September 2008 Archive

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September 11, 2008

Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan Opens Standalone Store {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}

Saint-Aignan-Boutique.jpgNiche perfumer Stéphanie de Saint-Aignan opened her first standalone boutique in the Marais neighborhood this summer 2008.

Good choice! The Marais is certainly the area of Paris in which I have smelled the most numerous niche-perfume trails.

She is not the only one to have recently decided to locate her perfumery there (see Diptyque, The Different Company) which makes that quarter even more one of the must-perfume-circuits-to-tour for perfumistas.

Address:
Boutique du Marais
26, rue de Poitou
75003 Paris
Tel: 01 42 24 07 99

Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {New Fragrance}


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Perfume house Fragonard has launched a new exclusive jus bottled in the same amphora-type flacon as Billet Doux re-introduced in 2006, but onyx-black this time. Called Caresse, the scent was originally introduced in 1929 by Fragonard in-house perfumers and has now been re-interpreted.

Like Billet Doux, it wishes to pay homage to the flora of the Côte d'Azur. It is described as a gourmand and subtle perfume....

Continue reading "Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {New Fragrance}" »

Réminiscence Sol La, Si Do (2008): Rich Inspiration {New Perfumes} - The Queen's Perfume {Trend Alert}

Sol-La-Reminiscence copy.jpgFashion jewelry brand Réminiscence, which reportedly were the first to introduce costume-jewelry collections following the rhythm of the fashion calendar for spring/summer and fall/winter shows, have released their two latest perfumes in that Notes Gourmandes collection which marked 2008.

 Sol La and Si Do come after Do Ré and Mi Fa introduced in the spring of 2008. 

Like their predecessors, the new Eaux de Parfum are inspired by gustatory notes, music, and queen Marie-Antoinette who is fast becoming a major cultural icon in France. The delightful charming pastel colors of the flacons seem to allude to the Versailles universe re-created by Sofia Coppola in her unconventional biopic about the former queen of France. And at this point I think that a post on all the scented products taking inspiration in Marie-Antoinette is warranted because there exists definitely a cultural and fashion trend in that direction going beyond yesterday's fad.

Another noticeable trend illustrated here is the one where perfumes are inspired more generally by queens (see M.A. Sillage de la Reine, La Reine Margot, Amyitis, Sublime Balkiss, Wode...), as in a distant echo of this seminal ancient perfume, L'Eau de la Reine de Hongrie...

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Continue reading "Réminiscence Sol La, Si Do (2008): Rich Inspiration {New Perfumes} - The Queen's Perfume {Trend Alert}" »

40% Off Roja Dove The Essence of Perfume For Our Readers {Shopping Tip}


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Following TSS's announcement yesterday about the upcoming book by Roja Dove The Essence of Perfume, we are able to inform our gracious readers that Black Dog Publishing is offering, as of today, a 40 % discount off the purchase price of the book. The original price is £44 and $70 and the book is not meant to be released until a little later on this fall (depending on countries). So don't miss this opportunity to get an early copy!

Description of the book from the ad copy:

"The Essence of Perfume is a lavishly illustrated journey through the history of perfume, taking in the glamour and scandal of the industry as well the science behind iconic scents.

Roja Dove is without doubt the world's leading fragrance authority. Described not only as a perfume historian but also a storyteller, Dove's genuine passion and often risqué wit are infused within the pages of this authoritative guide to the world of perfume. The book includes chapters encompassing the social and scientific history of scent...

Parfumerie Diaphane advert, an illustration taken from The Essence of Perfume

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Boudicca Wode: Art Fragrance, Not Just Perfume (2008) {New Fragrance}

Boudicca-Wode.jpgUK Fashion label Bouddicca will introduce, not only what could just be a debut fragrance line, but a more revolutionary concept called Art Fragrance. This art is expressed through an Eau de Toilette called Wode, accompanied by a bottle of Wode scented blue paint with fading properties. "Wode" means "wood" but also "mad" and was used to describe at times the furor of a warrior. The word appears in a pun by Shakespeare in Midsummer Night's Dream: "And heere am I, and wod within this wood."   

Wode is directly inspired by the legend of the life of Iceni warrior-queen Boudica a.k.a Boadicea (died A.D. 60 or 61), whose name means "victory", known for having led an uprising of  East-Anglian tribes against the occupational forces of the Roman empire. Author Cassius Dio described her in this excerpt,

"...a terrible disaster occurred in Britain. Two cities were sacked, eighty thousand of the Romans and of their allies perished, and the island was lost to Rome. Moreover, all this ruin was brought upon the Romans by a woman, a fact which in itself caused them the greatest shame....But the person who was chiefly instrumental in rousing the natives and persuading them to fight the Romans, the person who was thought worthy to be their leader and who directed the conduct of the entire war, was Buduica, a Briton woman of the royal family and possessed of greater intelligence than often belongs to women....In stature she was very tall, in appearance most terrifying, in the glance of her eye most fierce, and her voice was harsh; a great mass of the tawniest hair fell to her hips; around her neck was a large golden necklace; and she wore a tunic of divers colours over which a thick mantle was fastened with a brooch. This was her invariable attire."

She also reportedly went into battle with her daughters in front of her, leading a chariot and shouting words of encouragement...

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Continue reading "Boudicca Wode: Art Fragrance, Not Just Perfume (2008) {New Fragrance}" »

September 10, 2008

Roja Dove The Esssence of Perfume: New Book {Fragrant Reading} {Shopping Tip}


The-Essence-of-Perfume.jpgFragrance expert Roja Dove has written his first book on the subject of his long-time passion, entitled The Essence of Perfume. While he is known for his lectures and frequent appearances in the media, as well as his temple of bon goût dedicated to the art of perfumery, the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, he had not felt the need so far to write down his thoughts...

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Schiaparelli Shocking Re-Launched By Haute Parfumerie {Fragrance News}

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Shocking by Schiaparelli (1937), still currently available in its modernized form at discount stores, has now been re-launched in style and in its original formulation by the Roja Dove Haute Parfumerie at Urban Retreat at Harrods,

"Composed of over 500 ingredients, the original floral has been re-launched in a limited edition Baccarat numbered crystal bottle, the shape of which is based on the curvaceous torso of Mae West."

Roja Dove is an expert in historical vintage fragrances and as announced earlier, we can also expect a careful reorchestration of yet another classic, Weil Zibeline, thanks to his endeavors.

For more information or mail order please telephone 020 7893 8797

Via Urban Retreat website

September 9, 2008

Ralph Lauren Puts A Price Tag On Super Premium Love {Fragrance News}


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Consider this recession-proof alternative: 7 Drops of Love for $1,60 at Divinafe.com, vaudoo ritual not included


Marketing Week, a UK trade journal, announced that Ralph Lauren will launch an ultra-selective perfume called Love in October 2008 at Harrods, available for the modest purchase price of £2000, or US $3515 at current conversion rate.

If at first it seems and probably does borrow the idea of amped exclusivity from Clive Christian, the man selling the most expensive fragrance in the world for $200 000, mostly for the bejeweled bottle (30 ml of the pure parfum costs only $2, 350), it adds a psychological twist to it. As one of our guest contributors, Christina Warinner, pointed out in her articles about her experience as an ex-fragrance model, women mostly seem to want to buy hope and dreams of love and a better life when buying perfume. The fragrance itself is a pretext.  Indeed it gets even more transparently interesting when we learn that the jus is aimed at young women 25 years old and more with "high spending powers"...

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For a fraction of the price, you get Romance, not Love by Ralph Lauren, which is only fair. After all, it is not exactly the same quality (of feelings).

Continue reading "Ralph Lauren Puts A Price Tag On Super Premium Love {Fragrance News}" »

New Fuel for Life Unlimited Commercial {Perfume Ad}

diesel_Unlimited.jpgDiesel has set up a micro-website for their new flanker to Diesel Fuel for Life, Unlimited. You can watch the commercial which is like a cross between the movie Barry Lyndon and a pajama party set in the Jazz Age. The new scent is being advertised as "for women only".

Fuel for Life Unlimited Film

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Article About Olivia Giacobetti: IUNX Is Back In Business {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}


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To me, perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is a little bit like the feminine counterpart to perfumer Jean Claude Ellena. Both are fascinated by the element water and its smell. Both are obsessed with transparent, diaphanous textures. Both plow their paths in this perfumery direction in a very consistent, deep manner. Both not just do this kind of perfumery but enjoy less ethereal unusual gourmand accords (in fact both seem to love to eat good food).

To compare their works more closely would be extremely interesting.

The September 2008 issue of the magazine Atmosphères has a 1-page article about perfumer-composer Olivia Giacobetti, who reveals that she "cannot stand not to smell good".

In order to be able to perfume herself while respecting the constraint of olfactory neutrality she needs to have for her work, she reportedly just dabs on two drops of a diluted version of IUNX Eau Blanche on her neck so that it has time to evaporate by the time she reaches her lab...

Continue reading "Article About Olivia Giacobetti: IUNX Is Back In Business {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}" »

September 2008 Archive

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