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Estée Lauder Sensuous Noir

Mary J. Blige My Life

Lisa Hoffman Madagascar Orchid

Marc Jacobs Bang

Chanel Bleu de Chanel

Nina Ricci Nina L'Elixir

Bio' Rêve Sensuelle

Houbigant Quelques Fleurs l'Original

Jo Malone English Pear and Freesia

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar

Armani Acqua di Gioia: Take 2, The Lifestyle Fragrance Review

Armani Acqua di Gioia

Jennifer Aniston Eau de Parfum: Take 2, The Lifestyle Fragrance Review

Jennifer Aniston Eau de Parfum

Marc Jacobs Lola

Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense

Jessica Simpson Fancy Nights

Pacifica Malibu Lemon Blossom

Lush - Gorilla Perfumes Tuca Tuca

Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre

Serge Lutens Tubéreuse Criminelle

Lubin Vétiver Bluff

Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles

FlowerbyKenzo La Cologne

Gucci Guilty

By Kilian Rose Oud

Paco Rabanne Lady Million

Serge Lutens L'Eau

Dior Escale aux Marquises

Serge Lutens Bas de Soie

Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme

Chloé Capucine

Beyoncé Heat

Chanel Eau de Cologne (English Version)

Chanel Eau de Cologne (Version française)

Diptyque Vétyvério

Guerlain Vétiver pour Elle

Marc Jacobs Splash Collection 2010: Apple, Biscotti, Pomegranate

Caron Tubéreuse

Avon Outspoken by Fergie

PureDKNY

Jo Malone Iris and White Musk Cologne Intense

Jo Malone Cologne Intense Rose Water and Vanilla

Chanel Chance Eau Tendre

The Popularity of Clover Aroma and L.T. Piver Trèfle Incarnat in Literature and Perfume since the 19th Century - Part 1 

Balenciaga Paris Eau de Parfum

Scented Quote of the Day Archive

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June 20, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from James Joyce:

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"Wait. Hm. Hm. Yes. That's her perfume. Why she waved her hand. I leave you this to think of me when I'm far away on the pillow. What is it? Heliotrope? No. Hyacinth? Hm. Roses, I think...

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June 19, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, From Marcel Proust:

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The prose of Marcel Proust is unconventionally long and sinuous with a syntax seemingly almost always on the verge of going tumbling down over the edge of a cliff. You wait for it to fall but instead it goes on. I loved translating this olfactory passage from Sur Baudelaire, Flaubert et Morand, a book of criticism which sounds little different from the literary style of A la recherche du temps perdu (In Search of Lost Time / Remembrance of Things Past.) I preferred not to reproduce literally his very unconventional, interrupted, full-of-detours and pause-rich syntax upon which classical grammarians would frown. It is also too much the polar opposite of Plain English - American English is even more used to shorter sentence structures than British English - as it would become almost incomprehensible to most....

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June 18, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Paul Morand: How Coco Chanel Smelled


chanel-fall-09.jpgI loved the following quote from French writer Paul Morand about Gabrielle Chanel of which he suddenly feels inspired to draw an imaginary olfactive portrait like an electric shortcut taken through time and memory. When I read the passage, it makes me think that this short moment smells of Cuir de Russie, No.5, but also Dzing by L'Artisan Parfumeur. I am looking for the fougère note which might capture her forest-smelling side and I think of Alpona by Caron which has always made me think of a green forest in the middle ages.

Still, it is again a piece added to this myth of Chanel as the peasant-genius...

(Chanel Fall 09 on the right)

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June 17, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Thierry Mugler:

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In 1992, Thierry Mugler expressed himself around the launch of Angel, affirming the artistry of his approach to fragrance which he contrasted with the American one which he saw as marketing-driven...

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June 14, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Dmx:


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What smells good does not necessarily taste good when it comes to perfume. Rapper Dmx recalls his abusive mother and how as a kid he was driven to drink her perfume out of sheer hunger...

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May 8, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Zelda Sayre Fitzgerald:


zelda-fitzgerald.jpg"Yellow roses she bought with her money like Empire satin brocade, and white lilacs and pink tulips like moulded confectioner's frosting and deep-red roses like a Villon poem, black and velvety as an insect wing, cold blue hydrangeas clean as a newly calcimined wall, the crystal-line drops of lily of the valley...


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April 25, 2010

Jean-Claude Ellena's Latest Reflections on Perfumery {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Quote of the Day}


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H-Letter-TSS-B.jpgHermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena responds to French news title Le Figaro Magazine on the occasion of the launch of Voyage, his latest opus. I excerpted a quote from the article about his personal definition of the finite work of art in perfumery and translated it.

I am not entirely positive about this, but his reflection in this case seems to be influenced by the concept which was developed by Italian semiotician Umberto Eco in Opera Aperta, 1962 (The Open Work.) He also invokes the influence of nouvelle cuisine and one can wonder then how his perfumery could be influenced by the new generation of cuisine, molecular cuisine. He confesses to not being a big fan of travels, rather preferring encounters with people, a painting, a book.

Finally, I added a short list of official fragrance "materials" as they put it, to my review of Voyage as I serendipitously received some information about them. I think the distinction here between "notes" and "materials" would be that a "note" is this idea of controlled final effect while a "material" can be added for an unexpected effect going beyond what the material is supposed to express originally. In other words, a material can be sculptured, molded, while a note is a description and a finite interpretation of a material. A note is coded, a material is open to interpretation...

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April 9, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Diana Vreeland: The Lady who Loved Red and Strong Perfumes


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I-Letter-TSS.jpgIn the midst of the 1980s there were apparently and perhaps not surprisingly reactions to the larger trend of wearing Big Fragrances which were vocal enough to reach the ears of fashion editor Diana Vreeland. If Giorgio, Diva, Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso, Ysatis, Kouros, Drakkar Noir etc. epitomized the era she knew then (Poison was yet to launch) to the point of saturation, sometimes giving rise to public opprobrium in restaurants, Diana Vreeland remained convinced based not only on her experience of the decade but of her whole life experience as she said so herself that perfumes with substantive sillages were the only way to go...

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March 8, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Constantine P. Cavafy:

ulysses_claude_lorrain.jpgUlysse remet Chryséis à son père, Claude Lorrain


Ithaka

As you set out for Ithaka
hope the voyage is a long one,
full of adventure, full of discovery.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
angry Poseidon--don't be afraid of them:
you'll never find things like that on your way
as long as you keep your thoughts raised high,
as long as a rare excitement
stirs your spirit and your body.
Laistrygonians and Cyclops,
wild Poseidon--you won't encounter them
unless you bring them along inside your soul,
unless your soul sets them up in front of you....


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February 14, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Eugene Rimmel:

frederick-leighton_a-noble-lady-of-venice.jpgA Noble Lady of Venice by Lord Frederick Leighton, ca. 1865, Leighton House Museum and Gallery


"...I shall venture to offer to ladies a few words of advice on the choice of their perfumes and cosmetics. I feel that this is delicate ground, but I shall endeavour to let my remarks be of a purely general character. 

The selection of a perfume is entirely a matter of taste, and I should no more presume to dictate to a lady which scent she should choose, than I would to an epicure what wine he is to drink ; ...

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February 2, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from John Keats:

Illustration of poem by John Keats by W. J.

Image via Wikipedia



Here is an excerpt from Ode to the Nightingale by John Keats which was written in the month of May 1819. In it, as the poet imagines his vision dimming with the passing of daylight, his sense of smell becomes all the more perceptive of the invisible presence of fruit and flora. The feeble light which comes to him is gloomy-green and smells of soft breezy mosses.

"tender is the night,
    And haply the Queen-Moon is on her throne,
        Cluster'd around by all her starry Fays;
But here there is no light,
    Save what from heaven is with the breezes blown
        Through verdurous glooms and winding mossy ways
."...
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January 14, 2010

Scented Quote of the Day, from Lauren Conrad:


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November 11, 2009

Scented Quote of the Day, from Jacques-Henri Lartigue:


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"Je suis triste de ne pouvoir photographier les odeurs. J'aurais voulu, hier, photographier celles de l'armoire à épicerie de grand-mère."

"I feel sad not to be able to photography aromas. I would have liked, yesterday, to photography those from grand-mother's spice cabinet."

November 4, 2009

Scented Quote of the Day, from Celine Lheritier: Why Functional Perfumery is Cool


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Ten years after having graduated from the school of perfumery ISIPCA, young perfumer Céline Lhéritier now at Colgate remembers how she fell in love with her chosen specialty:

"A l'époque la parfumerie fonctionnelle était peu mise en avant, pourtant elle m'attirait davantage que la parfumerie fine. Il y a plus de défis à relever, techniques, réglementaires, budgétaires. Et puis on participe au réveil de quelqu'un dans sa salle de bains, alors que la parfumerie fine est plus élitiste. [...] Au Mexique par exemple, les détergents pour les sols sont très parfumés, car ils servent aussi de désodorisants d'intérieur."

Check out my translation after the jump...

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October 28, 2009

Scented Quote of the Day, from a 13th Century French Poem:



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Le livre des propriétés des choses de Barthélémy l'Anglais, XVème siècle


The orchard was as beautiful as one could wish for:

In it all sorts of plants were growing

that I would be most incapable of naming to you;

but I can tell you without lying

that there were roses and other flowers

that exhaled mellifluous scents,

and spices of such virtues that

a bedridden person

crippled by sickness

would have left in full health, without any more infirmities

provided that person had slept in the orchard

one whole night...

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Scented Quote of the Day Archive

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