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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity 

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THE SCENTED SALAMANDER

New Fragrance Reviews

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande 

Diptyque Geranium Odorata 

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette 

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Dita Von Teese Erotique

The Perfumer's Workshop Tea Rose Mesk

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne 

Marni Rose 

Paco Rabanne Invictus 

Van Cleef & Arpels Rose Velours 

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première 

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Marni Eau de Parfum

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays 

Should We Curse when Critiquing a Fragrance?

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

March 17, 2006



PERFUME REVIEWS - PERFUME HOUSES A to H {Index}

WELCOME to THE SCENTED SALAMANDER, a BLOG about PERFUME & CULTURE  

Blog reading Guide:

Below is the blog index to fragrance reviews. Please note that there are hundreds more snippet reviews dispersed throughout the site. They might be found in the column Perfume Lists; mentioned as comparative review notes to a main, in-depth perfume review or in a new-fragrance announcement; or found in the category Scented Thoughts.

You can look up a perfume which interests you using the search box at the top of the blog and in the left column of the blog, in case you don't see it featured in the index.  The seach function retrieves 10 pages maximum each time.

Example: while there is no formal review of Mitsouko by Guerlain, it is reviewed in short form numerous times as we followed the evolution of its formulation and "flankerization" over the years.  

We think that a blog is a particularly apt medium for spontaneous news, current affairs, trend-following -even trend-setting -- but also needs a good measure of free-form, jazzy improvization for it to remain a blog. This explains the organic aspect of the blog.

Thanks for visiting the blog!

Some Featured Perfume-Lists:

The Return of Dirty Musks: 6 New Ways to Musk Up for Summer 2010

11 Effortlessly Chic Spring Fragrances: The Classics

16 Baby-Approved Perfumes

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

More Snippet reviews:

Hall-Of-Fame Reviews

Musk Hall of Fame

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A-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

 

acqua-parma-gardner-index.jpg

 

Acqua di Parma

 

Magnolia Nobile (2009)

Colonia Assoluta (2003)

Colonia (1916)

 

agent-provocateur-index-B.jpgAgent Provocateur

Strip (2007)
Rose Passion Massage Oil (2007)
Agent Provocateur (2000)

 

 

dioscorides-Kyphi-index.jpg

 

Alchemy Works

 

Kyphi Oil


black-diamond-Index-B.jpgAmbregris

Ambre et Diamant Noir (2000)

 

 

American Beauty

 

Beloved Red Roses (2009)

 

 

 

Amouage_GoldFlasks-Index-B.jpgAmouage

 

Lyric for Man (2008)

Lyric for Woman (2008)

Reflection Pour Femme (2007)
Reflection Pour Homme (2007)


andre-gas-index.jpgAndré Gas

Ensoleille-Moi (2006)


andy-tauer-index-B.jpgAndy Tauer

Hyacinths and A Mechanic (2007) - The Journey Bottle Project
Lonestar Memories (2006)
Rêverie Au Jardin (2007)

 

 

 

chaperon-rouge-goutal-index.jpgAnnick Goutal

 

 

Le Muguet (2001/2012)

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille (2011)

Ninfeo Mio (2010)

Un Matin d'Orage (2009)

Musc Nomade (2008)
Ambre Fétiche (2007/2008)
Myrrhe Ardente (2007/2008)
Encens Flamboyant (2007/2008)

 

 

 Aquolina

 

Pink Sugar (2003) 

 

giorgio-armani-index.jpgArmani

 

Acqua di Gioia (2010)

Acqua di Gioia (2010): Take 2, The Lifestyle Fragrance Review

Idole d'Armani (2009)

Armani Code Pour Femme (2006)

Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007)

 

 

 

aubrey_organics.jpgAubrey Organics

 

Musk - Musc

 

 

 

 

avon-calling-index.jpgAvon

Far Away Gold (2014) 

Night Magic Evening Musk (ca.1980)

Outspoken by Fergie (2010)

Bond Girl 007 (2008)

Flower & Petal - Part 1 (2008) (2 mother & daughter perfumes)
Flower & Petal - Part 2 (2008)

 

 

 

 

Azzaro-couture-index.jpgAzzaro

 

Azzaro pour Homme (1978)

 

B-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

 

 

 

dovima-balenciaga-B.jpgBalenciaga

 • Rosabotanica (2014)

Balenciaga Paris (2010)
Ho Hang
La Fuite des Heures (1949)
Quadrille

 

 

 

pierre-BALMAIN-perfume-index.jpgBalmain

Extatic (2014) 

Ambre Gris (2008)

La Môme (2007)
Balmain (1998)
Vent Vert (1945/1990)

 

 

 

Barbara Orbison

 

Pretty Woman (2010)

 

 

 

renoir-after-the-bath-index.jpgBath and Body Works

 

Warm Vanilla Sugar (2007)

Japanese Cherry Blossom (2007)

Twilight Woods (2009)

 

beckhams-fragrance-index.jpgBeckham

Intimately For Him (2006)
Intimately Beckham Night Men (2007/2008)
Intimately Beckham Night Women (2007/2008)

 

 

 

benefit-index.jpgBenefit Cosmetics

 

Crescent Row:

• Laugh With Me LeeLee

There's Something About Sofia

My Place Or Yours Gina (2009)

 

 



betsey-johnson-2-index.jpgBetsey Johnson

 

Betsey Johnson (2006)

 

 

 

beyoncé_pepsi.jpg

Beyoncé

Rise (2014)

Heat (2010)

  

 

I_Love_Bio.jpg

Bio' Rêve

 Sensuelle (2008)

 

 

BOBBI_BROWN.jpg

Bobbi Brown

 Almost Bare (2008)


coney_island_Bond_9.jpg Bond no9

Saks-en-Rose (2010)

Union Square (2008 

Saks Fifth Avenue For Her (2007)

Saks Fifth Avenue For Him (2007)

Bryant Park (2007)

Coney Island (2007)

Fire Island (2006)

West Side (2006)


Borsari 1870

Rosa Thea

Violetta di Parma (1870)

Violetta Di Parma (1870) (in a nutshell)

 

 

Bottega Veneta

 Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2011)


Boucheron

Trouble

 

 

Bourbon French Parfums

Jasmine

 

Britney Spears

 

Circus Fantasy (2009)

 

 

Bruno Acampora

 

Blu (1974) 

 

 

Bulgari

 

Mon Jasmin Noir

 

(2011)

 

Man (2010)

Omnia Crystalline (2004)
Rose Essentielle Eau de Parfum (2005)

 

 

Burt's Bees

 

Burt's Bees Cologne (2007) 

 

 

By Kilian

 

Love & Tears, Surrender (2010)

Incense Oud (2011)

Rose Oud (2010)

Prelude To Love, Invitation (2008)

• Love: Les Ingénues (2007)
Beyond Love: Les Ingénues (2007)

 

Burberry 

Burberry Body (2011)

Burberry Sport for Women and Men (2010)

 

 

Byredo

 

Baudelaire (2009)

Bal d'Afrique (2009)

 

 

 

C-letter-108-120-TSS.jpgCacharel

 

Anaïs Anaïs (1978)

Liberté (2007)
Amor Pour Homme (2006)

 

Calvin Klein

 

Man (2007)
CK IN2U for Her (2007)
CK IN2U for Him (2007) 

 

 

 

Carol's Daughter

 

Mary J. Blige My Life (2010)

 

 

Carolina Herrera

 

212 Sexy for Women (2004)

 

pour-un-homme-ad-Index.jpg


 

 

Caron

 

Tubéreuse (2003)

Le Troisième Homme (1985)

Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008)
Royal Bain de Champagne (1923)
Montaigne Eau de Parfum (2007)
Montaigne Eau de Toilette (1986-87)
Aimez-Moi (1996) (+ comparison with N'Aimez Que Moi)
Fleurs de Rocaille

 

(1933)

Cartier

 

So Pretty (1995)

 • Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) (2011)

Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) (2011)

Déclaration

 

 

 

 

Carven

 

Carven, L'Eau de Toilette (2014) 

Carven, Le Parfum (2013) 

 

 

 

Caswell-Massey

 

Dr. Hunter's Rosewater & Glycerine Hand Creme

 

 

 Caudalie

 

Parfum Divin (2014) 

Chanel

 

Bois des Îles (1926)

1932 (2013)

Coco Noir (2012)

Coco Noir Post-Scriptum (2012)

 Bleu de Chanel (2010)

Chanel Eau de Cologne (2007) (English Version)

Chanel Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne (2007) (Version française)

Chance Eau Tendre (2010)
 

Cristalle Eau Verte (2009)

Les Exclusifs: Overview 1
Les Exclusifs: Overview 2
Sycomore (2008)
31, Rue Cambon (2007)
Bel Respiro (2007)
No 18 (2007)
28 La Pausa
(2007)

 

 

 

Charriol

 

Imperial Saphir (2012)

 

Château de Versailles

MA Sillage de la Reine (2006)

 

 

Chloé

  

Love, Chloé Eau Florale (2013)

Néroli Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Capucine Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense (2009)

Chloé Eau de Parfum (2008)

 

 

 

Chopard

 

 

Cascade (2009)

 

 

Christina Aguilera

 

 Inspire (2008)


Clean

Showerfresh

 


Clinique

 

 

• Beyond Rose (2014) (Middle-East Exclusive)

 

Wrappings (1990)

 

Aromatics Elixir The Perfumer's Reserve (2011) - Limited Edition

Aromatics Elixir Sheer Velvet
(2006)

 

 

 

Coach

 

 • Signature Summer 2012

 

 

Comme Des Garçons

 

Daphne Guinness Daphne (2009)

Stephen Jones EDP (2008)

H & M Limited Edition (2008)

Sweet Series: Nomad Tea (2005)
Red Series: Rose
(2001)

 

 

 

Compagnie de Provence

 

 

Anis Patchouli (2011)

Encens Lavande

 

(2009)

Comptoir Sud Pacifique

 

 

 

Cristal de Musc (1986)
Vanille Citrus
(2006)

 

 

 

 

Coty

 

 

Vanilla Musk (1994)

L'Origan - Poem-Review (1905) 

 

 

 

 

Creed

Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea (2014)

Aventus (2010)

Love In Black (2008)

Virgin Island Water (2007)
Spring Flower (1951)
Orange Spice 
(1950)



Crown Perfumery

 

 

 Ess Bouquet

Maréchale 90

 

 

-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

Danielle Steel

Danielle Steel (2006)

 

 

 

 

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

 

 

 

Wild Honeysuckle (spring 2007)
Tamarind Paprika
(Holiday 2007)

Des Filles A La Vanille

Garçon Manqué

 

 

  

Desperate Housewives

 

Forbidden Fruit (2006)

 

 

 

Diane Von Furstenberg

 

Diane (2011)

 

 

 

Dior

 

Gris Montaigne (2013)

Addict Eau Délice (2013)

Escale à Parati (2012) 

Escale aux Marquises (2010)

Escale à Pondichéry (2009)

Escale à Portofino (2008)
Midnight Poison (2007)
Eau Sauvage (1966)
Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir (2007)
Fahrenheit 32 (2007)
J'Adore
Diorissimo
(1956)

 

 

Diptyque

 Eau de Lavande Eau Florale (2014)

Geranium Odorata Eau Florale (2014)

 

Volutes (2012)

 

Eau Rose (2012)

34 Boulevard Saint Germain (2011)

Vétyvério (2010)

Jardin Clos (2003)

 

 

 

DKNY

 

Be Delicious City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple (2014)

PureDKNY (2010)

 

 

 Dita Von Teese

Erotique (2013) 

 

Dolce & Gabbana

 Dolce (2014)

The One Desire (2013)

Rose The One (2009)

The One for Men (2008)

 

 

Donna Karan

  

 

Delicious Night (2007)

 

 

-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

 

 

Eau d'Italie Le Sirénuse

 

Baume du Doge (2008)

Magnolia Romana (2008)
Bois d'Ombrie (2006)
Paestum Rose (2006)
Sienne l'Hiver
(2006)

 

 

 

Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier

  

Love & Luck for Women (2008)

Love & Luck for Men (2008)

Ed Hardy for Men (2008)
Ed Hardy for Women
(2008)

 

  

Editions de Parfums - Frédéric Malle

 Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle (2013)

Portrait of a Lady (2010)

Géranium pour Monsieur (2009)

En Passant (2000)

Dans Tes Bras (2008)
Carnal Flower
Iris Poudre (2000)
Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum
Musc Ravageur Oil

 

Elie Saab

 

Elie Saab Le Parfum (2011)

 

 

Elizabeth Arden

 

Green Tea Camellia (2011)

Pretty (2009)

 

 

Elizabeth Taylor

 

Violet Eyes (2010)

 

  

elizabethW

  

Vetiver
Lilac
Neroli & Chamomile
Leaves
Magnolia
 

Elsha

1776

 

 

Escada

 

Born in Paradise (2014) 

Cherry in the Air  (2013) Limited-Edition


Esteban 

 

Belle au Parfum de Oud (2012)

Passion Brésil (2007)
Secrète Afrique (2006)
Sensuelle Russie (2006)
Tonka
(2006) 

 

Estée Lauder

 

Modern Muse (2013) 

Wood Mystique (2011)

Sensuous Noir (2010)

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (2009)

Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang (2008)

Sensuous (2008)
Pure White Linen Light Breeze (2008)
Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent (2008)
Pleasures Delight (2007)
Tom Ford Azurée Soleil Eau Fraiche/Skinscent (2007)
Private Collection (1973)
Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection (EDP) (2007)
Youth-Dew
(Blue Bottle 2008 re-edition)

Etat Libre d'Orange

Overview

Like This, Tilda Swinton (2010)

Tom of Finland (2008)

Noël au Balcon (2007)
Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection (2007)
Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow (2007)
Encens et Bubblegum (2006)
Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006)
Vierges et Toreros
(2006/2007)

Etro

Dianthus (2006)

 

 

 

Excelsis Fine Fragrances

 The Pope's Cologne 

 

-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

 

 

Fendi

 

 

L'Acquarossa (2013)

 

 

 

 

 

Fergie

 

 

 

Outspoken (2010)

 

 

 

 

Ferre

 

 

 

Eau de Cologne Ferrè Bergamotto Marino (2005)

 

 

 

 

Floris of London

 

 

 

Malmaison
Night Scented Jasmine

 

(2006)

Fragonard

 

 

Fragonard 
Caresse
(1929/2008)
Billet Doux (2006 re-edition)

 

 

 

Frapin

 

 

 

L'Humaniste (2009)

Terre de Sarment (2007)
Caravelle Epicée (2007)
Passion Boisée (2007)
Esprit de Fleurs
(2007)

 

 

 

Fresh

 

 

 

Cannabis Rose (2008)

 

-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

  

Gap

 

Lavender Tea No. 362 (2007)
Coconut Tuberose No. 821
Mandarin Jasmine No. 094
Velvet Bloom No. 695
Washed Cotton No. 784
White Amber No. 541

 

 

Gemey

 

 • H pour Homme Titanium (1999)

 

 

 Givenchy

 

EauDemoiselle (2010)

Harvest 2008: Ange et Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irrésistible Rosa Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Le De (1957-2007)
Vetyver
(1959-2007)

 

Gobin-Daudé 

 

 

Sous Le Buis (Under The Boxwood) (2002)

 

 

Grès

 

Ambre de Cabochard (2007)
Cabaret 
(2002)


Gucci

  

 • Première (2013)

 • Gucci Guilty for Men (2011)

Gucci Guilty for Women (2010)

Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme (2010)
Gucci by Gucci (2007)
Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002)
Gucci Pour Homme (2003)
Gucci Pour Homme II 
(2007)


Guerlain

 • Jardins de Bagatelle, the reformulated version ca. 2014 (1983)

 • Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca (2013)

 • Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia (2012)

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau (2012)

 Shalimar Parfum Initial (2011)

Vétiver pour Elle (2007)

Cologne du Parfumeur (2010)

Flora Nymphea (2010)

Idylle - Part 1 (2009)

Idylle - Part 2 (2009)

Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Mimosa & Cherry Blossom (2009)

Le Muguet - limited edition (2009)

La Petite Robe Noire (2009)

Jasmin (1924/1928)

Laurier-Réglisse (2008)

Figue-Iris (2008)

Cruel Gardenia Limited Edition (2008)

Spiritueuse Double Vanille Limited Edition (2007)

L'Instant Magic (2007)

Insolence (2006)

Jardins de Bagatelle

Lights of Champs-Elysées (2006)

Mayotte (2006)

Mahora (2001)

Mitsouko (1919 followed by reformulations)

Pamplelune (1998)

Sous Le Vent (2006 re-edition)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999) (Version Française)

Eau de Cologne Impériale (1850s)

Jicky (1889) - Jicky and Gender

Après L'Ondée (1906)

 

 

 
Guess

 

 

 

Guess by Marciano (2008)

-Letter-TSS.jpg

 

 

 

Halle Berry

 Exotic Jasmine (2013)

 

Hampton Sun

Privet Bloom (edp) (2007)

 

Hanae Mori

Magical Moon (2006)

 

 

Harney & Sons (Tea)

 

 

Peach Ginger Twist
Valentine's Blend
(2008)

 

 

Helena Rubinstein

 Wanted (2009)

 

 Hermès

 Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (2013)

Eau de Narcisse Bleu (2013)

L'Ambre des Merveilles (2012)

Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011)

 Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010)

Voyage d'Hermès (2010)

Eau d'Hermès (1951)

Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 1 (Hermessence Collection) (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 2 (2009)

Un Jardin Après La Mousson (2008)
Brin de Réglisse (Hermessence Collection) (2007)
Rocabar
(1998)

 

 

Hilary Duff

 

With Love (2006)

Histoires de Parfums

 

 

•  Petroleum (2011)

 Moulin Rouge 1889 (2009)

1740, Le Marquis de Sade
• 
Noir Patchouli

 

 

Houbigant

 

Quelques Fleurs L'Original (1912 / 2009)

 

  

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi

 

L'Aurora (2009) 

  

Humiecki & Graef

 

Skarb - Part 1 (2007)
Skarb
- Part 2 (2007)

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

Latest Comments

El hassen Hamadi on New Perfume: Men's Lotus Fragrance : I want to know how to find this fragrance

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I remember purchasing it once on eBay Germany.

Marion taylor on Index of New Perfumes in 2014, 2013, 2012, 2011, 2010, 2009, 2008, 2007, 2006 {New Fragrances} : I am trying to find marcella primeur por femme if anyone can ...

Sadra on Bottega Veneta Knot (2014) {New Fragrance} : THAT BOTTLE! Although I love the original BV, the notes in this ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Wow, I didn't feel it was that bad! Obviously, the halo effect ...

ramonjurado01 on Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes (2010) {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance} : I don't perceive any of this when wearing this perfume or even ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : We don't stock perfumes ourselves, we only write and talk about them! ...

Sandra Pantelopoulos on Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection by Estée Lauder {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance} : My daughter gave Me a Sample of your Gardenia Private Collection! It ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur (2000) {Perfume Review & Musings} : No, I don't know this object. It sounds very kitsch though, more ...

Brenda on Agent Provocateur by Agent Provocateur (2000) {Perfume Review & Musings} : I have a huge bottle of parfum I purchased in Cannes, FR ...

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