January 14, 2009

Didier Ludot, Ludot Eau de Parfum {Spotlight on a Brand}


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Didier Ludot is known both as a vintage fashion expert and a designer. He is also the author of a book on the iconic LBD, entitled after it and available both in French and English. I leafed through it entirely at Urban Outfitters once as it is a slim tome. So infatuated is he with the concept that he created a chain of stores called La Petite Robe Noire which you can find in Europe, the USA and Asia.

In Paris, he has a shop located Galerie de Valois at the Palais Royal in Paris right across the garden from the Salons Shiseido where the exclusive Serge Lutens fragrances are housed in the close vicinity of Les Parfums de Rosine, and a little farther afield, Les Parfums de Nicolaï. A common point that Ludot has with these brands is fragrance as one perfume stands lone in the window display amongst the shoes, belts, accessories and clothing...

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August 2, 2008

Profumi d'Autore by Lorenzo Dante Ferro {Spotlight on a Brand}

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Maestro Profumiere Lorenzo Dante Ferro is a little-known - by the wider public - independent Italian perfumer whose perfume house, Profumi d'Autore (Author's Perfumes) was founded in 1982 after an international stint in the corporate world of fragrance in Grasse, Zurich, New York, London, and Paris. 

The main concept of the brand with its book-publishing references follows the same intuition as that of Editions de Parfums by Frédéric Malle, which was established nearly two decades later in 2000, except that here it is a one-man show centering on Dante Ferro's work while the latter proposes perfumes by several perfumer-authors.

It is about the same idea that certain fragrances can be considered not just as fashion accessories but as works reflecting an intellectual and artistic process and to be enjoyed similarly, by devoting mental energy to understanding them rather than just saying "Hmmm, it smells good (or bad)" or "I like it (or don't like it)". The perfume house is also very much characterized by its respect for the historical tradition of Italian perfumery - the Venetian one in particular - an interesting element to take into account in one's approach to the brand when one is more accustomed to thinking about Florence or Rome or Parma when pondering the topic of Italian fragrances...

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July 18, 2008

The Party Fragrance The Party in Manhattan (2007) & The Ten {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand}


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The Party Fragrance is a very confidential Italian perfume brand (only 2 Italian internet sources mention it) that Roja Dove had indirectly mentioned previously on this site in an interview he gave to TSS last year. He had said that a new fragrance called The Party had been launched and was to be released in the fall of 2007. Then, no further particulars surfaced and I promptly forgot about it.

Serendipity made me happen on the brand's site which actually carries two fragrances, The Ten (not to be confused with The Knize Ten) and the more recent one, The Party in Manhattan.

First of all, the website is a pleasure to visit: it is atmospheric and sleek recreating an ambiance from the 1920s to the 1930s with the languorous jazz music playing on into the night. The flacons, especially the one for The Party, is an ultra-glam art-deco recreation and you are ready to fall in love with the perfume just by looking at the way it is so charmingly and luxuriously showcased. The name is also great...


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April 14, 2008

Parfums Lucien Lelong {Spotlight on a Brand} {Shopping Tip}

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You may be looking for alternate perfume brands and be part of a group of perfume lovers that deplore the vanishing of vintage-styled fragrances with their femme-fatale angle. Here is a shopping suggestion: go visit the Parfums Lucien Lelong e-commerce website and rediscover such classics as Indiscret launched in 1935 and re-created in 1997 respecting as much as possible the old formula, or the newly introduced Lelong Pour Femme in 1999 that pays homage to the couturier's sense of luxury and glamor.

Parfums Lucien Lelong was established as far back as 1924 and in the very beginning their perfumes were named after alphabet letters, A, B, C, J, N, in a search for abstraction and modernity just like for Chanel's numbered fragrances .....

 

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A 1944 advert for Sirocco from Feb Vogue, Vintage Ads 4 U
 

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April 8, 2008

Réserve Naturelle Line of Perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand}

 

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Réserve Naturelle is a brand of beauty and perfume products that proposes fragrances in cheerful packagings at low prices. The flacons bear the tag line "Artisan Eau de Toilette", promising a traditional multi-secular know-how.

As it turns out from discussions on French perfume forums, they are for the most part a line of dupe perfumes....

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March 14, 2008

Biehl Parfumkunstwerke: "Perfume Art. Nothing Else" {Spotlight on a Brand}

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biehl. parfumkunstwerke is a cosmopolitan German Hamburg-based perfume house with roots in New York city which was created last year by veteran fragrance developer Thorsten Biehl who is also the son of perfumer Henning Biehl.

The motto of the new perfume house is "Perfume art. Nothing else". In keeping with this demanding purist approach, the collection of 13 inaugural perfumes were designed by 6 perfumers who were given maximum creative freedom by Thorsten Biehl acting like a perfume editor in the vein of Frederic Malle (see next an interview released by the house with perfumer Egon Oelkers who offers insights into the process).....  

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December 2, 2007

Déjà Vu, Déjà Vu Rodin, Déjà Vu David & Venus, Déjà Vu 2, Déjà Vu Gay by Rothenstein Parfums {Spotlight on a Perfume Brand} {Fragrance News}

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We happened by chance on the site of a perfume brand that is very little known. We were not able to find one press article about them.

Rothenstein Parfums is a fragrance house offering several collections of perfumes and seems better publicized in Germany as they are succintly cited on German websites although they reportedly hail from France. Among their different lines, one in particular is intriguing, the Déjà Vu collection of fragrances dedicated to the art of love with references going from tantric love to homosexual love in passing by a homage paid to the famous sculpture by Rodin, Le Baiser -The Kiss. The flacons are each surmounted by a sculpture.

The perfumes were created by some renowned and lesser-known French perfumers including Francis Camail (Balmain Ivoire, Annick Goutal Eau d'Hadrien, Réminiscence Patchouli, Bond No. 9 Little Italy) Anne Flipo, Paulette Laropoli, Jean-Paul Thebault........

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October 24, 2007

Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, & Inlé in Les Echappées collection by Memo {New Perfumes} {Spotlight on a Brand}

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Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, Inlé, each 50 ml flacon, 80 € or US $113.80

A new Parisian niche perfumery called Memo will open its doors on November 15 2007, rue des Saint-Pères, Paris 6ème, Tel: 01-42-22-96-63. Its founder is Clara Molloy who wanted to create a line dedicated to translating very special travel places into perfumes. For so doing she recruited the talents of perfumer Aliénor Massenet of IFF (Viktor & Rolf Antidote, with Pierre Wargnye). Four perfumes called Siwa, Lalibela, Sundance, and Inlé are the results of this collaboration........

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October 23, 2007

A New Perfume Label is Born: Rebel Ambush, Utopian, Frankfurt Kitchen by Social Creatures {New Perfumes} {Spotlight on a Brand}

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 Rebel Ambush Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, £140 or US $ 286.75

Social Creatures is a new England-based indie perfume label founded by Russel Newell and operated with the help of family and friends, all endowed with artistic talents. The brand wants to express in perfumes art concepts and ethical concerns about the world of the 21st century,

“I am an optimist and hopeful about the future. I believe that human beings have an immense capacity to do good. My scents are designed to be a reminder of this to those who wear or come into contact with them. Scent is something that is both very personal to the wearer yet shared with others.” - Russell Newell. ......

Utopian Eau de Toilette, 100 ml, £140 or US $ 286.75

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September 30, 2007

B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful.... & to choose from 9 perfumes {Spotlight on a Brand}

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B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful is the very explicit and programmatic name for a beauty brand that is an extension of Lush but developed according to the laws of a different universe, those of a giant dressing table as seen through the eyes of a child,

“The inspiration had come from playing at my aunty penny’s dressing table as a child and I wanted to recreate that playfulness and fun” says Rowena Bird, B’s co-founder “we wanted to create a brand which would become desirably collectable in years to come and that customers would have a passion for collecting, so I spent a long time investigating different forms of packaging from all over the world and it was in India and Morocco that I found the biggest inspirations........
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September 28, 2007

Monotheme {Spotlight on a Brand} {Shopping Tips}

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Monotheme fine fragrances Venezia carries a large number of fragrances at reasonable prices. Amongst others, they offer a line of perfumes in their Classic Fragrance collection which are based for their main inspiration on a single note to start with although the compositions are slightly more complex. The perfumes were created to be especially long-lasting. Their classic touch is underlined by the packaging which evokes an old-fashioned sense of apothecary charm........

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