Little Sequin Dress by Avon smells much better than I expected even though I knew this was a composition by Caroline Sabas of Givaudan. All I could get from the uncapped bottle at first was a whiff of laundromat white musks - a stale idea, especially in a mass-market fragrance. But then, bang! As soon as you spray from the bottle you are treated to a lovely fruity-floral accord, delicate, joyous, gourmand - the latter in a metaphorical way more than in a literal one. It feels like it is - and consequently you are - ready to bite into life itself...
Although mango and mandarin notes are cited as making up the opening of the fragrance, I find that the effect comes across quite a bit as raspberry and later, peach, with a hint of sulfur. Sabas, I noticed, has some kind of fetish for peach - and behind it for Mitsouko by Guerlain. In Nicole Miller (2009), this is quite obvious as both peach ode and Mitsouko inspiration.
The pesky white musks you detected in LSD early on come through, but are very well balanced and function as a counterpoint to the round fruity notes. In fact, it feels a bit like eating a spoonful of strawberry jam mixed with green Wasabi mustard powder. There might be some unadvertized aldehydes at work too, just like in Nicole Miller.
The floral heart is sheer, tart, fruity, musky and glowing, with a smidgeon of creamy peaches and caramel. But everything remains very subtle. You do capture nuances of gardenia, ylang, sandalwood, amber, and peppery orchids. But once again, everything meshes great.
This is a beautiful blend at a modest price point. It is linear but nuanced. The balance of notes is excellent. What's more, the perfumer has managed to convey a mood.
It reminds me of the original new Miss Dior (2005) concocted by Christine Nagel as buttery popcorn and strawberry coming accross as very impertinent and very Parisian. Since its disappearance from the face of the earth, I have longed to find a similar scent capable of reminding you with one push of the button of the levity of life and all of its pleasures. This is close.