The Scented Salamander: Perfume & Beauty Blog & Webzine: August 2007

August 2007 Archive

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August 24, 2007

Lalique Le Parfum Coffret V.I.P. by Lalique {Fragrance News} {Luxury Perfume}

Lalique Le Parfum Coffret VIP.jpg
Lalique is issuing a limited edition of Lalique Le Parfum in a red crystal flacon decorated with a motif designed by Lalique in 1935 called "Masque de femme" (Woman's mask)......

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Fragrant e-Books For Sale by Café Scribe {Fragrant Shopping}

Café Scribe, a site selling e-books is taking an innovative step to encourage people to buy its products. Starting in September of 2007, they will send their customers scented stickers with each purchase of an e-book. One will have to stick these onto one's computer to diffuse the fragrances. The selection comprises traditional scents associated with books, either that of musty old books or freshly printed ones.......

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Maxim's Sem & Belle Epoque Collections of Candles {New Perfumes} {Scented Candles}

Belle Epoque Maxim's.jpg

Maxim's de Paris is going to launch two collections of scented candles respectively called Sem and Belle Epoque. Sem will debut at Bergdorf Goodman in October 2007 and both lines will be more widely distributed after that. The first one is inspired by the art work of artist Georges Goursat also known as Sem, who used to draw caricatures of the restaurant's patrons and the second collection pays homage to the Belle Epoque heritage of Maxim's founded in 1893.......

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The Knize Ten by Knize {Perfume Review & Musings/Part II} {Fragrances of Paris}

After our previous excursus into some of the historic background of Knize Ten by Knize we now come to our impressions of the scent in part II of the review.

Knize Ten may have have had you expectant that it would hold the door for you and show off its perfectly pressed creases on its gray pearl pants while giving off "just the proper hint of Gentleman's Knize Ten cologne" as Patricia Soliman writes in Coco, The Novel, yet it suddenly morphs into a rococo, baroque form, a whirling ball gown under which some mirror-like shiny leather patent shoes peak and it suddenly is less Knize Ten and more Bal à Versailles created much later in 1962. The kinship is uncanny. It is that same treatment of the mosses and animalic odor di femina. But it could not have happened in the order we presented it to you. So what did take place? Little by little as the perfume unfolds, another familiar dancer appears that reveals yet another layer of historicity peeling back. Knize Ten becomes more clearly suffused with the golden light and round fruity peachy and plummy accents of Mitsouko by Guerlain introduced in 1919. This is a moving moment because Knize Ten now smells more like the ancient Mitsouko than the current Mitsouko itself. It has preserved this old gilded opulence and sillage of old Europe and sense of ideal Parisian elegance that have receded from Mitsouko.......

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Diesel Fuel For Life For Her & Him {New Fragrances} {Scented Image}

As previously reported (please see story board), Diesel is launching Fuel For Life For Her and Fuel For Life For Him. The global launch is scheduled for this coming Monday. The women's scent is described as a floral chypre and was composed by team of perfumers Annick Ménardo and Thierry Wasser. The men's scent is said to be a powdery fougère and was created by Annick Ménardo together with Jacques Cavallier......

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August 25, 2007

The Vogue of Teens Perfumes {The 5th Sense in the News} {Scented Image}

As American young men have become apparently addicted to body sprays, Disney offers perfume lines targeting younger and younger consumers, and more and more candy-like notes crop up even in fragrances targeting more mature women, we might all be feeling the impact of an exacerbated youth culture in perfumery. Frederic Malle, an upscale elitist perfume house has even recently decided to partly dress down its brand image, in a manner of speaking, by offering a niche perfume for the young evoking jeans and clean laundry called Outrageous!........

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August 27, 2007

Business Is Always Risky, How About Going Into Perfume Decanting? {Fragrance News}

Osmoz is raising an issue today about which we had been wondering as well. Are the newly cropping-up decanting businesses legitimate? We already know that the answer would be "no" and a zero-tolerance policy in France where perfume decanting would be considered illegal. Are the USA more lax about it? Should buyers seriously worry that they might be considered as engaging in an illegal activity? Are the sellers themselves fully aware of possible legal consequences in the US? For our part, we sent a request for clarification to Patty Geissler of The Perfumed Court a couple of weeks ago around the time of their Grand Opening, which was left unanswered.....

Photo of the different sizes offered by The Perfumed Court

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Visa by Robert Piguet (2007) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance/Advance Review}

Since the Robert Piguet label was bought by Fashion Fragrances and Cosmetics Ltd., the company has re-introduced several perfumes from the former Parisian couture house's catalog, including two of their most famous creations, Bandit and Fracas, which have enjoyed classical status in 20th century perfume history. If you like leather perfumes and chypres, you would have to be able to speak first-hand of the rubber-boot and ashtray nuances of Bandit, even if you do not personally appreciate the perfume or it does not agree with you. If you are partial to the scent of tuberose, you would have to seek out Fracas, and if not love it, at least be able to quote your classics.

Last year, a respectful, younger reformulation of Piguet Baghari was issued, which offered a retro charm while managing to smell contemporary at the same time. This time, Aurélien Guichard, the perfumer behind Bond No.9 Chinatown, Nina Ricci Love in Paris, Piguet Baghari and now Piguet Visa and Cravache in their 2007 updated versions, seems to have elected more fully to anchor the new perfume in the present. Visa (2007) smells quite modern and seems to have decided to eschew vintage references.......

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August 28, 2007

Thierry Mugler Angel's Plural Formulations & Toxicity ? {The 5th Sense in the News}

Thierry Mugler Angel is periodically the object of scrutiny and attacks by a health foundation called National Toxic Encephalopathy Foundation. Why this perfume comes under attack only and in particular is not altogether clear as it would seem difficult to think that it contains such unique ingredients.

A new announcement was released yesterday which addresses renewed toxicity issues and linked to that, issues of information transparency with Clarins, the distributor for the Thierry Mugler brand. What we retain from the article is the fact that two chemical analyses of the composition of the perfume conducted in 2004 and 2007 have revealed that,

Based on the prior deformulation and the current listed ingredients, only 5 of the prior ingredients were incorporated into the current Angel formula.....

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Guy Robert's Thoughts On Perfumery {Fragrant Reading}

Thanks to a member of Basenotes, we came across a wonderful humorous text by perfumer Guy Robert, which had us in stitches. His reflections are excerpted from the newsletter of the British Society of Perfumers of August 1998:

The serious part:

My most important quest was to define which are the essential "building blocks" giving its character to the most important perfumes, and which are the numerous and useless components we usually "pile up" in a formula.

Being humorous about the difficult work of the perfumer:

"There are also several other ways to work:

- the lazy way : you take a classical "accord" : to work around it is easy. But the result may not be as original as the hundreds of recent creations lately appearing on the market ...

- Another way (unfortunately!) is to take the idea of a friend (preferably a dead friend).

You are there, facing two different cases :

If you are a well known and very successful perfumer, everybody will find your creation "so" original. And if somebody with too good a nose or a too precise memory complains, you could always quote our French poet Alfred de Musset who, accused to have imitated your poet Byron said

"even growing cauliflowers is imitating somebody!".......

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August 2007 Archive

Page 8 of 9 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9

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August 24, 2007

Lalique Le Parfum Coffret V.I.P. by Lalique {Fragrance News} {Luxury Perfume}

Fragrant e-Books For Sale by Café Scribe {Fragrant Shopping}

Maxim's Sem & Belle Epoque Collections of Candles {New Perfumes} {Scented Candles}

The Knize Ten by Knize {Perfume Review & Musings/Part II} {Fragrances of Paris}

Diesel Fuel For Life For Her & Him {New Fragrances} {Scented Image}

August 25, 2007

The Vogue of Teens Perfumes {The 5th Sense in the News} {Scented Image}

August 27, 2007

Business Is Always Risky, How About Going Into Perfume Decanting? {Fragrance News}

Visa by Robert Piguet (2007) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance/Advance Review}

August 28, 2007

Thierry Mugler Angel's Plural Formulations & Toxicity ? {The 5th Sense in the News}

Guy Robert's Thoughts On Perfumery {Fragrant Reading}

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