Movie (Das Parfum)

Bonne Fête du 14 Juillet!

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September 29, 2006

Scented Thoughts: Not Knowing How To Perfume The Season

Bliss! I am starting to smell the crisp cool autumnal air of New England. This sensation is a forerunner of little celebrations of warmth, hot steaming mugs of mulled apple cider, coffee that sharpens the senses, candle lighting, breaths of warmth on one's frozen fingers, cosy fluffy ample enveloping scarves, smell of leaves and walks in the forest, and best of all a cool ambient air that needs to be infused with spices and amber. Now is the season for the deepest and richest Oriental scents to reveal their mystery. I want my perfumes to feel like glowing amber, rich cognac, and dark molasses...

Continue reading "Scented Thoughts: Not Knowing How To Perfume The Season" »

Previous Posts in Scented Thoughts:

Scented Thoughts: The Flacon of M.A. Sillage de La Reine by Le Château de Versailles

Scented Thoughts: My National Parfum

Scented Thoughts: Patriotic (American) Perfumes to Wear on the 4th of July, Some Modest Suggestions

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | Permalink | Comments (8)

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