Among fall launches 2018, may we invite you to spritz on some of Mon Evidence by Yves Rocher? There are several conditions which you must fulfill to make the effort worth your while. You have to love well-balanced perfumes; you have to enjoy happy ones; you must have a taste for rose jam of the thickest quality possibly available; you must not hate a raspberry being thrown in the mix. If all of these prerequisites are fulfilled, you may head to an Yves Rocher boutique and see how the fragrance fares on your skin...
Composed by renowned perfumers Annick Menardo and Olivier Cresp of Firmenich, the juice is an ode to decadence. Imagine taking a bath in rose petal jam possibly jazzed up by a thimble of Champagne - the sparkle of the chypré accord - and infused with vanilla pods. You want to say it's too much but in reality it's just as it should be. Who wants to wear a miserly pared-down rose scent after smelling the latest iteration of Comme Un Evidence? The new "obvious" truth is that Mon Evidence smells like a horn of plenty in a time of dire straits. This is a very full, carnal composition - without any sexual innuendos. It's just very fleshy.
A Damascena rose from the region of Isparta in Turkey was used for its fullness, richness and youthfulness. No hint of antiquarianism here. The perfume is very much full of energy and celebratory of life. It is not interested in evoking nostalgia, or the past. You are splashing in it rather than smelling some refined petals pressed in an old book (the reference is not fortuitous, for oftentimes old books smell of vanilla.) You are even wallowing in rosiness of the first order of jamminess. This is a joyous perfume.
While delicately and plentifully jammy, the composition is not gourmand. There are echoes in Mon Evidence of the spirit of the first modern, reworked Miss Dior, the one which combined the smells of popcorn and strawberry thanks to the creative mind of Christine Nagel, who is now at Hermès. In Mon Evidence, the same lust for life is apparent, only slightly less couture and tailored - less locally Parisian. But, oh, the zest for life is absolutely there!
This newest incarnation of the rose-patchouli chypré accord does add something to the conversation whispered by roses over the centuries. It is an arduous feat to create a rose perfume of note, but Menardo and Cresp manage to do just that, without any complexes. It is not a brainy rose, a twisted rose, a witty rose. it is a joyous rose.
Some help was gotten from perfumer Michel Almairac, but it is hidden help. In the deepest recesses of the fragrance you discover the presence of the beautifully lush Burberry for Women (1995), which adds its fruity-floral chypré aura thanks to its own nuances of cassis and apple. But Mon Evidence does that in an extremely masterful way. It's a folding-in. There is no hint of slavishness. It is just like resting your head on someone's shoulder.
If Elizabethan figures dreamt of cooking rose perfumes to perfection by commingling caster sugar and rose petals in copper pots, 5 centuries later their dream of sweet, thick, jam-like rose scents has come to fruition. Their imaginings, which they could only but fleetingly capture as vapor inhaled over the stove, is now bottled and ready to wear in all of its fullness and lastingness.