Bond No. 9 will release a new fragrance in March of 2010 inspired by yet another corner of New York City. This time the subject of inspiration is the original idea of the reconverted High Line into a green public space. The perfume is said to be a "marine green floral" composition created by perfumer Laurent Le Guernec of IFF.
The scent takes inspiration from the duality of the High Line setting. There is the rural charm of the re-conceptualized rail road, whose gardening design by Dutch horticulturist Piet Oudols is said to be particularly rustic peopled with a majority of local breeds, which ensures longer blooming seasons...
Monocle x Comme des Garcons Scent Two: Laurel (2009) {New Perfume}
Magazine Monocle have released a second fragrance created in collaboration with Comme des Garçons following Hinoki in 2008. It is called Scent Two: Laurel. Interestingly, the creative team cites as a source of inspiration one that is often decried by niche perfumery aficionados often on the lookout for rarer sensations, that is soap...
Costume National Homme (2009) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
Last October, Costume National released a new masculine perfume called Costume National Homme described as "a new approach to fragrance". Founder of the brand Ennio Capasa said "The harmony between natural and rare elements creates an original,
sensual and charming fragrance, for an essential and timeless man".
The Eau de Parfum was composed by perfumer Dominique Ropion and features notes of cardamom, bergamot, cinnamon, thyme, clove, patchouli, sandalwood, labdanum. Predominant notes are said to be bergamot, cinnamon and patchouli.
Marc jacobs Splash Collection Apple, Pomegranate, Biscotti (2010) {New Fragrances}
As I was already writing in my review of Wanted by Helena Rubinstein, macaroons are the new Swarovski crystals. I did not phrase it this way exactly but for anyone who is living in Paris and paying attention it is hard to escape the fact that macaroons or macarons in
French are the new iconic signs of luxury. Even art galleries use the
icon to advertise their artists. Isabella Blow is credited for having had the idea of introducing the widespread use of Swarovski crystals in the field of fashion as a means to add an affordable touch of luxury. Today, macaroons are studding the fashion and beauty scenes as well.
Marc Jacobs will launch a new trio of oversized Splash perfumes next summer " inspired by an array of macaroons in a Paris patisserie," They are called Apple, Pomegranate and Biscotti...
Orlane Autour du Coquelicot, de l'Iris, du Muguet, de la Rose (2009) {New Perfumes}
Cosmetics and perfume brand Orlane have launched a quatuor of perfumes each centering on an interpretation of a floral note. The collection is called Les Bouquets d'Orlane (Orlane Bouquets) and includes Autour du Coquelicot (Around the Poppy), Autour de l'Iris, Autour du Muguet and Autour de la Rose....
Ed Hardy Hearts & Daggers for Women & Men (2010) {New Perfumes}
Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier will introduce a duo of fragrances for women and men called Hearts & Daggers in the first quarter of 2010. The perfumes are meant "... to reflect the striking nature of the clothing brand."
The women's Eau de Parfum features top notes of blood orange orpur, violet leaf and
apple; middle notes of mango, apple blossoms and pink jasmine; and
drying notes blending cashmere musk, amber, benzoin tears orpur and
blond wood....
As previously announced,Sweden-based perfume houseByredohave released their ninth perfume which pays homage to the poet Charles Baudelaire. It is called Baudelaire. The perfume was inspired by a passage, 5-8, from a poem from Les Fleurs du Mal entitled "Parfum Exotique" (Exotic Perfume). This passage is about the conjuring-up of the aromas and images of an exotic island on a warm fall evening in Paris (Baudelaire loved Paris like nothing else and famously hated the bucolic charms of the countryside) while breathing in the perfumes emanating from the bosom of his lover,
« . . . a lazy isle to which nature has given
singular trees, savory fruits,
men with bodies vigorous and slender,
and women in whose eyes shines a startling candor . . . »
...
My DNA Fragrance Antiquity Line Based on the DNA of Dead Celebrities (2009) {New Perfumes} {Celebrity Fragrances}
As I already remarked in 2007, there is a sub-branch of the celebrities fragrances business that is that of the dead-celebrity perfume. Now My DNA Fragrance which specializes in harvesting your DNA to propose custom-tailored scents replicating your pheromones has taken an even bolder step after POTUS 1600. It has now turned to the slightly lugubrious idea of creating perfumes based on the DNA of dead celebrities. The tag line is "ENGINEERED from the DNA of some of the most recognized Celebrities and Famous people in the world."
The brand has partnered with the foremost authority on and collector of dead illustrious persons' hair, not that there must be a ton of such collectors attracted to the weird and the bizarre, nor that much hair around. John Reznikoff has the distinction of having earned the title of "pre-eminent hair collector"
"My DNA Fragrance has analyzed Reznikoff's private collection of celebrity hair and has engineered exclusive fragrances of each one.
Reznikoff was an expert witness for the US Justice Department and has aided the FBI and other law enforcement agencies. He has appeared on The Wall Street Journal Video Channel, CNN's Situation Room with Wolf Blitzer, ABC Nightline, and Good Morning America and has written for nationally circulated magazines. Reznikoff has the largest authenticated hair collection of famous people in the world."....
Natori by Josie Natori (2009): Abstract Lingerie Perfume {Perfume Review}
Natori by Josie Natori
The perfume starts with a subtle, surface powdery impression soon followed by a beautiful both intense and understated aldehydic white floral bouquet like a cleaner but no less feminine Joy by Patou. It is a Joy Americanized, made easier to wrap your mind around, offering the clarity of lines of a beautiful race automobile.
The impression of Joy came to me before I went to check some background information about the scent. Josie Natori said that growing up she was used to reveling in rich perfumes: Joy by Patou that her grand-mother wore, as well as Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez, both which can be described as old-school French perfumes.
This is just the introduction as it turns out. While you were checking the box next to the word "linear" in your mind as one more sign of Americanization in the jus, the fragrance starts to slowly fade into a deeper, darker and fruitier atmosphere reminiscent of the oriental base with myrrh in Gianni Versace (1981) which has aldehydic, fruity, and chypre facets as well...
Barbara Orbison, the widow of singer and composer Roy Orbison, has launched a fragrance inspired by the song Pretty Woman composed by her husband.
Elvis Presley said about the musician that "Roy Orbison is the greatest singer in the world," and Paul McCartney thought along the same lines "He was and always will be one of the greats of rock 'n' roll."...
Design Thierry Bogaert Voile de Beton (2009) {New Perfume}
If you love architecture and deplore our loss of connectedness to our sense of touch not just to smell, you will have to check out this new perfume whose core concept was created by architect Thierry Bogaert. The idea for him was to propose a "...synthesis of his love for matter, form and the sensuality of perfume."
Voile de Béton (Veil of Concrete) is an artisan-made concrete structure designed by Bogaert who is passionate about the material and has used it in urban design. Each unique concrete veil resembling that of a boat shelters a bottle of the perfume going by the same name. The scent is described as a unisex fragrance...
Nature et Decouvertes Nectar de Sajara, Bulle de Yuzu, Seve de Wenge (2009) {New Perfumes}
Nature et Découvertes (Nature and Discoveries), the chain of stores specializing in natural lifestyle founded in 1990 by François and Françoise Lemarchand is in the process of developing their beauty corners. They have just released a debut trio of perfumes that are eco-certified 100% natural and even more, they are made out of a proportion of 83% to 85% organic ingredients.
The fragrances are called Nectar de Sajara (Sajara Nectar), Bulle de Yuzu (Yuzu Bubble) and Sève de Wenge (Wenge Sap) and are part of a collection entitled Esquisses de Nature (Sketches of Nature)....
Coiffeur to both celebrities and grateful Sephora-goers Frederic Fekkai has launched his first personal fragrance called Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum. It is part of the brand's Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Collection which wishes to weave together functionality and olfactory hedonism, pairing beauty and olfaction.
To spice up things, the tag line in the form of a message of affirmation is printed on the bottle in Fekkai's handwriting and with his autograph, "The spirit of a woman -- revealed."
Next time, I suggest selling an erasable pen that can be used on a specially studied surface on the perfume bottle so that one could add one's favorite quote of the moment and absorb it while spritzing...
Auric Blends, which are well-known for their budget, accessible and sexy perfume oils have now turned to all-natural perfume-making. You might have heard of their #1 best-seller Egyptian Goddess, a soft feminine musk scent, but also more recently of their #2 best-seller Love voted my fave in 2007 for Valentine's Day now repackaged in pink to make the charm work better.
The brand have released a quatuor of new fragrance oils which play the green, eco-conscious card that so many are attracted to these days and for good reason. It's just that sometimes marketed compositions are still a bit medicinal, in an involuntary way, or too simple. It's not always easy, but Auric Blends which specialize in simple mixes should not disappoint for the latter part at least. At the same time, I see more and more sophisticated eco-certified blends appear, especially in France...
Parfumerie Generale Papyrus de Ciane (2010) {New Perfume}
Parfumerie Générale will launch a new perfume called Papyrus de Ciane in February 2010. The scent is said to be a woodsy green fragrance.
Perfume history buffs will appreciate the finer points of the composition as it is said to be based on " a contemporary interpretation of Mousse de Saxe (Saxe Moss)" a famous perfumery base created by fragrance company De Laire that was used most notably by the house of Caron, for example in Nuit de Noël and is a reference for perfumers. Isabelle Doyen confessed once that she would have loved to create it and considers it a little jewel.
"Papyrus...
Des Fontaines d'Aréthuse, aux eaux brunes des méandres de Ciane, sa noblesse se pare d'ombelles à l'éclat vert intense..."
Papyrus...
From the Arethuse fountain to the meandering dark waters of Ciane, the elegant sway of intense green plumes..."
Vera Wang Glam Princess: Fronted by Zoe Kravitz (2009) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
The ink on the packaging of Vera Wang Rock Princess has seldom dried, and my written thoughts on it have not quite gelled (it's good, but how good is it?), that it has now been announced that a new princess franchise perfume called Vera Wang Glam Princess will launch in December 2009. Why so many, so soon, you might ask?
"The theory? That fickle younger consumers are constantly buying what is
new and different -- so new expressions once or twice a season offer the
best chance to keep that customer loyal."...
Balenciaga Paris Eau de Parfum (2010): Fronted by Charlotte Gainsbourg {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Sniffing Suggestions}
As announced earlier, Balenciaga have decided to revive their perfume label reportedly left fallow for some 15 to 20 years (they might be thinking of their more classic feminines with either Rumba (1988) or Talisman (1994) as representing the cut-off dates; Cristobal was launched in 1998 and Cristobal pour Homme in 2000). In February 2010, the fragrance Balenciaga Paris will launch in Europe and the US. It is described as a contemporary violet chypre and was created by perfumer Olivier Polge of IFF who just won the Grand Prix International du Parfum.
The new perfume will be fronted by actress Charlotte Gainsbourg but the perfume will have much more to do with the universe of artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière. Gainsbourg is a friend of Ghesquière, the ad will reference Spain, his home country, the bottle is his idea, and the composition itself attempts to incorporate his favorite smells...
Etat Libre d'Orange will Release Tilda Swinton & Josephine Baker Perfumes {Fragrance News}
We have the scoop on exciting celebrity fragrance news from French label Etat Libre d'Orange. As we indicated early on in the process, indie perfume brands have become increasingly interested in the celebrity fragrance market, just like the big dogs, so to speak (Coty, Avon, Parlux, Elizabeth Arden/Unilever...).
You have to realize that this is a fun way to take a second, closer critical look at the notion of being an "independent" niche house, when you see that the movement was initiated by major fragrance labels first and that indies followed the lead. But as noted earlier, indies tend to pick celebrity personalities that are relatively more underground and quirky (as compared to Britney Spears, still quirky admittedly, and JLo)...
Lolita Lempicka Eau de Minuit (2009) {New Perfume} {New Flacon}
Lolita Lempicka have released their 6th limited-edition of their annual Eau de Minuit (Midnight Eau). The 2009 version is decorated with an ajouré red metallic case and adorned further with trimmings. The jus is said to be ever more sensual, carnal and is billed as an oriental gourmand enriched with notes that "...are even more noble, precious and new: myrrh, jasmine, iris concrete, benzoin and vanilla infusion,"....
Kenzo Power Cologne (2009): An 18th Century Twist {New Fragrance} {New Flacon} {Men's Cologne}
Kenzo Parfums is releasing this month a new variation on Kenzo Power (2008) called Kenzo Power Cologne.
Here the term "cologne" is used in the traditional sense of an hesperidic eau as the new flanker attempts to derive inspiration from the 18th century genre by relying on a few key notes....
Natura Brasil Kaiak, Kaiak Aventura (2009) {New Perfumes} {Men's Cologne}
Brazilian beauty and perfume brand Natura Brasil have released two new perfumes for men called Kaiak and Kaiak Aventura.
"With their rich and seductive fragrances and their radiant personalities {who was the advertising genius who first came up with this kind of line?}, the two Kaiak perfumes are an invitation for urban men to be on the move." (My translation).
Kaiak "evokes the freshness of movement in contact with nature that nurtures the spirit." Notes of citruses, aromatics, woods.
Kaiak Aventura is said to be more peppery and woodsy, with citrusy head notes. "Kaiak Aventura keeps a fresh top note but then evokes challenges, surpassing oneself and strong sensations."
No further information on the compositions is provided at this point except that the perfumes are made of 100% biological alcohol.
Comptoir Sud Pacifique Vanille Extreme Aqua Motu, Aloha Tiare EDPs (2009): Higher Concentration {New Perfumes} {New Flacons}
Comptoir Sud Pacifique have issued three of their perfumes in higher concentrations or Eaux de Parfum this fall: Vanille Extrême, Aqua Motu and Aloha Tiare. The signature aluminium bottles have also been replaced by glass flacons to underline the change.
Vanille Extrême is said to be a rich harmony of gourmand notes with vanilla underlined by a hint of caramel and a cocktail of white musks...
Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Sarah Jessica Parker is going to go fruity, to her own surprise. She is proposing a new facet of her personality with the upcoming SJP NYC to be launched in February 2010. It is all intended to mesh with the New York cityscape while channelling her Carrie Bradshaw character of Sex and the City. SJP said,
"A large part of the inspiration was what I now understand to be
people's impressions of seeing Carrie Bradshaw walk down the street and
what feelings that evokes for her and for them -- a real sense of
freedom and possibilities, a love for the city around her and, of
course, fashion,"
SJP NYC was originally the dry code name for the perfume in the labs where they were developing the scent but they thought it sounded sweet enough to stay....
Victoria's Secret threw a photo call / launch party for their new perfume called Velvet at VS Lexington Avenue store in NYC today featuring spokesmodel Alessandra Ambrosio. There was a giant cake in the shape of the new fragrance; now that's an idea for a perfume lover party: the flacon-cake.
It reminds me incidentally that last time I visited a VS store I came out with the most unlikely perfume purchase, one that I would have never suspected might even interest me before I stepped into the boutique. But I try to be impartial when I smell and... got won over by the ditziest scent ever. It' all conceptual. As in, it is so ditzy, it's good. Well, at least that's what I thought then. I am afraid of re-smelling it and having to face the fact that you start thinking strange things when you are lured into the ambiance of a VS temple of girlitude.
Makeup artist Mally Roncal will add a new type of beauty item to her collections and launch her signature perfume on October 29, 2009. The name of the fragrance saves on the number of letter fonts: it is just called Mally. Described as a floral and citrusy fragrance, it pays homage to Roncal's Philippino heritage by showcasing the sampaguita or sampaquita, the national flower of the Philippines...
Isabel Derroisne Gandali (2009): Inspired by the Women of India {New Perfume}
Isabel Derroisné has launched a new fragrance for women called Gandali described as a "flamboyant fruity-floral". The name comes from Sanskrit Gandhali and means "perfumed" or "fragrance of flowers"; it is a girl's name in India...
Profumum Roma Aquae Nobilis, Oxiana (2009) {New Perfumes}
Niche Italian brand Profumum Roma is preparing to release two new scents called Aquae Nobilis and Oxiana.
Aquae Nobilis is a blend of geranium, vetiver, musk and green faerie or absinthe.
"nobility of soul,
nobility of heart and expression...
nobility in her clearest form"
Oxiana, named it seems in reference to Robert Byron's travelogue, Road to Oxiana which is replete with sensory remarks is an incense perfume made with musk, patchouly, myrrh, and opoponax. Oxiana is the name that the ancient Greeks gave to the region around the Oxus or today's Amu Darya in Central Asia.
Tova has released a new flanker to their original Signature perfume called Signature Autumn. According to the QVC website, it is not a faux flanker (in name only) but a real one: you can still find the characteristic scent of Signature in the heart of the fragrance but it has now been embellished with notes evocative of the fall season.
"Fall is in the air--especially when you spritz yourself with this
seasonal version of Tova(R) Signature. With Signature at its core, this
lush fragrance also emits notes of cedar, peony, and golden amber.
Relish the scents of fall--all year round! From the Beauty by Tova(R)
Collection.
"
A 1.7 fl. oz. of Eau de Parfum is priced at $32.50
Other Tova Signature flankers and re-editions include:
Niche Parisian brand Memo is preparing to introduce a new fragrance inspired by the slightly Saint-Exupéry-like idea of a trip to the moon to chase animals called Moon Safari. Clara Molloy, the founder of the brand, has also written a fairy tale for kids.
It appears to be more of a fresh scent than a realistic space-age reminder that outer space smells like charred steak.
Histoires de Parfums Moulin Rouge 1889 & The Tuberose Trilogy (2009) {New Perfumes}
Independent French perfume house Histoires de Parfums is launching four new perfumes this fall. One, Moulin Rouge 1889, follows the main story line of the brand which is to offer a series of compositions inspired by a year and a notable personality or place or event linked to that date. The other part of the launch is more novel for the label which this year is dedicating a set of three perfumes to three variations on the tuberose flower, that "mistress of the night." The Trilogy comprises Tubéreuse 1 (La Capricieuse), Tubéreuse 2 (La Virginale), Tubéreuse 3 (L'Animale)....
Artek & Comme des Garçons STANDARD (2009) {New Perfume}
This October, Finnish design brand Artek will launch an unisex fragrance called STANDARD co-created with maverick perfume brand Comme des Garçons and artistic director Christian Astuguevieille.
"The name derives from Artek's standard thinking,
based on Alvar Aalto's original idea of systems and standards in
furniture design."
The president of CDG Adrian Joffe said,
"I guess the greatest similarity between Comme des Garçons and Artek is that we both have strong vision andbelief in creativity that does not lend itself to compromise," says Adrian Joffe, President of Comme des Garçons Parfum. "We believe such collaborations create a synergy where the result is greater than the sum of its parts." Comme des Garçons is known for its experimental approach in everything it does, continuously creating things that did not exist before. "We like to question the notion of what is luxury," concludes Joffe."...
Berdoues, a French perfume brand from Toulouse established during the "Edwardian" era in 1902, to make use of a convenient English parallel, is well-known for its quaint original violet fragrance, a survivor of the craze for violet perfumes from the turn of the 20th century. It has been lately in the process of updating the original scent and adding new iterations of their famous Violettes de Toulouse to their library. One of the two latest compositions to appear this fall pushing the ensemble to form a quintet is called Violette Divine.
It turns out to be a more intense and darker version of the original while being closer to it than some of their previous flankers ...
L'Occitane Labdanum de Seville, Mimosa de l'Esterel (2009) {New Perfumes}
L'Occitane en Provence will release two new perfumes this fall in their newly baptized collection Voyage en Méditerranée, originally called Notre Flore when it was launched in 2007. The packaging has also changed and become less ornate, with a simpler cap. Each fragrance in the series centers on a key raw material typically found in the Mediterranean region.
Labdanum de Séville centers on cistus labdanum, reportedly from Andalusia, a resinous plant which is used to yield a sweet vegetal amber-y substance. The scent is labeled as an unisex fragrance described as being warm and enveloping.
Kim Kardashian Perfume (2010) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}
Reality TV show popular actress Kim Kardashian of Keeping Up with the Kardashians has now a completed product: her eponymous, debut fragrance. The budding fragrance developer believes in participatory perfume designing and asking for feedback from her fans on her own blog; she was thus asking at one stage of the process,
"Without naming specific brands, what types of scents are you most drawn too--vanilla, musk, fruity, floral, other?
"
At another step of the development, she asked for what color people preferred for a detail on the bottleneck of the future fragrance and while her blog readers favored dark pink, her Twitter and Facebook fans suggested light pink. She went for the last option as it was her favorite one too...
KK holding the unfinished product at an earlier stage of the development process.
New & Upcoming Perfume Launches for Fall/Winter 2009 & Beyond {Fragrance News}
Baudelaire by Nadar, 1855
Here are some upcoming and recently released fragrances not mentioned previously on the blog. For more details, you can go to the index of new perfumes for 2009 which is listed alphabetically by perfume brand.
• Berdoues, the specialist of the violet from Toulouse, have released two new flankers: an extrait or pure parfum and a richer and deeper version called Violette Divine. The first one is housed in an amphora-shaped flacon with a topper reminiscent of a drop and the second one comes in the usual retro atomizer bottle. I only had a quick sniff of the latter but came away with the impression of a dark fruity violet. Their perfumes tend to be better the more concentrated they are.
• Byredo after launching already two perfume portraits this year, one inspired by Josephine Baker, Bal d'Afrique, and the other, Blanche, by an unnamed personal acquaintance will issue a new fragrance this fall continuing to take the route of personality referencing with a perfume inspired by a founding father of olfactory musings, Baudelaire. The scent is simply called Baudelaire and will be found at Barney's in the US...
Les Sens des Fleurs E'Sens, Ideel des Sens, A Double Sens (2009): Scents Co-Signed by Dr. Bach {New Perfumes} {Green Products}
Les Sens des Fleurs (lit.The Meanings of Flowers), is a French eco-certified bio cosmetics brand founded by Stella Mordocco-Menendez. They just released a new collection of perfumes based on the principles and ingredients developed by Dr. Edward Bach and his famous flowers. The wellness theme is taken to heart here as each fragrance is not only an olfactory composition that smells good but has a flowers-of-Dr.-Bach formula included in it to help elevate the moods of women (some would say, good luck with that!).
The series is called Actes de Fleurs (Flowers' Acts) and includes E'Sens, Idéel des Sens, A Double Sens...
If I had stayed with my first impression of the perfume upon smelling it casually in a department store, I would have had to write next that the new Guerlain Idylle is incomprehensibly devoid in creativity, originality and personality.
A superficial take on it will make you believe initially that this composition is yet another variation - barely at that - on the tried-and-tested musk-rose-patchouli standard ensconced in the young and foolish (in a good way) neo-chypres that have been put out since Narciso Rodriguez for Her EDT. It was then closely followed by Sarah Jessica Parker Lovely which managed to fly under the radar of copycatting and pass as an endearing novelty thanks in part to SJP's lovely pink tulle dress. Later, it was succeeded by noteworthy Gucci by Guccy, Yves Saint Laurent Elle and Dior Midnight Poison. Caresse by Fragonard is also a take on this accord. It is these days, the ever-popular accord, that is, if you pay attention, and has become one of the significant olfactory signatures of the times. What will one day bring tears of nostalgia to the eyes of the future generations because it smelled so much like the end of the 20th century and the beginning of the 21st, for now can make you grind your teeth at so much unoriginality when encountered one time too many.
My initial reaction to Idylle was disbelief: I just felt like throwing my arms up in the air and shaking my head at so much ineptitude. Really, for one of their major mainstream launches couldn't the house of Guerlain do better than this? This, to just reheat the Narciso Rodriguez for Her brew courtesy of Francis Kurkdjian, Christine Nagel and the majority's approval on a gaz burner and serve it as if piping hot in a new vessel?
Incidentally, the flacon by Ora Ito is more beautiful in person than on any of the pictures I have seen. It is a much more subtle form in reality.
I was apparently only able in some vexing way to perceive only the shell of the perfume rather than its internal nuances. Retrospectively, it feels a little as if the real story of the perfume was taking place inside a snow globe and I was only able to feel the outer surface. Even on the street, the sillage continued to murmur to me all the sweet expected nothings from a rosy young chypre desperate to follow the trends rather than set it.
Krigler New York City Perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand} {New Perfumes}
Krigler is a New-York based perfume brand taking pride in having been established as far back as in 1904 in the city of Saint Petersburg in Russia before the torments of the revolution which led the Kriglers to take flight. The house boasts a catalog of more than 200 perfumes that were created over the past decades of the 20th century. What is a characteristic trait of the house is the geographic inspiration for their fragrances as each and everyone of them are attached to different, evocative locales in Europe and the USA, reflecting the peregrinations of the Krigler family from the Russian empire to Berlin then going through Monte Carlo, Cap d'Antibes, Paris, and finally New York. There are new creations as well inclusive of yet more exotic locales like India and Japan. Krigler reopened this year at the Plaza Hotel in NYC.
It is hard to gauge independently what was the history of the brand because no immediate historical records seem to have kept their name. According to some French perfumistas, they were available at the Bon Marché a couple of years ago.
Sparkling Diamond 22 is a nectar de Champagne and strawberry blend enlivened visually by the presence of Swarovski crystals in the bottle. It is a reminder of the original gesture by one of the Kriglers who once dropped a diamond in a Champagne bottle in Monte Carlo in 1922.
The numbers on the flacons refer to the year of creation of the scent it houses...
Guerlain Idylle (2009) Part 1: The Evolution of Guerlain's Signature {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}
Idylle means love or the dream of it. It refers to a poetic
genre that in the Greek Antiquity sang the amours and erotic encounters of a
shepherd boy and girl in a bucolic setting.It is also a song of innocence lost expressing feelings such
as the fear to see beauty vanish and youth fly by all too quickly. As the poet
Theocrites penned in one of his idylles, "Soon your youth will fade away like a
dream," thereby inviting the young shepherd girl to experience love before it
is too late.
Thierry Wasser the perfumer who created Idylle explained that in keeping
with the Guerlain family tradition of finding inspiration in love to compose
their fragrances, he had wanted to respect this long line of spiritual
forefathers. The word "youthful" also appears as a key one in his presentation on the dedicated Guerlain website, as befits
the idylle genre and the stylistic choice made here of a crisp, young yet
antique rose tinged with green, with a millefleurs aspect. But it is also more
externally motivated by the house's desire to create an affective link with the
younger generations of women, the customers that will ensure Guerlain's
prosperity into the 21st century....
The American Line Patton, Devil Dog, Liberty, Stealth, Riptide (2009): Fragrances Dedicated to the Armed Forces {New Perfumes} {Men's Cologne}
A Californian company called Parfumologie came up with the project in 2008 to dedicate an entire line of perfumes to the armed forces of the United States of America. They decided to launch the officially licensed line entitled TheAmerican Line with five masculine fragrances and are planning a similar collection for women in the future. The five colognes introduced with the tag line "Uniquely crafted fragrances for the men of the United States military" are Patton (Army), Devil Dog (Marines), Liberty (Navy), Stealth (Air Force) and Riptide (Coast Guard). 10% of the proceeds for each cologne go to each individual branch and an additional 15% will go to the Veterans Affairs.
The inspiration for American Line is based on real-life face-to-face interviews with dozens of active servicemen and veterans.
"[...] Being sensitive to the feelings of the men and women that the
item represented was a top priority.
From these meetings, Parfumologie learned that the idea had
strong appeal, as long as it was carried out correctly.....
Leslie Blodgett Perfume Diaries Bare Skin (2009) {New Perfume}
Leslie Blodgett the founder and innovator behind the Bare Escentuals mineral makeup line has turned to scents with a skin thematic in mind and is readying for the launch of her debut fragrance in October 2009 called Bare Skin by Leslie Blodgett in the Perfume Diaries collection. It will be a limited-edition exclusive to Sephora followed by another launch in the spring of 2010. The perfumes are based on memories preserved in her personal diaries which she has been writing since she was a little girl.
Parfums Nicolas Danila Les Jardins d'Aladin (2009): 7 Perfumes 100% without Allergens {New Fragrances - New Line}
Parfums Nicolas Danila is a new French fragrance brand which has decided to address itself in priority to consumers who both relish exclusivity and are concerned about allergic reactions to perfume. As real and imagined allergies (remember the mold allergy scare several years back?) are becoming more and more widespread and IFRA is sorting through all the potential allergens to be taken out of perfumers' palettes, Parfums Nicolas Danila decided to ride the wave of change instead of looking towards the past.
The label debuts with a collection of seven perfumes inspired by seven types of gardens from around the world called Les Jardins d'Aladin which includes: Les Jardins Aborigènes, Les Jardins Amazoniens, Les Jardins Asiatiques, Les Jardins Polynésiens, Les Jardins Amérindiens, Les Jardins Arabes, Les Jardins Européens.
The perfumes were designed by company Charabot and composed by several of their noses including Laure Jacquet...
Kat Von D Saint & Sinner (2009): Nice Girl in Tattoos {Perfume Reviews} {New Fragrances} {Celebrity Scents}
Saint and Sinner are the two new perfumes by "indie" brand Kat Von D for Sephora (the name is short for founder's name Katherine von Drachenberg -- the von Drachenbergs have a family castle in Germany that would look outstanding in a Gothic vampire story). The tattoo artist of TV-reality-show-Miami-and-L.A.-Ink fame also came up with a makeup collection that was on the shelves a little earlier than the scents. I had watched several shows of one of the city-based Ink series once but could not remember the Kat von D so it was an innocent approach to the beauty counter on my part.
I then became very interested in the brand, because, frankly, her lipsticks are of superior quality, let's not mince our (kind) words here. Her Stiletto, a beautiful, perfect red-orange, was like a beacon of luminous red when I first set my eyes upon it and later just felt like foie-gras for the lips (it's a compliment). Sensing the demanding standards and beauty smarts of the belle, this made me hopeful for her, then, upcoming fragrances.
They could only be interesting, was my belief, unless she had been completely hijacked by cynical fragrance developers (insert a cartoon strip here as the whole brand atmosphere has a gentle counter-culture and rebellious side to it) and did not know a thing about perfume. The queen of tattoos did mention her vast beauty closet where everything is organized by product and color, but no perfume collection. She also said that she knew a thing or two about lipstick because she virtually possesses them all, the Chanels, Diors etc. When time came to spring into action, she turned easily into a lipstick critic...
Anna Sui Rock Me! (2009): Fronted by Agyness Deyn {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Designer Anna Sui launched her latest perfume on September 17, 2009 called Rock Me!. The face for the fragrance is model Agyness Deyn who plays the role of a candied-colored, brooding rocker with an obsession for black and creamy-neon pinks and purples.
Deyn can also be seen these days on the bottle of the special edition of Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame titled Pop Rock, which actually looks pretty cool in person. It seems like the Ma Dame success might have inspired this look for Anna Sui...
British designer John Richmond has launched his debut fragrance simply called John RICHMOND. The idea behind the scent is to wear it like an accessory and to emphasize this point, a silver-plated lock bracelet is found in each package because you use a lock to keep everything that is precious to you. About Richmond's fashion style, we learn that,
"John Richmond is a celebration of the energy, creativity and unpredictability of youth and street culture. Each line is heavily influenced by musical movements, blended with "street chic", John's own irreverent style and luxurious precision. These fundamental elements of the philosophy have led to the iconic slogans "Destroy, Disorientate, Disorder", "Diamond Dog" and "Eat Cake". John's close ties with the music industry have led him to dress stars such as Madonna, Mick Jagger and Annie Lennox. "...
Mariah Carey Forever (2009): The Lady is a Gardenia {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Forever by Mariah Carey is the newest fragrance release by the pop singer who is also preparing to launch a new album, Memoirs of an Imperfect Angel on September 29, 2009. You will also be able to see her in Lee Daniels's movie Precious based on the novel Push by Sapphire this November. In it she appears virtually without makeup and unadorned to play her role as a caring and frumpy social worker.
As the artist already stated when her second fragrance Luscious Pink was launched and in what sounds like a leitmotiv that she likes to rehash, Forever, like Luscious Pink "...reflects where I am in my life now." This appears to be her most natural and no-brainer way to relate to perfume as well as a non-too committal existential quote. No need to bring up aesthetics or anything really complicated like that but what it is saying in the end is that personal meaning is too complicated to be adequately explained. The mystery of Carey's personality and her perfume can thus be equally preserved except that the name Forever seems to allude to her marriage to Nick Cannon as well as her relationship with her fans.
From her debut fragrance M to the extrait version M Gold, to Luscious Pink and now Forever, Mariah Carey's perfumes like her ballads seemingly deliver pages torn out from her diary, or yours for that matter. It is a minimally honest proposition for this type of perfumery creation. One of the critiques plaguing the genre or marketing category -- some will prefer to say -- of the celebrity perfume is that they are sheer mercantile Trojan horses without any soul to them nor a drop actually of the personality of the celeb that gave her or his name to a perfume.
The initial M however was built around some of her favorite smells, like the meeting of roasted marshmallows and sea air and incense from Morocco. Who would want to blend that if not for her? Carey's perfumes target her fans and she does not seem to be shy about letting out some particles of her intimate memories through the evocation of collaged impressions from the past...
Kenzo launched a new variation on a perfume inspired by this most eloquent source of inspiration, the non-existent, imaginary scent of a red poppy.
FlowerbyKenzo Essentielle is said to be a streamlined and essentialized version of Flower by Kenzo "...made with ingredients of uncompromising quality", that is with absolutes. It was created by perfumer François Demachy of LVMH....
Penhaligon's Amaranthine (2009): "A Corrupted Floral Oriental" {New Perfume}
British perfume house Penhaligons will release a new perfume from October 12, 2009 called Amaranthine. The name's meaning is interesting and multifaceted. In this case it refers to a particular shade of red-purple color as the limited-edition crystal bottle reveals, but more poetically it would also be an allusion to the myth of an imaginary flower that never wilts and is forever beautiful.
The tag line, I note, is: "Amaranthine: the daring new fragrance from Penhaligon's." It might not struck you as very original. Like for the Anthology collection issued last summer, the composition was entrusted to perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour who normally is attached to the house of L'Artisan Parfumeur (See his two other opuses coming out his fall, Havana Vanille and Al Oudh). The reason I pause when I see the word "daring" here is because beyond what may appear to be standard marketing spiel, this is exactly the vibration that emanated from the Anthology series, one that I did not expect to experience in a Penhaligons's offering, to that extent at least although their compositions like Hammam Bouquet can be bold, but still classic...
Odin 01 Nomad, 02 Owari, 03 Century (2009) {New Fragrances}
Manhattan-based men's retailer Odin will launch a collection of three unisex fragrances called 01 Nomad, 02 Owari, 03 Century in late October 2009. The scents were developed with perfume company Drom.
01 aka Nomad has notes of
juniper berries, Himalayan cedar leaves, bergamot, palmarosa, Indian black pepper, creamy heliotrope, tonka bean,
West Indian sandalwood and grey musk...
Juliette Has a Gun Calamity J (2009): Fronted by a Naked Lou Doillon: "A Masculine Scent for Women" {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Juliette Has a Gun is preparing to launch a new fragrance called Calamity J. Funny, because this time the confidential fragrance label is turning to French star power by hiring the daughter of popular actress Jane Birkin and movie director Jacques Doillon, Lou Doillon. When you say "Jane" in France, you don't think of Calamity Jane but rather of Jane Birkin, the ex-wife of singer Serge Gainsbourg, or maybe Jane Fonda too, the ex-wife of Vadim. It may also conjure up Jane, the companion of Tarzan.
Lou Doillon has a rocker charm that will go well with the gun-smoking, hold-no-barrels-in-the-domain-of-seduction imagery of the perfume house. In fact, the advert shows a bare-chested Lou photographed by Sonia Sieff, a sight that will probably fly better with the authorities in France than in some other countries. I would not have noticed it so much if the thought that a niche perfume house was not only taking the celebs route but on top of that counting on the eternal appeal of nakedness to boost its sales, made me smile. Niche fragrance houses are deemed purists and in principle destined to fulfill more than others the difficult mission of calling attention mainly to the jus itself.
Another twist is that Calamity J is dubbed "a masculine for women" -- not a "unisex" mind you, what an ugly-fuggly word obviously -- in the sense, for founder Romano Ricci, that it rests upon a patchouli-musk accord evocative of "the perfume of a dandy, masculine yet sophisticated." The dandy is quintessentially masculine but can teach a thing or two to women in his field, elegance...
L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh (2009): More Notes, More News {New Perfume}
After an initial post about the upcoming Al Oudh by L'Artisan Parfumeur, I have received further news regarding the atmosphere of the perfume and more detailing of its notes.
The composition goes all the way in the direction of an intense evocation of the riches of the Orient, a theme that has fascinated Europeans since they came into contact with the spices, foods, incense, scents and flavors of the Arabian world. See also Amouage Epic this fall for a similar vein of inspiration. Here we have the taste of dates, the smoke of incense, the effluvia of African civet, the preciosity of saffron,...
Bath & Body Works P.S. I Love You (2009) -- The Love Trend {New Perfume} {Trend Alert}
Trend Alert: Fragrances' Semantic Love Affair with Love in the Fall of 2009
Bath and Body Works have added a new scent to their Signature Collection called P.S. I Love You.
Love is apparently in the air this fall because you can also expect to have to decide if you prefer this perfume or the upcoming Love Etc...by The Body Shop. A bit more up-market, you will have further the option of an In The Mood for Love by Gianfranco Ferre or Idylle by Guerlain which translated into English means Love Affair. JLo is also tapping into our sentimental selves with My Glow (that of fulfilled motherhood). Last spring we had a Love by Nina. This summer there was L'Amoureux by D&G. More subtly put, we also have L'Humaniste by Frapin this autumn that is, the lover of mankind...
Beyonce & Coty Partner to Create Fragrance in 2010 {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
Confirming a rumor that had been circulating for a while on the wires, Coty have announced today that they signed a deal with singer Beyonce to launch her very first signature perfume in 2010 (US in the spring, the rest of the world in the fall according to WWD). Beyonce was on perfume ads before as she was the face of Tommy Hilfiger True Star Fragrance and the spokesperson for Emporio Armani Diamonds for Her, but this is a step-up. Hubby Jay-Z is also a celebrity-fragrance developer who has created a line of Rocawear scents.
The main accord in the upcoming release (name undisclosed) is obviously Beyonce's "mega-watt aura" as the Coty company specializing in celebs juices put it...
MAC have launched a new limited-edition scent out for fall and winter 2009 called Asphalt Flower. Apparently it could just as well have been named Killer Scent. It's small in size, but sounds really concentrated and mmm... smoky-eyed (?), with a mix of violet/iris, ylang, patch, MAC's vanilla and incense....
Are you looking for a chic Italian perfume signature? Borsalino Fleurie pour Elle is the second feminine perfume to be created by the brand in collaboration with Venetian house Mavive. The fragrance is meant for "the woman who knows how to assert her personality without renouncing her sense of class."
The "young and effervescent" Eau de Toilette has top notes of Calabrian bergamot, Italian lemon, and Tunisian neroli; heart notes are Indian jasmine, ylang from Madagascar; base notes are Indonesian patchouli, Moroccan amber, white musk an Iris from Florence.
As I remarked previously, and early on, this year is seeing a veritable avalanche of oudh or oud, or again aloeswood or agarwood perfumes. Clearly, the perfume world is no different than the world of fashion and it loves trends. Although 2009 is rather pluralistic, with several smaller trends developing, the oud one is taking on the proportions of a tsunami...in a fragrance bottle.
The latest to date is L'Artisan Parfumeur Al Oudh which takes on a marked Arabized flavor with not only the name but the flacon as well which is decorated in an arabesque style like the porticoes of a courtyard or the mosaic motif in a mosque. The perfume was composed by resident-nose Bertrand Duchaufour who sought original inspiration for the scent by going to a desert in the Arabian peninsula, just like he went to Panama for Fleur de Liane...
Editions de Parfums Fleurs Mecaniques, Esquisses et Matieres (2009) {New Perfumes}
Frederic Malle, the founder and editor of Parisian perfume houseEditions de Parfums (he is about to open a stand-alone store on Madison Avenue in New York City) is attempting to push the limits of artistry and science regarding the conception of cutting-edge home fragrance in the beginning of the 21st century. With his soon-to-be-launched new ambitious project, which is two-fold, called Fleurs Mécaniques and Esprits et Matières he has been exploring the future of ambient perfume with the help of three famous parfumeurs-compositeurs.
The line between functional fragrance and fine fragrance has admittedly become blurrier in the two last years, with more and more luxury perfumes hinting at the scent of cosmetics and laundromat musks while on the other hand laundry detergents borrow more and more from the complexity of fine fragrance compositions as well as their names. Indeed, now you may happen on liquid detergents that do not hesitate to call themselves Nuits Orientales or Nuit Etoilée and they smell the part a bit more. A nose like Francis Kurkdjian has recently insisted his initial experience as a functional perfumer be integrated into his work as a fine perfumer with Aqua Universalis, by his own brand Maison Francis Kurkdjian, which overlaps the boundaries. In this context, Frédéric Malle wants to elevate home fragrance to the status of a recognized art form bearing the signature of an artist,
"In this new adventure, I have chosen to work with perfumers or noses specialized in fine fragrances, as opposed to those in functional fragrance who would normally work on home fragrances. I imagine that this is a reaction to those products designed to "chase away bad odors" which have so oppressively invaded our lives. In staying true to our goal of creating uncompromised fragrances, we were determined to adapt the leading principles of alcohol-based fine fragrances to completely new uses and methods of diffusion for home fragrances. "
Carlos Benaïm, Dominique Ropion, and Sophia Grojsman have been called upon to create a library of carefully-studied scents which builds upon the work of Dr. Braja Mookehrjee on headspace technology as well as the data the scientist accumulated himself over the decades.
This is not the first time that Malle turns to the research conducted by Mookerjee as Carnal Flower was created using his data, which made it possible for the composition to be both very natural-smelling and atmospheric.
Fleurs Mécaniques (Mechanical Flowers) is a library of 5 floral fragrances so far which will be diffused via a special 11 cm red box (seen above and below) which recharges like a cell phone called the Fleur Mécanique diffuser...
A.P.C. Sustain (2009): Inspired by Ray Davies's "Waterloo sunset" {New Perfume}
Sustain by APC is a new total-concept perfume inspired by Ray Davies's song Waterloo Sunset. The composition contains 12 essential oils to allude to the 12 string guitar used to play the song. The wooden packaging is the reproduction of the numerical image of that same song. The name was chosen to refer to the pedal that prolongs a musical accord. Finally, in this intertwining of perfume and music, one of the ideas for the scent was to express "...the perception of the smell of a guitar case --lined in bright velvet-- in which rose petals would have been scattered."
The scent was introduced on September 10, 2009. Only 300 copies have been released worldwide.
Jean Touitou, the founder of fashion label A.P.C. did not even like
perfume in the first place. But then impromptu fell hard for the line of fragrances created
by LA-based perfumer Haley Alexander van Oosten. Her wooden
packaging was a big part of the charm...
Fashion label BCBG will launch a new perfume in November 2009 called Within. It was created by American independent perfumer Sarah Horowitz-Thran whose scent, Light, happened to be a favorite of co-founder Lubov Azria, Max Azria's wife. So she asked the California-based nose to come up with a scent that would match and accessorize BCBG dresses. Lubov Azria said,
"I love the idea of having a woman come into a store and everything is
available to her. If she is truly a BCBG customer, there is a dress for
her and a perfume that finishes her look." ...
The Azria family at Fashion Week, NYC, Sept 10, 2009 (Joyce on the right)
Brooks Brothers Black Fleece for Men & Women (2009) {New Fragrances}
Brooks Brothers will launch a new duo of perfumes this Saturday September 12th 2009 called Black Fleece for Men (EDT) and for Women (EDP). If you thought that the brand was trying to be more democratic and issuing a recession-themed polar-fleece scented duetto, you would be mistaken. Either you go down-market or up-market to counteract the economic doldrums and Brooks Brothers have decided to go for the prestige option...
The Body Shop will release a new fragrance this fall called Love Etc... inspired like some of their recent beauty products by ethical concerns and social projects. The scent was created by perfumerDominique Ropion working together with the in-house team.
"We named our new fragrance Love Etc. since love is a powerful force for good. It can take all different shapes and exist between between everyone! But love is also something personal. It's what you MAKE it. What does the "etc" mean to you?"...
Poo-Pourri Before-You-Go Bathroom Sprays: Poo-Pourri Original, Royal Flush, heavenSCENT, No2 & the latest, Organic Nature's Call {Spotlight on a Brand} {New Perfume}
Poo-Pourri is a quirky -- well, maybe not so quirky since their products seem to correspond to a profound need and to tap into an emotional well -- deodorizer label that specializes in attacking those odors that are commonly thought to be both obnoxious and embarrassing. One thing you can say about them is that they are not afraid of venturing where few before them have treaded. Thus they target soiled diapers, smelly pets, stale cars and most of all they propose a collection of spray scents for those who are hyper-conscious about leaving a scatological trail behind them in shared bathroom spaces. Their eloquently-named Before-You-Go bathroom sprays promise to "...create a film on the surface of the water, trapping odor at its source."...
Dior will Release a New Eau-de-Parfum Twist on Diorissimo (2009) {New Perfume}
One of the big perfume news this fall is that Dior is going to release an Eau-de-Parfum version of the classic Diorissimo created by Edmond Roudnitska in 1956. The composition has experienced the vagaries of existence by undergoing a series of reformulations over the years. As I noted elsewhere, the latest form of Diorissimo Eau de Toilette has become more of a jasmine perfume than the pure lily-of-the-valley scent it used to be. I have to interject that Dior Parfums was very forthcoming about telling the truth about these non-publicized changes when asked about them by TSS last spring. I am glad that I will be able to talk about the past, the present and the future with this new version....
All The Perfumes by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: A Diverse, Creative Catalog: Aqua Universalis, Les Colognes, Lumiere Noire, APOM, Les Bulles d'Agathe... {New Fragrances}
We have the skinny on the complete catalog of fragrances of the new Parisian perfume house established by nose Francis Kurkdjian baptized Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The flagship store opened yesterday 5, rue d'Alger, 75001 Paris.
But first, here is what the perfumer had to say to explain the concept of what a "house" is to him,
J'ai choisi d'apposer le
mot Maison devant mon pa-
tronyme. Ce n'est pas un
effet de style, mais une ma-
nière d'exprimer ce que
je ressens ; une maison a une
âme et une histoire, elle
a ses habitants, ses amis et
aussi ses enfants. Toutes
ces émotions qui m'habitent
sont réunies sous ce même
mot et animées par un
même rêve : faire de mes
grands bonheurs les petits
plaisirs des autres.
"I have chosen to put the word Maison next to my family name. This is not meant to be a stylistic effect but is a way of expressing what I feel. A house has a soul and a history, it has its dwellers, friends and also its children. All these emotions that are contained in me are gathered under this same name and brought to life by the same dream: to turn my great moments of happiness into the small pleasures of others"...
Parfums de Nicolai Patchouli Homme (2009): More News {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
Parfums de Nicolaï introduced their new masculine fragrance called Patchouli Homme yesterday. You can read an earlier teaser about the cologne here.
Patchouli Homme is based on a patchouli-rose accord and is launched with the tag line "Roses for men, why not!". As perfumer Patricia de Nicolaï said,
"Patchouli oil is a raw material of great importance in the perfumer's palette. It plays as first violin in the orchestra. Patchouli has many facets. There is always more to discover its damp, wet, mossy, dry, almost dusty earthiness. It evokes power and depth." ...
D&G Anthology Welcomes 11 La Force (2009) {New Perfume}
The D & G Anthology perfume collection which was launched this summer under the younger label of Dolce & Gabbana offers scents that are each illustrative of a tarot card. So far the launch comprised an initial quintet with 1 Le Bateleur, 3 L'Impératrice, 6 L'Amoureux, 10 La Roue de la Fortune and 18 La Lune...
Dolce & Gabbana just launched their Anthology perfume collection under the D&G label but they are not forgetting their The-One franchise with an upcoming launch based around the idea of a rose perfume. The image of the perfume will be embodied by their favorite feminine beauty icon, Scarlett Johansson, who was made to look like a total strawberry blonde to go with the fragrance and the strawberries she is eating in the commercial. Johansson is also the face of their new cosmetics line. Rose The One will debut on August 30, 2009 exclusively at Saks before being more widely distributed from October 1.
About the choice of Johansson,
"It's a declaration of love for Scarlett," explained Dolce about
choosing Johansson for the Rose The One's campaign. "If we could do
everything with Scarlett we would, because she is the person that
represents actual femininity most in this world."
Filmed in a
Los Angeles studio, the commercial depicts Johansson in a custom-made,
curve-hugging Dolce & Gabbana rose pink tulle dress, lounging on a
bed in a boudoir, eating strawberries and recounting a story about a
past love...
Britney Spears Circus Fantasy (2009): "Welcome the Ringleader" {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}
Britney Spears will release a new fragrance in August 2009 called Circus Fantasy in reference to her current show tour and her Fantasy portfolio developed with Elizabeth Arden. It comes right after Hidden Fantasy. The singer already managed to insert the name and vaunt its allure in a joke on the Letterman Show in the Top-Ten segment the other night (see after the jump).
Luscious fruits, tempting
florals and creamy musks capture the magical atmosphere of the show
with a colorful illusion of fun, sexiness and glamour...
Esteban Esprit de The Le Bain (2009) {New Perfume}
Esteban is proposing a new fragrance called Esprit de Thé (Spirit of Tea) in their Le Bain (The Bath) collection which is usually a charming and laid-back library of scents. In 2006, there was a little commotion over Sensuelle Russie which was a more complex brew than expected.
This year we have a musky-floral eau de toilette centering on pure green tea while resting on a floral heart and a woody base. There are so many tea scents nowadays that it would be surprising if this composition brought a particular, noteworthy nuance to the table, but who knows?
Thierry Mugler is not making wine or cognac (yet) but he is turning perfume into a heir to the great traditions of liqueur-making by borrowing and adapting centuries-old methods of aging. One empirical conundrum was finding the right type of wood to impart desirable notes to the parfum of La Part des Anges, the first scent that was made using this technique. Now, Thierry Mugler is offering Alien and Angel in Liqueur de Parfum...
Independent French niche perfumery L'Atelier Bohême has released three new perfumes. They are called Cyclamen, Tiare Moana, and Rhizomes and were created by perfumer and brand owner Crystelle Darchicourt (see interview in French and English)...
Carven "Le" Vetiver Re-Edition (1957/2009): Back to the Vetiver Roots {New Perfume}
The fashion house of Carvenwhich gave in the past the legendary perfume names of Ma Griffe (1946) and Vétiver (1957) will resurrect an authentic version of the classic 1950s men's Vétiver based on the original formula which is now called Le Vétiver, The Vetiver meaning the famous one, the real one, to distinguish it from less qualitative versions still floating about in the market. Carven Vétiver was the first French mainstream vetiver-based masculine fragrance, before Givenchy Vétiver (1059) and Guerlain Vétiver (1961)...
Azzaro will release a new twist on its best-selling classic cologne Azzaro for Men (1978) called Azzaro Elixir for Men. The new version is said to keep the fresh fougère/fern accord but to have supplemented it with warm oriental notes to emphasize the sensuality and mystery of the original fragrance...
Donna Karan will launch a new, "enhanced" luxurious edition of the American classic, Cashmere Mist. The perfume was created 15 years ago by popular demand and is directly inspired by the scent of Donna Karan's bath and body line at the time. People reportedly just fell in love with the scent, would stop her on the street, write to the brand to request a personal perfume be developed from the bath and body products, and so Cashmere Mist was born. As its name indicates it is also based on the idea of reproducing the sensation of wearing cashmere wool on bare skin, Donna Karan's favorite material. 15 years later, the perfume is the fourth best-selling fragrance in America according to NPD...
Bath & Body Works Ile de Tahiti Coconut Vanille & Tiare Flower (2009): Beachy Breeze & Fancy Molecules {New Perfumes}
Bath & Body Works are extremely prolific and they are right to be so because the whole idea behind their lines is to play with scents and products without thinking too hard about your finances. From the brand come two new perfumes inspired by the island of Tahiti, Coconut Vanille and Tiare Flower in the collection Ile de Tahiti.
Coconut Vanille is described as a beach scent,
Beach in a bottle. The tropical scents of Coconut and Bamboo
float within White Iris and Musk, transporting the senses and the
imagination. Getaway is now everyday...
Rubino Cosmetics Cosmo (2009): Inspired by Cuba {New Perfume}
After Shock comes Cosmo, another perfume by Italian cosmetics brand Rubino Cosmetics whose star ingredient is precious ruby dust. Cosmo is said to be inspired by Cuba. I cannot resist the temptation of drawing a parallel with Guerlain Homme inspired by a Mojito cocktail tasted in a Cuban bar, Narciso Rodriguez Essence, a twist on a perfume first smelled in Cuba by Rodriguez, and L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille also taking inspiration from the same locale...
This fall, Prada will add a new feminine amber fragrance to its library of ambery scents which started with Prada in 2004. L'Eau Ambrée (lit. Ambery Water) is the new one to appear in September 2009. It was composed by Daniela Andrier of Givaudan who has been unofficially acting as a kind of in-house nose for the brand. L'Eau Ambrée is based on a main vertical accord of lemon, wild rose and amber...
To celebrate the 25th anniversary of Parfums Ted Lapidus, the brand is launching a men's fragrance called BlackSoul dedicated to the "neo-dandy who cultivates elegance and sophistication in the minutest details." The scent is further described as an "olfactory ambush", that is, impossible to resist, being built around three distinct main accords that indeed sound like honey traps...
Opus Oils Afraid of the Dark Collection (2009): Halloween in August
California-based perfume label Opus Oils is releasing a new collection of perfumes called Afraid of the Dark on the occasion of Vampire-Con "the world's first convention devoted to vam-pop culture." The limited-edition collection includes Vamp, Ode de Vampyre, Lady Death, and Charlie No.5. They were created by perfumer Kendra Hart...
Christina Aguilera By Night (2009): Inspired by the Color Red {New Perfume}
Singer Christina Aguilera will release a new flanker to her 2007 eponymous perfume called By Night. Last year she introduced another fragrance titled Inspire. Christina Aguilera By Night is said to be inspired by the color red. The singer explained why she chose it,
Red is THE color. It is unparalleled in its seductiveness and femininity. This is the reason why I have selected it for this perfume. Red stands for passion and warmth, red allows a woman to appear sexy to others and to feel sexy to herself...
Nanette Lepore will launch a new, more "grown-up" fragrance in September called Nanette which is meant to be the signature perfume of the brand. It was developed by Elizabeth Arden and created by perfumer Anne Flipo of IFF. The composition evolves around floral, ambery and woody notes and is said to have an "original" personality. The designer said,
"My fashion has evolved
over the years, and so have I. I wanted to create a fragrance which
symbolizes my current design aesthetic. This fragrance is intended to
be the signature Nanette Lepore scent -- it's the one I will still be
putting on, over and over, next year and the year after that."...
Maison Francis Kurkdjian Lumiere Noire pour Femme (2009): First Look {New Perfume - New House}
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, the creator of MaDame, Le Mâle, Fleur du Mâle, Rose Barbare and numerous other fragrances for the wider market announced at the end of last year that he was going to open his own perfume house. He explained that,
"It's a [fragrance] house that has its
owner and friends, but not a brand...
Guerlain will follow up on their masculine launch from last year, Homme, with Homme Intense on September 1, 2009. While the original fragrance is an eau de toilette, the new one is an intensified version at an eau de parfum concentration presented as a more sensual take on the Mojito accord. Reading from the list of notes it appears that patchouli was added as a dominant note...
Swedish brand Byredo has launched a new perfume called Blanche (White). It is their 8th fragrance to date. Here the color white is approached as epitomizing the essence of a person who remains unnamed. The perfume is dedicated to her, is meant to be worn by her, was inspired by her.
"Sun filters through morning fresh air, through breezy linen curtains; it washes mutedly over the room, across the pale wood floors, onto her bare shoulder; it brushes her silhouette. A young child's laughter echoes from the other room. The day is new. And all is before us."...
La Prairie Life Threads: Silver, Gold, Platinum (2009) {New Perfumes}
Swiss cosmetics brand La Prairie which has developed a successful perfume line with Silver Rain has decided to launch a new collection inspired by the concept of life seen as a precious tapestry. The new trio is called Silver, Gold and Platinum and wishes to be a life-affirming set of scents.
"We asked ourselves how we could tie ourselves to our customers in the
long-term, especially in a tough environment," said Lynne Florio,
president of La Prairie Inc. "We realized that the La Prairie woman
leads a multifaceted life and plays a lot of roles. Her life
experiences weave together like threads to form her life tapestry -- and
were inspired to create three scents which express that concept. We're
also learning that our ties with her are tight -- she may be slowing her
purchases down a little, but she hasn't stopped buying."...
Bebe Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Fragrance} + Launch Party Pictures with Francis Kurkdjian & Co
Fashion label Bebe founded by Manny Mashouf will launch its third fragrance called Bebe Eau de Parfum on August 20, 2009 in the US market following To Be (1996) and Bebe Perfume (2001). A greater advertising effort will be carried out this time around according to WWD to avoid repeating the lack of exposure given to Bebe Perfume which was popular but only to a restrained circle. The first Bebe To Be fragrance is also now recognized as a faux pas in that its name was too close to CK Be. Hopes are up.
"The target audience for the scent ranges from 18- to 34-year-olds, with
a "sweet spot" at 24, said Spinn. "They are hip, sexy, cool and
romantically playful,"...
After launching Zen (2007) (see also here), then Zen White (2009), Shiseido is adding a masculine flanker to the line this time with Zen for Men. The composition is described as being woody with exotic fruity accents and a lingering musky base.
Fruits have become the new hip, metrosexual note in mainstream masculine perfumery so the trend continues with this fragrance...
Kate Moss Vintage (2009): The Ad, The Notes {New Perfume}
One of the most anticipated celebs scents this fall is Vintage by Kate Moss, the fourth fragrance launch for the top model. Vintage has been in the news for a while (see here and here), but now come the more concrete details.
The scent is said to be a fruity-floral oriental with powdery and fresh facets...
As we discussed previously, Idylle is the next big Guerlain launch for women. It is not quite out yet as the official date of release is September 14, 2009 but the internet as always very indiscreet has made sure everyone caught glimpses of the upcoming perfume. Today WWD is offering a more "official" report yet still withholding the ad visual which can be seen on numerous sites on the net as well as a comprehensive list of notes.
Here is what we are authorized to know, today. I excerpted some details that are sort of interesting to retain from a historic perspective beyond the marketing speak of Idylle being aimed at all women and young women in particular...
Ferre In the Mood for Love (2009): Cinematic Ring {New Perfume}
Gianfranco Ferré will launch a new perfume this fall which already comes announced with a certain glam, cinematic ring to it by referencing the cult movie by Wong Kar-wai In The Mood for Love although the only quotes available about the project so far are more business-like in tone rather than cultural. It is also, more culturally put again, the latest jus by perfumer Maurice Roucel of Symrise who as could be expected has inserted his famous magnolia note in the composition. I don't know if the name of the perfume goes beyond a very general familiar-sounding reference to the movie but in Chinese it is originally titled The Time of Flowers. Meanwhile we mostly get a marketing-angle explanation,
"From its joyful title, modern flacon, sunny advertising campaign and
fresh juice, the approach with this scent just radiates a positive
attitude and prestige,"...
Des Filles a la Vanille Musc Venitien, Patchouli Intime Secret, Patchouli Tendre Soupir, Quelqu'un m'a dit Je T'aime, Vanilla Girls, Vanilla Intime Secret (2009) {New Perfumes}
Des Filles à la Vanille, a perfume and clothing brand located in the heart of Saint Germain des Prés in Paris has launched 6 new fragrances.
When you step into one of their whimsical boutiques it feels like there are scads of fragrance bottles waiting to be sampled. The only problem is to choose from the selection which is plentiful enough to feel like you will need to wade your way through the offerings. Moreover, the scents are offered in both eau de toilette and eau de parfum versions so you will have to sort out the right concentration too...
Avril Lavigne Black Star (2009): More News {New Perfume} {Celebrity Scent}
As previously announced with the early discovery of the story board for the commercial, singer Avril Lavigne has started to introduce her debut fragrance, Black Star. It will progressively roll out to different European countries. The UK will see the launch in 25 days.
The perfume is described as a floral oriental by Douglas perfumery although Lavigne herself preferred to stress that it is very fruity and floral by pointing out a "high note" of pink hibiscus, a heart of plum and some chocolate...
Bond No.9 Perfume (2009): 10th Anniversary Celebration {New Fragrance}
This November 2009, Bond No. 9 will release a special fragrance to celebrate the 10th anniversary of the brand consecrated to the New York cityscape. Emblematically called Bond No. 9 Perfume it is also said to be founder Laurice Rahme's personal caprice as her scent will feature notes she favors and those will be limited to four only, from top to bottom...
Juicy Couture Couture Couture (2009): Still More News + the Ad {New Perfume}
After two posts about the new Couture Couture, here is part 3: The Ad, with some further quotes and details. You were able to get a good look at the bottle here which is as always a strong point for the brand and people who appreciate all things girly with a little bit of flamboyance. Co-founder Skaist-Levy explained her position on perfume packaging,
"I always judge a book by its cover with fragrances -- the packaging has to be outstanding."...
Parfums de Nicolaï Patchouli Homme (2009) {New Perfume}
Parfums de Nicolaï (which I always feel tempted to replace with "Patricia de Nicolaï" after the name of the co-founder and nose for the brand) will launch a new masculine fragrance come September 2009. The Eau de Toilette is called Patchouli Homme and is described by the author herself in an interview given to Osmoz...
The ad features models Alexis Papa and Alyssa Miller
Davidoff, who once was better known for their cigarettes,will release a new flanker to their now classic Cool Water (1988) called Hot Water. There have been other flankers in the past but the name this time is an indication of a direct opposition and contrast.
Caroline Epuran d'Esneval, vice president of marketing for Davidoff at Coty Prestige said,
"Cool Water is about a fresh sensation, whereas Hot Water is about intense and sensual ardent physical passion," "Both depict a strong and powerful masculinity."...
Italian beauty brand Rubino Cosmetics which bases its skin-care efficiency on the properties expounded on by lithotherapy has launched a perfume called Shock.
To match the color of the central ingredient used in their skincare and makeup line, ruby powder, as well as the black packaging of the brand, the perfume's identity is marked by a dramatic black-and-red visual code...
French niche perfumery Divine with its roots on the Emerald Coast in Brittany has launched its ninth perfume called Eau Divine. It is presented as a "new eau de parfum [which] unites in symbiosis man and woman aroundthe first unisex fragrance for the brand". Like for Annick Goutal, special care has been taken packaging-wise to respect feminine and masculine sensibilities by offering two different shapes of flacons.
As its name indicates, Eau Divine aims for a lighter, more transparent texture than usual; it is not a flanker to the debut fragrance Divine but a reference to the house's name...
Lalique Encre Noire pour Elle (2009) {New Fragrance}
After Encre Noire (2006), a masculine perfume that managed to attract a special level of "niche" attention, Lalique is releasing a feminine counterpart to the original vetiver scent "for the woman who has been until now borrowing Encre Noire from her man" demonstrating once more the versatility of the vetiver note and its lure to women after Vetiver by Guerlain which was also a hit among them and much later called for a separate feminine version...
Italian designer Laura Biagiotti has introduced a new perfume companion to the original Laura (1994) 15 years later called Laura Rosé as in an allusion to sparkling pink champagne or rosé wine. Described as a floral perfume, the composition features gourmet and gourmand notes around a rose note...
Tous in Heaven Her & Tous in Heaven Him (2009) {New Fragrances}
"Two fragrances, one spirit", with this tag line, Tous has launched a duo of perfumes targeting adolescents and young persons called Tous in Heaven Her and Tous in Heaven Him which delineate "the territory of the Tous community, a community of free spirits who like to transcend rules and are definitely non-conformists!"
Tous in Heaven Her is described as being "savagely feminine"...
Dior will introduce a new, darker, and more intense version of the instantly recognizable men's classic Fahrenheit originally launched in 1988; the new fragrance is called Fahrenheit Absolute. It will be a flanker to both the original floral for men and to a more recent 2007 addition, Fahrenheit 32.
The image that inspires the composition is that of a man departing for an adventure at the end of the earth while walking on magma in fusion...
Faith Hill Parfums (2009): More News {New Perfume}
Country singer Faith Hill says she feels beautiful in the scent she created with Coty. As previously announced, this fall Faith Hill, her debut signature perfume will be launched at mass retailers. The singer hopes this is only the beginning of her venture into the world of fragrances under her own label "Faith Hill Parfums." Since her husband Tim McGraw is also working with Coty on his own portfolio of colognes, a marital duo might be in the works in the future.
Celebrity fragrances imply different levels of involvement on the part of the people putting their names on the bottles of scent. In this case, it appears that Faith Hill took a resolutely hands-on approach as she underlined that she could not imagine her name being on a scent that she did not create (with the creative and technical help of perfumer Caroline Sabas of Givaudan)...
Viktor & Rolf Eau Mega (2009): More News {New Perfume}
As written about previouslyViktor & Rolf have come up with the idea of a perfume for the superwoman with Eau Mega. The ad which has now been released features model Raquel Zimmermann. It was shot by Inez van Lamsweerde and Vinoodh Matadin. The styling is reminiscent of the ad for Absynthe by Avon in which a big swath of green muslin unfurls. Here it is meant to convey the message that you can be a bigger you by spritzing on some perfume,
"We wanted to express this feeling of 'megafying' yourself, like when
you use this fragrance, you become the best, biggest megaversion of
yourself, whoever you are,"...
The Body Shop White Musk Midnight Iris - Iris de Minuit (2009) {New Perfume}
The Body Shop will launch a new limited-edition perfume in its White Musk collection in September 2009 called White Musk Midnight Iris. Described as being warm, luxurious and floral, the perfume opens on
notes of bergamot and water lily, segues into a heart of lily of the
valley, muscatel sage and iris before lingering on with notes of musk,
sandalwood and tonka.
White Musk® Midnight Iris,
Eau de Toilette, ca. 15,00 Euro*
Chiffon Sheer Body Mist, ca. 10,00 Euro*
Velvet Shimmer Body Lotion, ca. 13,00 Euro*
Sumptuous Silk Shower Gel, ca. 7,00 Euro*
Enjoy England By George! (2009): A Symphony of the Nation's Most Evocative Smells {New Perfume}
Tourism authority Visit England has launched a signature perfume called By George! as part of their Enjoy England campaign meant to promote domestic tourism with ideas of short getaways. The fragrance will remain a bit of a dream really as it is not meant to be a commercial venture but a limited-edition launch for a promotional giveaway purpose only.
The name of the perfume is the shortened modern version of the old English battle cry: "God for Harry, England and St George!". The design on the bottle looks like a stylized cross of St George turned into a flower.
The perfume actually sounds quite attractive. The composition makes the point that every English person is a gardener at heart.
"The heart of the fragrance takes a journey through an English seaside
garden with salty sea air notes mingling with damp earth, garden mint,
carrots and beetroots and freshly cut grass!"
Lili Bermuda Somers, Petals, South Water (2009): Historic Bermuda {New Fragrances}
To celebrate the 400th anniversary of Bermuda, local fragrance house Lili Bermuda first established in 1928 as The Bermuda Perfumery has released a collection of three perfumes called Somers, Petals and South Water. Each scent commemorates "...a different time in the Island's history since it's beginning."
Somers, a men's fragrance named in honor of Sir George Somers (1554-1610) who established the first settlement in Bermuda, is a warm blend of Bermuda Cedar, sweet licorice, olivewood bark and amber...
Mariah Carey will launch a new perfume developed with company Elizabeth Arden in September 2009 called Forever, taking the title of one of her songs. This is the third fragrance by Mariah Carey after M, one of the better celebrity fragrances in the market, and Luscious Pink...
Robert Piguet Parfums have launched a re-edition of the 1967 perfume by Robert Piguet called Futur which was launched after the death of the couturier. Like for the earlier Visa and Baghari the formula was reorchestrated by perfumer Aurélien Guichard of Givaudan.
Futur when it was launched made it apparent that it did not belong to a vintage era but was looking towards the future, which meant looking MOD at the time.
"Originally released in the 60s, Futur de Robert Piguet is a vivacious,
romantic green floral woody fragrance. This updated version fuses fresh
citrus, flowers and rich woods to captivating effect."...
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Bond No. 9 will release a new fragrance in March of 2010 inspired by yet another corner of New York City. This time the subject of inspiration is the original idea of the reconverted High Line into a green public space. The perfume is said to be a "marine green floral" composition created by perfumer Laurent Le Guernec of IFF. 
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