Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

ABOUT: I'm a PhD in historical anthropology who's worked on foodways, death & identity as well as an English literature major turned perfume writer & blogger out of conviction, passion & intellectual curiosity. That's the short of it.

 

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The Scented Salamander

"Perfume & Culture blog. It inspired Fashion curator Harold Koda into creating an online venue for the MET. Serge Lutens called it a rare independent blog."

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Your daily dose of commentary, ideas, interpretation, criticism & news on the state of the Perfume-cum-Food-cum-Entertainment-cum-Beauty-Industry i.e., Life

Latest Fragrance Reviews

The Jasmine Green Tea Trend in Perfumes for Spring-Summer 2013

Sexy & Maternal Perfumes for Mother's Day 2013

Jo Malone Osmanthus Blossom

Tom Ford Sahara Noir

Penhaligon's Ellenisia 

ID Parfums Elixir de Muguet

Mariah Carey Lollipop Bling Honey

Lettre Ouverte à l'Osmothèque sur votre Conférence sur les Blogs Parfums par une Blogueuse Honteuse

Chloé Eau de Fleur Néroli

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

Van Cleef & Arpels Féérie Spring Blossom

Marni Eau de Parfum

Mojo Magique

Prada No.14 Rossetto

Tom Ford Noir

Dolce & Gabbana The One Desire 

Chanel 1932

Escada Cherry in the Air

Serge Lutens La Fille de Berlin 

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle

Lancôme L'Autre Ôud

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

A Christmas Tree, Mitsouko, Gourmandises & the Memories of Constantin Weriguine: Joy to the World 

Hermès L'Ambre des Merveilles

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Gemey H pour Homme Titanium

Robert Piguet Blossom

Robert Piguet Oud

Jo Malone Blackberry & Bay

Esteban Belle au Parfum de Oud

Serge Lutens Une Voix Noire

Lady Gaga Fame

Chanel Coco Noir: Post-Scriptum

Chanel Coco Noir

Serge Lutens Santal Majuscule

Prada Luna Rossa

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Madonna Truth or Dare

Fragrance Essays 

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

Cool Powdery Perfumes for Summer 2012 are Descendants of L'Heure Bleue by Guerlain

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

Bourbon French Parfums Jasmine

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

March 17, 2006



PERFUME REVIEWS - PERFUME HOUSES A to H {Index}

Coffee-Perfume-Reviews.jpgWelcome to The Scented Salamander Blog-Perfume-Café! Have a cuppa and let me know what you think about this and that perfume!

Note to Readers: Please note that there are hundreds more brief summary reviews dispersed throughout the site than the comprehensive, more literary ones listed below. They might be part of lists or mentioned as comparative review notes to a main fragrance analysis.

We suggest that you look up a perfume that interests you by using the search box in the upper left corner of the blog, in case you don't see it featured below.  

For example, we have not formally reviewed Mitsouko by Guerlain but it is reviewed in short form numerous times as we followed the evolution of its formulation or "flankerization" over the years.  

We think that a blog is a particularly apt medium for news, current affairs, trend-following, even trend-setting -- but also needs a good measure of free-form, jazzy improvization for it to remain fun to blog.

Featured Shopping Lists:

The Return of Dirty Musks: 6 New Ways to Musk Up for Summer 2010

11 Effortlessly Chic Spring Fragrances: The Classics

16 Baby-Approved Perfumes

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

Special Hall-Of-Fame Reviews

Musk Hall of Fame

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acqua-parma-gardner-index.jpgAcqua di Parma

Magnolia Nobile (2009)

Colonia Assoluta (2003)

Colonia (1916)

 

agent-provocateur-index-B.jpgAgent Provocateur

Strip (2007)
Rose Passion Massage Oil (2007)
Agent Provocateur (2000)

 

 

dioscorides-Kyphi-index.jpgAlchemy Works

Kyphi Oil


black-diamond-Index-B.jpgAmbregris

Ambre et Diamant Noir (2000)

American Beauty

Beloved Red Roses (2009)

 

Amouage_GoldFlasks-Index-B.jpgAmouage

Lyric for Man (2008)

Lyric for Woman (2008)

Reflection Pour Femme (2007)
Reflection Pour Homme (2007)


andre-gas-index.jpgAndré Gas

Ensoleille-Moi (2006)


andy-tauer-index-B.jpgAndy Tauer

Hyacinths and A Mechanic (2007) - The Journey Bottle Project
Lonestar Memories (2006)
Rêverie Au Jardin (2007)

 

chaperon-rouge-goutal-index.jpgAnnick Goutal

 

Le Muguet (2001/2012)

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille (2011)

Ninfeo Mio (2010)

Un Matin d'Orage (2009)

Musc Nomade (2008)
Ambre Fétiche (2007/2008)
Myrrhe Ardente (2007/2008)
Encens Flamboyant (2007/2008)

 

 

 

giorgio-armani-index.jpgArmani

Acqua di Gioia (2010)

Acqua di Gioia (2010): Take 2, The Lifestyle Fragrance Review

Idole d'Armani (2009)

Armani Code Pour Femme (2006)

Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007)

 

aubrey_organics.jpgAubrey Organics

Musk - Musc

 

 

avon-calling-index.jpgAvon

Night Magic Evening Musk (ca.1980)

Outspoken by Fergie (2010)

Bond Girl 007 (2008)

Flower & Petal - Part 1 (2008) (2 mother & daughter perfumes)
Flower & Petal - Part 2 (2008)

 

 

Azzaro-couture-index.jpgAzzaro

Azzaro pour Homme (1978)

 

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dovima-balenciaga-B.jpgBalenciaga

Balenciaga Paris (2010)
Ho Hang
La Fuite des Heures (1949)
Quadrille

 

pierre-BALMAIN-perfume-index.jpgBalmain

Ambre Gris (2008)
La Môme (2007)
Balmain (1998)
Vent Vert (1945/1990)

 

Barbara Orbison

Pretty Woman (2010)

 

renoir-after-the-bath-index.jpgBath and Body Works

Warm Vanilla Sugar (2007)

Japanese Cherry Blossom (2007)

Twilight Woods (2009)

 

beckhams-fragrance-index.jpgBeckham

Intimately For Him (2006)
Intimately Beckham Night Men (2007/2008)
Intimately Beckham Night Women (2007/2008)

 

benefit-index.jpgBenefit Cosmetics

Crescent Row:

• Laugh With Me LeeLee

There's Something About Sofia

My Place Or Yours Gina (2009)



betsey-johnson-2-index.jpgBetsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson (2006)

 

Beyoncé

Beyoncé Heat (2010)

 

Bio' Rêve

Sensuelle (2008)

Bobbi Brown

Almost Bare (2008)

Bond no9

Saks-en-Rose (2010)

Union Square (2008)
Saks Fifth Avenue For Her (2007)
Saks Fifth Avenue For Him (2007)
Bryant Park (2007)
Coney Island (2007)
Fire Island (2006)
West Side (2006)


Borsari 1870

Rosa Thea
Violetta di Parma (1870)
Violetta Di Parma (1870) (in a nutshell)

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2011)

Boucheron

Trouble

Bourbon French Parfums

Jasmine

Britney Spears

Circus Fantasy (2009)

Bruno Acampora

Blu (1974) 

Bulgari

Mon Jasmin Noir (2011)

Man (2010)

Omnia Crystalline (2004)
Rose Essentielle Eau de Parfum (2005)

 

Burt's Bees

Burt's Bees Cologne (2007) 

By Kilian

Love & Tears, Surrender (2010)

 

Incense Oud (2011)

Rose Oud (2010)

Prelude To Love, Invitation (2008)

• Love: Les Ingénues (2007)
Beyond Love: Les Ingénues (2007)

 

Burberry 

Burberry Body (2011)

Burberry Sport for Women and Men (2010)

Byredo

Baudelaire (2009)

Bal d'Afrique (2009)

 

C-letter-108-120-TSS.jpgCacharel

Anaïs Anaïs (1978)

 

Liberté (2007)
Amor Pour Homme (2006)

 

Calvin Klein

Man (2007)
CK IN2U for Her (2007)
CK IN2U for Him (2007) 

 

Carol's Daughter

Mary J. Blige My Life (2010)

Carolina Herrera

212 Sexy for Women (2004)

 

pour-un-homme-ad-Index.jpg


Caron

Tubéreuse (2003)

Le Troisième Homme (1985)

Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008)
Royal Bain de Champagne (1923)
Montaigne Eau de Parfum (2007)
Montaigne Eau de Toilette (1986-87)
Aimez-Moi (1996) (+ comparison with N'Aimez Que Moi)
Fleurs de Rocaille (1933)

Cartier

So Pretty (1995)

 • Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) (2011)

Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) (2011)

Déclaration

 

 

Caswell-Massey

Dr. Hunter's Rosewater & Glycerine Hand Creme

 

 

Chanel

 

 

1932 (2013)

Coco Noir (2012)

Coco Noir Post-Scriptum (2012)

 Bleu de Chanel (2010)

Chanel Eau de Cologne (2007) (English Version)

Chanel Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne (2007) (Version française)

Chance Eau Tendre (2010)
 

Cristalle Eau Verte (2009)

Les Exclusifs: Overview 1
Les Exclusifs: Overview 2
Sycomore (2008)
31, Rue Cambon (2007)
Bel Respiro (2007)
No 18 (2007)
28 La Pausa (2007)

 

Charriol

 

Imperial Saphir (2012)

 

Château de Versailles

MA Sillage de la Reine (2006)

 

Chloé

 

Néroli Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Capucine Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense (2009)

Chloé Eau de Parfum (2008)

 

Chopard

 

Cascade (2009)

 

Christina Aguilera

 

 Inspire (2008)


Clean

Showerfresh

Clinique

 

Aromatics Elixir The Perfumer's Reserve (2011) - Limited Edition

Aromatics Elixir Sheer Velvet (2006)

 

Coach

 

Signature Summer 2012

 

Comme Des Garçons

Daphne Guinness Daphne (2009)

Stephen Jones EDP (2008)

H & M Limited Edition (2008)

Sweet Series: Nomad Tea (2005)
Red Series: Rose (2001)

 

Compagnie de Provence

 

Anis Patchouli (2011)

Encens Lavande (2009)

Comptoir Sud Pacifique

 

 

Cristal de Musc (1986)
Vanille Citrus (2006)

 

 

Coty

 

Vanilla Musk (1994)

L'Origan - Poem-Review (1905) 

 

 

Creed

Aventus (2010)

Love In Black (2008)

Virgin Island Water (2007)
Spring Flower (1951)
Orange Spice (1950)


Crown Perfumery

 

 Ess Bouquet

Maréchale 90

 

 

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Danielle Steel

Danielle Steel (2006)

 

 

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

 

 

Wild Honeysuckle (spring 2007)
Tamarind Paprika (Holiday 2007)

Des Filles A La Vanille

Garçon Manqué

 

 

Desperate Housewives

Forbidden Fruit (2006)

 

 

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane (2011)

 

 

Dior

 

 • Escale à Parati (2012)

 

Escale aux Marquises (2010)

Escale à Pondichéry (2009)

Escale à Portofino (2008)
Midnight Poison (2007)
Eau Sauvage (1966)
Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir (2007)
Fahrenheit 32 (2007)
J'Adore
Diorissimo (1956)

 

Diptyque

 

•  Volutes (2012)

34 Boulevard Saint Germain (2011)

Vétyvério (2010)

Jardin Clos (2003)

 

DKNY

 

 

PureDKNY (2010)

 

 

 Dolce & Gabbana

 

The One Desire (2013)

Rose The One (2009)

The One for Men (2008)

 

Donna Karan

 

 

Delicious Night (2007)

 

 

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Eau d'Italie Le Sirénuse

 

 

Baume du Doge (2008)

Magnolia Romana (2008)
Bois d'Ombrie (2006)
Paestum Rose (2006)
Sienne l'Hiver (2006)

 

Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier

 

 

Love & Luck for Women (2008)

Love & Luck for Men (2008)

Ed Hardy for Men (2008)
Ed Hardy for Women (2008)

 

Editions de Parfums - Frédéric Malle

 

 • Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle (2013)

Portrait of a Lady (2010)

Géranium pour Monsieur (2009)

En Passant (2000)

Dans Tes Bras (2008)
Carnal Flower
Iris Poudre (2000)
Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum
Musc Ravageur Oil

 

 

Elie Saab

Elie Saab Le Parfum (2011)

 

Elizabeth Arden

 

 

Green Tea Camellia (2011)

Pretty (2009)

 

Elizabeth Taylor

 

 

Violet Eyes (2010)

 

elizabethW

 

 

Vetiver
Lilac
Neroli & Chamomile
Leaves
Magnolia 

Elsha

1776

 

 

 

 

 

Escada

 

 

Cherry in the Air (2013) Limited-Edition

Esteban

 

Belle au Parfum de Oud (2012)

Passion Brésil (2007)
Secrète Afrique (2006)
Sensuelle Russie (2006)
Tonka (2006) 

 

Estée Lauder

 

Wood Mystique (2011)

Sensuous Noir (2010)

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (2009)

Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang (2008)

Sensuous (2008)
Pure White Linen Light Breeze (2008)
Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent (2008)
Pleasures Delight (2007)
Tom Ford Azurée Soleil Eau Fraiche/Skinscent (2007)
Private Collection (1973)
Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection (EDP) (2007)
Youth-Dew (Blue Bottle 2008 re-edition)

Etat Libre d'Orange

Overview

Like This, Tilda Swinton (2010)

Tom of Finland (2008)

Noël au Balcon (2007)
Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection (2007)
Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow (2007)
Encens et Bubblegum (2006)
Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006)
Vierges et Toreros (2006/2007)

Etro

Dianthus (2006)

 

 

Excelsis Fine Fragrances

 

 

The Pope's Cologne 

 

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Fergie

 

 

Outspoken (2010)

 

 

Ferre

 

 

Eau de Cologne Ferrè Bergamotto Marino (2005)

 

 

Floris of London

 

 

Malmaison
Night Scented Jasmine (2006)

Fragonard


Caresse (1929/2008)
Billet Doux (2006 re-edition)

 

Frapin

 

 

L'Humaniste (2009)

Terre de Sarment (2007)
Caravelle Epicée (2007)
Passion Boisée (2007)
Esprit de Fleurs (2007)

 

Fresh

 

 

Cannabis Rose (2008)

 

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Gap

 

 

Lavender Tea No. 362 (2007)
Coconut Tuberose No. 821
Mandarin Jasmine No. 094
Velvet Bloom No. 695
Washed Cotton No. 784
White Amber No. 541

 

 


Gemey

 

 • H pour Homme Titanium (1999)

 

 Givenchy

 

EauDemoiselle (2010)

Harvest 2008: Ange et Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irrésistible Rosa Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Le De (1957-2007)
Vetyver (1959-2007)

 

Gobin-Daudé 

 

 

Sous Le Buis (Under The Boxwood) (2002)

 

Grès

Ambre de Cabochard (2007)
Cabaret (2002)

Gucci

 

 

 • Gucci Guilty for Men (2011)

Gucci Guilty for Women (2010)

Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme (2010)
Gucci by Gucci (2007)
Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002)
Gucci Pour Homme (2003)
Gucci Pour Homme II (2007)

Guerlain

 

 

 • Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia (2012)

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau (2012)

 Shalimar Parfum Initial (2011)

Vétiver pour Elle (2007)

Cologne du Parfumeur (2010)

Flora Nymphea (2010)

Idylle - Part 1 (2009)

Idylle - Part 2 (2009)

Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Mimosa & Cherry Blossom (2009)

Le Muguet - limited edition (2009)

La Petite Robe Noire (2009)

Jasmin (1924/1928)

Laurier-Réglisse (2008)

Figue-Iris (2008)

Cruel Gardenia Limited Edition (2008)

Spiritueuse Double Vanille Limited Edition (2007)

L'Instant Magic (2007)

Insolence (2006)

Jardins de Bagatelle

Lights of Champs-Elysées (2006)

Mayotte (2006)

Mahora (2001)

Mitsouko (1919 followed by reformulations)

Pamplelune (1998)

Sous Le Vent (2006 re-edition)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999) (Version Française)

Eau de Cologne Impériale (1850s)

Jicky (1889) - Jicky and Gender

Après L'Ondée (1906)

 
Guess

 

 

Guess by Marciano (2008)

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Hampton Sun

 

 

Privet Bloom (edp) (2007)

Hanae Mori

Magical Moon (2006)

 

 

Harney & Sons (Tea)

 

 

Peach Ginger Twist
Valentine's Blend (2008)

 

Helena Rubinstein

Wanted (2009)

 

 

Hermès

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (2013)

Eau de Narcisse Bleu (2013)

L'Ambre des Merveilles (2012)

Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011)

 Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010)

Voyage d'Hermès (2010)

Eau d'Hermès (1951)

Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 1 (Hermessence Collection) (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 2 (2009)

Un Jardin Après La Mousson (2008)
Brin de Réglisse (Hermessence Collection) (2007)
Rocabar (1998)

 

 

Hilary Duff

 

With Love (2006)

Histoires de Parfums

 

 

Moulin Rouge 1889 (2009)
1740, Le Marquis de Sade
•  Noir Patchouli

 

 

Houbigant

 

Quelques Fleurs L'Original (1912 / 2009)

 

 

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi

 

L'Aurora (2009) 

 

Humiecki & Graef

 

 

Skarb - Part 1 (2007)
Skarb - Part 2 (2007)

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

Categories

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