Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition {Perfume Reviews & List}
We explained previously how we think in terms of cultural-shopping categories when it comes to reviewing personal fragrances. We still need to explain fully why (article forthcoming), but here is a practical example, as applied to a diagonal vision of rose perfumes as they smell today in the beginning of 2012 (reformulations must be evaluated regularly).
Haute Parfumerie
Creed Fleurs de Bulgarie
The natural beauty of roses blooms in this composition dedicated to showcasing high-quality materials. The house of Creed will tell you that each batch of their fragrances is a like a vintage, so there is not telling whether you will get exactly the one I smelled. But let's say that it can be ravishing at its peak.
Frédéric Malle Une Rose
This is a composition which thinks that more is better. It rests on an overdose of rose and it screams quality. A spectacular, lavish Hollywoodian rose - save for the old-world European feel - filmed in cinemascope to suit its breathless epic style. The house is so conscious it is dangerously dosed - their fragrance with the highest concentration of oils - that they request of their customers to be careful when applying it.They could make a pure extract of it and I would still wear it.
Guerlain Rose Barbare
One of the most satisfying rose compositions to be had. It is beautiful, with a balanced, classical, round feel thanks to the honeyed chypre structure, without being unimaginative. A touch of Indian spice - fenugreek -, and other things, make sure there is enough hidden complexity. An old-school feel with a more light-hearted mind and more modern style.
Niche, Authorial, Art-et-Essai Perfumes
A Lab on Fire Rose Rebelle
This composition succeeds in conveying an anticonformist streak, projecting the image of a rock'n roll rose perfume by just playing with a few fragrance notes - they only admit to rose and cocoa - and a minimalist lab bottle which won't help you read it as being counter-cultural. Yet it does smell like something like a short riff on an electric guitar made of roses. It's not caressing, it's a bit brusque. You do remember its swimming-upstream quality...
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