The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


September 29, 2009

J. Palazzolo Son Est. 1898, a Long-Island, New-York Perfumer {Spotlight on a Brand}


palazzolo-perfumer.jpgAfter writing about the Krigler Perfumer house yesterday, I was reminded of another perfume house with roots in New York which is virtually unknown not just by the larger public but by perfumistas as well, as far as I can tell. I happened on the name a couple of years ago in an article about the perfumers of Italy and discovered that an Italian-American perfume brand J. Palazzolo Son had been in existence since 1898. It was started in the Lower East Side of New York City at the end of the 19th century as a barber shop established by Joseph Palazzolo who had immigrated from Sicily in 1892; it is now located in Long Island. The business is still family-owned but as evolved into a "private formula contract manufacturing service." Without having had the opportunity to try their fragrances, one thing still comes across their online display: this is a delightfully old-fashioned label with perfumes that are steeped in romantic stories and in which the theme of love betrayed and vengeance is a favorite. Their star fragrance Contessa Azzura (1926), a spicy floral bouquet, has the resonance of a Verdi opera,

"Her eyes were the color of an Alpine sky, yet she was Italian as Rome itself. Her lover was a Captain in the palace guard...until her husband, the Count, discovered their affair. The captain's fate is best not told. As to the Contessa, the only visitors allowed her in the lonely tower room were women. No man ever again fell under the spell of those deep blue eyes..." 

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September 28, 2009

Krigler New York City Perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand} {New Perfumes}


Krigler-Perfumes.jpgKrigler is a New-York based perfume brand taking pride in having been established as far back as in 1904 in the city of Saint Petersburg in Russia before the torments of the revolution which led the Kriglers to take flight. The house boasts a catalog of more than 200 perfumes that were created over the past decades of the 20th century. What is a characteristic trait of the house is the geographic inspiration for their fragrances as each and everyone of them are attached to different, evocative locales in Europe and the USA, reflecting the peregrinations of the Krigler family from the Russian empire to Berlin then going through Monte Carlo, Cap d'Antibes, Paris, and finally New York. There are new creations as well inclusive of yet more exotic locales like India and Japan. Krigler reopened this year at the Plaza Hotel in NYC.

It is hard to gauge independently what was the history of the brand because no immediate historical records seem to have kept their name. According to some French perfumistas, they were available at the Bon Marché a couple of years ago. 

Sparkling Diamond 22 is a nectar de Champagne and strawberry blend enlivened visually by the presence of Swarovski crystals in the bottle. It is a reminder of the original gesture by one of the Kriglers who once dropped a diamond in a Champagne bottle in Monte Carlo in 1922.

The numbers on the flacons refer to the year of creation of the scent it houses...

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September 9, 2009

Poo-Pourri Before-You-Go Bathroom Sprays: Poo-Pourri Original, Royal Flush, heavenSCENT, No2 & the latest, Organic Nature's Call {Spotlight on a Brand} {New Perfume}


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Poo-Pourri is a quirky -- well, maybe not so quirky since their products seem to correspond to a profound need and to tap into an emotional well -- deodorizer label that specializes in attacking those odors that are commonly thought to be both obnoxious and embarrassing. One thing you can say about them is that they are not afraid of venturing where few before them have treaded. Thus they target soiled diapers, smelly pets, stale cars and most of all they propose a collection of spray scents for those who are hyper-conscious about leaving a scatological trail behind them in shared bathroom spaces. Their eloquently-named Before-You-Go bathroom sprays promise to "...create a film on the surface of the water, trapping odor at its source."...

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September 7, 2009

All The Perfumes by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: A Diverse, Creative Catalog: Aqua Universalis, Les Colognes, Lumiere Noire, APOM, Les Bulles d'Agathe... {New Fragrances}


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We have the skinny on the complete catalog of fragrances of the new Parisian perfume house established by nose Francis Kurkdjian baptized Maison Francis Kurkdjian. The flagship store opened yesterday 5, rue d'Alger, 75001 Paris.

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But first, here is what the perfumer had to say to explain the concept of what a "house" is to him,

J'ai choisi d'apposer le mot Maison devant mon pa-

tronyme. Ce n'est pas un effet de style, mais une ma-

nière d'exprimer ce que je ressens ; une maison a une

âme et une histoire, elle a ses habitants, ses amis et

aussi ses enfants. Toutes ces émotions qui m'habitent

sont réunies sous ce même mot et animées par un

même rêve : faire de mes grands bonheurs les petits

plaisirs des autres.


"I have chosen to put the word Maison next to my family name. This is not meant to be a stylistic effect but is a way of expressing what I feel. A house has a soul and a history, it has its dwellers, friends and also its children. All these emotions that are contained in me are gathered under this same name and brought to life by the same dream: to turn my great moments of happiness into the small pleasures of others"...

Continue reading "All The Perfumes by Maison Francis Kurkdjian: A Diverse, Creative Catalog: Aqua Universalis, Les Colognes, Lumiere Noire, APOM, Les Bulles d'Agathe... {New Fragrances} " »

August 14, 2009

Delle Grazie Paris Rouge Chapitre 1 (2008): "The Scent of Diamonds" {Spotlight on a Brand}


delle-grazie-paris-rouge.jpghans-buhringer-die-hard.jpgDelle Grazie is the brainchild of Dr. Hans Buringer or Buhringer presented as a prominent biochemist, inventor of the Unsuit, a tan-through bathing suit, and a former actor in Die Hard where he was Fritz (seen on the right) now turned director. Delle Grazie is a reference to an aristocratic family who was powerful in 15th century Venice. Paris Rouge Chapitre 1 is the first installment in a series of 7 perfumes that will retell the story of an extraordinary woman perfumer in turn of century Paris, at other times also living during the art deco period (never mind, Delle Grazie is not stingy with historical references). The scent is infused with lithotherapeutic properties (like Shock by Rubino Cosmetics) thanks to treated and infused diamonds. And this is only the tip of the iceberg because Paris Rouge has even more stories to tell than that. May I say that this is the most unbriddled, over-the-top (but fun it's so out there) advertisement for a perfume that I have ever read?

Paris Rouge, "The Scent of Diamonds", is the worlds first magical perfume by Delle Grazie, infused with energized diamonds during the maceration of the fragrance, by the secrete principles of Leonardo Da Vinci, to create the perfume's positive charge of hope, love and peace ...

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January 14, 2009

Didier Ludot, Ludot Eau de Parfum {Spotlight on a Brand}


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Didier Ludot is known both as a vintage fashion expert and a designer. He is also the author of a book on the iconic LBD, entitled after it and available both in French and English. I leafed through it entirely at Urban Outfitters once as it is a slim tome. So infatuated is he with the concept that he created a chain of stores called La Petite Robe Noire which you can find in Europe, the USA and Asia.

In Paris, he has a shop located Galerie de Valois at the Palais Royal in Paris right across the garden from the Salons Shiseido where the exclusive Serge Lutens fragrances are housed in the close vicinity of Les Parfums de Rosine, and a little farther afield, Les Parfums de Nicolaï. A common point that Ludot has with these brands is fragrance as one perfume stands lone in the window display amongst the shoes, belts, accessories and clothing...

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August 2, 2008

Profumi d'Autore by Lorenzo Dante Ferro {Spotlight on a Brand}

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Maestro Profumiere Lorenzo Dante Ferro is a little-known - by the wider public - independent Italian perfumer whose perfume house, Profumi d'Autore (Author's Perfumes) was founded in 1982 after an international stint in the corporate world of fragrance in Grasse, Zurich, New York, London, and Paris. 

The main concept of the brand with its book-publishing references follows the same intuition as that of Editions de Parfums by Frédéric Malle, which was established nearly two decades later in 2000, except that here it is a one-man show centering on Dante Ferro's work while the latter proposes perfumes by several perfumer-authors.

It is about the same idea that certain fragrances can be considered not just as fashion accessories but as works reflecting an intellectual and artistic process and to be enjoyed similarly, by devoting mental energy to understanding them rather than just saying "Hmmm, it smells good (or bad)" or "I like it (or don't like it)". The perfume house is also very much characterized by its respect for the historical tradition of Italian perfumery - the Venetian one in particular - an interesting element to take into account in one's approach to the brand when one is more accustomed to thinking about Florence or Rome or Parma when pondering the topic of Italian fragrances...

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July 18, 2008

The Party Fragrance The Party in Manhattan (2007) & The Ten {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand}


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The Party Fragrance is a very confidential Italian perfume brand (only 2 Italian internet sources mention it) that Roja Dove had indirectly mentioned previously on this site in an interview he gave to TSS last year. He had said that a new fragrance called The Party had been launched and was to be released in the fall of 2007. Then, no further particulars surfaced and I promptly forgot about it.

Serendipity made me happen on the brand's site which actually carries two fragrances, The Ten (not to be confused with The Knize Ten) and the more recent one, The Party in Manhattan.

First of all, the website is a pleasure to visit: it is atmospheric and sleek recreating an ambiance from the 1920s to the 1930s with the languorous jazz music playing on into the night. The flacons, especially the one for The Party, is an ultra-glam art-deco recreation and you are ready to fall in love with the perfume just by looking at the way it is so charmingly and luxuriously showcased. The name is also great...


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April 14, 2008

Parfums Lucien Lelong {Spotlight on a Brand} {Shopping Tip}

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You may be looking for alternate perfume brands and be part of a group of perfume lovers that deplore the vanishing of vintage-styled fragrances with their femme-fatale angle. Here is a shopping suggestion: go visit the Parfums Lucien Lelong e-commerce website and rediscover such classics as Indiscret launched in 1935 and re-created in 1997 respecting as much as possible the old formula, or the newly introduced Lelong Pour Femme in 1999 that pays homage to the couturier's sense of luxury and glamor.

Parfums Lucien Lelong was established as far back as 1924 and in the very beginning their perfumes were named after alphabet letters, A, B, C, J, N, in a search for abstraction and modernity just like for Chanel's numbered fragrances .....

 

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A 1944 advert for Sirocco from Feb Vogue, Vintage Ads 4 U
 

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April 8, 2008

Réserve Naturelle Line of Perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand}

 

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Réserve Naturelle is a brand of beauty and perfume products that proposes fragrances in cheerful packagings at low prices. The flacons bear the tag line "Artisan Eau de Toilette", promising a traditional multi-secular know-how.

As it turns out from discussions on French perfume forums, they are for the most part a line of dupe perfumes....

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March 14, 2008

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke: "Perfume Art. Nothing Else" {Spotlight on a Brand}

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biehl. parfumkunstwerke is a cosmopolitan German Hamburg-based perfume house with roots in New York city which was created last year by veteran fragrance developer Thorsten Biehl who is also the son of perfumer Henning Biehl.

The motto of the new perfume house is "Perfume art. Nothing else". In keeping with this demanding purist approach, the collection of 13 inaugural perfumes were designed by 6 perfumers who were given maximum creative freedom by Thorsten Biehl acting like a perfume editor in the vein of Frederic Malle (see next an interview released by the house with perfumer Egon Oelkers who offers insights into the process).....  

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December 2, 2007

Déjà Vu, Déjà Vu Rodin, Déjà Vu David & Venus, Déjà Vu 2, Déjà Vu Gay by Rothenstein Parfums {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand} {Fragrance News}

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We happened by chance on the site of a perfume brand that is very little known. We were not able to find one press article about them.

Rothenstein Parfums is a fragrance house offering several collections of perfumes and seems better publicized in Germany as they are succintly cited on German websites although they reportedly hail from France. Among their different lines, one in particular is intriguing, the Déjà Vu collection of fragrances dedicated to the art of love with references going from tantric love to homosexual love in passing by a homage paid to the famous sculpture by Rodin, Le Baiser -The Kiss. The flacons are each surmounted by a sculpture.

The perfumes were created by some renowned and lesser-known French perfumers including Francis Camail (Balmain Ivoire, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien, Réminiscence Patchouli, Bond No. 9 Little Italy) Anne Flipo, Paulette Laropoli, Jean-Paul Thebault........

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October 24, 2007

Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, & Inlé in Les Echappées collection by Memo {New Perfumes} {Spotlight on a Brand}

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Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, Inlé, each 50 ml flacon, 80 € or US $113.80

A new Parisian niche perfumery called Memo will open its doors on November 15 2007, rue des Saint-Pères, Paris 6ème, Tel: 01-42-22-96-63. Its founder is Clara Molloy who wanted to create a line dedicated to translating very special travel places into perfumes. For so doing she recruited the talents of perfumer Aliénor Massenet of IFF (Viktor & Rolf Antidote, with Pierre Wargnye). Four perfumes called Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, and Inlé are the results of this collaboration........

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October 23, 2007

A New Perfume Label is Born: Rebel Ambush, Utopian, Frankfurt Kitchen by Social Creatures {New Perfumes} {Spotlight on a Brand}

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 Rebel Ambush Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, £140 or US $ 286.75

Social Creatures is a new England-based indie perfume label founded by Russel Newell and operated with the help of family and friends, all endowed with artistic talents. The brand wants to express in perfumes art concepts and ethical concerns about the world of the 21st century,

“I am an optimist and hopeful about the future. I believe that human beings have an immense capacity to do good. My scents are designed to be a reminder of this to those who wear or come into contact with them. Scent is something that is both very personal to the wearer yet shared with others.” - Russell Newell. ......

Utopian Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, £140 or US $ 286.75

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Continue reading "A New Perfume Label is Born: Rebel Ambush, Utopian, Frankfurt Kitchen by Social Creatures {New Perfumes} {Spotlight on a Brand}" »

September 30, 2007

B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful.... & to choose from 9 perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand}

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B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful is the very explicit and programmatic name for a beauty brand that is an extension of Lush but developed according to the laws of a different universe, those of a giant dressing table as seen through the eyes of a child,

“The inspiration had come from playing at my aunty penny’s dressing table as a child and I wanted to recreate that playfulness and fun” says Rowena Bird, B’s co-founder “we wanted to create a brand which would become desirably collectable in years to come and that customers would have a passion for collecting, so I spent a long time investigating different forms of packaging from all over the world and it was in India and Morocco that I found the biggest inspirations........
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September 28, 2007

Monotheme {Spotlight on a Brand} {Shopping Tips}

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Monotheme fine fragrances Venezia carries a large number of fragrances at reasonable prices. Amongst others, they offer a line of perfumes in their Classic Fragrance collection which are based for their main inspiration on a single note to start with although the compositions are slightly more complex. The perfumes were created to be especially long-lasting. Their classic touch is underlined by the packaging which evokes an old-fashioned sense of apothecary charm........

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