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The Buzz

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Van Cleef & Arpels Oriens

The Popularity of Clover Aroma and L.T. Piver Trèfle Incarnat in Literature and Perfume since the 19th Century - Part 1 

Like This, Tilda Swinton

The Pure White Trend in Fragrances

Voyage d'Hermès

Three Cherry Blossom Perfumes

Balenciaga Paris Eau de Parfum

Sarah Jessica Parker SJP NYC

Bath and Body Works Twilight Woods

Burberry Sport Women and Men

Guerlain Flora Nymphea

Green Fragrances were Back in 2009 and will Stay in 2010

Valentine's Day 2010 and Beyond: Exploring Musk Oils Part 2

Valentine's Day 2010: Exploring Musk Oils Part 1

Lanvin Jeanne and Jeanne La Rose - Part 1

Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose

Maison Martin Margiela (Untitled)

Michael Kors Eau de Parfum

Kim Kardashian Eau de Parfum

Annick Goutal Ninfeo Mio

Issey Miyake A Scent

L'Eau Serge Lutens: The Enduring Scent of Anti-Conformism or the Anti-Anti Perfume

L'Eau Serge Lutens: Un Parfum d'Anti-Conformisme qui Perdure: L'Anti-Anti Parfum
 
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March 15, 2010

Viktor & Rolf Order Cake for Flowerbomb's 5th Anniversary at Hotel Le Meurice

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Dutch fashion designers Viktor & Rolf decided to take the opportunity of Paris Fashion Week to celebrate the 5th anniversary of their star fragrance Flowerbomb. They threw a party at Le Meurice on March 4, 2010 which featured Grace Jones singing La vie en rose like a showgirl as well as the presentation of a limited-edition pastry co-created by the hotel's head chef, Yannick Alléno, and its pastry chef, Camille Lesecq.

The cake which is called My Sweet Flowerbomb was inspired by the perfume and its pink ribboned and sealed packaging. The jus itself is a work co-signed by perfumers Olivier Polge, Carlos Benaïm and Domitille Berthier. You can see 2009-best-perfumer-of-the-year recipient Olivier Polge pretending to pour some of the fragrance in a mixing bowl held by Yannick Alléno looking on toward Camille Lesecq in the advertising visual shot in the kitchens of the Parisian hotel...

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February 20, 2010

Harrods Interview Leonard Lauder {Fragrant Reading}

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"When you have an iconic product, Rule No. 1: Never forget quality; Rule No. 2: Deliver what you promise; Rule No. 3: Don't change the packaging."


Jan Masters interviews Leonard Lauder, the eldest son of Estée Lauder and chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Companies Inc, for Harrods. Perfume-wise we learn of an upcoming fragrance by Bobbi Brown and of a special commemorative solid perfume compact of Beautiful for Harrods; the sensitive sense of smell of Leonard Lauder is confirmed. We also take a peek into one of Estée's bathrooms, one modeled after the shape of the bottle of Youth-Dew...

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"The Estée Lauder 50th Anniversary Compact filled with Beautiful solid perfume, £200
Coming Soon"

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December 8, 2009

Fragrances of the World 2010 by Michael Edwards {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}

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International perfume expert Michael Edwards has published the 26th annual edition of his work with Fragrances of the World 2010/ Parfums du Monde 2010. The new edition lists 7000 fragrances including 800 new releases. The cover features an artwork by perfumer Michel Roudnitska.

Edwards was inducted into the Australian Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame last summer.

"Besides the new standout scents that capture our attention as well as the classics that increase with popularity each year, the most notable trend in the industry right now comes from the growth in niche products," said Michael Edwards...

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December 4, 2009

Annick Le Guerer Si Le Parfum m'etait Conte (2009) {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}


Guerer-si-le-parfum-metait-conte.jpgPerfume author Annick Le Guérer will publish a new book from December 17, 2009 entitled Si le parfum m' était conté (If The Story of Perfume Were Told to Me) at Editions Garde-Temps made in collaboration with l'Osmothèque in Versailles. The foreword was written by the President of the Osmothèque Patricia de Nicolaï

Like other tomes at the publishing house and her previous work Quand le parfum portait remède, the book is transformed into a less abstract object that is usual for print and scented with 12 perfumes from the past....

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November 29, 2009

Favorite Flowers of Perfumers {Fragrant Reading}


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The French magazine Psychologies has consecrated its November-December 09 supplement issue to Happiness, The Ultimate Luxury (yes, it's come to that). One of the articles is about perfume and asks 11 perfumers what their favorite flowers are from the standpoint of olfaction.

The perfumers that were interviewed are: Jacques Cavallier, Christine Nagel, Jean-Michel Duriez, Jean-Claude Ellena, Olivier Cresp (an insert), Mathilde Laurent, Thierry Wasser, Ben Gorham, Francis Kurkdjian, François Demachy, Serge Lutens, Jacques Polge...

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November 23, 2009

Sarah Palin Eau de Maverick (2012) {New Perfume}


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Okay, no, not really. We don't know if there will be an Eau de Maverick by Sarah Palin in 2012 although someone had the idea of doing a spoof inspired by the opening paragraph of her memoir, Going Rogue, which clearly shows that Palin is sensitive to smells although the resulting bottled blend would probably be too meaty for my nose. Nice in the open air though. I nevertheless appreciate the priceless line inserted in the middle of that paragraph,...
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November 21, 2009

How Michelin Food Critics Work: To Shmooze or To Critique, That is The Question {Fragrant Reading}

1959 - The Untouchables.jpgThe Untouchables, 1959 via dga.org


Michelin hotel-and-restaurant guides are arguably the Rolls Royce of gastronomy reviews guides. Or rather one could propose, The Untouchables of the food reviewing world.

In what looks like a scoop, The New Yorker was able to investigate the work of a Michelin inspector. They are the shadowy figures that review and critique hundreds of restaurants incognito. No one knows them as they like to operate like food spies to ensure stringent independence of judgment. 

The article by John Colapinto is the result of the temporary softening of the draconian standards of the guide which prohibits their food critics from revealing their identities. The interview was conducted under the debonnaire yet watchful gaze of Jean-Luc Naret, the managing director of the guides who is making a PR effort to make the New-York-City audience better understand their ethos. Reportedly, "Gallic opacity" is not completely effective at the local level.

The piece raises more generally the question of desirable anonymity for a critic or of how close a critic ought to be to the industry he or she critiques. Michelin's answer is exceptionally simple: don't even go there. Sacrifice your social life. We're not here to exchange pleasantries and network and get cues from industry insiders but to be taken (dead) seriously by the public. Integrity is a prerequisite.

The result: chefs lust after their stars like for no other restaurant guides.

The New Yorker: Lunch with M.


 

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November 20, 2009

Interview with Maurice Roucel: Everyone Knows the Alphabet but Few Can Write a Good Novel {Fragrant Reading}

 

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In an interview given to an Italian publication, perfumer Maurice Roucel of Symrise compares the art of perfume composition to the art of writing. He underlines the differences between the technical aspect of perfumery and the more intuitive, creative one. The act of creation remains somewhat magical, mysterious. He confides that like all the other perfumers he is looking for the blue note of jazz in perfume, the perfect note, but that at the same time his primary motivation remains to bring something positive to the lives of perfume-wearers.  

A perfume to which he is particularly attached he reveals and calls unforgettable was one worn by his grand-mother called Le Ciel de Paris. When his grand-mother finished the perfume bottle he added water so that the scent could come to life again. How lovely is that!

Read more in I Profumi? Crearli è un'arte come scrivere...

Challenges of the Perfume Industry in Grasse {Fragrant Readings}



grasse-lavande.jpgFor those who can read French (you can also try using Babelfish or Google Translate to get the gist of the online articles) there is an informative report on the state of the perfume industry in Grasse in L'Express.fr.

There is apparently a move to put Grasse more firmly on the national and international perfume-industry map and a push to encourage its members to become more politically involved and learn to lobby more aggressively.

Dossier: Les défis de l'industrie du parfum à Grasse

November 18, 2009

Using the Brain (Not The Nose) To Smell by Stephen Douthwaite {Fragrant Reading}



P-F-Dec-09.jpgThere is an article well-worth reading in the December issue of Perfumer & Flavorist. Written by Stephen Douthwaite of PerfumersWorld, it makes the point that even professionals in the industry do not necessarily possess the right techniques or work in the right conditions to smell perfumes and flavors. The piece then proceeds to present a number of technical and methodological approaches. Here is a particularly eloquent passage to pinpoint one aspect of the problem,

"...please take a moment to consider this question: "Where is the worse place to smell a perfume compound sample? Places that likely come to mind include kitchens, bathrooms, coffee shops and smoking rooms. Few people would cite the truly worst place, the place where most professional perfumers actually do their initial smelling evaluation of samples -- the odorotheque, the perfumery laboratory. There may be hundreds of perfumery materials lining the shelves in these spaces, all of them emanating tiny amounts of odorous molecules. Trying to smell analytically in such an atmosphere would be like trying to listen to Eric Satie's "Gymnopes" piano piece on a noisy playground. Yes, it's possible to do so, but not truly conductive to getting the most from the music." 



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