About:A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.
I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.
I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity.
Guerlain will launch their 2014 summer edition of Terracotta which this time will include a relaunch of their 1999 perfume Terracotta Voile d'Eté as Terracotta Le Parfum to fête the 30th anniversary of the hydrating bronzing powder Terracotta (1984). Remember that era when earthy pigments arrived on the scene?...
Iris Apfel is your dream of an eccentric, flamboyant grand-mother come true. From the top of her 90 years of existence, she dispenses style-cum-wisdom lessons without even trying at this point because what she shows is the result of decades of practice and instinct-in-action.
After an exhibition at the MET honored her and a book about it came out in 2005, Rare Bird of Fashion: The Irreverent Iris Apfel by Eric Boman with an introduction by Harold Koda and a contribution by Iris Apfel, her style and eye-glasses have been en route to acquiring iconic status...
Makeup guru François Nars' travels to Japan and his fascination for the beauty rituals of the country resulted in the creation of a special makeup collection for Holiday 2011 called Modern Kabuki, which isdedicated to the"ardent makeup aficionado." The lineup wishes to be "a vibrant, modern, iconic interpretation of the centuries-old dramatic form," Kabuki theater, which was created at the very beginning of the 17th century.
The colors are dramatic, as they should be, with saturated crimson reds contrasted with "icy white" tints. The packaging also borrows directly from the Japanese culture of gift-giving and is the most refined ever for the brand....
Glee leading lady Lea Michele attended the movie premiere of American Horror Story yesterday at the Arclight Cineramadome on October 3, 2011 in Hollywood, California. She was in attendance to support director Ryan Murphy of Glee who directed the new horror series about a haunted house in L.A. in which a therapist and his wife relocate.
The beauty concept: celebrity makeup artist Kayleen McAdams decided to focus on Michele's glowing skin while bringing a dark marine blue twist to the smoky eye to match her lacey dress. Check out after the jump for all the details about the protocole and the products used...
Estée Lauder like every year have released several items to profit the Pink Ribbon campaign this month which is now traditionally dedicated to breast cancer in the beauty world. 2011 sees a new twist as two of these items sees the pink fade into blue in a highly symbolic manner,
"We know that breast cancer doesn't just affect women. That's why this year, a blue stone has been added to our ribbon compact to represent the 1% of men who are affected."
From Violent Lips comes a forward initiative. The makeup brand have released a limited-edition of their trademark lip tattoos in honor of Breast Cancer Awareness Month called The Pink Ribbon Collection. As its name indicates, the set of 3 temporary lip tattoos invites you to wear the cause on your lips thus vaguely recalling the expression "to put your money where your mouth is." Also, if you were eyeing that Vuitton bag, you can always go for the unofficial pinkified Vuitton lip-look instead...
Ladies, you are going to see quite a bit of pink in the coming weeks. Stila have released a limited-edition makeup palette ahead of Breast Cancer Awareness Month called the Positive and Pretty Palette. The bandage dress on the cover is a nice touch as it ties in well with the beauty-cum-public-health theme while looking fashion current...
Daniel Sandler have issued a limited edition liquid blush to help raise funds for the Macmillan Cancer Support. The Watercolour Blusher in POP is an exclusive subtle sheer, jelly-bean pink tint with lavender overtones which was inspired by the courage of cancer sufferers.
You know how uplifing it can be to see someone with beautiful rosy cheeks? A little help from the makeup department is like popping vitamins sometimes. Check out after the jump for the full details...
Check out the latest beauty articles by The Daily Makeover fashion police after the jump. Be careful, it bites sometimes. Here are excerpts.
Man-Bobs: So Hot Right Now
By Lauren Le Vine
For someone so attractive and seemingly sure of himself, Tom Brady has certainly been experiencing some hirsute confusion for the past two years. First, the Patriots quarterback looked like a child molester from the '70s. Now, he thinks he's a Southern gangster of sorts. Maybe wife Gisele Bundchen can set him straight?...
Lancôme will launch their new Fall 2011 makeup collection called 29 Saint-Honoré from July 2011. It is signed by artistic director Aaron de Mey.
Tapping into the myth of gay Paris, 29 Saint-Honoré pays homage to the address of the headquarters of Lancôme in the City of Lights which opened there in 1935. The advertising is fronted by Elettra Wiedermann and Daria Werbowy dressed in négligés and ostrich feathers as if they weregetting ready to step into the limelight of a Parisian cabaret such as Le Moulin Rouge. The image is like a metaphor inviting women to put on their showtime faces...
With her gorgeous looks and sweet-as-pie personality, Taylor Swift was practically tailor made to be a CoverGirl. This January, the soon-to-be 21-year-old star joins the likes of Drew Barrymore, Ellen and Rihanna as CoverGirl's newest spokesperson with her upcoming campaign for the brand's new NatureLuxe line. "I used to always make it a point to see who the next CoverGirl was," says Taylor. "Some of the choices they've made are people that I really love and respect for all these different reasons--they are all kinds of beautiful. I think it's really cool to be part of a family that thinks that individuality is beautiful."...
The Daily Makeover polled men on the street to ask them whether they preferred the natural vs. glam look on iconic beauties. The result is heavily slanted towards you ladies wearing as little makeup as possible. I guess we might be wearing elaborate makeup sometimes mostly to please photographers, fashion people, ourselves and possibly strut past other women. The latter thought comes to mind when I remember that it has been found that the fragrance quest is mostly deemed important by women while men tend to be content to smell that one perfume you were wearing when you met or settle for a cologne, which anyway they tend to put away after the dating stage is over.
On the other hand, wearing red lipstick must be popular not just for aesthetic reasons but because its is ingrained in our animal courtship behavior.
What do you think? Are there men out there who prefer or appreciate dramatic makeup on women?
"When you think of sexy makeup,
you most likely think of a dark, smoky eye and bold red lips. It turns
out that most men think the exact opposite -- 70% of guys actually find
the natural, fresh-faced makeup look sexier than the glammed-up femme
fatale. Surprised? We definitely were!
We took to the streets and polled 50 real men to find out what guys
really think of your makeup. Each man was presented with two shots of
celebrities -- Ashley Greene, Charlize Theron, Megan Fox, Jennifer Lopez, and Zoe Saldana
-- wearing very natural makeup and a more dramatic look. The guys were
then asked which look they preferred and why. Here's the breakdown:...suspense, suspense...
Beauty makeup tutorial videos are some of the most hypnotic reels you can watch. Here The Sublime Agent details all the tricks in the trade for making up your masculine face. He is against mascara and eyeliner for men, which he deems not "appropriate"for guys - a fresh idea when you are in fact rather used to seeing men sporting khol (especially in India) - but big on foundation, blush, and powder. Ladies, you can also pick up on some beauty tips for yourselves. The video is entitled "Men's Makeup - An Everyday Look"...
Bobbi Brown launched a new limited-edition color palette for the face called Denim & Rose which comes with, if you so wish to purchase it as well, a companion complementary Mini Brush Set meant to be carried in your bag or, as they suggest, kept in your office drawer.
The concept for the makeup look is that of the "beauty equivalent of dressed-up denim," which also means that it's meant to flow easily from day to night wear.
The palette caught my eye because I thought the colors look original and distinctive without being theatrical and dramatic (there is a time for everything.) It also is a plus that Bobbi Brown, the specialist of endless variations on natural-looking nude and taupe colors, show they can be subtly edgy...
Lush just released a new duo of cool solid body tints for the legs called Silk Stockings (lighter shade) and Black Stockings (darker shade). As one user suggested on the brand's website, you can go crazy and decide to mix the colors, or better stilll paint your legs with darker vs. lighter highlights. Apparently they hold well, do not stain and smell good. Did you know incidentally that an ace perfumer like Sophia Grojsman (White Linen, Beautiful, Paris, Eternity, Trésor etc.) recommends perfuming your legs for an interesting effect of upward diffusion motion? So, this kind of beauty gesture is recommended both from a color angle and a scent one...
Lancôme have just released their new color collection for fall 2010 signed by makeup director Aaron de Mey. It's called French Coquettes and the two spokespersons on the advertising shot by Mario Testino are Daria Werbowy and Elettra Wiedemann who are making a joint appearance for the first time after having been the faces of Lancôme fragrances such as Hypnôse for women, Hypnôse Senses, O d'Azur and Trésor in Love.
French Coquettes, captures the spirit of the modern woman at the start
of the 20th Dreamed up by artistic directorAaron De Mey,
the collection harks to signature hallmarks of French glamour. From the
opulence of the Belle Époque to the bohemian decadence of Montmartre, the
collection's palette of deep plums, shimmering charcoals
and sophisticated nudes are sure to inspire."....
Need some ideas to perfect your beauty routine on the beach? First take a look at 8 great shopping suggestions from the Daily Makeover experts -- don't miss the nifty beauty bag with an incorporated ice pack! Then read "5 Sneaky Ways to Look Better on the Beach." Finally, want to catch up on celebrity beauty makeovers and get some inspiration to change your look this summer? You can read about "Adrienne Bailon's Bold Hair Makeover."
Keep reading after the jump to view the slideshow and read the articles....
Tattoo artist and TV reality celebrity Kat Von D has released her third fragrance following up on Saint and Sinner last year. It's called Adora and is accompanied by a limited-edition makeup collection comprising True Romance Eyeshadow Palette - Adora and Adora Painted Love Lipstick.
The colors look a bit dangerous, especially in the eyeshadow pan, and feel like they would be great for Halloween (I know it's a bit early to think about that but that's what came to my mind gazing at the vampy, if not vampirish tints.
About the perfume:
"Adora means "Beloved One" in Latin. For Kat, Adora reflects the
next chapter in her personal evolution--an introspective renaissance
discovered through deep layers, stories, and scars. She's a romantic
soul with an edgy exterior. Adora is a sensual and passionate perfume
journey--unexpected and provocative.This scent reveals a stirring glimpse into an enigmatic life...tortured, beautiful, and brutally honest. "....
Other hot beauty tips this week from the ladies over at The Daily Makeover.
Boardroom Vs. Bedroom Makeup
by Megan McIntyre
Raychel Wade is a professional makeup artist and official La Prairie
Colour Ambassador. She was voted 'Best Makeup Consultant' in New York Magazine's "Best of New York" and her practical makeup tips have been featured on the pages of Allure, InStyle, Cosmopolitan, Real Simple, Lucky, Self, Fitness, Brides and New York Magazine's annual Family and Wedding guides.
I think it is important to look and feel your best at all times, and
as a professional makeup artist, I swear by the power of a pretty lip
and eye-opening lashes--for the boardroom AND the bedroom. It's just a
matter of intensity, color choice and application for looking
office-appropriate vs. out on the town. Remember that expression "dress
for the job you want, not the job you have?" That applies to your
fashion AND makeup looks.
The key to beautiful work makeup is making the most out of a few key products. Start by getting your skin even with a touch of La Prairie's Anti-Aging Concealer SPF 20--dot
wherever the skin appears uneven or has an imperfection, then blend in.
Follow with a tinted moisturizer like Elizabeth Arden's Sheer Lights
Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer. Once your skin is even and glowing,
apply a dusting of a matte bronzer (MAC and Bobbi Brown are two of my favorites) to your cheeks and temples, and then finish your cheeks with an easy cream blush like Nars
in Penny Lane. All of these products are shimmer-free which is
important in the office, as they keep you looking fresh--under often
unflattering office lighting--without drawing unnecessary attention to
Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer Haute Couture collection for 2010 was truly haute-couture in the sense that it made you dream. It was extravagant, it affirmed the reign of fantasy and imagination over practical mundane limitations. It refused to be no-nonsense. The fantasy Hollywood adventure-movie strain was perceptible with inspiration seemingly taken from movies like Pirates of the Caribbean, Indiana Jones and Avatar. I thought there was also inspiration culled from outfits made out of chocolate for the Salon du Chocolat. So I am starting with the details instead of looking at the ensemble, i.e. the outfits but you are benefiting from my personal fascination for the colors that were used on the models' eyelids and the nail-rings that capped the real nails.
Here is a selection of looks of eye makeup and colors from the backstage area. Makeup artist was Tom Pecheux using Mac cosmetics..
We got the insider's scoop from Lancôme's team about actress Kherington Payne's makeup routine for the red-carpet premiere of the remake of one of the 80s defining film, Fame, in Los Angeles on September 23, 2009. Signed by makeup artist Vanessa Scali, The effect is described as "...the rising star's graphic, smokey eye, pretty golden skin and shimmery nude mouth."
There was a definite cat-eye impression with as much emphasis on line than on hair (lashes) to achieve the style. Payne attended the event in the evening but managed to present a sun-kissed glow under the flashlights. No details on the hairdo (and hair jewelry), which looked like a cross between a lacquered bouffant from the sixties and an antique Greek up-do, all with 21st century glam hair extensions. The Greek reference was echoed by her tunic-like dress.
"To start, Vanessa prepped the skin with Lancôme's Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate, which kept Kherington's skin fresh in the 100 degree heat. Lancôme's Effacernes in Light Bisque -Vanessa's favorite formula--was dabbed underneath the eyes. Bobbi Brown's Foundation Stick was applied on select areas with a small brush and blended with the fingers. Lancôme's Blush Subtil in Sheer Amourose delivered a glowy look and was accented with Giorgio Armani Beauty's Fluid Sheer #2 on the cheek and brow bones. A dusting of Lancôme's Photôgenic Sheer Loose Powder, just on the T-zone."...
The black-soot look is great on model Malgosia Bela, but it is really hard to pull off outside of the spotlights (and Halloween revelry). To me, there is always a big distinction to be made between makeup that looks good in front of a camera in a studio with all the sources of light and angles that one can control, and a versatile street makeup that has to work effortlessly. Bela has big, clear, even transparent blue/green eyes and a pale complexion so it counterbalances the black pigments. The lip color here looks good because it is layered with some red plum in it. I was surprised to see how the lipsticks in Les Noirs Obscurs were going for some uncompromisingly dull-ish shades (Maniac, Hysteria, Obscure). It takes a whole different kind of attitude to wear those...
For the makeup Chris asked Daniel [Martin] to create a sun-kissed, fresh look. He wanted a healthy skin and prominent lip.
Daniel gave the models a natural glow by applying Généfique Activating Skin Concentrate to clean skin followed by Généfique Eye to open up and brighten the eye area. The complexion was perfectly even and polished. Shu Uemura Nobara Foundation was applied to even out the skin tone and Lancôme Ageless Mineral Transluscent powder was dusted over the entire face. Pop 'n Cheeks in Coral Flirt was used as a highlighter and lightly applied to the cheekbones near the temple for just a hint of color. To define the eyes, Daniel smudged Le Crayon Khôl in black coffee on the upper and lower lash lines. Several coats of Hypnôse Mascara in black were applied for thick, black lashes...
Fred Farrugia is the ex-international artistic director for makeup for Lancôme and the inventor, amongst others, of the Juicy tubes. He just launched his own line of makeup at Sephora France, developing a nomadic concept of 104 stackable palettes of colors that can be easily carried in your bag and more originally, used without a mirror thanks to the (amazing) textures. One of the ideas behind the line is that this is a collection you can use even if you know more about
finger-painting from your days in day-care and kindergarten than about
The textures may be called easy now but it took Farrugia five years to create the products in his apartment. (By the way, he is the brother of comic French TV personality Dominique Farrugia.) His collaborator on the project is designer Ora-Ito who conceived the stackables which are simple, functional elongated palettes that just need to be clipped on, unclipped, stacked at will. Ora-Ito is also the thinking head behind the new beautiful flacon for the latest perfume by Guerlain, Idylle (it looks better in reality than on a picture)....
Africa is hot this summer as Yves Saint Laurent launches a new limited-edition collection of makeup colors inspired by the dark and colorful continent.
Here are our picks for noteworthy products from the 2008 YSL Summer Look: Soleil d'Afrique, Palette Couleurs d'Afrique, Voile de Soleil, and the Everlong Mascara Waterproof. Read more about them on Beauty And The Salamander and go for the glow!...
The universe of the collection is that of Fafi, a French artist and cartoonist who draws her initial inspiration from intersecting cultural traditions where characters present a mix of traits usually found separately as characteristic of babies, little kids or gamins in the French tradition, and sexually mature adults. She herself simply likes to stress that she draws her inspiration from her friends and girls she observes on the street. It was her dream to have her drawings on makeup packaging and they look great on the Mac line. One would have just wished that there were more of them on the lipstick cases for example instead of the same character being repeated over and over.
Soonie's Rose by Margaret Keane
One can identify in her universe a trend deriving from the prevalent Kawaisa (cuteness) culture in Japan with its references to the Anime and Manga aesthetics but also closer to home for Fafi, the Poulbot sub-culture in France. Finally coming full circle one discovers the influence of the Big-Eye Movement born in the USA, an expression made popular by Wayne Hemingway in his book Just Above The Mantelpiece: Mass-Market Masterpieces. In it he attributes the birth of this inspiration to Margaret (and Walter as a pseudo) Keane in North Beach San Francisco California at the end of the 1950s. However, it must be stressed that Poulbot already drew gamins with oversized eyes. Keane's "large-eyed waif" paintings were beloved by actress Joan Crawford who collected them and had one made of her for decorating her home. Big eyes are typical of this cultural sensitivity, so much so that in Japan young women try to imitate the enormous eyes of Animes by wearing lenses that dilate the pupils and make the eyes seem more like tea saucers, an ideal of beauty that can be more easily achieved with a white pencil liner (see Fafi: Fascinating: Snake-eyes Matte White Eye Khol cf. press release)....