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Monthly Archives from March 2006

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Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

Latest Fragrance Review

American Beauty Beloved Red Rose

Fragrance Essays

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

 

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

Elie Saab Le Parfum

Keith Urban Phoenix

Annick Goutal Mon Parfum Chéri

From the Archives

Paco Rabanne pour Homme

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions of the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

Latest Posts from Beauty And The Salamander

August 2006 Archive

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August 11, 2006

The 5th Sense in the News: Perfumes (and Any Liquid for that Matter) Banned From Airplanes

Check the video on the front page of the New York Times showing tightening of security measures at airports. Airport security is witch hunting any type of liquid that a passenger might carry, including water. An unlucky person saw his expensive perfume end up in a trash bag. The Moodie Report also says that airport retail is in crisis and that business people are attempting to organize deliveries at the gate to overcome the crisis.

New York Times 

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

Shopping Tip: Serge Lutens Chypre Rouge Now at Aedes

Aedes has received the latest Serge Lutens, Chypre Rouge, and is ready to take your orders. I can vouch for their service which is excellent and extremely swift. You also get 7 free samples with each order.


 


Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (0)

                    

Perfume Review & Musings: Insolence by Guerlain

insolence_bottle2.jpg  

I will first review the advertisement for Insolence and then the perfume. My illustrations are in reverse order though; hope you're not confused already.

So I thought it wouldn't be a bad idea to review the new Insolence by Guerlain as it would help me clarify my own impressions of it. A little trip to Sephora last weekend allowed me to get hold of a generous sample of Insolence as I felt that the couple of spritzes that were drying off my hand wouldn't be enough to get to the bottom of it. After all it's a perfume by Maurice Roucel, the author of Musc Ravageur, 24 Faubourg, Iris Silver Mist, and Be Delicious, to name a few; there might be hidden complexity there. It is a also a newly heralded Guerlain generation of perfumes as the very bourgeois and posh perfume house is attempting to break its classic image and reach out to a younger set of women. With this battle plan in mind, Guerlain has decided to appeal by putting out a rebellious, insolent perfume and hiring Hilary Swank/Million Dollar Babe as its icon.

Swank is perfect to embody insolence, the value, but the strange images used in the advertisement campaign seem to want to deflect the potential threat posed by the representation of an insolent young woman: the actress looks stultified, frozen, immobile; in brief, her insolence is safely put away in a place that looks like it might be a locked Swiss bank safe with the key completely lost in the netherland of aborted rebellious dreams...

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Insolence by Guerlain" »

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (16)

                    

August 12, 2006

Fragrance News: Upcoming Interview with Nez à Nez

Christa Patout and Stéphane Humbert Lucas from Nez à Nez although currently on vacation have graciously accepted to do an interview with TSS. I will publish it both in French and English as soon as I have completed my translation of the French interview. Please check back in the next coming days.

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

August 13, 2006

Fragrance News: Fleur de Narcisse 2006 by L'Artisan Parfumeur (Updated)

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L'Artisan Parfumeur will be introducing this fall the second perfume belonging to its collection of luxurious vintage (millésime) fragrances. This time it is an homage paid to narcissus. The scent is called Fleur de Narcisse.  Just like a "grand cru" or exceptional wine, these rare vintage perfumes are based on a single harvest of flowers of exceptional quality, in this case narcissus poeticus from Languedoc-Roussillon...


Continue reading "Fragrance News: Fleur de Narcisse 2006 by L'Artisan Parfumeur (Updated)" »

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (23)

                    

August 14, 2006

Passion for Perfume: An Interview with Christa Patout and Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez

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The owners and designers of Nez à Nez, Christa Patout and her husband Stéphane Humbert Lucas have opened for a us a little door into their rich universe. Creativity, sensuality, and love seem to be their guiding principles. Let me have the pleasure of introducing them to you.

TSS - Can you tell us how Nez à Nez started and what are the origins of this very recently established house? I am told that a number of perfumes were created by your father, Jean Patout.

Christa Patout with Stéphane Humbert Lucas - The adventure of Nez à Nez started a little more than five years ago. It is first and foremost the story of an encounter...

Continue reading "Passion for Perfume: An Interview with Christa Patout and Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez" »

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (3)

                    

August 15, 2006

Fragrance News: Part II of Nez à Nez Overview & Giveaway

I will post my part II of the overview of Nez à Nez fragrances soon and will offer 2 samples to the lucky winner of a draw. One will be Ambre à Sade and the other one you can choose (except maybe for Atelier D'Artiste.....OK, if you insist I'll spare a few drops:)). Don't forget to check my own overview part I here.

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (13)

                    

Fragrance News: Opium Collector Edition & Opium Collector Powder for Eyes & Complexion

Opium Collector.jpg Yves Saint Laurent is releasing a limited Collector Edition of Opium bottled in a gorgeous black Oriental lacquer type flacon and adorned with a lotus cloisonné motif said to be a symbol of "purity and splendour". It is accompanied this time by an Opium Collector Powder for Eyes & Complexion. The shades are, "...imperial purple, pearly white, jade green and golden beige. These have been assembled to form the petals and leaves of a lotus flower. They can be used alone or together, on the eyes or face." It is the first time that YSL issues a compact powder together with a perfume.


The perfume will retail for €52.70 and the compact for €43.20. This limited collector edition will be available in travel retail from September 1 2006.

Source: The Moodie Report 


Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (6)

                    

Fragrance News: Collector Paris by Yves Saint Laurent (Updated)

Paris Collector.jpg YSL is also releasing a limited Fireworks Collector Edition of Paris all dressed up in luxurious black and gold. It will retail for 49.60 Euros and will be available in travel retail from September 1 2006. This flacon will grace any vanity table, I think. This jus is, by the way, one of the best rose scents on the market. It smells like spring and summer in Paris even if you wear it in the autumn and winter.

Update: It is now available at Nordstrom for $67.50. 

 

Source: The Moodie Report 

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

August 16, 2006

Scented Quote of the Day, from Pierre Bourdon:

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"The choice of a perfume has as much to do with the regional culture as with one's preferences. It is even much more controlled by existing social codes than by desires believed to be one's own."

 

Note: Pierre Bourdon is the nose behind Davidoff Cool Water, Dior Dolce Vita, and Malle Iris Poudre, among others.

Photo is from Editions de Parfums 

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (6)

                    

New Perfume: Magical Moon by Hanae Mori (Updated)

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Hanae Mori has announced that it will launch its first fragrance in eight years, Magical Moon, in August-September 2006. Their last perfume, Haute Couture, was introduced in 1998.

Notes are described as including, "buds and blooms harvested according to an ancient lunar calendar": Osmanthus Flower, Rose, Sugar Cane, Cotton Flower, Coconut Milk, Vanilla, White Musk, White Sandalwood, Red Cedar, Incense, Litchi, Patchouli, Pineapple Pulp, Guava Nectar, Star Fruit, Orange Flowers and Pink Berries.

According to Basenotes, it will be available exclusively at Nordstrom in September and will be distributed more widely in November. According to Women's Wear Daily, it will retail for $95 for a flacon of 1.7 oz and would have been launched August 1 in specialty stores.

Update: It is now available at Norsdtrom for $95 and $65. 

Sources: Women's Wear Daily and Basenotes where you can read more about the new fragrance including an anecdote about who was the first woman to receive the fragrance as a much publicized gift.

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

August 17, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Ginger Fragrance by Lush

GingerFragrance.jpg
 
I have just rediscovered Ginger Fragrance by Lush.The first time I tried it, the experience was disappointing as the opening made me exclaim "Wow!", but then later on I became gradually turned off by what smelled to me like a cheap, synthetic drydown that seemed to never want to let go of you.What happened? I have no idea, or rather I have some ideas that are purely speculative. One of them is the following: did they reformulate it? The perfume, by the way, was composed by Simon Constantine.

This time the perfume is amicable all along. It opens with a complex aromatic bouquet that says "I am not a middle-of-the-road boring perfume'. The Jamaican ginger is nicely outlined, quite tonic and sweetened by the mimosa, jasmine, rose, and geranium. The drydown finally evokes the softeness and sweeteness of honey. There are woodsy undertones to the honey and a light tea-like aroma. It is a very nice, aromatic scent. Staying power is a tad disatisfying. It feels natural. I see it as a kind of affluent middle-class hippie scent...


Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Ginger Fragrance by Lush" »

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

Lush Big Shampoo: Review {Beauty Notes} {Hair}

Big_Shampoo.jpg

I have to rave about this shampoo. First of all it smells good; it is composed with fragrant ingredients such as seaweed infusion, fresh lemon infusion, fresh lime juice, neroli oil, mandarin oil, vanilla absolute, and even orris absolute. The mix, out of the pot, smells a little like a subtle suntan oil lotion making you think of the holidays and the sea. There is actually Scottish sea water in the recipe. The shampoo has a granulous sea salt base, none of which remains in your hair. It lathers richly so you don't need to put a big quantity of it each time. On wet hair, the shampoo smells a little of light patchouli.

The results are excellent: your hair feels squeaky clean at the end of the shampooing session and when they dry they offer a new volume and a lustrous sheen from top to bottom. I see it as a shampoo + beauty mask for the hair. It makes them look really healthy.

It retails for $17.95 on the Lush site 

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (4)

                    

The 5th Sense in the News: The SmHell of New York in the Summer, New Website for Bond no 9

There is an article in the Washington Post on Laurice Rahme of Bond no 9 on a mission to find the stinkiest place in New York city together with a team of experts (via Blogdorf Goodman.)

Eau Dear: Sniffing Out the Big Apple's Smelliest Spots 

More news regarding Bond no 9: the perfume house has now a new website and can sell its fragrances directly online (via Blog for Beauty & Coutorture).

 

bondno9.jpg

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (2)

                    

August 19, 2006

The 5th Sense in the News: Article on Terre d'Hermès

The Globe and Mail of 8-19-2006 published an article on Terre d'Hermès. For more information on the perfume's notes you can go to this previous post. Terre d'Hermes is a great perfume, elegant and unisex. I think it is perfect to wear at the office and I would add that it is very versatile.

Posted by Marie-Helene Wagner | | Comments (0)

                    

August 2006 Archive

Page 2 of 5  •  1 2 3 4 5

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Tammy on Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List} : Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ...

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Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...

evageli karounzou on Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News} : at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...

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Maddy on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...

patuxxa on Happ & Stahns 1922 Lily Sanguine (2011) {New Fragrance} : For some reason, "ScentTrek" makes me think of Mr. Spock :)

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