October 18, 2007

Perfumer Ernest Shiftan {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Ernest Shiftan (1903-1975) in his time was a renowned perfumer working for IFF with a reputation in particular for being an excellent mentor to younger perfumers. Sophia Grojsman for example was trained under him. Despite the recognition by his peers that he was a great perfumer in the tradition of American perfumery, little data is immediately available concerning his career and creations, apparently in great part due to secretive practices that were even more dominant in the industry then than now. But also, it might be hypothesized, due to the possibility that he might have operated as a supervisor and collaborator on a number of perfume creations rather than as their sole author. We encounter again the tricky issue of ascribing authorship clearly in perfumery and some perfumers - it must be noted - do not even think that it really constitute an issue. In 1974, a newspaper article presented him as "a senior vice-president and chemist at IFF."

His creations include: Offrande by Cheramy (1925) (with Paul Schving), Youth Dew (1952) (with Josephine Catapano - not all sources mention him), Le De by Givenchy (1957), Norell by Norell (1967-1968) (with Josephine Catapano - not all sources mention him), Island Promises by Fragrance of the Bahamas Ltd. (ca.1970),.....

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October 11, 2007

Perfumer Sophie Labbé {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers} {Scented Quote of the Day}

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Sophie Labbé is a senior perfumer at IFF, which she joined in 1992.

Studied at: She studied at ISIPCA (graduated the first of her class) and then at the internal school of Givaudan. She was the recipient in 2005 of the prestigious François Coty prize and was the first woman to receive this distinction. It was also a first for IFF.

Creations include: Romeo Gigli G de Gigli (1994), Jardin de Soleil d'Escada, Organza de Givenchy (1996), Emporio Armani pour Homme, Boss Woman d’Hugo Boss, Premier jour de Nina Ricci (2005), Cacharel Promesse (With Carlos Benaïm of IFF) (2005).......

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August 1, 2007

Perfumer Alberto Morillas {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Alberto Morillas was born in Seville in 1950. He has worked for Firmenich since the beginning of his career. In 2003 he received the recently established, yet already prestigious François Coty Award and in 2005 the Prix Guerlain (see below). He has an extensive and impressive body of works and list of international commercial successes. He is also the creator and owner of a line of scented candles called Mizensir.

Studied at: The master-perfume is largely self-taught. Morillas has an atypical background in arts, as he studied initially at the School of Beaux-Arts of Geneva. He was trained in perfumery at the internal school of Firmenich.  

Creations include: Salvador Dali Salvador Dali (1983), Cartier Panthère (1987), Cartier Must II (1993), Calvin Klein CK One (1994) (with Harry Fremont and artistic director Ann Gottlieb), Armani Acqua di Gio pour Homme (1996), Estée Lauder Pleasures (1996),.......

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July 31, 2007

Perfumer Anne Flipo {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Anne Flipo is a perfumer who works for IFF (International Flavors and Fragrances). She is the author of a large body of works that covers a wide range of perfumes found in different segments of the market, from niche to design, to pharmacy and supermarket shelves. She has collaborated numerous times with L'Artisan Parfumeur (not all of her AP perfumes are listed here).

Studied at: 

Creations include: L'Artisan Parfumeur Mimosa Pour Moi (1992), Jacques Fath Yin (1997), L'Artisan Parfumeur La Chasse Aux Papillons (1999), Trussardi Skin (2002).....

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July 30, 2007

Perfumer & Artistic Director François Demachy {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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François Demachy was born in 1949 in Grasse. He is both a perfumer and a "super artistic director" for olfactory development at LVMH ( Louis Vuitton Moët Hennessy) since 2006, which oversees brands like Guerlain, Dior, Kenzo, Givenchy, Acqua di Parma, Loewe, Pucci, Fendi. Before that he worked for 29 years at Chanel where he created most of the Chanel fragrance successes with Jacques Polge, although he is less well known to the public than his colleague This perception or lack thereof has started to change since his appointment at LVMH.

Studied at: Ecole de Parfumerie de la Société Charabot

Mentor: perfumer Henri Robert, author of Chanel no 19......

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July 29, 2007

Perfumer Daniela (Roche) Andrier {Scented Quote of the Day} {Directory of Perfumers, Artistic Directors, & Fragrance Designers}

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Perfumer Daniela Andrier works for Givaudan and is, incidentally, the wife of its CEO, Gilles Andrier. She is also known under the names Daniela Roche and Daniela Roche-Andrier.

Studied at: Ecole de Parfumerie Givaudan 

Creations include: La Perla Io by La Perla (1995), Kenzo Le Monde (1997), Gucci Eau de Parfum by Gucci (2002), Attraction by Lancôme (2003) (with Christian Biecher) (Fifi awards France & Europe).....

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