Esteban Tonka (2006) {Perfume Short (Review)}
While doing research on a different perfume, I happened on an advert for Tonka by Esteban in their collection focusing on Matières (Raw Materials), which is a rather rare occurrence in the world of niche perfume brands. Last year Serge Lutens released a stylish poster for Rousse but it is still unusual to lay eyes on a niche fragrance advert. The reason for this extra publicity effort is that, as I learned, Tonka won the "Oscar" for best unisex perfume of 2007 by Cosmétique Magazine, a leading cosmetics trade magazine in France. The composition is signed by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.
Coincidentally, just before realizing it had been distinguished by a prize, I had bought the scent at long last, based on my memory of it.
It was fairly easy to conjure up its exceptionally smooth texture, round body, and luminous, comforting personality. With the lights starting to twinkle on early Christmas trees and bedecked main streets, these fireflies reminded me of the gentle glow of the perfume and created a craving for the intoxicating scent of tonka bean which is, to put it simply, like a more vegetal, almost watery vanilla for some of its facets, yet also smoky, leathery and savory with hints of coconut and hay. I remembered that the Esteban rendition was probably one of the least perfume-y ones and offered a nice one-note aspect......
Tonka is simple without being over simplistic. The scent starts on a slightly sparkling white-wine-y accord or as if the honeyed notes of tonka had been made to infuse in a cup of champagne, or as if you had just caught a whiff escaping from a glass of white Martini in which a green olive is dipping on a toothpick. Of course it also smells like ginger ale due to the ginger note in it but in a more liquorish-y fashion. Then the scent becomes more animalic, dirtier and leathery, but without too much fanfare; there are tinges of aromatic herbs. The impression prolongs itself into a sensual slightly discordant facet of pungent leather; it soon smells of musky goat skin the way they are prepared by tanners from North Africa or alternatively evokes a barnyard (a little like in L'Air de Rien by Miller Harris) but in an understated way. The dirtiness of the scent is safely contained.The perfume seems to make a bit of a disappearing act at times probably due to partial anosmia to musk. As it comes back towards you, you discover its honeyed, tobacco, and blond vanilla facets; tonka was traditionally used to scent snuff and so this aspect recaptures a time-tested scent association whicht is harmonious. Then the perfume becomes woodier and more cedar-y in particular although they rather mention sandalwood and it does smell more characteristically like sandalwood in the longer dry-down. Pink pepper is quoted but is very fine and completely blended in: it feels warm but not astringent. The dry-down is a feast of warm honeyed blond notes: all the sweet nuances of tonka appear only toned down by a slightly smoky edge as the notes expand and diffuse themselves in the most excellent fashion.
Tonka to me is a luminous and sophisticated gourmand perfume. Although there are discernable stages in the perfume, these remain very discreet and overall the perfume feels linear.
This review is for the eau de parfum version. The bottle on the advert seems to be the eau de toilette version.
(Images: Elle Déco Dec 2007 via Images de Parfums Forum, Esteban)
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