Estee Lauder Bronze Goddess Eau de Parfum (2017) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

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Estee Lauder issued a new version of Bronze Goddess in 2017, as a companion scent to the Eau Fraîche (2008), first born under Tom Ford's auspices as Azurée Soleil (2007), and which became a runaway success the first time it came out. Flew off the shelves. Back in stock later. Throngs of beautistas on waiting lists mental and virtual...

Bronze Goddess Eau de Parfum is said to continue to weave the luminous, solar theme of the first scent, but now with an impression of warm sand beach during the blue hour. It is meant to be a more intense jus too.

The structure of the scent is described by the house as resting, not on a pyramid, in a classic sense by following an evaporation curve, but on three main threads. There is the "sensual" thread with amber, coconut milk, sandalwood, vanilla, vetiver and myrrh; there is the "warm" thread, with mandarin, Sicilian bergamot, lemon and orange; and then, there is the "vibrant" thread with tiaré blooms, jasmine, magnolia petals, orange blossom buds and lavender.

To the nose at first, there is clearly an Ethylmaltolization of the original; but more than that, it is simply an Ethylmaltolization deemed necessary, apparently, in this day and age. Of course, the term is a barbarism, does not exist; but one arguably needs it to describe the process a perfume undergoes nowadays as it gets an injection of Ethyl Maltol for good health - that more or less light or heavy smell of sugar syrup, so popular since Angel by Thierry Mugler (1992) and which has become even more so with Lancôme La Vie est Belle (2012).

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If sugar is looked upon with suspicion in foodstuff processed in industrial quantities, it is looked upon with a sense of security when it comes to industrially produced quantities of perfume. It guarantees popularity, on paper. Here, it is unadvertized but present in medium quantities. The brand does mention "an unexpected current loaded with ginger extract..." The "unexpected current" might be a rivulet of dissolved sugar. Bronze Goddess has thus become a member of the gourmand family, in this new edp form.

Your reaction might be negative initially because this feels too much like déjà-vu. The composition however soon thrums subtler nuances of coconut - roasted, lightly sweet, realistic - which prevents the scent from becoming a simple commercial effort in banality and replication of a safe formula.

The opening is woodsier than the original. The mandarin is juicy. The absolute of vanilla contributes to the new cake-like tonality. The jasmine is a bit meringue-y. This is a warm, fairly thick composition, with notes like myrrh and sandalwood and coconut milk leaving virtually no place for the sunlight to filter through. It deepens its deep-velvet effect over the course of its development instead of relenting. The woods are reminiscent of the signature "molten woods" accord that the brand introduced with Sensuous (2008), then presented as liquid woods fit for women. The fragrance leaves a lasting buttery / caramel-y scent on clothes, another reminder of Estée Lauder's signature feminine buttery woods inaugurated with Sensuous. In the long drydown, you can detect a quote of the magnolia-vanilla-amber accord of Tocade by Rochas. Lately, this olfactive quote has been popping up everywhere. At least, I keep happening on it.

Bronze Goddess Eau de Parfum is a warm and enveloping perfume meant to work as a nocturnal or dressier counterpart to the Eau Fraîche - it could be worn during the day, of course. It is pleasant and easy to wear, bringing a new richness of sensations - with a sophisticated gourmand touch - to the hedonistic beach scent.

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