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Passion for Perfume - Portraits Archive
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 Chers lecteurs francophones, Je vous propose ici une version française de l'interview de la directrice artistique de Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri, Keiko Mecheri, effectuée précédemment en anglais. J'ai pensé que la marque étant peu connue des amoureux des parfums non anglophones, cela valait la peine de mieux la faire connaître à un public élargi. C'est une première pour moi que de faire l'effort de traduire des pensées exprimées dans la langue de Shakespeare (pour utiliser un cliché éculé, mais il ne me vient pas d'autres images en cet instant), dans la langue de Molière (autre cliché, mais il fait chaud) bien que par le passé il m'ait été donné de traduire des interviews en version originale française, en anglais. J'espère que cette petite activité de diffusion culturelle vous plaira. S'il y a bien une chose qui puisse me pousser à faire de la traduction, c'est la pensée de mieux faire communiquer les cultures. Bien cordialement, Marie-Hélène PS: cette petite interview comporte un addendum, rajouté également à la version originale, concernant le choix des noms de parfums.
Interview de Keiko Mecheri
TSS: A quelle date fut fondée la marque de parfums Keiko Mecheri? Quelle était votre votre vision de la marque à ses origines?
Keiko Mecheri: La marque fut créée en 1997 à Beverly Hills en Californie. Ma vision pour celle-ci à l'époque était de créer une maison authentique, indépendante, se trouvant à des milliers de kilomètres de la vieille Europe et se situant aux marges de "l'establishment" du parfum. Je voulais créer des parfums qui soient scrupuleusement qualitatifs, capables de provoquer un sentiment d'enchantement. Mon intention était également d'initier une nouvelle approche et d'élever le niveau de la parfumerie aux Etats-Unis (ceci dit bien entendu, sans aucune fausse modestie)...
Continue reading "Interview de Keiko Mecheri en Version Française {Passion for Perfume - Portraits}" »
 As we announced previously, two historical perfumes - or ought we rather to say historicized perfumes - L'Aurora and Giove Nettuno Plutone were recently re-created by Italian perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro for the Prince and Princess Boncompagni Ludovisi based on ancient archives of the family but also on two love stories spanning the centuries and the magnificent art of Villa Aurora in Rome in particular its frescoes by Caravaggio and Guercino. We wanted to chronicle the history of these perfumes if at all possible with the help of the actors who were involved in the project. Although I was initially offered to direct my questions to Lorenzo Dante Ferro, I soon had to realize that both an obvious passion for the project and scrupules about having everyone's input turned the traditional format of the interview into a charming polyphonic interview with interventions from HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi, Perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro, Public Relations Godfrey Parkin, but also more in the background yet present, the new Princess Rita Boncompagni Ludovisi and Cindy Ferro. I want to thank Godfrey Parkin for his notes-taking and synthesizing of the information. I hope that our readers will thoroughly enjoy, as I did, the language of love of perfume . A Polyphonic Interview with Prince Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi, Perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro, Public Relations Godfrey ParkinTSS - Could you please tell us more about the original historical perfumes that were the inspirations for L'Aurora and Giove Nettuno Plutone as well as the centuries-old association of the Ferro family of perfumers with the Prince's family? Principe Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi I, then Prince of Piombino, in the 1630's, was married three times. Two of his wives died and the third wife was Princess Costanza Pamphili, niece of the then reigning Pope Innocent X. Principe Nicolò was deeply in love with Costanza who, it has been noted, was quite intrigued by fragrances. The then Principe di Piombino, also Patrician of Venice, Grandee of Spain, Prince of the Holy Roman Empire vowed to give his betrothed a unique gift which would please her. The prince conferred with a selection of artisans in Murano, where the Ferro family was prominent. This is the point at which the Prince is almost certain that the Ferro family and the Boncompagni Ludovisi family first encountered one another. This story has been handed down in his family for generations. Prince Nicolò I set about having a beautiful glass perfume decanter created, in Murano, to present to his future bride, Princess Costanza Pamphili. As Lorenzo Dante Ferro states, "You would not have perfume without the beautiful glass that protects the precious fragrances." (Principe Nicolò Boncompagni Ludovisi I in picture above)  I discussed with Lorenzo how he came to be involved with the Principe and Principessa Boncompagni Ludovisi. The Prince and Princess were attending a dinner party, in Rome, and Lorenzo and his wife, a Texan like the Princess, were talking about their love of fragrances. The Prince realized immediately that he would like to present his fiancée with a perfume to commemorate their engagement; just as Prince Nicolò I had presented a perfume to his Princess Costanza. The Prince also recognized the Ferro name. As Lorenzo and the Prince began to chat they realized that they had much more in common than they realized, a history of sorts.... (Perfumer Dante Lorenzo Ferro on the right)
Continue reading "A Polyphonic Interview with Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi, Perfumer Lorenzo Dante Ferro, Public Relations Godfrey Parkin {Passion for Perfume - Portraits}" »
It is my pleasure to bring to The Scented Salamander readers a unique first interview with Keiko Mecheri of Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri on the occasion of the relaunch of her line in a new, sculptural packaging. I have to say that my initial desire to communicate more directly with Keiko Mecheri was due to the fact that I could hardly find any background information about her perfumes on the internet! On the one hand there was this vast collection of perfumes (30) some of which I had personally enjoyed. There was an aura, a presence felt through these perfumes, yet details about their creators or the history of the line remained elusive to say the least. I could not even tell when the line had been established. So, in the era of rapid communication I was glad to be finally able to make contact with Keiko Mecheri. As we remain, however, in the era of everyday life, always, it took some time before we both were finally able to focus on the interview I thank her very much for taking the time to answer our questions. I discovered a personality who comes across as remarkably clear-headed and passionate about her endeavor - the standard title of the series fits her to a tee I think - and who talks like a fragrance artistic director. What I mean by that is that her references when she talks about perfume is sourced from different venues and not just from the world of perfumery proper. There is a sense of slight distanciation and looking at perfume with a broader outlook. Then there is this evocative, visionary language which hints at the way someone imagines fragrance and then works in collaboration with perfumers to make these "premonitions of perfumes", shall we say, come to fruition. If you have been surprised by the richness of her collection of fragrances, so have I. Well, the news is that the library is going to get even bigger this year. As previously announced, a new sampling program is now available so you could explore this library of perfumes more easily now. Please stay tuned also for some reviews of her scents in the future on TSS. Without further ado,
Interview with Keiko Mecheri
TSS: When were Les Parfums Keiko Mecheri founded and what was your vision for the brand at the time?Keiko Mecheri: It was created in 1997 in Beverly Hills, CA. My vision for the brand at the time was to create an authentic independent perfume house miles away from Old Europe, outside the perfume "establishment". To provide perfumes with detail-to-quality that prompt enchantment, to initiate a new approach and to elevate the level of perfumery in the US (without any false modesty of course). TSS: How would you define in your own words the Keiko Mecheri style of perfumery?KM: Artisanal, eclectic, lover of precious and rare ingredients, modern-classy...
Continue reading "Interview with Keiko Mecheri {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
 Serge Lutens is nothing if not passionate about his conception of perfumery. Hear him talk about his first encounter with the fascinating raw material of cedar in Morocco and how it became a key note in the modern classic Féminité du Bois (Femininity of Wood). 2009 marks the 16th anniversary of a fragrance that set a new tone in the history of perfume (1993 is retained as the first full year of its worldwide launch), the overture to an oeuvre that has continued to weave its spell over the years from provocation to enchantment, sometimes rubbing people the wrong way, at other times appearing deceptively simple. In this subtitled video interview commemorating Féminité du Bois' launch and re-launch in its "naked" and "simple" form (it was repackaged under the Serge Lutens label), the author and artist talks about his original vision (please watch video after the jump)...
Continue reading "Serge Lutens Talks About Feminite du Bois & Cedar: An Exclusive Video Interview on the Occasion of the 16th Anniversary of a Modern Classic {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
•• Interview with Serge Lutens Around El Attarine And Serge Noire ••
1) TSS: El Attarine is a reference to Arabian culture, to a well-defined place, the coranic school of Fès. It was written regarding Serge Noire that it is a perfume "without a sense of place". Are these two perfumes complementary ones for you?
- Serge Lutens: "El Attarine" is a perfume which synthetizes all the history or rather that spirit which presided over the birth of my perfumery, which has its roots in Morocco.
"Serge Noire" is not a perfume without a sense of place. It is quite the opposite in fact! It is situated on my own itinerary. I imagined and created Dior makeup and its image from 1968 to 1980. This period made me experience the last moments of what I would term "Parisian Haute Couture" (La Haute Couture parisienne): luxury (genuine, this time), rigor, mastery and respect for the feminine body image. That muffled atmosphere of the show rooms, of the fashion presentations - much more ritualistic than fashion shows - has made the perfume come to fruition in myself. An ethereal atmosphere, an elegance that is silent on a background of black serge suit materials, pale complexions, and tight straight hairdos......
Continue reading "Interview with Serge Lutens Around El Attarine And Serge Noire {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
Photo © Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido Serge Lutens s'exprime autour de la création de ses deux derniers parfums, El Attarine et Serge Noire. Nous apprenons qu' El Attarine est un condensé de son expérience d'artiste et d'esthète du cinquième sens, un hommage rendu à la parfumerie lutensienne d'inspiration arabe. Quant à Serge Noire, il est son parfum le plus personnel, son préféré aussi, mais aussi de manière plus inattendue, un hommage rendu à l'esprit de Dior filtré par le souvenir et l'imaginaire de Serge Lutens.... Interview de Serge Lutens •• Autour d’El Attarine et de Serge Noire
1) TSS - El Attarine est une référence à la culture arabe, à un lieu même bien particulier, l’école coranique de Fès. Il est dit de Serge Noire qu’il s’agit d’un parfum “sans lieu”. Sont-ce là deux parfums complémentaires pour vous?
Serge Lutens: “El attarine” est un parfum qui reprend toute l’histoire ou plutôt l’esprit de la naissance de ma parfumerie, prenant racine au Maroc.
“Serge Noire” n’est pas un parfum sans lieu. Bien au contraire ! Il se situe sur mon parcours. J’ai imaginé et crée le maquillage Dior et son image de 1968 à 1980. Cette période m’a fait connaître les derniers instants de ce que je nommerais “la Haute Couture parisienne” : luxe (réel, cette fois), rigueur, maîtrise et respect de l’aimage du corps féminin. Cette atmosphère feutrée des salons de présentation, des défilés – beaucoup plus rituels que shows – a fait naître ce parfum en moi. Une atmosphère éthérée, une élégance silencieuse sur fond de tissus tailleurs en serge noire, teints pâles et cheveux plats......
Continue reading "•• Interview de Serge Lutens •• Autour de El Attarine et de Serge Noire {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
When Ralph Wild by Ralph Lauren first discreetly launched in late 2007, we immediately became aware of its existence as we got an email a few days before New Year revealing a certain sense of urgency from a young reader named Terra, "I'm looking for a new perfume by Ralph Lauren that a friend said she found
in Macy's called Ralph Wild, and I can't seem to find anything about it
anywhere. Have you heard of it? I don't see it anywhere on your blog."
We were able to provide her with a link to Dillard's, where it was already in store, and to make an announcement illustrated with an early preview of the ad found on Sephora with model Amanda Charlwood but without any further details given about the new Ralph. Later we were able to do a brief review of the perfume which we thought was better than expected, offering a nice strawberry jammy quality, like a more laid-back and younger version of Miss Dior Chérie.
This time, Ralph Lauren has decided to launch an internet-only communication campaign, including a contest to win a Vespa, and this is why The Scented Salamander got the opportunity to interview assistant vice-president for Ralph Lauren Fragrances Linda Kramer who developed the fragrance together with Olivier Gilotin and Jim Krivda. It is not easy to break the reserve of a corporate officer working for the mainstream fragrance industry, but Linda Kramer graciously accepted to answer some of our questions. We think this Q & A gives you some insights into how a prestige, more mass-marketed fragrance comes about and how it is conceived. For example, the design and packaging inspire the scent composition. If any young people are interested in becoming fragrance developers, you know what to expect. And by the way, Lauren, which is mentioned in the interview, used to be a great perfume. Bring it back! Pauline adds "Ralph Lauren Blue is a great office scent!" Perfume Q & A with Linda Kramer
1 - How did the creative team decide to express the idea of “wildness” in Ralph Wild?
The first step is to identify the key elements of the brand – This fragrance was designed to represent a girl who is spontaneous, fearless and confident. We also look at the imagery and the color of the packaging. Based on all of these elements of Ralph Wild, it was clear to us that we needed to create a fragrance that would make a bold statement but would also tie in the Ralph Wild Girl’s personality and the color of the packaging.
2- Juicy candied nuances and fruity-floral perfumes seem to be very popular nowadays, why do you think that is?
Fruity floral fragrances with candy-like and edible nuances are indeed very popular right now. The reason being is the comforting, familiarity of these notes as well as the nostalgic effect they have on us. These types of notes have the amazing ability to olfactively transport us back to the happy memories of our youth......
Continue reading "Interview with Linda Kramer, Assistant Vice-President for Ralph Lauren Fragrances {Perfume Q & A}" »
 In this informative in-house interview conducted by biehl. parfumkunstwerke, we learn about the process of creation of the house's perfumes in the words of Egon Oelkers. He is also a senior perfumer at Symrise and head of their new perfumery training program (cf. Perfumer & Flavorist). He composed eo01, eo02, and eo03 for the brand.
“Every perfumer dreams of a chance like this.”
Egon Oelkers about his cooperation with Thorsten Biehl and his own Parfumkunstwerke.
How did the cooperation with Thorsten Biehl come about?
That’s an old connection. I know Thorsten Biehl from his time with the fragrance producer Symrise, where he was working in marketing and sales. I also worked closely for a long time with his father, perfumer Henning Biehl. When roughly a year ago Thorsten Biehl launched biehl. parfumkunstwerke, he asked me if I would like to develop three personal fragrances for him – and naturally I assented.
How did your fragrances eo01, eo02 and eo03 emerge?
The only instruction I had from Thorsten Biehl ran: “You are completely free, be creative – and compose a fragrance that is very quality, far surpassing mass taste.” I was truly given no conditions at all on either theme or price. Thorsten Biehl’s sole wish was that I should create a voluminous, heavy fragrance, i.e. not one with light, fresh summer notes, but rather one in an Oriental direction. This free, independent work corresponded very well with my ideas of perfumery. I prefer to work with such natural products as woods, spices and blossoms. It is hard to create these fragrance notes with synthetic substances, and so they are usually very costly. For my creations for Thorsten Biehl, I was able to use a high proportion of such natural products and thus create very spicy, woody fragrances. For me it is important that fragrances should not become too overpowering or narcotic, as can easily be the case with animal components. For all their abundance and richness, they should nevertheless remain transparent.......
Continue reading "Interview with Perfumer Egon Oelkers - Biehl Parfumkunstwerke {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
Photography by Serge Lutens, reproduced with the permission of Peter Gabor - © Reproduction is forbidden, used for pedagogical purposes. As people will see in the second part of our interview with Serge Lutens (see Part 1), he is a mind that always thinks beyond the predictable limits set by a question. Here he expresses himself regarding Baudelaire's legacy, his line of makeup, the mythical Nombre Noir fragrance, niche perfumery, and his contribution to contemporary perfumery. Marie-Helene Wagner: 16 – Do you think that speaking of perfumery, we are the heirs to Baudelaire?
Serge Lutens:
- Perfume, in and of itself, is not just an aroma. It is potentially a carrier for the imagination. Perfume is thick; it is poison and pure desire. It is Eros in prison! I think that we are first and foremost the heirs to frustration, but also to revolt, with means that the ones who have not subjected themselves still have aspirations…. "Coiffe façon Tatlin Tower" by Serge Lutens, an interpretation of the unfinished Tatlin Tower built by architect Vladimir Tatlin.
Continue reading "Q & A With Serge Lutens - Part 2 {Perfume Q & A}" »
Photographie de Serge Lutens, reproduite avec la permission de Peter Gabor - © toute reproduction interdite, usage strictement pédagogique Comme vous pourrez le constater en lisant cette deuxième partie de notre interview avec Serge Lutens (voir la première partie), il est un esprit qui pense toujours au-delà des limites prévisibles assignées par les questions. Ici, il s'exprime sur l'héritage baudelairien, sa collection de fards, le parfum mythique Nombre Noir, la parfumerie dite de "niche", et sa contribution à la parfumerie contemporaine.
Marie-Hélène Wagner:
16 - Pensez-vous qu’en matière de parfumerie, nous soyons les héritiers de Baudelaire ? Serge Lutens: - Le parfum n’est pas en soi qu’une senteur. Il est porteur d’imaginaire. Le parfum est épais, il est poison et désir pur. C’est Eros en prison ! Je pense que nous sommes avant tout héritiers de la frustration, mais aussi de la révolte qui fait que les non-soumis aspirent encore…
Continue reading "Questions & Réponses Avec Serge Lutens - 2ème Partie {Perfume Q & A}" »
Passion for Perfume - Portraits Archive
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- Lanvin Jeanne (2008) and Jeanne La Rose (2010): Part 1 - The Scent of High Fashion, Suavissime Soap and Back {Perfume Reviews} {New Fragrance}
- Laura Tonatto Notte a Taif (2010) {New Perfume} E Duse is Back & New e-Commerce {Fragrance News}
- Chanel Chance Eau Tendre (2010) {New Perfume}
- Lancome Tresor in Love (2010) {New Perfume}
- Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose (2010): Dinner with Chamade, with Notes on Patrimonial Perfumes {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}
- Quick Thoughts on Fashion, Perfume and Celebs by Jean Paul Gaultier: It's All Linked {Fashion Notes}
- Scented Quote of the Day, from John Keats:
- Celine Dion Simply Chic (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrances}
- Maison Martin Margiela Line 3 (Untitled) (2010): Dark Galbanum, Dirty Green Musk {Perfume Review}
- Hermes Voyage d'Hermes (2010) {New Perfume}
- Donna Karan Pure DKNY (2010) {New Perfume}
- Chloe Eau de Fleurs Capucine, Neroli, Lavande (2010) {New Perfumes}
- Galilu Olfactory Perfumery is the Nec Plus Ultra & not just in Varsaw {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses}
- Jean Paul Gaultier Eyes & Nails for Spring Summer 2010 {Fashion Notes - Backtage Beauty}
- Paris Hilton Channels Marilyn Monroe for her 10th Perfume {Celebrity Fragrance} {Perfume News}
- German Dufstars 2010 Finalists: Best Perfumes of 2009 {Fragrance News}
- Beyonce Heat: The TV Commercial Served Sizzling Hot {Perfume Images & Ads} {Celebrity Fragrances}
- Salvador Dali Little Kiss Me (2010) {New Perfume}
- The Best Perfumes of 2000-2009 in Poetry by Cinquieme Sens {Fragrance News} {Perfume List}
- Chanel Spring-Summer 2010 Haute Couture Collection: Neon Baroque {Fashion Notes}
- L'Occitane Fleurs de Cerisier 50ml, Cerisier des Oiseaux, Rose Confite (2010) {New Perfumes}
- Beyonce Heats it Up in Union Square on February 2nd, 2010 {Scented Paths & Fragrant Addresses} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- Hugo Boss Man & Element One Fragrance One Tree Ad Campaign & Competition (2010) {New Perfumes} {Fragrance News}
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