Serge Lutens Dent de Lait (2017) {New Fragrance}


Portrait of a child wearing his milk tooth as a pendant © Serge Lutens

Serge Lutens will launch a new, unisex perfume composition baptized with the quizzical name of Dent de Lait (Milk Tooth) in the Black Collection. Fragrance names are usually chosen for their attractiveness quotient. "Dent de Lait" on a perfume bottle - and even in French - sounds...anatomical, an idea seemingly borrowed from a cabinet of curiosities. No, there won't be a floating fake milk tooth inside the flacon to bemuse all further...

The perfume story, from what can be gleaned from the arcane text written by the brand founder, is a renewed incursion into the world of Lutens's childhood memories. In filigree, we gauge anew his obsession with his own mortality.


Very little is said about the perfume itself. References made to milk and blood could imply there are eponymous accords. Rumour has it that the milk is coconut milk as well as perhaps almond milk. There is a blood accord, apparently. Aldehydes too. And perhaps incense.

The Lutens / Shiseido press office are not saying anything too detailed from the get-go.

His long-time collaborator perfumer Christopher Sheldrake co-signs the jus.

Lutens, generally speaking, discourages any knowledge that is too factual and precise about his perfumes. Gathering matter-of-fact information about them is like pulling teeth - pun intended - or at least it feels that way often, but not here.

A photographic portrait of a child by Serge Lutens, a photographer before he turned fragrance creator, is presented as an illustration for the perfume.

The fragrance is available in 100 ml, a change from the classic 50 ml pocket flacons as the line is getting overhauled packaging-wise. No perfumes will be discontinued, we were told. The scents are now also significantly more expensive than in the past, 180€.

Dent de Lait Launches from June 19, 2017.

[Via Press Release]

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