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Fragrant Readings Archive
Page 4 of 11 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
 Well, apparently, Versailles is not dead. I just read an article in the Times Online about an advice book entitled Le carnet du savoir-vivre au bureau by author Laurence Caracalla and it appears to be replete with self-punishing advice on how to look better, more the part and make the most expected, conformist and correct impressions on people. It perpetuates tangibly the Versailles courtisan ideal in which submission to the strictest rules of conduct and appearance are dictated by (whom?) and accepted in the hope that they will contribute to your advancement in society. What a nightmare! Plus it does not make sense. The pronouncements on how French women look immaculate at 7 pm is simply not true. There is a whole trend of French négligé charm that is very common even in the most elegant neighborhoods. In fact I worry less about my hair in France than in the US because, you know, even Carine Roitfield, the editor in chief of Vogue looks like she just rolled out of her bed hair-wise. It's called (in my mind) intellectual hair! By the way, doesn't Caracalla on this picture have the typical intellectual hair?...
Continue reading "New French Book of Manners Perpetuates Courtly Ideals {Fragrant & Beauty Reading}" »
 There are not many perfumes in the world that can pretend to having a monograph dedicated to their sole trajectory but Chanel No. 5 is preeminently it. Author François Ternon has written Histoire du No.5 de Chanel: un numéro intemporel (A History of Chanel No. 5: a timeless number), Les Editions Normant, 224 p, Nantes. He is a former typographer and nurse who did a master's thesis on the perfume which is the world's #1 bestseller. He became a member of the Société Française des Parfumeurs based on this research and has now published a book relating the history of the perfume incorporating new materials...
Continue reading "New Book on Chanel No.5 {Fragrant Readings}" »
 Pamela Anderson and David La Chapelle at the 6th Annual Hollywood Style Awards -- Doesn't this dress look a little complicated yet almost made as if in desperation at the last minute? Is this a conceptual dress meant to express feminine angst prior to dressing up?
Pamela Anderson definitely has personal ideas about perfume. You have to hand it to her that she is not just a shallow sounding board for other people's ideas and that she does not let advisers dictate her tastes. About her upcoming Malibu scents, she said that her favorite notes are sandalwood, amber and patchouli and this is not knowledge based on recent meetings with fragrance developers, but gathered through her own familiarity with perfume since high-school. Also, did she say that her new perfume is a veritable ambrosia offered to Poseidon off the coast of California the gods of Malibu? Er, no, she says that it is "unlike a perfume" and that it "isn't too sophisticated..." "It's fresh, but chic, inexpensive, available in drugstores! I love that the most--I worship drugstores, it's hard to get me out.
Read more in Allure...
 The founder of perfume brand By Kilian, Kilian Hennessy, is heading to Boston next week and answers a Q & A on the Boston Herald blog, The Edge, in the days leading up to the local launch of his line. What does he think of celebrity perfumes? "They have knowledge of how to create a suit, yes. A perfume? No,"
he said, speaking via telephone from his Paris office this week.
Mmm, not to sound snarky, but last time I checked celebrity perfumes were still created by perfumers not by some crazy celebs thinking they knew how to blend an Eh, voilà! perfume.
He, on the other hand, does not think he knows everything about perfumery and describes himself as an avid student of the subject,
"Hennessy described his passion for perfume as a calling, saying, "I
don't think I've slept much. I've been a like a drug addict working on
scent. I was so hungry to learn."
Read more...
 There have been already several books written about the life of perfume industry giant and genius François Coty but author Alain Duménil who is visibly fascinated by the trajectories of men that climb up very high in the social sphere to fall very hard in the end (he previously signed a biography of Nicolas Fouquet) decided to turn his attention to the "emperor of Artigny", another man guilty of hubris. About François Coty, director Jean-Pierre Melville once said upon visiting his castle of Artigny that this is when you realized that Citizen Kane was not born American. Parfum d'Empire: la vie extraordinaire de François Coty, 247 p., Plon, was published in May of 2009. Available on Amazon.com for €18,91.
 Jacqueline Kennedy at JFK funeral by Andy Warhol
Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian whose work you might know through Le Male, Fleur du Male, Classique, or Gaultier2 by Jean Paul Gaultier, when asked about the relationship between cuisine and perfume and his conception of luxury put the stress on the role of emotion. He just opened his own house, Maison Francis Kurkdjian, in which he has started applying his personal ideas about perfume. Perfumes
goes beyond being a beautiful crystal object that smells good.
Perfume is only a matter of emotions: there isn't one that is better
than the other and it is not because an aroma is included in a cheaply priced
product that it is bad. Like for art, one can be touched by a canvas
without it necessarily bearing the signature of Francis Bacon.
Everything is perfumed in our environments, but this accumulation must be relevant. It therefore requires an approach that is more transverse.
To take up the challenge of entering the universe of perfumes as one
would the world of interior decoration, with a large collection, and to
turn perfume into an art of living which touches both the intimate and
the universal, this is precisely my idea of luxury.
Et quelle est-elle ? [à propos de son idée du luxe]
Le parfum va au-delà d'un bel objet en cristal qui sent bon. Le parfum
n'est qu'une question d'émotions : il n'y en a pas un meilleur que
l'autre, et ce n'est pas parce qu'une odeur est incluse dans un produit
qui ne coûte pas cher qu'elle est mauvaise. Comme pour l'art, on peut
être touché par une toile sans qu'elle soit forcément signée Francis
Bacon. Tout est parfumé dans nos environnements, mais cette
accumulation doit être pertinente. Elle exige donc une approche plus
transversale. Faire le pari de rentrer dans l'univers du parfum comme
dans celui de la décoration intérieure, avec une collection étendue,
faire du parfum un art de vivre qui touche l'intime comme l'universel,
voilà mon idée du luxe....
Continue reading "Interview with Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian: 2 Scented Quotes of the Day on Perfume and Emotion" »
 Author Annick Le Guerer has published a new book on the therapeutic tradition of perfume entitled Quand le parfum portait remède: jardins des cloîtres, jardins des princes, Garde-Temps Editions, 95 p, Septembre 2009. (When perfume used to cure: cloister gardens and princely gardens). Judging from the title, the topic of the book focuses on the gardens that were cultivated by monasteries and aristocratic courts to derive medicinal benefits from their plants. There is however, it seems, an emphasis on aromatherapy given the specialty of the author. The book is scented either thanks to a scratch-and-sniff technology or to samples (I am trying to get further details). The fragrances were created by perfumers Daniela Andrier (Givaudan) and Dominique Ropion (IFF)...
Continue reading "Annick Le Guerer Quand le Parfum Portait Remede: Jardins des Cloitres, Jardins des Princes {Fragrant Readings - New Book} " »
 For those who can get hold of Paris Capitale, the magazine about Paris (which includes a bilingual address guide section handy for visitors) there are two articles on perfumes this month. Serge Lutens is interviewed (p.60) about his tastes in teas and the way he likes to include this note in perfumery. It is part of a feature on drinking tea in Paris. He says that he sometimes likes to add a tea nuance to his fragrances like in Mandarine-Mandarin with its Lapsang-Souchong note, but that it is never a central part of a perfume...
Continue reading "Paris Capitale September Issue Perfume Articles {Fragrant Readings}" »
A small enterprise named His Witness Scents in Athens, Tennessee is attempting to put some virtue back into perfume naming and fragrance appreciation. After noticing that too many fragrances seem to advertise inappropriate conduct and bad-mouth their wearers, two women decide to take issue with this laissez-faire attitude by proposing perfumes named after verses of the Bible such as Above Rubies, a reference to Proverbs 31:10 ("Who can find a virtuous woman? For her price is far above rubies") and praying on the scents. A His-Witness-Scents offering might smell of Psalms 45:8: "All thy garments smell of myrrh, and aloes, and cassia, out of ivory palaces, whereby they have made thee glad."...
Continue reading "His Witness Scents Reflect Christian Values" »
 An article in Special Chem explains the ins and outs of Givaudan's action in the field of sustainable sourcing of naturals as the global demand for eco-conscious, natural perfumes and flavors augment. "The growing demand for natural ingredients is at odds with
the ability of producers to supply raw materials in a sustainable way." [...]...
Continue reading "Givaudan Innovative Naturals Programme: Sandalwood, Tonka Bean, Benzoin Explained {Fragrant Reading}" »
 A questionnaire on personal shopping habits and quirks was put to Etienne de Swardt founder of Etat Libre d'Orange, an alternative fragrance label based in Paris. Here are his rather revealing answers. For your reassurance and in reference to answer no.3 below the perfumes de Swardt sells are all located in the front of his store...
Continue reading "Shopping Q & A with Etienne de Swardt of Etat Libre d'Orange {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Picture courtesy of the MET. Wedding casket (1500-1530) from Ferrara or Venice decorated with pastiglia made of "musk paste", a mixture of white lead paste, binding egg white and scented musk. "The scent was thought to have aphrodisiacal properties, which added to the casket's value as a marriage gift." ( Note: this picture is not from the book.) A new cultural history of perfume will appear in October 2009 in English entitled Earthly Scents - Heavenly Pleasures: A Cultural History of Scents by Dr. Günther Ohloff. The author has also previously published a book in German consecrated to perfume called Düfte: Signale der Gefühlswelt (Perfumes: Signs of the World of Sensations). The new book covers the periods ranging from the antiquity to the end of the pre-modern period offering a glimpse into the emergence of the modern era through a study on the Eau de Cologne...
Continue reading "Earthly Scents - Heavenly Pleasures: A Cultural History of Scents by Günther Ohloff: New Book {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading} " »
 An interesting article about non-verbal cues and in particular olfactory ones exchanged in Latino interactions according to a dad and marketing specialist who relates his personal observations. Sometimes smell counts more than the functionality of a cleaning product like Fabuloso because much more importantly the scent is used to convey a set of meanings to members of the family and community. What Ricardo A Lopez. doesn't say here but which transpires from his notes is that the olfactory onus is very much on women and seems to be part of general machismo values: proving repeatedly through certain perfumes that as a good mother and wife you are taking good care of your baby, of your family....
Continue reading "Non-Verbal Olfactory Communication in Latino Culture {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Natural and organic beauty brand Doux Me has an interview with Le Labo fragrances co-founder Fabrice Penot on their green page this month. How green is Fabrice Penot in his personal life and business practices?...
Continue reading "Le Labo Interview by Doux Me: How Green is Fabrice Penot? & The New 20% Off Recycling Program {Fragrant Reading} {Shopping Tip}" »
 Wallpaper has quite the comprehensive interview with perfumer Jean-Paul Guerlain and his successor Thierry Wasser. It is almost touching to see Wasser's sense of intelligent humility, faced with a historic treasury of knowledge and monument such as Jean-Paul Guerlain. There are many insights about the collaboration between the two men, and what one can interpret not just only as the continuation of the name of Guerlain but as the preservation of a national and international patrimony in perfumery. J-P Guerlain is dispensing "some" of his experience and knowledge, as he says so himself, but at the same time, it is not as straightforward as that and Wasser has to figure out a number of things by himself. An interesting possibility is evoked with the meeting of Thierry Wasser with Jean-Paul Guerlain's eldest grandson; apparently, it might not be impossible to see the heritage of the house go back to the guardianship of a Guerlain after it would have skipped a generation...
Continue reading "Interview with Jean-Paul Guerlain & Thierry Wasser in Wallpaper {Fragrant Reading}" »
Fragrant Readings Archive
Page 4 of 11 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
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Fin O'Suilleabhain on
Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}
: Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...
Thalestris Dupont on
Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review}
: Lovely perfume! Reminds me of the spring 2011 when I was wearing ...
Karen Lindsey on
Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers}
: I just found this site and I so need to find someone ...
Regina on
Happy New Year 2012!
: Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations?
C Sasich on
Easy Tricks To Create Golden Globes Hairstyles! {Beauty Notes - Hair}
: My fave was Michelle Williams - modern , effortless not overdone . ...
kelvin neo on
Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances*
: Hi good day, Can i know where can purchase or order Pink ...
Alan on
A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading}
: Hell-scent candle, lol.
Gina on
Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes}
: I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ...
Tammy on
Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List}
: Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
evageli karounzou on
Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News}
: at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...
Mandy Aftel on
Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance}
: Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...
Kay on
Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam
: This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ...
Maddy on
Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa}
: Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...
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