Monthly Archives from March 2006

Perfume Shorts Archive

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June 29, 2007

News in Brief: More on Sarrasins and Louve by Serge Lutens + Perfume Review by Octavian Sever Coifan {New Perfumes} {Perfume Short (Review)}

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The upcoming Sarrasins by Serge Lutens, it has now been revealed, will have its jasmine-based scent colored a deep purple, hence we can now understand better that the reference to ink is partly literal as evoked by the words "petrifyingly beautiful jasmine, gloved in black ink the color of bats."

Louve, an almond-based scent will, interestingly too, be colored in white. We remember seeing a milky-colored and opalescent perfume once and we absolutely loved the added charm and mystery it created.

We love perfumes that frankly play with colors!

PS: Please check the comment section for quick, yet precise reviews of the two perfumes by Octavian Sever Coifan of 1000 Fragrances.

Photo by raoulpop 

June 28, 2007

Blu by Bruno Acampora {Perfume Short (Review)}

 

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Blu by Bruno Acampora starts with a visual impression that of a dark blue turquoise tinted ink of a perfume. Your finger traces a primitive character on the wrist as if you did not know how to write your name and simply knew how to trace a cross. Like an illiterate peasant then and following Acampora's instructions you concentrate on the wrists (and neck in principle) only, you trace a blue cross that slowly disappears into the skin only adding a vaguely blue glow to the skin, making your blue veins bluer. You could also decide to write a Chinese character each time that you apply the scent.......

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June 27, 2007

Lilac, Neroli and Chamomile, Leaves, Magnolia by elizabethW {Perfume Short (Reviews)}

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After reviewing Vetiver by elizabethW, we are now turning our attention to four other eaux de parfum from the house: Lilac, Neroli & Chamomile, Leaves, Magnolia. The quality, we find, is uneven with Lilac standing out as the most interesting one from the selection.

Lilac is a pure, unadulterated lilac soliflore from head to toe. It is wonderfully fragrant and smells like the living flower. The scent is our favorite in this series that we were able to sample. It smells cool and bluish, very fresh, very dewy, with just the faintest hint of powder. It then further along takes on an intoxicating turn, a new intensity whithout losing its green sappy overtones. The perfume with time becomes slightly spicy-sweet like lilacs naturally are. There is nothing much to add except to stress that it is all about lilac, lilac, and then lilac again and feels exactly like you are burying your face in their petals........

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Photo is by Photolife  

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June 24, 2007

Alba by Profumum {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Fragrance}

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Writing this review at dawn makes one realize that Profumum Alba (Dawn) - one of the latest releases by the Italian house - attempts to capture the coolness of dawn, the first chilly beginnings of the day as well as the initial pristine transparency of a time that has not yet taken shape and form and which remains open to meaning. As the scent progressively warms up so does the day. The elapsing of time is one of the most fascinating elements that can be integrated into a fragrance. It plays with our metaphysical fiber, renders us more contemplative, and makes both life and perfume more precious because the transient character of things was felt more vividly, concretely, as if compressed more clearly within the more intelligible unit of the perfume.....

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June 22, 2007

Un Crime Exotique by Parfumerie Générale {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Fragrance}

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Un Crime Exotique (An Exotic Crime) is the latest offering by the house of Parfumerie Générale and is part of their Private Collection. It is said to come from a super secret stash of perfumes; it is not advertised on their site and is currently exclusively carried by Luckyscent.

The noir-novel name here appears to make little obvious reference to the perfume, which holds no apparent sense of foreboding, mystery, or threat. The only crime one can detect is that of greed, more of a sin than a crime.

Un Crime Exotique is a deliciously decadent spicy gourmand and dessert-y perfume with a subtle hint of indolic florals in its core, which seems mainly to contribute to the creation of a lush triple-crème perfume accord oozing with gourmandise and good memories. Would those subtle tuberose and osmanthus hints in its core be the exotic crime accord? In this case, it is a humorous reference to a, by definition, well hidden crime covered by the brouhaha of joyous relaxed conversations around a festive meal by the candlelight. The perfume evokes memories of rambunctious family and friend dinners at Thanksgiving and Christmas complete with special desserts, good alcohols, tea, pot-pourris, and even ginger and pumpkin-scented candles......

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May 9, 2007

Kai Fragrance Oil & Kai Eau de Parfum {Perfume Short (Reviews)}

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Kai Fragrance Oil was created by brand owner Gaye Straza Rappaport in 2000. Since then it has achieved a kind of cult status. The scent has reportedly been adopted by many stars from the performance industry, ranging from Reese Witherspoon and Pamela Anderson to Tommy Lee. Looking at the press on the Kai website and remembering other names like that of Julia Roberts, it appears to be easier to ask the question: who in Hollywood did not wear Kai at one point in their lives? Hollywood celebrities seem to love simple, yet sexy skin scents, and this is one of them.

All joking aside, I felt I needed to test the scent as it is still ubiquitous and also in order to report on the differences between the fragrance oil and the newer eau de parfum version, a little puzzling question that arises regularly on forums. Rappaport explained to Elle that coming up with a new alcohol-based version took some work and effort and was motivated by their cutomers' requests "But it took three years since mists tend to be lighter than oils and I wanted to preserve the integrity of the original."........

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April 23, 2007

Shedonism Exotic Floral Essence by Origins {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Perfume}

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Shedonism is the latest perfume by Origins and is inspired by a Tahitian ceremony centering on a Tiare blossom. "On the fabled tropical island of Tahiti, the “society of she” is still celebrated with playful passion. There the women wear a fragrant, snow-white Tiaré blossom that holds a special meaning. According to tradition, when the flower is worn behind the left ear, it says her love is taken. Worn on the opposite ear, it means her heart is fancy free. And when she waves the Tiare behind her head, it signals "Follow me"."If you like tiare and beachy scents, then Shedonism might be a good option. It is not original by any means, but is a good functional summery skin scent that is to be used as a mist.......

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April 9, 2007

Notes on L'Ombre Fauve & Ether de Lilas by Parfumerie Générale {Perfume Short (Review)}

I wanted to let you know that after having ordered not only Ether de Lilas, but also L'Ombre Fauve which I had already reviewed, I have come to the conclusion that there are different batches of these perfumes in circulation. At least I am quite positive about that regarding L'Ombre Fauve. The latter from my new sampling session smells much more chemical and lacks the qualities I had described in my review of it. I suspect it has to do with a lack of maturation because Ether de Lilas presents the same strong chemical overtone, to the point where it hurts one's nose to smell them.

November 14, 2006

Jardins de Bagatelle Eau de Toilette by Guerlain {Perfume Short - Express Perfume Review}

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Exquisite, exquisite is the word to describe Jardins de Bagatelle. I was curious to test yet another one of the Guerlains in an eau de toilette version as they are in general much decried amongst perfumistas. Seeing this one in a package sent from France I decided to give it a go.

Jardins de Bagatelle was created in 1983 by Jean-Paul Guerlain and is described as a floral woodsy fragrance, a particularly apt description for the eau de toilette version which is indeed on the woodsy side. According to Jan Moran in Fabulous Fragrances II, top notes are violet, bergamot, aldehydes, citron. Heart notes are orange blossom, tuberose, gardenia, magnolia, narcissus, orchid, ylang-ylang, jasmine, and muguet. Base notes are musk, cedarwood, vetiver, and patchouli; the perfume also most certainly contains orris....


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November 13, 2006

Ruban D'Orange by L'Occitane {Perfume Short - Express Perfume Review}

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This is a pleasant surprise; Ruban D'Orange récolte d'hiver by L'Occitane (Orange Ribbon winter harvest) is better than what I expected and full-bottle worthy. The perfume, with its name suggestive to me also of a treat, a confiserie - I somehow picture a guimauve ribbon - arrives in the midst of our fall days to appeal to our sense of contrast and tempt us with its sunny thirst-quenching notes. This summery aspect is not the end of the story however for it subsides in due course as the perfume also develops a warm amberey and woodsy character that is very much in tune with the season....


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October 18, 2006

Perfume Short & Celebrity Scent: Maria Sharapova by Maria Sharapova

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Maria Sharapova by Maria Sharapova was launched in 2005 and was created by nose Carlos Vinals. The tennis player reportedly actively participated in the design of the fragrance. She follows the examples of other tennis players who launched celebrity fragrances and which include Roger Federer, Andy Roddick, Bjorn Borg and Chris Evert.

Maria Sharapova includes notes of sweet mandarin, bergamot, pomegranate leaf, cassis berries, lemongrass, gardenia, jasmine, magnolia, dewy English rose petals, Wimbledon grass, Cashmere musk, white amber crystals and a dash of vanilla.....


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October 12, 2006

New Perfume & Perfume Short: Danielle by Danielle Steel

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The first perfume by best-selling author, Danielle by Danielle Steel has now hit the perfume counters. It is described as a lush floral oriental and is meant to convey qualities embodied by the prolific writer and mother of nine children, that is, femininity and strength.

The juice, by Loc Dong of International Flavors and Fragrances, has top notes of lush green notes and Mediterranean mandarin; a heart of butterfly jasmine, sunset orchid and hydroponic rose, and a drydown of blue vetiver, white amber and cashmere musks.

The collection includes eaux de parfum in two sizes, 1.7 oz. for $49.50 and 3.3 oz. for $65, as well as a 0.5-oz. parfum, $125, and a 6.8-oz. body lotion for $35.

The eau de parfum bottles are faceted heavy glass rectangles, intended to be reminiscent of pieces in Steel’s large fine crystal collection. The juice inside is tinted a pale yellow. The perfume bottle is a weighty glass rectangle with a glass dabber and faceted top. Glass for both was fabricated by Pochet...

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September 20, 2006

Perfume Short: Mitsouko Eau de Toilette by Guerlain

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Mitsouko eau de toilette is still available but I wanted to call your attention to the fact that it does not really exist anymore. What is left is the shell; the bottle reproduces the lovely inverted heart design found on the perfume bottle, the label says Guerlain Mitsouko, but the perfume itself has gone wrong, very wrong...

 

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Perfume Shorts Archive

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