Aerin Tuberose Le Soir (2017) {Perfume Review & Musings}


The other day, we reviewed Aerin Tuberose Le Jour. Today, we're looking at its vesperal counterpart, Tuberose Le Soir. The flower (Polianthes tuberosa) naturally emitting a bold floral scent, and daytime perfume-wear being in principle more restrained than the evening-time one, and Tuberose Le Jour being already quite va-va-voom - so how to convey further intensity?...

The answer is that Tuberose Le Soir adds to the immediate potency of tuberose by playing with a continuum of muskiness. We're not saying "musk," but "muskiness." Because the effect is more comprehensive than usual, going beyond that of mere, straightforward, identifiable, synthetized animalic, or laundry musk - pick your poison.

The tuberose at the core of the fragrance now comes wrapped in a range of suggestive notes. It smells of the kind of realistic human musk - not zooey - derived from perspiration - salt crystals forming on skin and, apparently, saliva, as if somehow, you had licked your arm rather than used a handkerchief to wipe the sweat crystals away. You're inhaling the scent of dried-up saliva in the sun, on skin.

But then, the composition becomes also more animalic, in that sense of how an animalistic jasmine can feel at night, letting out heavy indoles meant to attract pollinators of the night. Furthermore, it becomes even more doggedly musky, thanks to a note which smells a bit like urine, urinal cakes, or mass-market white savon de Marseille - the latter, which can suddenly smell of heaving, summertime jasmine when mixed accidentally with other substances, as we found out.

So now, the diptych of Aerin tuberoses comes better into focus. While in Tuberose Le Jour, the jasmine was cool and collected, in Tuberose Le Soir, the white florals are more uncontrolled thanks to the addition of ylang-ylang and the research on suggestive, humoral notes. The tuberose is more or less equal to itself - even a bit more subdued in the evening version - but it is the ylang-ylang which gives the cue. The perfume lab did a variation on the tuberose showcased here by blending Tuberose Absolute Essence et Tuberose Dusk NaturePrint, the latter being a capture of the scent wafting in a field of tuberoses in India at sunset.

The vanilla warms up the composition making it more of a velvet-like floriental, but it also tones down in a way the sheer, natural potency of tuberose.

If you're looking for a pure sensation of tuberose, go for the daytime version, which is about a diffusive rendition of a rich bloom. If you're actually more into the idea of a mix of sensations with tuberose at the core, then the evening version will be more your jam.

Both compositions however continue to build around the myth of Polianthes tuberosa as an aphrodisiacal flower. In the end, you could neatly categorize the duo by pointing out that the daytime version is more inhibited, while the nightime version is more uninhibited.

Fragrance notes

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