Aerin Beauty launched a new Tuberose Collection with a day-and-night duo, the "second Premier Collection opus", according to the label, in a line dedicated to "artisanal, luxurious and unique olfactive ingredients."
Aerin's tuberose for day wear, which we shall review first, is not a shy interpretation after all. The flower, which according to folklore, is reputed for its olfactive power potent enough to alter the mental states of maidens et al., while disturbing the normal coursing of human hormones, smells like a tuberose bloom-dame who means business. It is not relinquishing any of its earth-given impact. It is adding on human artifices and reining in science...
The initial impression it makes on you is explosive and unedited. The composition retains the Venus-trap aspects of the dangerous floral scent. It smells buttery, indolic - with excess. But this is what you're supposed to love about tuberoses, their too-muchness, their raw power.
It is just a little bit surprising that Aerin Lauder's polished library of scents has welcomed such a break from form. Officially, Tuberose Le Jour is supposed to be "airy", "fresh", "sunny" and "delicate". Maybe something gets lost in translation because as I am inhaling the perfume now, it smells also "carnal", "intoxicating", "smoldering" and "potent." Beware of still waters and polite PR. Below the calm surface of Aerin Tuberose Le Jour's cool, you will discover an intense, hot-blooded tuberose.
The brand has reportedly made use of two main, cutting-edge perfumery ingredients to create this here bold soliflore: Tuberose Co-extraction and Tuberose Dawn NaturePrint. The first one is a blend of natural tuberose with a jasmine-like scent, which is meant to impart a clear and fluid signature to the composition. Tuberose Dawn NaturePrint is a capture of the natural scent of Tuberose buds at dawn as they are on the point of opening up. Its effect is supposed to be petaly and dewy, with sophisticated sensations of "texture and movement."
When Tuberose Le Jour starts on its journey, it smells terrous, green and almost medicinal. A citrus note then, but also a more mandarin-like one, make you leave the scene of crime, distracting your attention from the compelling, air-sucking flower. It starts smelling more Italian, more garden-like, less raw, thanks, as it turns out, to neroli and orange blossom A discreet bitter almond nuance adds a sense of artful artifice. This, you realize after a while is that sweet, milky, pastry-like note from Virginian cedar. All the while however, you do remain in mined territory with a deepening of sensations around the potent nuances of tuberose buds ready to embalm your nose. The perfumer has managed to create a tuberose soliflore which is ever, continuously compelling, intoxicating and carnal, but at the same time, fresh.
Tuberose Le Jour is a multi-layered rendition of a natural beauty. It is a state-of-the-art tuberose soliflore, which has been furthermore devised like an aphrodisiac; as you better gauge the diffusiveness of the cedarwood in space in particular, you know this was not designed to be a wallflower tuberose. It's pulling out nearly all the stops that nature has given it, and then some.
Fragrance notes: neroli, orange blossom, tuberose, cool jasmine, Cashmeran and cedarwood.