The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


April 26, 2009

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley - Muguet... & Dior {Scented Thoughts} {Fresh Notebook - Green Floral Freshness}



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Lily of the valley by BranchDesign

The smell of muguet (Convallaria majalis), or lily of the valley in English which has also retained the French word, especially in the field of perfumery (and it must smell even better and more refined if you say it in French, no doubt), is instantly delightful, delicate and Fresh, with a capital letter. The scent of a little sprig of muguet evokes by its own self without any exertion of the imagination whatsoever the woodland and the cool of the forest. When closing your eyes, the aroma bespeaks of damp grass and sitting sessions ending with clothing moist by an over-application of dew and patterned with water-rings.

When you further smell lily of the valley, you have to realize that it is really a miraculous kind of freshness compared to the sizes of the shapely little bells. If you approach your nose close to the flowers, it suddenly feels as if it had entered halfway inside a refrigerator and next, that your nostrils and the tip of your nose just turned into ice. Those slender blooms are like mini air-conditioners working at the maximum of their power with no perceptible sound of a motor humming. How can something smell so fresh? Isn't it also rather that they create a micro-climate of freshness around them and then send out all the atmospheric cues of re-processed air to our noses?

A lily of the valley smells is this paradox: it smells as fresh and glacial as blue spearmint without smelling minty at all...


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Lily of the valleys by Stefan Söderström

Continue reading "Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley - Muguet... & Dior {Scented Thoughts} {Fresh Notebook - Green Floral Freshness}" »

April 13, 2009

Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur (2009): Brash Masculine Floral or a Green Fougere Gone Black {Perfume Review}


Thumbnail image for Geranium-pour-Monsieur-2.jpgAs reported last time, Géranium pour Monsieur is the latest Editions de Parfums launch due out in May 2009. Evolving from a brash and super fresh opening to further green crushed freshness then floralcy and dark woodland obscurity, it is touted as an innovative take on the traditional showcasing of geranium (not the rosy kind, but the green leafy kind), a key note used in masculine colognes called fougeres (fern) in reference to their eponymous ancestor Fougère Royale by Houbigant (1882) a creation by perfumer Paul Parquet made possible thanks to the synthesis of coumarin by Perkin in 1868 with its freshly mown-hay nuance.

In a slight departure from the overall professed unisex creed for the house, it is the third perfume by Frédéric Malle to appear with a more marked masculine persona after Vétiver Extraordinaire and especially French Lover (French-market name)/Bois d'Orage (US-market name)...

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Continue reading "Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle Geranium pour Monsieur (2009): Brash Masculine Floral or a Green Fougere Gone Black {Perfume Review}" »

April 10, 2009

Parfums Gobin-Daude Sous Le Buis (2002): Green Leafy Animality {Perfume Review & Musings} {Fresh Notebook}

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The Eyrignac garden in Périgord by cytonick


As far as I can tell the perfume brand Parfums Gobin-Daudé founded by perfumer Victoire Gobin-Daudé was commercialized ca. 2001 and during its short life-span managed to garner the kind of favorable rumoring that ought to equate its career with enduring success. In this case however a discrepancy became apparent as the buzz lived on while the brand went down ca. 2003, whether for marketing or personal reasons mainly, or both, I am not clear about this. But still today whenever a Gobin-Daudé bottle is dug up from oblivion, a little feverishness ensues.

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Topiary in Château d'Amboise by Baloulumix


Sous Le Buis (Under the Boxwood) is on one level a delightfully fresh, scrupulously rendered yet poetic take on the addictive, for me, smell of boxwood. For anyone who thinks that a fraction of paradise can be had by burying one's nose in the scratchy leafage of a round-shaped boxwood sculptured like a stone architectural element salvaged from an old castle, Sous Le Buis allows you to prolong that sensation beyond that short-lived rapturous moment experienced during a walk.  The scent of boxwood, like that of violets, also seems a bit elusive when you stay too long with it although it characteristically permeates the air in French public gardens.

On another level, Sous Le Buis is like an excerpt from a roman à clés rich with symbolism with a little touch of enchantment borrowed from an atmosphere comparable to that of the film La Belle et La Bête (Beauty and the Beast) by Jean Cocteau. It is intriguing, not easy to decipher at first with its strange co-mingling of green and animalistic overtones which later on make sense in reference to the sexed history of boxwood...

Continue reading "Parfums Gobin-Daude Sous Le Buis (2002): Green Leafy Animality {Perfume Review & Musings} {Fresh Notebook}" »

March 12, 2008

Old Spice Commercials with Will Ferrell as the Sweat Expert: Vote for your Favorites {Perfume Images & Adverts} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}

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The "semi-pro" lecturing on Old Spice ProStrength deodorant 

Old Spice has hired actor Will Ferrell in his role as Jackie Moon from the movie "Semi-Pro" to play the sweat expert talking to millions of extra perspiring people from the intimacy of his locker room.

The Old Spice website which was already a riot to read with such immortal lines as "Like a bullrider about to leave the chute give yourself a slap of manhood with the Old Spice Splash Cologne" now features a series of comedic commercials with Will Ferrell for the new deodorant called Old Spice ProStrength. Smile and laughter guaranteed. You can vote for the best ones and your voting unlocks further videos......

Continue reading "Old Spice Commercials with Will Ferrell as the Sweat Expert: Vote for your Favorites {Perfume Images & Adverts} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}" »

March 7, 2008

Cynthia Rowley Flower & Petal Part 1: Slumming in Avonland & Encountering Odors, In A Good Way {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}

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Some Thoughts on Class-Connoted Smells Around Avon Flower and Petal

At the time that David H. McConnell set up the California Perfume Company (1886-1939) the forerunner to Avon, perfectly desirable perfumes were designated with the term “odors”, a word that has come to be negatively connoted in the contemporary period in the English language. If a “scent” generally smells good today, an “odor” in 2008 mostly does not.

This historical semantic shift recently took on a new meaning for us as we smelled the new Avon for Cynthia Rowley duo of perfumes for mothers and daughters called Flower and Petal, which will be issued this year for Mother’s Day. The scents which at first smell pretty in a standard albeit retro way for Flower and in a more interesting, unexpected way for Petal turn out both to reveal some suprisingly frank notes in their base notes. We were so surprised that it felt suddenly like experiencing a time warp and going back to a noisy malodorous street in a Victorian era city (for Flower) and a turn-of the-century Belle Epoque garden (for Petal) where children are playing, running and stopping to catch their breaths covered with summery perspiration. The perfumes at some point smell unnaturally and shockingly natural in a realistic manner.....

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Continue reading "Cynthia Rowley Flower & Petal Part 1: Slumming in Avonland & Encountering Odors, In A Good Way {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}" »

November 30, 2007

Interview with Katherine Ashenburg: Do You Prefer to Scrape, Change Shirts or Soap? {Fragrant Reading} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $20 or Less} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}

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There is a fascinating interview with author Katherine Ashenburg on the history and practices of cleanliness in Salon. Judging by the exchange she seems to retain the theses of classic works of previous researchers on these questions such as Alain Corbin, Georges Vigarello, or Françoise de Bonneville but she also introduces comparative American material for example on the turning point that the Civil War was in the United-States for the discovery of the advantages of cleanliness and its decidedly democratic flavor. She also brings her own personal reflections which are very interesting. The interview and excerpt form her book were so compelling, we immediately went to order a copy of it........

Continue reading "Interview with Katherine Ashenburg: Do You Prefer to Scrape, Change Shirts or Soap? {Fragrant Reading} {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $20 or Less} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}" »

March 1, 2007

Shower Fresh by Clean {Perfume Review & Musings} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}

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How addictive can freshness be? If you want to smell like you had just stepped out of the shower all day long and are wearing crisp freshly ironed linen, then look no further, Shower Fresh by Clean was just made for that purpose.

The perfume has opening notes of lemon, mandarin, and orange. Heart notes are lily of the valley, orange blossom, and jasmine. Base notes are sheer musks and woods.....


Continue reading "Shower Fresh by Clean {Perfume Review & Musings} {Notebook: Fresh & Clean}" »

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