February 07, 2008

Maître Parfumeur & Gantier La Reine Margot (2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Historical Fragrance}

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La Reine Margot (Queen Margot) by Maître Parfumeur et Gantier is a beautiful, even stupendous jasmine fragrance with a strong personality. The scent strikingly develops both a sophisticated and frank animalic character softened down and made to feel like warm embers on the skin thanks to rich amber-y and soft honeyed nuances.

The jasmine is narcotic, a bit leathery, never conjuring up the flower itself, but rather its quintessence. It is like the secret aphrodisiac weapon of a free-spirited woman, Marguerite de Valois (1553 - 1615), nicknamed la reine Margot, who was only too infamous for her unbridled sensuality and lack of conformism in her sexual life.

The historian Tallemant des Réaux (1619-1692) posthumously wrote in his Historiettes that apart from her amorous excesses, she was known to be a reasonable and very witty person. But he could not but fail to transmit to posterity her extravagant quirks (he is generally thought to be correct), the fact that she was for example in the habit of carrying the embalmed hearts of her dead lovers all around herself under her vertugadin in little boxes slipped into sewn pockets. She is also reported to have regularly shaved the heads of blond male lackeys kept for that purpose, to give her the hair she lacked since she had gone bald early in her life. Her less than saintly brother king Henri III could not take it anymore at one point and threw her out of the royal court on account of her promiscuous habits (she apparently was nevertheless selective) and eccentricities. The 1994 movie La Reine Margot by Patrice Chéreau amply elaborates upon this trait of hers. Prior to that she was popularized by Alexandre Dumas' novel La Reine Margot (1845), where she is portrayed as a femme fatale.

One of the first sentences in her Memoirs published in 1658 reveals her wit,

"I shall begin these Memoirs in the reign of Charles IX., and set out with the first remarkable event of my life which fell within my remembrance. Herein I follow the example of geographical writers, who, having described the places within their knowledge, tell you that all beyond them are sandy deserts, countries without inhabitants, or seas never navigated."
(you can download an English translation of her memoirs at Project Gutenberg)....

 

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January 31, 2008

Roméa D'Améor Collection - 7 Perfumes For 7 Legendary Women Types (2007) {New Fragrances} {Historical Perfumes}

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Les Espionnes Du Tsar - (Lit. The Female Spies Of The Tsar )

December 1st of 2007 saw the release at the Galeries Lafayette of a collection of 7 perfumes inspired by legendary feminine types rather than famous individuals, by a new French perfume brand called Roméa D'Améor (website currently under construction). The seven fragrances were created by perfumers Annie Vannier and Pierre Bourdon. They take their inspiration from history and aim to encourage a game of identification on the part of women by asking the question, which woman are you? As the tag line goes, "Travel through time, cross the world to discover the secret perfumes of the great women  of history....

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January 17, 2008

Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet (1872): The Gentleman With A Rose {Perfume Review} {Historical Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 2}

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Hammam Bouquet by Penhaligon's is a beautiful intense rose perfume for men, which offers a primitivist charm mainly due to the sheer energy unleashed by the otto of rose used in the scent, while being undeniably elegant at the same time. As the rose blooms and then lightens, freshening with the lavender and some other aromatic herbs, the composition starts feeling like an unusual rose fougère.

The perfume retains a somewhat ancient exotic-in-time cachet; it was, in 1872, the first fragrance created by the founder of Penhaligon's (Est. 1870), William Henry Penhaligon, a barber to the chic London establishment who debuted his career by working in the fashionable Turkish Baths in Jermyn Street after which the scent is named. Another story that circulates is that it was created for or inspired by a Turkish sultan. The scent is said to have been inspired by the characteristic smells of "sweat and sulphur of the Hammam". It remained W.H. Penhaligon's favorite. Hammam Bouquet was more recently re-released in 2003 as the masculine counterpart to a then newly launched feminine perfume, Malabah......

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The Turkish baths on Jermyn Street in St James, 1862,  at the time when W.H. Penhaligon was working there, Illustrated London News.

Continue reading "Penhaligon's Hammam Bouquet (1872): The Gentleman With A Rose {Perfume Review} {Historical Fragrance} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 2}" »

January 08, 2008

Parfums 137 Nara 1869: New House, Unique Old Stories (2008) {New Fragrances} {Historical Perfumes}

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Parfums 137 subtitled Jeux de Parfums (Perfume Games) is a new French perfume brand that proposes an interesting, both learned and playful serialized concept, that of introducing each semester a new range of three perfumes meant to be layered in 7 possible combinations, which each time will be inspired by a unique, extraordinary story. 1 is for a story, 3 for the already mixed essences, and 7 for playfulness (they indicate in advance how the layerings smell). The idea is to progressively build a library of perfumes, one can assume in the tradition of popular serialized encyclopedia.

The first coffret offered by the house is called Nara 1869 and is based on a true olfactory historical event, one exhumed from a very little known discreet chapter of the history of perfumes.......

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December 21, 2007

Napoléon à Sainte-Hélène: L'Authentique Eau de Cologne de l'Empereur by Cosmalia {Historical Fragrance}

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Napoléon 1er is famously known for having been an Eau-de-Cologne junkie of the first magnitude. He would pour 60 bottles a month of the cologne introduced in France by Jean-Marie Farina on his shoulders and proceed with invigorating frictions, this to counteract the relaxing effects of his beloved extra hot baths.... a sort of Scottish shower, Bonaparte-style. So addicted was Napoléon 1er that he even had bottles of cologne designed in the shape of slim parchment rolls so that he could slip them into his boots during his military campaigns........
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Napoleon in Saint-Helena 

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