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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

About: A Pioneer Perfume Blog est. 2006 by Chantal-Hélène Wagner. A Blog on Perfume & Society, with Notes on Beauty - News, Reviews, Interviews, Commentary & Criticism.

I earned a doctorate in anthropology after managing a multi-year, fieldwork research on foodways & social memory in several comparative geographic areas.

I have smelled the steppes of Mongolia, the oil fields of Kazakhstan, Soviet apartments, and the subway in New York and Paris. They all smell strangely exotic, with one common point: the scent of humanity.

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THE PERFUME BUZZ

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Paris Hilton Heiress

Vivienne Westwood Let It Rock

Nuxe Body Relaxing Fragrant Water

Serge Lutens L'Orpheline

Molinard Vanille Marine

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Limon Verde

Creed Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea

Guerlain Jardins de Bagatelle, The Reformulation

Caudalie Parfum Divin

Balmain Extatic

Nicolaï, Parfumeur-Créateur Musc Monoï

Balenciaga Rosabotanica

Clinique Beyond Rose

Van Cleef & Arpels California Rêverie

Diptyque Eau de Lavande

Diptyque Geranium Odorata

DKNY City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple

Beyoncé Rise

Roger et Gallet Gingembre Rouge

Dolce & Gabbana Dolce

Yves Saint Laurent Manifesto L'Eclat

Sisley Eau Tropicale

Avon Far Away Gold

Carven L'Eau de Toilette

Paco Rabanne Black XS Potion for Her

Escada Born in Paradise

Viktor & Rolf BonBon

Tory Burch Eau de Parfum

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part II

On The Scented Trail of an Aromatic Cult to the Goddess Strenia to Usher in the New Year - Part I

Reiss Grey Flower

Dior Gris Montaigne

Marni Rose

Paco Rabanne Invictus

Estée Lauder Modern Muse

Fendi L'Acquarossa

Gucci Première

Guerlain Nerolia Bianca

Carven, Le Parfum

Hermès Eau de Mandarine Ambrée & Eau de Narcisse Bleu

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi l'Aurora

Lancôme La Vie est Belle

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes for Film-Noir Viewing

The Story of the Royal Anointing Oil in England: From the Sacred to the Fragrant

A Perfume Blog Ought to be Cross-Cultural

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

March 17, 2006



PERFUME REVIEWS - PERFUME HOUSES A to H {Index}

WELCOME to THE SCENTED SALAMANDER, a BLOG about PERFUME & CULTURE

Blog reading Guide:

Below is the blog index to fragrance reviews. Please note that there are hundreds more snippet reviews dispersed throughout the site. They might be found in the column Perfume Lists; mentioned as comparative review notes to a main, in-depth perfume review or in a new-fragrance announcement; or found in the category Scented Thoughts.

You can look up a perfume which interests you using the search box at the top of the blog and in the left column of the blog, in case you don't see it featured in the index. The seach function retrieves 10 pages maximum each time.

Example: while there is no formal review of Mitsouko by Guerlain, it is reviewed in short form numerous times as we followed the evolution of its formulation and "flankerization" over the years.

We think that a blog is a particularly apt medium for spontaneous news, current affairs, trend-following -even trend-setting -- but also needs a good measure of free-form, jazzy improvization for it to remain a blog. This explains the organic aspect of the blog.

Thanks for visiting the blog!

Some Featured Perfume-Lists:

The Return of Dirty Musks: 6 New Ways to Musk Up for Summer 2010

11 Effortlessly Chic Spring Fragrances: The Classics

16 Baby-Approved Perfumes

Smell Expensive for Less with these 6 Perfumes

More Snippet reviews:

Hall-Of-Fame Reviews

Musk Hall of Fame

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A-Letter-TSS.jpg

acqua-parma-gardner-index.jpg

Acqua di Parma

Magnolia Nobile (2009)

Colonia Assoluta (2003)

Colonia (1916)

agent-provocateur-index-B.jpgAgent Provocateur

Strip (2007)
Rose Passion Massage Oil (2007)
Agent Provocateur (2000)

dioscorides-Kyphi-index.jpg

Alchemy Works

Kyphi Oil


black-diamond-Index-B.jpgAmbregris

Ambre et Diamant Noir (2000)

American Beauty

Beloved Red Roses (2009)

Amouage_GoldFlasks-Index-B.jpgAmouage

Lyric for Man (2008)

Lyric for Woman (2008)

Reflection Pour Femme (2007)
Reflection Pour Homme (2007)


andre-gas-index.jpgAndré Gas

Ensoleille-Moi (2006)


andy-tauer-index-B.jpgAndy Tauer

Hyacinths and A Mechanic (2007) - The Journey Bottle Project
Lonestar Memories (2006)
Rêverie Au Jardin (2007)

chaperon-rouge-goutal-index.jpgAnnick Goutal

Le Muguet (2001/2012)

Mon Parfum Chéri par Camille (2011)

Ninfeo Mio (2010)

Un Matin d'Orage (2009)

Musc Nomade (2008)
Ambre Fétiche (2007/2008)
Myrrhe Ardente (2007/2008)
Encens Flamboyant (2007/2008)

Aquolina

Pink Sugar (2003)

giorgio-armani-index.jpgArmani

Acqua di Gioia (2010)

Acqua di Gioia (2010): Take 2, The Lifestyle Fragrance Review

Idole d'Armani (2009)

Armani Code Pour Femme (2006)

Emporio Armani Diamonds (2007)

aubrey_organics.jpgAubrey Organics

Musk - Musc

avon-calling-index.jpgAvon

Far Away Gold (2014)

Night Magic Evening Musk (ca.1980)

Outspoken by Fergie (2010)

Bond Girl 007 (2008)

Flower & Petal - Part 1 (2008) (2 mother & daughter perfumes)
Flower & Petal - Part 2 (2008)

Azzaro-couture-index.jpgAzzaro

Azzaro pour Homme (1978)

B-Letter-TSS.jpg

dovima-balenciaga-B.jpgBalenciaga

Rosabotanica (2014)

Balenciaga Paris (2010)
Ho Hang
La Fuite des Heures (1949)
Quadrille

pierre-BALMAIN-perfume-index.jpgBalmain

Extatic (2014)

Ambre Gris (2008)

La Môme (2007)
Balmain (1998)
Vent Vert (1945/1990)

Barbara Orbison

Pretty Woman (2010)

renoir-after-the-bath-index.jpgBath and Body Works

Warm Vanilla Sugar (2007)

Japanese Cherry Blossom (2007)

Twilight Woods (2009)

beckhams-fragrance-index.jpgBeckham

Intimately For Him (2006)
Intimately Beckham Night Men (2007/2008)
Intimately Beckham Night Women (2007/2008)

benefit-index.jpgBenefit Cosmetics

Crescent Row:

• Laugh With Me LeeLee

There's Something About Sofia

My Place Or Yours Gina (2009)



betsey-johnson-2-index.jpgBetsey Johnson

Betsey Johnson (2006)

beyoncé_pepsi.jpg

Beyoncé

Rise (2014)

Heat (2010)

I_Love_Bio.jpg

Bio' Rêve

Sensuelle (2008)

BOBBI_BROWN.jpg

Bobbi Brown

Almost Bare (2008)


coney_island_Bond_9.jpg Bond no9

Saks-en-Rose (2010)

Union Square (2008

Saks Fifth Avenue For Her (2007)

Saks Fifth Avenue For Him (2007)

Bryant Park (2007)

Coney Island (2007)

Fire Island (2006)

West Side (2006)


Borsari 1870

Rosa Thea

Violetta di Parma (1870)

Violetta Di Parma (1870) (in a nutshell)

Bottega Veneta

Bottega Veneta Eau de Parfum (2011)


Boucheron

Trouble

Bourbon French Parfums

Jasmine

Britney Spears

Circus Fantasy (2009)

Bruno Acampora

Blu (1974)

Bulgari

Mon Jasmin Noir

(2011)

Man (2010)

Omnia Crystalline (2004)
Rose Essentielle Eau de Parfum (2005)

Burt's Bees

Burt's Bees Cologne (2007)

By Kilian

Love & Tears, Surrender (2010)

Incense Oud (2011)

Rose Oud (2010)

Prelude To Love, Invitation (2008)

• Love: Les Ingénues (2007)
Beyond Love: Les Ingénues (2007)

Burberry

Burberry Body (2011)

Burberry Sport for Women and Men (2010)

Byredo

Baudelaire (2009)

Bal d'Afrique (2009)

C-letter-108-120-TSS.jpgCacharel

Anaïs Anaïs (1978)

Liberté (2007)
Amor Pour Homme (2006)

Calvin Klein

Man (2007)
CK IN2U for Her (2007)
CK IN2U for Him (2007)

Carol's Daughter

Mary J. Blige My Life (2010)

Carolina Herrera

212 Sexy for Women (2004)

pour-un-homme-ad-Index.jpg


Caron

Tubéreuse (2003)

Le Troisième Homme (1985)

Les Plus Belles Lavandes de Caron (2008)
Royal Bain de Champagne (1923)
Montaigne Eau de Parfum (2007)
Montaigne Eau de Toilette (1986-87)
Aimez-Moi (1996) (+ comparison with N'Aimez Que Moi)
Fleurs de Rocaille

(1933)

Cartier

So Pretty (1995)

Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) (2011)

Les Heures du Parfum L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) (2011)

Déclaration

Carven

Carven, L'Eau de Toilette (2014)

Carven, Le Parfum (2013)

Caswell-Massey

Dr. Hunter's Rosewater & Glycerine Hand Creme

Caudalie

Parfum Divin (2014)

Chanel

Bois des Îles (1926)

1932 (2013)

Coco Noir (2012)

Coco Noir Post-Scriptum (2012)

Bleu de Chanel (2010)

Chanel Eau de Cologne (2007) (English Version)

Chanel Les Exclusifs Eau de Cologne (2007) (Version française)

Chance Eau Tendre (2010)

Cristalle Eau Verte (2009)

Les Exclusifs: Overview 1
Les Exclusifs: Overview 2
Sycomore (2008)
31, Rue Cambon (2007)
Bel Respiro (2007)
No 18 (2007)
28 La Pausa
(2007)

Charriol

Imperial Saphir (2012)

Château de Versailles

MA Sillage de la Reine (2006)

Chloé

Love, Chloé Eau Florale (2013)

Néroli Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Capucine Eau de Fleurs (2010)

Chloé Eau de Parfum Intense (2009)

Chloé Eau de Parfum (2008)

Chopard

Cascade (2009)

Christina Aguilera

Inspire (2008)


Clean

Showerfresh


Clinique

• Beyond Rose (2014) (Middle-East Exclusive)

Wrappings (1990)

Aromatics Elixir The Perfumer's Reserve (2011) - Limited Edition

Aromatics Elixir Sheer Velvet
(2006)

Coach

Signature Summer 2012

Comme Des Garçons

Daphne Guinness Daphne (2009)

Stephen Jones EDP (2008)

H & M Limited Edition (2008)

Sweet Series: Nomad Tea (2005)
Red Series: Rose
(2001)

Compagnie de Provence

Anis Patchouli (2011)

Encens Lavande

(2009)

Comptoir Sud Pacifique

Cristal de Musc (1986)
Vanille Citrus
(2006)

Coty

Vanilla Musk (1994)

L'Origan - Poem-Review (1905)

Creed

Acqua Originale Asian Green Tea (2014)

Aventus (2010)

Love In Black (2008)

Virgin Island Water (2007)
Spring Flower (1951)
Orange Spice
(1950)



Crown Perfumery

Ess Bouquet

Maréchale 90

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Danielle Steel

Danielle Steel (2006)

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz

Wild Honeysuckle (spring 2007)
Tamarind Paprika
(Holiday 2007)

Des Filles A La Vanille

Garçon Manqué

Desperate Housewives

Forbidden Fruit (2006)

Diane Von Furstenberg

Diane (2011)

Dior

Gris Montaigne (2013)

Addict Eau Délice (2013)

Escale à Parati (2012)

Escale aux Marquises (2010)

Escale à Pondichéry (2009)

Escale à Portofino (2008)
Midnight Poison (2007)
Eau Sauvage (1966)
Eau Sauvage Fraîcheur Cuir (2007)
Fahrenheit 32 (2007)
J'Adore
Diorissimo
(1956)

Diptyque

Eau de Lavande Eau Florale (2014)

Geranium Odorata Eau Florale (2014)

Volutes (2012)

Eau Rose (2012)

34 Boulevard Saint Germain (2011)

Vétyvério (2010)

Jardin Clos (2003)

DKNY

Be Delicious City Blossom Rooftop Peony, Urban Violet & Empire Apple (2014)

PureDKNY (2010)

Dita Von Teese

Erotique (2013)

Dolce & Gabbana

Dolce (2014)

The One Desire (2013)

Rose The One (2009)

The One for Men (2008)

Donna Karan

Delicious Night (2007)

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Eau d'Italie Le Sirénuse

Baume du Doge (2008)

Magnolia Romana (2008)
Bois d'Ombrie (2006)
Paestum Rose (2006)
Sienne l'Hiver
(2006)

Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier

Love & Luck for Women (2008)

Love & Luck for Men (2008)

Ed Hardy for Men (2008)
Ed Hardy for Women
(2008)

Editions de Parfums - Frédéric Malle

Dries Van Noten par Frédéric Malle (2013)

Portrait of a Lady (2010)

Géranium pour Monsieur (2009)

En Passant (2000)

Dans Tes Bras (2008)
Carnal Flower
Iris Poudre (2000)
Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum
Musc Ravageur Oil

Elie Saab

Elie Saab Le Parfum (2011)

Elizabeth Arden

Green Tea Camellia (2011)

Pretty (2009)

Elizabeth Taylor

Violet Eyes (2010)

elizabethW

Vetiver
Lilac
Neroli & Chamomile
Leaves
Magnolia


Elsha

1776

Escada

Born in Paradise (2014)

Cherry in the Air (2013) Limited-Edition


Esteban

Belle au Parfum de Oud (2012)

Passion Brésil (2007)
Secrète Afrique (2006)
Sensuelle Russie (2006)
Tonka
(2006)

Estée Lauder

Modern Muse (2013)

Wood Mystique (2011)

Sensuous Noir (2010)

Private Collection Jasmine White Moss (2009)

Private Collection Amber Ylang Ylang (2008)

Sensuous (2008)
Pure White Linen Light Breeze (2008)
Bronze Goddess Eau Fraîche Skinscent (2008)
Pleasures Delight (2007)
Tom Ford Azurée Soleil Eau Fraiche/Skinscent (2007)
Private Collection (1973)
Tuberose Gardenia Private Collection (EDP) (2007)
Youth-Dew
(Blue Bottle 2008 re-edition)

Etat Libre d'Orange

Overview

Like This, Tilda Swinton (2010)

Tom of Finland (2008)

Noël au Balcon (2007)
Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection (2007)
Don't Get Me Wrong Baby, I Don't Swallow (2007)
Encens et Bubblegum (2006)
Sécrétions Magnifiques (2006)
Vierges et Toreros
(2006/2007)

Etro

Dianthus (2006)

Excelsis Fine Fragrances

The Pope's Cologne

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Fendi

L'Acquarossa (2013)

Fergie

Outspoken (2010)

Ferre

Eau de Cologne Ferrè Bergamotto Marino (2005)

Floris of London

Malmaison
Night Scented Jasmine

(2006)

Fragonard

Fragonard
Caresse
(1929/2008)
Billet Doux (2006 re-edition)

Frapin

L'Humaniste (2009)

Terre de Sarment (2007)
Caravelle Epicée (2007)
Passion Boisée (2007)
Esprit de Fleurs
(2007)

Fresh

Cannabis Rose (2008)

-Letter-TSS.jpg

Gap

Lavender Tea No. 362 (2007)
Coconut Tuberose No. 821
Mandarin Jasmine No. 094
Velvet Bloom No. 695
Washed Cotton No. 784
White Amber No. 541

Gemey

H pour Homme Titanium (1999)

Givenchy

EauDemoiselle (2010)

Harvest 2008: Ange et Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irrésistible Rosa Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Le De (1957-2007)
Vetyver
(1959-2007)

Gobin-Daudé

Sous Le Buis (Under The Boxwood) (2002)

Grès

Ambre de Cabochard (2007)
Cabaret
(2002)


Gucci

Première (2013)

Gucci Guilty for Men (2011)

Gucci Guilty for Women (2010)

Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme (2010)
Gucci by Gucci (2007)
Gucci Eau de Parfum (2002)
Gucci Pour Homme (2003)
Gucci Pour Homme II
(2007)


Guerlain

Jardins de Bagatelle, the reformulated version ca. 2014 (1983)

Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca (2013)

Aqua Allegoria Lys Soleia (2012)

Shalimar Parfum Initial L'Eau (2012)

Shalimar Parfum Initial (2011)

Vétiver pour Elle (2007)

Cologne du Parfumeur (2010)

Flora Nymphea (2010)

Idylle - Part 1 (2009)

Idylle - Part 2 (2009)

Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Mimosa & Cherry Blossom (2009)

Le Muguet - limited edition (2009)

La Petite Robe Noire (2009)

Jasmin (1924/1928)

Laurier-Réglisse (2008)

Figue-Iris (2008)

Cruel Gardenia Limited Edition (2008)

Vol de Nuit Evasion (2008) (LE)

Spiritueuse Double Vanille Limited Edition (2007)

L'Instant Magic (2007)

Insolence (2006)

Jardins de Bagatelle

Lights of Champs-Elysées (2006)

Mayotte (2006)

Mahora (2001)

Mitsouko (1919 followed by reformulations)

Pamplelune (1998)

Sous Le Vent (2006 re-edition)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999)

Terracotta Voile d'Eté (1999) (Version Française)

Eau de Cologne Impériale (1850s)

Jicky (1889) - Jicky and Gender

Après L'Ondée (1906)


Guess

Guess by Marciano (2008)

-Letter-TSS.jpg

Halle Berry

Exotic Jasmine (2013)

Hampton Sun

Privet Bloom (edp) (2007)

Hanae Mori

Magical Moon (2006)

Harney & Sons (Tea)

Peach Ginger Twist
Valentine's Blend
(2008)

Helena Rubinstein

Wanted (2009)

Hermès

Eau de Mandarine Ambrée (2013)

Eau de Narcisse Bleu (2013)

L'Ambre des Merveilles (2012)

Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011)

Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010)

Voyage d'Hermès (2010)

Eau d'Hermès (1951)

Kelly Calèche Eau de Parfum (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 1 (Hermessence Collection) (2009)

Vanille Galante - Part 2 (2009)

Un Jardin Après La Mousson (2008)
Brin de Réglisse (Hermessence Collection) (2007)
Rocabar
(1998)

Hilary Duff

With Love (2006)

Histoires de Parfums

Petroleum (2011)

Moulin Rouge 1889 (2009)

1740, Le Marquis de Sade
Noir Patchouli

Houbigant

Quelques Fleurs L'Original (1912 / 2009)

HSH Prince Nicolo Boncompagni Ludovisi

L'Aurora (2009)

Humiecki & Graef

Skarb - Part 1 (2007)
Skarb
- Part 2 (2007)

PERFUME HOUSES A to H Archive

Latest Comments

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on Ho Hang by Balenciaga {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week} : What an exotic way to wear Ho Hang :) It adds to ...

Gail on Ho Hang by Balenciaga {Perfume Review & Musings} {Men's Cologne of the Week} : Having been a flight attendant traveling all over the world. Found Ho ...

CathyG on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : I also used Santana Musk oil back in the 70s. It was ...

wilhelmina on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : The sale's associate at Macy's sprayed my wrist with Jessica Simpson-signature. The ...

Chantal-Hélène Wagner on More News on Lady Gaga Eau de Gaga (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Thank you - marketing is so fluid, it's scary :)

Private information on More News on Lady Gaga Eau de Gaga (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} : Hello, just learned the ad photo from the Fame Black Fluid shooting. ...

Mark on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Definitely! The Satana Musk of the early 70's was in a small ...

Krissy on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : I found my bottle at Ulta, it was the last one and ...

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Guest on Jessica Simpson The Signature Fragrance (2014) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Perfume} : Where can you get the 1-oz. edp spray??? I have been looking ...

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