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Fragrant Readings Archive
Page 6 of 11 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
 Vanilla, which has been in the recent past showcased as a main source of inspiration for perfumes such as Tihota by Indult composed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, while being announced as a key note in the upcoming Vanille Galante by Hermès in the Hermessence series, a work by Jean-Claude Ellena, has visibly awoken the interests of some of the major perfumers of the day.
L'Express is devoting an article to this beloved, indispensable ingredient of perfumery in more or less high doses including a Q & A with perfumer Jean-Paul Duriez of the house of Patou.
From that article we excerpt, translate and comment on a quote regarding the new Vanille Galante (Flirtatious Vanilla) to be launched in February 2009...
Continue reading "Article on Vanilla & Preview of Upcoming Hermes Vanille Galante {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Thoughts}" »
 A late link to an article published in September 2008 in the Wall Street Journal on current research on the development of air fresheners, the thinking and science behind the venture, "Traditionally, air fresheners have tried to cover bad smells with a
blanket of stronger but more tolerable ones. IFF believes that by
charting the chemical properties of select odors, it can make the fight
more focused. The idea is to assail an offending molecule with a
fragrance--included in a cleaning product, for example, or an air
freshener--that can counter or cover it.(...) Next, an extreme tobacco addiction is heartily sought out, found, and embraced,...
Continue reading "Atypical Research on Air Fresheners {Fragrant Reading}" »
 For those interested in both beauty and perfume, a new bilingual dictionary by Michel Husson entitled Beauty Talk dictionnaire de la parfumerie, de la cosmétologie & des produits de beauté français-anglais/anglais-français and Dictionary of Perfumery, Cosmetology & Beauty Products - English-French/French-English, has come out this month.
Twelve themes are developed, perfume being one of them, alongside with skin, skin and sun, hair, packaging, etc...
Continue reading "Beauty Talk Dictionnaire - Dictionary (2008) {Fragrant Reading - New Book} " »
 The Editions Paja will publish a new book on perfume in October-November 2008 authored by Béatrice Boissière under the artistic direction of Coco Tassel. It is entitled Plaisirs de Parfums (Pleasures of Perfumes) and proposes to retrace a world history of fragrances since the 19th century with attention devoted to the compositions of fragrances and anecdotes on the milieu of perfumers. Long-lost fragrances are also not forgotten...
Continue reading "Plaisirs de Parfums: New Book (2008) {Fragrant Reading}" »
 No gasoline!
I happened on en entry by perfumer Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume regarding the difficulty of recreating a gasoline perfume. His is a commentary precisely on Kate Moss's desire to capture the alluring (for many as it turns out) scent of gas. This made me remember that a certain number of flowers, like tuberose or jasmine, can naturally have top notes smelling like gasoline. Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens developed this naturally-occurring facet for example....
Continue reading "A Gasoline Perfume Is Hard To Create Says Christopher Brosius {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Niche perfume brand Memo founder Clara Molloy is preparing to launch a duo of perfumes for adults and children in September in her Les Echappées collection called Jannat meaning paradise in Urdu and other languages of the Middle East. The grown-up version is an eau de parfum and the kiddie one is a lighter eau fraîche. They were created by perfumer Aliénor Massenet, like the rest of the brand's offerings...
Continue reading "Memo Jannat For Kids & Grownups (2008) {New Fragrance} - New Book By Clara Molloy {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Fragrance expert Roja Dove has written his first book on the subject of his long-time passion, entitled The Essence of Perfume. While he is known for his lectures and frequent appearances in the media, as well as his temple of bon goût dedicated to the art of perfumery, the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, he had not felt the need so far to write down his thoughts...
Continue reading "Roja Dove The Esssence of Perfume: New Book {Fragrant Reading} {Shopping Tip}" »
 To me, perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is a little bit like the feminine counterpart to perfumer Jean Claude Ellena. Both are fascinated by the element
water and its smell. Both are obsessed with transparent, diaphanous textures. Both plow their paths in this perfumery direction in a very consistent, deep manner. Both not just do this kind of perfumery but enjoy less ethereal unusual gourmand accords (in fact both seem to love to eat good food). To compare their works more closely would be extremely interesting. The September 2008 issue of the magazine Atmosphères has a 1-page article about perfumer-composer Olivia Giacobetti, who reveals that she " cannot stand not to smell good". In order to be able to perfume herself while respecting the constraint of olfactory neutrality she needs to have for her work, she reportedly just dabs on two drops of a diluted version of IUNX Eau Blanche on her neck so that it has time to evaporate by the time she reaches her lab...
Continue reading "Article About Olivia Giacobetti: IUNX Is Back In Business {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Here is a very interesting article by Prof. Kamiel Koelman from the Vrije Universiteit in Amsterdam which summarizes the position on perfume copyrights in Holland as based on the case of Trésor by Lancôme, which was examined by the courts in 2006. The paper raises a host of philosophical, biological, and legal questions and reveals the complexity of the issue. "The French cosmetics company, Lancôme, sells an exclusive perfume under the name Trésor (Treasure). Kecofa, a small Dutch firm, sells its Female Treasure perfume at a tenth of the price. Lancôme had previously tried to stop Kecofa by invoking its trademark right to the word Trésor,
but failed, because the courts found that consumers were unlikely to
confuse the brands. In 2000, after the Dutch Trademark act was
updated, Lancôme tried again, but this time also claimed infringement
of its copyright in the perfume. The trademark claim failed once more,
but - probably to Lancôme's surprise - the copyright claim succeeded
and was further sanctioned by the Dutch High Court.1 Coincidentally,
just three days before, the French Supreme Court had ruled that a
perfume - Dior's Dune - was not copyrightable. The French court likened
parfumeurs to mere craftsmen, like carpenters or plumbers, rather than
artists, and as such found their works not eligible for copyright
protection.2...
Continue reading "Article about Perfume Imitation & Copyrights: The Dutch Position {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Romano Ricci © Ryan Carter/The National
Romano Ricci, the founder and owner of young fragrance brand Juliette Has A Gun established in 2006, declares that his signature style is classic with a twist. Follows a list of his best addresses for food and clothes in Paris in this very laid-back interview with The National in which he discusses mostly of his tastes and mentions very discreetly at the end his upcoming perfume, Citizen Queen,...
Continue reading "Romano Ricci Gives Out His Good Addresses {Fragrant Reading}" »
 I was a Shoplifter, movie poster from Paxarcana Please read Part 1: Stardust, Part 2: The Hunt, and Part 3: Jargon, if you missed them
Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by Guest Contributor Christina Warinner
Part 4: Special Clients
At our store, we had two very special clients. Both were over sixty, fabulously wealthy, and committed shoplifters. They were distinct, however, in method and manner. The first, Mrs. L, repeatedly returned an empty bottle of Chanel No. 5 parfum, complaining that it smelled terribly. She couldn't wear it, and she would demand a new bottle to replace it. The trouble was that she did wear it, obviously, which is why the bottle was always returned empty. She had a grandiose style, and she'd fling her shawl over her left shoulder for dramatic emphasis as she described its terrible, stale stink to everyone in eavesdropping range. A few pages into the well-worn script at this point, I'd play along, abhorred, and call our store manager, who'd shepherd her into his secluded office. Thirty minutes later she'd emerge, beaming, with a new bottle of Chanel (I think he kept a case in his office). Then he'd discreetly send off a bill to her husband...
Continue reading "Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 4 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}" »

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by Guest Contributor Christina Warinner
Please read Part 1: Stardust and Part 2: The Hunt, if you've missed them Part 3: JargonThe trouble with the fragrance industry is that most of its jargon is in French. I do not speak French. In school, I studied German, which is pretty much the opposite of French. Thus, putting me in a position to stumble through a menagerie of French fragrance terms on a daily basis was in every sense of the word a massacre. At the end of the day, the French language lie dying and bleeding at my feet, only to be resurrected again the next day for a repeat performance. I got by with a horrid German pronunciation of vowels mixed in with a healthy deletion of random consonants until Champs Elysees became "Shons el-ees-us." Fortunately, working at an expensive new department store in a nouveau riche Midwestern suburb, my clients didn't know the difference and would parrot my ridiculous pronunciations of "grrr-lane oh-duh-noot" and "ives saint low-rent pear-us" with a naïve confidence that matched my own...  Poster for the German version of The Women by George Cukor, Die Frauen, via Rudolf Benda
Continue reading "Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 3 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}" »
 Ever wondered what goes on in the mind of a fragrance model and what happens behind a perfume counter? Christina Warinner tells her story. See Part 1: Stardust, if you've missed it. Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by guest contributor Christina WarinnerPart 2: The HuntSo, it turns out that "fragrance model" is a euphemism for "predatory perfume pusher." You might think that having annoying women chase you around with fragrance sticks would make you less likely to buy an overpriced bottle of floral extracts, but quite to the contrary. In the fragrance world, the philosophy is that once you catch a whiff of that magical scent you will be unable to resist the purchase. It's the fragrance model's job to track you down and spray. The problem is that our prey knows the ruse and goes to great lengths to avoid capture. The customers were deft and devised all sorts of clever false starts and fake-outs to skirt our counter. The seasoned ones entered and immediately ducked right, into the baby department. From there they could circle around through the children's section, then through scarves and handbags, and eventually emerge victorious behind us at the foot of the elevator. These clever trophy wives were fast and couldn't be caught. They shopped every day and knew the store inside and out. They mocked us with their pouting botox lips and perky silicone breasts as they ascended to the second floor...
Continue reading "Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 2 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}" »
 The Women, 1939, by George Cukor via Nicorama Today, TSS brings to you the first part of a story in four installments, that of one time fragrance model Christina Warinner who is now engaged in vastly different pursuits, doing archaeological work in Central America. In the one year in which she operated as a fragrance model, she managed to make enough of an impact in the industry to be honored as "Stardust's national Employee of the Month for highest sales." Here is her story, unadorned, and delightfully non-PC. Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by guest contributor Christina Warinner
November 1998: "Stardust is our newest winter fragrance. It has a warm, rich, floral scent that is perfect for the holiday season."
February 1999: "Stardust is one of our new spring fragrances. It has a light, clean, fresh scent that is perfect for the upcoming summer months."
Part 1: StardustFor one year in the late 1990s, I was a fragrance model for Parfums Llewellyn at a now defunct department store in Leawood, Kansas, a wealthy suburb of Kansas City. I was a college student at the time and needed a job with minimum hours and maximum pay. At $16.50 an hour and 3-10 flexible hours a week, becoming a fragrance model seemed ideal. Admittedly, it was an odd marriage - I have terrible allergies and I hate perfume. But money was money, and I was willing to suffer - Claritin and tissues in hand - in order to save up for a study abroad program in Belize. In fair disclosure, I had previously worked in the fragrance industry. In high school, I briefly held a holiday job in the Victoria's Secret fragrance department at the local mall, only to be transferred after two days to the lingerie dressing room. Apparently, bloodshot eyes and incessant sneezing were not desired traits in an employee. At least my math skills were put to good use in my new hypoallergenic capacity as a "bra fitter."...
Continue reading "Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 1 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}" »
Madame Figaro interviewed the co-president of Fragonard, Agnès Costa who directs the perfumery together with her sister Françoise. « Je ne suis pas un nez, mais je briefe la personne qui va créer le parfum et pour moi, la personne qui sait quelle fragrance elle cherche est aussi importante que l’artiste chargé de la mettre au point. » "I am not a nose, but I brief the person who will create the perfume and for me, the person who knows what fragrance she [or he] is looking for is as important as the artist who is entrusted with making it happen."
Read more......
Fragrant Readings Archive
Page 6 of 11 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
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Fin O'Suilleabhain on
Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}
: Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...
Thalestris Dupont on
Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review}
: Lovely perfume! Reminds me of the spring 2011 when I was wearing ...
Karen Lindsey on
Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers}
: I just found this site and I so need to find someone ...
Regina on
Happy New Year 2012!
: Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations?
C Sasich on
Easy Tricks To Create Golden Globes Hairstyles! {Beauty Notes - Hair}
: My fave was Michelle Williams - modern , effortless not overdone . ...
kelvin neo on
Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances*
: Hi good day, Can i know where can purchase or order Pink ...
Alan on
A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading}
: Hell-scent candle, lol.
Gina on
Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes}
: I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ...
Tammy on
Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List}
: Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
evageli karounzou on
Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News}
: at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...
Mandy Aftel on
Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance}
: Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...
Kay on
Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam
: This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ...
Maddy on
Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa}
: Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...
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