July 1, 2008

Parfum d'Empire Yuzu Fou, Aziyadé (2008) {New Perfumes}


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Parfum d'Empire will launch two new perfumes in September 2008 baptized Yuzu Fou (Mad Yuzu) and Aziyadé. They represent a new variation on the dominant thematic of the perfume house which aims to retell the stories of empires in perfumes: the two new scents concentrate more on the idea of multiculturalism as experienced through travels within the contemporary world and in history.

Yuzu Fou is about 21st century Japan and the meeting of a hyper urban architecture with  suspended gardens and vegetal walls all set in the context of a trendy Japanese culture; Aziyadé is a transcultural interpretation of the past of several empires at the height of their powers as "...it evokes civilisation at its peak, a moment when cultural richness is at one with luxury and ectasy." The latter is also a fragrance created in honor of Parfum d'Empire's 10th anniversary and "...was inspired by his [founder and perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato's] faithful friend and partner Ambre de Reinac Cessac"...


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June 30, 2008

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Dans Tes Bras by Maurice Roucel (2008) {New Perfume}

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Editions de Parfums under the helm of its founder and perfume editor Frédéric Malle has unveiled its latest fragrance composition titled Dans Tes Bras (In Your Arms). It was created by perfumer Maurice Roucel. The celebrated French perfumer is also the author of Editions de Parfums Musc Ravageur, Rochas Tocade, Guerlain L'Instant, Insolence, Lolita Lempicka L, to name a few. It is thus Roucel's second contribution to the select offerings of the Parisian niche perfume house which is well-known for its quest for excellence and ambition to durably impact contemporary perfumery.

The Editions de Parfums creations tend to be both demandingly intellectual and to privilege sensuality; with Maurice Roucel in the equation, he who is well-reputed for his sensualist approach and love of women, one can expect the sensual side to be prominent. His first creation for the brand, Musc Ravageur, soon became a new reference for musk perfumes....



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Portrait of the Artist

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June 27, 2008

Mandarina Duck Scarlet Rain (2008) {New Perfume}

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Trendy luggage brand Mandarina Duck has launched a new perfume aimed at satisfying the tastes of a more mature age group of women called Scarlet Rain. It was developed and produced by Idesa Parfums. The new scent also ties into the glamor trend as evidenced by perfumes like Lancôme Magnifique, Azzaro Couture, Kate Moss Velvet Hour, Ralph Lauren Notorious,

Scarlet Rain will appeal to “a more mature, more feminine, more glamorous woman who revels in fashion and luxury”.......
 

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Ralph Lauren Notorious (2008) {New Perfume}

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Ralph Lauren will launch a new women's perfume this summer and fall called Notorious that hopes to revive the codes of old Hollywood glamour. Model Laetitia Casta who fronts the advertising campaign promisingly describes it in this way "It's so mysterious and I love the pepper smell."

Illustrating a glam trend that is becoming more and more perceptible in fragrance, Notorious explicitly derived inspiration from film noir actresses "like Faye Dunaway in "The Thomas Crown Affair" and "Chinatown," Lauren Bacall in "The Big Sleep" and Ingrid Bergman in Alfred Hitchcock's classic thriller "Notorious.".....

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June 25, 2008

•• Creed Love In Black (2008) •• A Celebration of Jackie Kennedy Onassis {New Perfume}



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The house of Creed will release a new perfume for women this September 2008 titled Love In Black. It was inspired by the sense of elegance, beauty, and personality of Jacqueline Bouvier Kennedy Onassis. Creed established in 1760 is well-known for its celebrity clientèle and for their periodic perfumery homages to iconic women.

From the press release, here is an early preview,

"Sixth-generation master perfumer Olivier CREED presents his homage to onyx-eyed beauty Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis with his new creation, Love In Black, a fragrance that celebrates the mystery and style of this legendary woman.  The fragrance -- even its bottle –- call upon elements of nature symbolic in her extraordinary life.  To mark the 40th anniversary of her wedding to Aristotle Onassis in the Greek isles dotted by black sands and night-blooming wildflowers,.... 

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June 23, 2008

•• Les Parfums de Rosine Un Zéphir de Rose (2008) •• A Real Natural Beauty {Perfume Review} {New Perfume}

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Un Zéphir de Rose (Rose Zephyr) is one of the two latest creations by Les Parfums de Rosine (see Eau Fraîche Rose d'Eté). It was launched in the spring of 2008.

 

The Rose Is Queenly Throughout

Like Diabolo Rose last year, which was composed around rose and mint, it promised to be a perfume based on a cool green pairing but with anise this time. As it turns out, Un Zéphir de Rose is more to the point a celebration of the natural beauty of an exceptional quality of Bulgarian rose essence. In this sense it is more accurate to view it through the lens of an exquisite and minimally adulterated rose soliflore.

The perfume was created by perfumer François Robert in 2008 and rose is present at all three stages of the perfume development. Perceptibly so and more than any of the other Parfums de Rosine we have experienced thus far, it can also be assimilated to a vintage harvest edition resting on the unique quality of a rose cultivated one particular year. The idea of adding an aniseed nuance to Un Zéphir de Rose was inspired by a rose bloom from Marie-Hélène Rogeon's garden near Paris which presented this natural facet....

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•• Les Parfums de Rosine Eau Fraîche Rose d'Eté (2008) •• {New Fragrance}

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Les Parfums de Rosine have introduced a lighter version of their Rose d'Eté (Summer Rose), a fruity-floral composition based on a yellow rose laced with ripe apple. The new scent is called Eau Fraîche Rose d'Eté.

 

This Parisian niche perfume house is wholly dedicated to creating rose perfumes. If you are a rose devotee and haven't yet heard of them, they are a must-try...... 

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•• Beckham Signature for Her & Signature for Him •• {New Fragrances} {Celebrity Perfumes}

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The Beckhams will be launching a new duo of fragrances called Beckham Signature for Her and Him in September 2008 following the two Intimately Beckham Night scents last year.

The new venture reportedly represents a foray into more prestige branding and is meant to reflect their new image since their establishment in California. It is not entirely clear what this means, but it seems to be an allusion to a more ostentatious, glamorous Californian lifestyle and maybe something to do with the myth of the American dream. At any rate and as always, Victoria promises that by purchasing the new scents, "You're getting a piece of David and me with this." The brand said,

"We decided to launch Beckham Signature for Him and Her in the prestige market due to the high style and aspirational nature of David and Victoria,"[...]

"In order to capture their iconic, sophisticated sense of style, it seemed appropriate to take the Beckham franchise to the next level. This is the most selective and exclusive fragrance launch yet." ....

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June 20, 2008

•• Tom Ford White Patchouli (2008) •• Black & White All The Way {New Fragrance} {New Perfume Advert}

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Following an early spotting of the upcoming new Tom Ford feminine fragrance fronted by singer Erykah Badu, we now learn that White Patchouli will be launched in September 2008. Tom Ford said,

"For this project, I wanted to reinvent patchouli," [...] "I loved the idea of mixing patchouli with white florals. We used patchouli orpur, which takes out some of the darker, smoky notes of patchouli. We mixed that with peony, bergamot, and jasmine" Additional notes include rose, coriander, and ambrette seed."......


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Gucci by Gucci pour Homme (2008) •• Freshness Imperative {New Fragrance}

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Gucci is one of those mainstream designer brands that offers an interesting perfume portfolio. Their scents can reveal a niche feel of more recherché and intense accords like for Gucci pour Homme and Gucci Eau de Parfum, or Rush.

Last year, although Gucci by Gucci played the more sedate card of adapted classicism, it came across as a convincing modernized chypre. Following its success, the brand will launch a masculine counterpart in September 2008 called Gucci by Gucci pour Homme.....

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Prada Infusion d'Homme (2008) •• Just Showered {New Fragrance}

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Prada will launch a masculine counterpart to the popular Infusion d'Iris for women, introduced in 2007, called Infusion d'Homme. It is inspired directly as well by the iris feminine scent and was composed by the same perfumer, Daniela Andrier of Givaudan.

The scent aims before all to feel clean; "It has a very fresh, crisp smell — like a man just out of the shower." It will be somewhat interesting to see how this new trendy sensation is conveyed (see for comparison Etat Libre d'Orange Tom of Finland, Clean Showerfresh).....

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June 19, 2008

The New Perry Ellis for Men •• More Info {Fragrance News} {Shopping Tip}


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The new Perry Ellis for Men is generating quite a buzz,what with the handsome bottle, the glam Italianate advertising and the teasing scent strips in the glossies from the end of spring 2008.

After TSS posted earlier on about the upcoming cologne, there was a palpable surge of interest for the fragrance both from people on the blog and via email. Readers asked questions about its whereabouts as it has been tricky to track down the fragrance in stores and online. The local Boston Macy's men's perfume counter rep unexpectedly stated that they did not carry Perry Ellis fragrances. Perry Ellis had the following to say,....

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June 18, 2008

Serge Lutens Serge Noire (2008) •• "For You Ethereal Beauties! White Skins and Black Serge..." {New Perfume}

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Photo © Alain Beulé/Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido 

 

We are truly delighted to bring an exclusive announcement to the readers of The Scented Salamander about the third Serge Lutens opus to come out this year as is the custom for the perfume house.

The word "serge" may not be as commonly seen or heard nowadays as it was in the 19th and early 20th century, when this name designated a type of textile that was then very popular. Whoever has read Au Bonheur des Dames by Emile Zola (ca. 1883), inspired by the still existing Bon Marché, might remember the exotic apparition of this term in the monologues of obsessive merchants, the conversations between sellers and customers and the worried haggling over prices by money-pinching sorts. It is also the first name of its creator, Serge Lutens, who slightly shifts the expected meaning of this term appearing on one of his perfumes.

Serge Noire (lit. Black Serge, the textile) is one of the three creations announced this year by Salons du Palais Royal Shiseido, after Five O' Clock Au Gingembre and El Attarine. Like last year's Rousse, Louve, and Sarrasins, three compositions see the day of light and will no doubt generate excitement and wonder anew among perfume aficionados even before they can smell the new concoctions created by the collaboration of dream weavers Serge Lutens and Christopher Sheldrake.

As usual, a Lutensian perfume is to be imagined both in words and images before just being inhaled. It could thus be argued that such a perfume truly first opens on an ineffable, mysterious preamble and that words are as laden with meaning as the ensuing perfume notes. While Serge Lutens' olfactory works are usually thought to be rich and very much indebted to the Orientalist genre - the reverse is true actually too - with all its traditional excesses, his poetic prose can feel almost lacunary in its nudity by contrast,

"Un éther de cendres

Il s'agit de la serge.

Une façon de me créer une mauvaise réputation à valeur ajoutée."

Without going into the possible different occult and philosophical meanings of "éther", we will just point out that it could mean one of several things, to be interpreted later.

"An ether of ashes

I speak of serge

A way of creating for myself a bad reputation with added value"......

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Lalique White (2008) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne} - Thierry de Baschmakoff at Lalique {Fragrance News}

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Crystal-maker Lalique will launch a new fragrance for men called Lalique White, first next week, exclusively at Harrods in London, and then worldwide in September 2008. The US and Middle East will only discover it in 2009.

The scent is described as a fresh hesperidic perfume and was composed by perfumer Christine Nagel who reportedly was interested in bringing out the fresh, cool facets of spices.....

 

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June 17, 2008

Byredo Green, Rose Noir, Gypsy Water, Pulp & Chembur: A New Cosmopolitan Swedish Name in Fragrance (2008) {New Perfumes - New Brand}



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Byredo is a Stockholm-based newcomer onto the perfume scene as a brand founded by Ben Gorham, a graduate of the Stockholm Art School and an ex-student of interior design. Acting as creative director for the new line, he has assembled the talents of perfumers Olivia Giacobetti, Jérôme Epinette, and Michel Almairac to compose a collection of five fine fragrances, six home fragrances - and drawing on his love for interior decoration - one for boutique hotels.

The five Eaux de Parfum are titled Green, Rose Noir, Gypsy Water, Pulp, and Chembur. Says Gorham,

"I have always been fascinated by the world of fragrance and its effects on my memories and impressions. Through BYREDO I want to communicate my own personal experiences - to contribute to an almost collective memory of time and place. I also believe  in a modern approach without loosing olfactory techniques  - of simply bringing together the best of old and new." .....

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June 16, 2008

Serge Lutens El Attarine (2008) {New Perfume}

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We have an early announcement and preview of the new Serge Lutens perfume to come out in August 2008. Affirming the roots of his inspiration even further, it is named this time in Arabic El Attarine and is part of the non-export collection of perfumes kept at the Salons Shiseido du Palais Royal, away from the madding crowd.

Regular readers of TSS know that it is somewhat of a ritual on these pages to decipher the first signs offered by the latest Lutens olfactory poem. Last year, Louve and Sarrasins were scrutinized early on for subtext clues. This June 2008 we are invited to approach the new perfume with these three initial lines,

 

Solaire.
Traduit tout ce qui est odoriférant.
La route des parfums en un jus solaire
.

Solar.

Translates everything that is permeated with scent.

The road of perfumes into a solar essence.

Then after opening this one door, Serge Lutens explains further,.... 

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The limited edition of El Attarine by Serge Lutens. It offers a motif of entwined black enamel leaves. Only 30 copies of the 75 ml eau de parfume are available for 850 € each. They are also decorated with the Serge Lutens stamp at the back.

 

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Kate Moss Velvet Hour (2008) {New Perfume} {New Fragrance Ad} {Trend Alert}


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Supermodel Kate Moss, who unbelievably looks like she is only 16 on some of her recent magazine ads, but looked more human in Berlin on June 13 in Berlin, i.e., 34, just went there to launch her newest and second scent titled Velvet Hour.

The ad campaign is shot by Mert & Marcus and features a feline Kate Moss luxuriating in a scintillating deep blue lamé dress while her new perfume looks like a smoking gun of seduction. The tag line reads "Embrace The Night" and sounds like a more sophisticated perfume than her debut one, Kate Moss.....

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Prince Matchabelli Sexiest Musk (2008) {New Perfume}

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Prince Matchabelli, a fragrance brand founded in 1926, now owned by Connecticut-based perfume company Parfums de Coeur, has released a new scent called Sexiest Musk. The flaming red packaging says it all,

"Dare to try the world’s SEXIEST fragrance!
Ready for romance and feeling your most feminine. Wearing Sexiest Musk is like slipping on an exquisite piece of lingerie.
Sexiest Musk is a long-lasting, warm oriental fragrance that dries down to a sensual combination of amber, musk and vanilla." 

The 1.2 oz Eau de Parfum is priced at $9. 99. The 2.5 oz body spray at $3. 79. Available at Parfums de Coeur and at your local Walgreens.

Montana En Turquoise (2008) {New Fragrance} {New Perfume Ad}

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Montana has issued a new limited-edition feminine fragrance for this summer called Montana en Turquoise. It is meant to evoke the Caribbean and is bottled in the signature sculptural flacon for the brand. You are perfume and live under a parasol by the big blue turquoise sea.

The scent is described as a fresh marine floral and features notes of ocean spray, bergamot, lily, white orchid, vanilla bean, musks, warm wood.

It is priced at 44 €.

Image: Images de Parfums; available at News Parfums 

 

June 15, 2008

Azzaro Azzaro Couture (1974-1975/2008) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}

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The house of Azzaro has announced two days ago that they will re-introduce in October of 2008 an adapted version of Azzaro Couture which was originally launched in 1974-1975 as a fruity chypre in the lineage of Guerlain Mitsouko. While other brands like Guerlain and Yves Saint Laurent are trying to reach out to a younger female consumer base Azzaro, who has put out a number of more juvenile, less formal scents in the past few years, is tapping into its glamorous heritage for this new perfume meant to be worn like a night gown.

Turning to young perfumer Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan, who is fast becoming an expert in modernized adaptations of vintage fragrances (see Robert Piguet Baghari and Visa), they asked him to do a respectful reformulation of the perfume all the while preserving the Loris Azzaro signature; artistic director Vanessa Seward, who collaborated on the project, said that it was on of the couturier's favorite fragrances. Said Seward,

"Azzaro Couture was very important for Loris,” she confirmed. “It was one of his favourite perfumes…and he often talked to me about it. He wanted to tailor it to today’s tastes. I decided to approach this classic with respect for the roots of the name and its Couture tradition…as an homage to him.".....

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June 13, 2008

Bulgari Jasmin Noir (2008) {New Fragrance}

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Bulgari has decided to lend a more sophisticated touch to its jasmine perfume with a variation called Jasmin Noir (Black Jasmine). Created by Carlos Benaïm and Sophie Labbé, it aims to satisfy the consumer in search of rarer sensations.

The scent is described as a woody floral, confirming once more that this category is the new in thing for mainstream women's fragrances (cf. Sensuous, Magnifique, and others)....

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Mariah Carey Luscious Pink (2008) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}

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Pop singer Mariah Carey has been working on the sequel to M and the result called Luscious Pink is apparently above-and-beyond-the-call-of-duty. Described as a sparkling floral, it mimics at one point the high-pitched notes Mariah Carey is capable of hitting while the perfumers say they were more generally inspired by the enveloping sensation of Mariah's voice. Said the singer,

"Elizabeth Arden has been a fantastic partner and the end creation of Luscious Pink is beyond my expectations," 

Judging from M, which was good, one can hope that the new collaboration with perfumers Carlos Benaim and Loc Dong has given birth to another inspired celebrity fragrance.

The Japanese market was kept in mind this time as Carey wants to reach out to her fan base in that country......

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Lancôme Magnifique: An Ode to Red & Glamor (2008) {New Perfume}


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More information is now available on the jus of Magnifique. Developed by Jacques Cavallier and Olivier Cresp of Firmenich it was inspired by Anne Hathaway's love of the color red as well as by the wish to add a woodsy feminine to the Lancôme collection, just like Estée Lauder did with Sensuous. Finally, as with quite a few fragrances lately, India was a source of inspiration for the perfumers who traveled to the country to seek out ideas. According to WWD,

"The challenge was to work on wood [notes]," said Cresp, explaining the women's fragrance market has few woody juices. While he and Cavallier were in India they came upon nagarmota, a plant giving off a woody odor. They liked it so much, they opted to use nagarmota essential oil in Magnifique.".....

 

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June 12, 2008

Calvin Klein CKIN2U POP for Her & for Him (2008) {New Fragrances}

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Following the launch of the CKIN2U duo in 2007, Calvin Klein is releasing a re-orchestrated duo of limited-edition fragrances called CKIN2U POP Her and Him, which are also packaged in re-designed bottles. The shape of the flacons remains the same, but is now colored with tart colors.

CKIN2U POP for Her is a citrusy floral and CKIN2U POP for Him is a tonic woodsy cologne....

 

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Jo Malone White Tie & Tiara for Elton John Aids Charity (2008) {New Perfume}


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Jo Malone has created a limited-edition fragrance named White Tie and Tiara exclusively to support the Elton John Aids Foundation. The production has been limited to 1000 copies only and is distributed online through the Jo Malone UK website; however, they ship internationally......

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Lanvin Jeanne Lanvin (2008) {New Fragrance}

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Lanvin is introducing a new feminine perfume which taps into the historic heritage of the house. It is named Jeanne Lanvin after the founder of the couture brand; the flacon is decorated with the mother-and-daughter logo by Paul Iribe from the 1920s. But in a clear move to adapt to new mores and a new generation of consumers, the fragrance has been colored pink and made to smell "young" as an up-to-date fruity-floral. Perfumer Anne Flipo, who created the scent together with artistic director Alber Elbaz, said,

“I was aiming for something simple yet sophisticated—impertinent and young—mirroring the modern woman Jeanne Lanvin was,” ......

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June 11, 2008

More about Lancôme Magnifique (2008) + Party Pictures {New Perfume}

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When, finally, the flacon appeared on the giant screen at the Grand Palais on June 10, 2008

 
Although details about the new feminine perfume by Lancôme, Magnifique, are still kept somewhat under wrap, we have received more information about the scent. What does it smell like? Who is the perfumer?....

 

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The magnifique Hathaway 

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