Mugler has added a ninth composition this fall of 2017 to Les Exceptions collection destined to connoisseurs primarily, entitled Wonder Bouquet, the meeting of bran with white flowers...
Perfumer Jean-Christophe Hérault has picked up where he left off his train of thought last time with Hot Cologne in the same range, also composed by him. Re-reading my review of it, I see I noted then that,
"It is when Hot Cologne plays with break of tone and asymmetry that the jus becomes a bit more next-level. Green nuances escape the subtle brasero of notes. White tropical petals manage to grow on burnt forest ashes."
And it is precisely what Wonder Bouquet is about this time. It pulls out those white floral notes that felt incongruous in the midst of the perfume, which also contained cereal-y nuances, and showcases it front and center. The nose explained,
"Upon a classically-inspired floral structure, the baker twist is surprising. More than just being a surprise guest, bran, with its warm-bread tonalities, is key to the construction of the perfume."
"Sur une structure florale d'inspiration classique, le décalage boulanger est surprenant. Plus qu'un invité surprise, le son, aux tonalités de pain chaud, est très important dans la construction du parfum."
For the brand, it is a "thousand-petal bouquet wrapped in a surprising gustatory veil," in keeping with its pioneering history in the field of gourmand perfumes, which they created.
A layered white-floral bouquet rests on three main white flowers. There is the fresh muguet note symbolizing innocence and youth; next, an absolute of orange blossom represents the age of reason as it is traditionally associated with wedding rituals in France; then, an absolute of sambac jasmine strikes a more opulent, animalic and sensual note. All of this is wrapped in a brioche accord and associated with an absolute of bran evoking warm bread.
We can now re-smell Frédéric Malle En Passant at this point, as it is a bread-y lilac floral scent, which was created by perfumer Olivia Giacobetti back then in 2000 when the association was even more surprising. In Wonder Bouquet, the cereal-absolute idea has come of age. It is not just "surprising" as nose Hérault stresses, it is a key structural element. Perhaps, Giacobetti would say that her wheat absolute was a key structural element too. But perhaps, we could ponder the potential difference with our noses and see if this is indeed a new nuance: surprise ornament vs. architectural brick-laying.