Serge Lutens Des Clous pour une Pelure (2020) {New Fragrance}

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Serge Lutens have added a new unisex scent called - with a word-play in French - Des Clous pour une Pelure. It literally means something like "Rubbish for Junk,"without sounding as rude or a jumble of Americano-British (we can't choose.) It is part of the collection Les Eaux de Politesse, the house line dedicated to self-effacement, good manners, and freshness...

In 2010, Lutens got reportedly fed up with the ways in which the niche perfume industry had turned more and more into copycats of his seminal works such as Féminité du Bois (1992) and Ambre Sultan, that is the Orientalist trend and the deep focus on one raw, storied material. So he decided to become contrarian with his own heritage and launched the first perfume in the Eaux de Politesse or Politeness Eaux, with L'Eau, which he saw as something of an anti-perfume.

10 years later, Des Clous pour une Pelure corresponds to what he describes as

"...the desire to associate basic elements with water. This dual orientation of my work in perfumery, it is the difference between a Velasquez and a Malevitch. The "Eaux"- they are a white square against a white background." [Editor's translation]

"...l'envie d'associer à l'eau des éléments basiques. Cette double orientation dans ma parfumerie, c'est la différence entre un Vélasquez et un Malévitch. Les Eaux, c'est un carré blanc sur fond blanc."

The new fragrance rests primarily on the idea of the scent of an orange pomander studded with spicy cloves, albeit interpreted as a fresh, cooling scent, rather than a warm, Christmas-y one.

The brand is owned by the Shiseido group, and the perfumer usually co-signing the perfumes is Christopher Sheldrake, who also works for Chanel.

Price: 120€ for 100 ml of Eau de Parfum.

[Source: press release]


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