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Perfume Shorts Archive

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January 19, 2010

Mally: The Fragrance (2009): Sampaguita or Gamma-Decalactone Fantasy Tropical Soliflore {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}


Mally-EDP.jpgMally Roncal is a makeup artist to celebrities, the likes of Beyoncé, Angelina Jolie, Jennifer Lopez and many more. She launched a cosmetics line which she sells on QVC and Mally Beauty. She also founded a company called Mally Girl. The beauty entrepreneur last fall added a perfume to her lineup of beauty products in October 2009. Mally:The Fragrance is presented as a homage paid to the Sampaguita the national flower of the Philippines, the home country of Mally. The bloom might be better known in the US under its other names, pikake and jasmine sambac...

Continue reading "Mally: The Fragrance (2009): Sampaguita or Gamma-Decalactone Fantasy Tropical Soliflore {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

January 17, 2010

Issey Miyake A Scent (2009): Green Spa Tranquillity {Perfume Review}


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December 14, 2009

Etat Libre D'Orange Noel au Balcon (2007) {Perfume Review}


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Noël au Balcon (lit. Christmas at the Balcony) was initially issued for the Holidays 2007 as a limited-edition fragrance. It has now been included in the permanent collection of Parisian niche perfume house Etat Libre d'Orange. With Christmas 2009 approaching, I thought it might be practical to review it in the period of Advent to see what spirit of the Holidays it might contain and also perhaps to see why a seasonal offering was deemed generalist enough to be worn all year round.

The name of the fragrance which may sound a bit puzzling is a play upon two different expressions: "Noël au balcon, Pâques au tison" + "Il y a du monde au balcon." The first locution means: if the weather is mild enough to be standing outside on the balcony at Christmas time, then Easter time will be spent by the fireplace as one can predict that spring will be cold. The second expression, meaning literally, "there are folks at the balcony", is actually a racy comment on the appearance of a lady endowed with a generous bosom...

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November 18, 2009

Glade Limited-Edition Holidays Candles: Pomegranate & Cranberries, Fresh Pine & Cedar {Home Fragrance Reviews}

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The Glade folks sent me a couple of their new candles, namely Pomegranate & Cranberries, Fresh Pine & Cedar and Jasmine & Wild Orchid from The Fragrance Collection. I haven't tried the latter yet but thought better to plan ahead for the Holidays. So, I wanted to let you know that I think that especially Pomegranate & Cranberries is a great choice for an affordable, festive holiday-feeling candle and not just because it is colored red. Fresh Pine & Cedar, which I thought at first would be wafting more of the note of Christmas turned out to be less atmospheric than Pomegranate & Cranberries.

The first one is very good, even great - I would offer it to friends and family or recommend it -  the other one, good - I would smell it and find it pleasant but would not buy it myself or recommend it over other candles necessarily and I will explain why...

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October 28, 2009

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng: A Different Kind of Green {Perfume Review}


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I have been eager to try the perfume named Fo-Ti-Tieng by Marilyn Miglin for the longest of times (in the very fast internet age) but was able to procure it only recently. Life. The buzz it has created in HSN customers' reviews made it possible to bring it back from the island of the dead. Originally launched in 2006 as one of the Pheromone Seven Sacred Oils recreated by Miglin's team based on "papyrus research" for Tutankhamun and the Golden Age of the Pharaohs at the Field Museum, it elicited so many positive reactions that no business person with common sense and especially one with a humanitarian bent like Marilyn Miglin could let pass this opportunity. The customers would have got really mad.

Fo-Ti-Tieng or Fo-Ti-Tien is the Chinese name for what is more commonly known to health aisles habitués as Gotu-Kola and scientifically recorded by pharmacists as Centella Asiatica.

There are not many American perfumes with a Chinese name. In fact, right now I can only think of Xia-Xiang by Revlon (1987). Even Lucky Number 6 by Liz Clairborne has everything Chinese about it but the name. Calling a scent Fo-Ti-Tieng (Elixir of Long Life), one which is then touted as an ancient aphrodisiac makes the concoction, if I could only see it behind the opaque glass, seem even deeper and more mysterious...

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October 26, 2009

The Body Shop Love Etc. (2009): Milky Fruity-Floral with a Mint or Fir Twist {Perfume Review}


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What the US website of The Body Shop says,

"If you love being enveloped in a captivating fragrance which inspires you, you will love this fragrance with its sensuous union of iconic feminine jasmine, with indulgent notes of vanilla, sandalwood and musk cream. Especially created by The Body Shop with one of the world's finest "noses", Dominique Ropion, even the name chosen signifies love in all its forms. You don't have to change the world wearing this fragrance, but you will love that this is the first Eau de Parfum to feature an alcohol perfume base created from an ingredient which is fairly-traded and organic."


The initial impression offered by Love Etc. by The Body Shop, their latest perfume launch, is that it is powdery and fruity-succulent (pear, fruity jasmine) with more than a hint of mint. Mint is not listed in the notes, but lily of the valley is, which presents in its natural state an icy-cold facet. Perhaps mint was used to convey this impression as the scent of lilies of the valley has to be recreated by perfumery means rather than extracted from nature. Then the underlying vanilla bed expands its presence. And always, there is this Alpine freshness appearing like an evergreen tree atop a slope covered with white powdery snow.

This cold, minty streak provides lightness and airiness to the mix and makes the perfume feel more cloud-like, like an upper layer that would have mushroomed above the warm vanilla oriental base and would be attached to it by a slim thread rather than squarely resting on it.

It also helps disguise a bit some more pedestrian musky amber in the bottom of the composition....

Continue reading "The Body Shop Love Etc. (2009): Milky Fruity-Floral with a Mint or Fir Twist {Perfume Review}" »

October 23, 2009

Perfume Cravings In The Fall: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits {Fragrance List} {Perfume Reviews}


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Vertumnus by Arcimboldo, 1591

Here is a List of Fall Perfumes I compiled last year in the beginning of November 2008 and which did not make it to the blog, somehow. I then felt an urge to wax poetically fragrant about squashes, orange-colored leaves, figs, prunes, and all that procession of good things that make up the autumn season and its festivities. After that I went into hibernation or rather the list decided to hibernate.

I completed it today and added two perfumes that were not out last year. I also took out several to leave us with a list of 13 cornucopia perfumes for fall 2009. They are of course the Best and the Top and the Must-Try and everybody's potential Favorites of the season (this is just to attract your attention, take it with a grain of salt). No but really, they are the Best!

So I said this on November 2, 2008 as the weather was inspiring me,

With the first genuine autumnal chill in the air, the one that does not just feel just plain cold, sharp and intrusive at the end of the summer but suddenly is full of the promises of fall delights thanks to the associative powers of sensation: crisp air, crystalline, transparent atmosphere contrasted with indoors warmth, flaming colors hovering above the earth  -- have you noticed how in the fall, at one point, you look more up and less at the brown and putty hues on the ground? -- I have started to crave one family of smells in particular, that of wine-y fruits, liquorish-y perfumes, cognac-y compositions...

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October 21, 2009

L'Occitane Labdanum de Seville, Mimosa de l'Esterel (2009) {Perfume Reviews}


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La Valisette Voyage en Méditerranée


Labdanum de Séville and Mimosa de l'Estérel are the two latest additions to L'Occitane Mediterranean collection previously named Notre Flore but which has now been re-christened Voyage en Méditerranée (Travel in the Mediterranean). There are new flacons as well; if you liked the antique compass-themed cap from the original bottles, buy them now because the plan is to phase them out when new batches will go into production (but the juices themselves will remain unchanged). 

Voyage en Méditerranée now comprises seven perfumes.The original quatuor included Myrte (see my review), Néroli, Cèdre, Iris (2007). Jasmin d'Egypte was added in 2008 as Le Jasmin, then won a prize; it has since then been renamed Jasmin d'Egypte to cohere with the ensemble of the collection now preferring to make use of names offering combined references to both a typical raw material and a locale of the Mare Nostrum region.

At press time, I did not have the names of the perfumers. If I receive them, I will add this information.

L'Occitane visibly tries to offer decently made perfumes and value. When you look closer, you might realize that 55 € for 75 ml is maybe not as light a price compared to designer perfumes, but they very adroitly succeed in making you think that the brand is about simplicity. Their perfumes are like the next step-ups from what you would normally find in a bathroom, say an eau de cologne or an eau fraîche, yet are still reminiscent somehow of the no-froufrou vibe of these surroundings (at least in most homes)....

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October 16, 2009

Kate Moss Vintage (2009): Smells Familiar & Not Just Because It Makes Me Think of a Gibson-Girl Plate {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}


Vintage-kate-Moss-bottle.jpgKate Moss Vintage is the most recent launch by the Kate Moss franchise after Kate (2007), Velvet Hour (2008) and Kate Moss Summer Time (2009), just introduced in September. It is billed as a "fruity-floral oriental" and...shock!...was created by perfumer Olivier Polge of IFF who, as it turns out, was hired to play the role of the invisible man because just about anyone with good plagiaristic skills could have performed the job.

The problem with calling attention to perfumers is that they do have their personalities and preferences but they often have to self-efface in order to be good listeners, to celebrities for example. In this case however I find that a threshold was crossed into the realm of odious copying. Honestly, if a perfumer cannot resist at his or her own level in the process of fragrance-making, they might just as well be replaced by robots and electronic noses.

Note are: pink peppercorn, white freesia, mandarin, heliotrope, jasmine, almond blossom, tonka bean, vanilla and musk.

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The main inspiration for the scent is Kate Moss's self-confessed love for anything vintage, except she quipped, for old men. If I were to find a time period and a style that encapsulates this brand of vintage olfactory form, I would have to say that it makes me think of a Gibson-Girl plate most, not even a photography, due to the sketch-like aspect of the perfume. 

Vintage by Kate Moss opens on both a very powdery and fruity accord (mandarin) which seeks to be slightly innovative, with a woodsy and almond-y undertone. The composition readily smells familiar besides the Johnson and Johnson baby powder accord which dominates, but I can't quite put my finger on it at first.

I had to go on a little meditation retreat to reflect upon this puzzling sensation.

The result:

To me it evokes the olfactory ambiances of the following powdery scents: Teint de Neige by Lorenzo Villoresi...I Profumi di Firenze Talco Delicato...Hypnotic Poison by Dior...L'Instant Magic by Guerlain...Eurêka! It actually smells very, very close to Guerlain Lights of Champs Elysées (2006) with its plummy cherry-wood accord underlining a comforting powdery heliotropin. It is a simplified version of it using the main ideas from it. A travel exclusive, the perfume is not widely known and hence apparently safe for shameless plundering...


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Continue reading "Kate Moss Vintage (2009): Smells Familiar & Not Just Because It Makes Me Think of a Gibson-Girl Plate {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »

October 6, 2009

Dior Hypnotic Poison Rubis & Thierry Mugler Angel Liqueur: Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris Lead Me to New Flankers {Scented Thoughts} {Perfume Reviews} {Perfume Streetwear}


hypnotic-poison-rubis-2.jpgOne of the pleasures of taking a stroll in Paris or simply going from point A to point B is picking up on sillages of perfume on the streets. When a repetition pattern appears, it becomes a bit intriguing.

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Paris ca. 1925, from art.com


In early September when the weather was still summery and sunny, I started smelling Hypnotic Poison a few times. What I found anomalous was the fact that it felt as if several women had decided to anticipate the colder days and pulled out their fur perfumes, the same one for some reason, seemingly showing the same concerted impatience to get done and over with summer. I couldn't help but think several things: that Parisian women indeed like their oriental perfumes and are all too ready to stop pretending summery scents can be satisfying; it was interesting that these women were young (with one exception) and finally that maybe they could have held on a bit longer to envelop themselves with the rich, sensual volutes of this boudoir oriental. I felt pleasure at smelling the heliotrope and rich tonka but at the same time felt there was a discrepancy with the pace of the season. I somehow liked the idea that in the near future when the gray of autumn would cover the sky and mesh with the zinc roofs and coldness would be inescapable, that it would make the scent be even more irresistible. But now? Wasn't it a bit early?...

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Continue reading "Dior Hypnotic Poison Rubis & Thierry Mugler Angel Liqueur: Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris Lead Me to New Flankers {Scented Thoughts} {Perfume Reviews} {Perfume Streetwear}" »

Perfume Shorts Archive

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