Monthly Archives from March 2006

Fragrant Readings Archive

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November 20, 2008

Article on Vanilla & Preview of Upcoming Hermes Vanille Galante {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Thoughts}

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Vanilla, which has been in the recent past showcased as a main source of inspiration for perfumes such as Tihota by Indult composed by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian and Spiritueuse Double Vanille by Guerlain created by Jean-Paul Guerlain, while being announced as a key note in the upcoming Vanille Galante by Hermès in the Hermessence series, a work by Jean-Claude Ellena, has visibly awoken the interests of some of the major perfumers of the day. 

L'Express is devoting an article to this beloved, indispensable ingredient of perfumery in more or less high doses including a Q & A with perfumer Jean-Paul Duriez of the house of Patou.

From that article we excerpt, translate and comment on a quote regarding the new Vanille Galante (Flirtatious Vanilla) to be launched in February 2009...

Continue reading "Article on Vanilla & Preview of Upcoming Hermes Vanille Galante {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Thoughts}" »

November 19, 2008

Atypical Research on Air Fresheners {Fragrant Reading}

STINK.JPGA late link to an article published in September 2008 in the Wall Street Journal on current research on the development of air fresheners, the thinking and science behind the venture,

"Traditionally, air fresheners have tried to cover bad smells with a blanket of stronger but more tolerable ones. IFF believes that by charting the chemical properties of select odors, it can make the fight more focused. The idea is to assail an offending molecule with a fragrance--included in a cleaning product, for example, or an air freshener--that can counter or cover it.(...)

Next, an extreme tobacco addiction is heartily sought out, found, and embraced,...

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October 30, 2008

Beauty Talk Dictionnaire - Dictionary (2008) {Fragrant Reading - New Book}


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For those interested in both beauty and perfume, a new bilingual dictionary by Michel Husson entitled Beauty Talk dictionnaire de la parfumerie, de la cosmétologie & des produits de beauté français-anglais/anglais-français and Dictionary of Perfumery, Cosmetology & Beauty Products - English-French/French-English, has come out this month.

Twelve themes are developed, perfume being one of them, alongside with skin, skin and sun, hair, packaging, etc...

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September 28, 2008

Plaisirs de Parfums: New Book (2008) {Fragrant Reading}


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The Editions Paja will publish a new book on perfume in October-November 2008 authored by Béatrice Boissière under the artistic direction of Coco Tassel. It is entitled Plaisirs de Parfums (Pleasures of Perfumes) and proposes to retrace a world history of fragrances since the 19th century with attention devoted to the compositions of fragrances and anecdotes on the milieu of perfumers. Long-lost fragrances are also not forgotten...

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September 17, 2008

A Gasoline Perfume Is Hard To Create Says Christopher Brosius {Fragrant Reading}


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No gasoline!


I happened on en entry by perfumer Christopher Brosius of CB I Hate Perfume regarding the difficulty of recreating a gasoline perfume. His is a commentary precisely on Kate Moss's desire to capture the alluring (for many as it turns out) scent of gas.

This made me remember that a certain number of flowers, like tuberose or jasmine, can naturally have top notes smelling like gasoline. Tubéreuse Criminelle by Serge Lutens developed this naturally-occurring facet for example....

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September 12, 2008

Memo Jannat For Kids & Grownups (2008) {New Fragrance} - New Book By Clara Molloy {Fragrant Reading}

Jannat-Memo.jpgNiche perfume brand Memo founder Clara Molloy is preparing to launch a duo of perfumes for adults and children in September in her Les Echappées collection called Jannat meaning paradise in Urdu and other languages of the Middle East. The grown-up version is an eau de parfum and the kiddie one is a lighter eau fraîche. They were created by perfumer Aliénor Massenet, like the rest of the brand's offerings...

Jannat-Book.jpg

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September 10, 2008

Roja Dove The Esssence of Perfume: New Book {Fragrant Reading} {Shopping Tip}


The-Essence-of-Perfume.jpgFragrance expert Roja Dove has written his first book on the subject of his long-time passion, entitled The Essence of Perfume. While he is known for his lectures and frequent appearances in the media, as well as his temple of bon goût dedicated to the art of perfumery, the Haute Parfumerie at Harrods, he had not felt the need so far to write down his thoughts...

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September 9, 2008

Article About Olivia Giacobetti: IUNX Is Back In Business {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}


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To me, perfumer Olivia Giacobetti is a little bit like the feminine counterpart to perfumer Jean Claude Ellena. Both are fascinated by the element water and its smell. Both are obsessed with transparent, diaphanous textures. Both plow their paths in this perfumery direction in a very consistent, deep manner. Both not just do this kind of perfumery but enjoy less ethereal unusual gourmand accords (in fact both seem to love to eat good food).

To compare their works more closely would be extremely interesting.

The September 2008 issue of the magazine Atmosphères has a 1-page article about perfumer-composer Olivia Giacobetti, who reveals that she "cannot stand not to smell good".

In order to be able to perfume herself while respecting the constraint of olfactory neutrality she needs to have for her work, she reportedly just dabs on two drops of a diluted version of IUNX Eau Blanche on her neck so that it has time to evaporate by the time she reaches her lab...

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August 13, 2008

Article about Perfume Imitation & Copyrights: The Dutch Position {Fragrant Reading}

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Here is a very interesting article by Prof. Kamiel Koelman from the Vrije Universiteit in Amsterdam which summarizes the position on perfume copyrights in Holland as based on the case of Trésor by Lancôme, which was examined by the courts in 2006. The paper raises a host of philosophical, biological, and legal questions and reveals the complexity of the issue.

"The French cosmetics company, Lancôme, sells an exclusive perfume under the name Trésor (Treasure). Kecofa, a small Dutch firm, sells its Female Treasure perfume at a tenth of the price.  Lancôme had previously tried to stop Kecofa by invoking its trademark right to the word Trésor, but failed, because the courts found that consumers were unlikely to confuse the  brands. In 2000, after the Dutch Trademark act was updated, Lancôme tried again, but this time also claimed infringement of its copyright in the perfume. The trademark claim failed once more, but - probably to Lancôme's surprise - the copyright claim succeeded and was further sanctioned by the Dutch High Court.1

Coincidentally, just three days before, the French Supreme Court had ruled that a perfume - Dior's Dune - was not copyrightable. The French court likened parfumeurs to mere craftsmen, like carpenters or plumbers, rather than artists, and as such found their works not eligible for copyright protection.2...

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July 22, 2008

Romano Ricci Gives Out His Good Addresses {Fragrant Reading}

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Romano Ricci © Ryan Carter/The National

Romano Ricci, the founder and owner of young fragrance brand Juliette Has A Gun established in 2006, declares that his signature style is classic with a twist. Follows a list of his best addresses for food and clothes in Paris in this very laid-back interview with The National in which he discusses mostly of his tastes and mentions very discreetly at the end his upcoming perfume, Citizen Queen,...

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July 17, 2008

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 4 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}



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I was a Shoplifter, movie poster from Paxarcana

Please read Part 1: Stardust, Part 2: The Hunt, and Part 3: Jargon, if you missed them


Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by Guest Contributor Christina Warinner


Part 4: Special Clients


At our store, we had two very special clients. Both were over sixty, fabulously wealthy, and committed shoplifters. They were distinct, however, in method and manner. The first, Mrs. L, repeatedly returned an empty bottle of Chanel No. 5 parfum, complaining that it smelled terribly. She couldn't wear it, and she would demand a new bottle to replace it. The trouble was that she did wear it, obviously, which is why the bottle was always returned empty. She had a grandiose style, and she'd fling her shawl over her left shoulder for dramatic emphasis as she described its terrible, stale stink to everyone in eavesdropping range. A few pages into the well-worn script at this point, I'd play along, abhorred, and call our store manager, who'd shepherd her into his secluded office. Thirty minutes later she'd emerge, beaming, with a new bottle of Chanel (I think he kept a case in his office). Then he'd discreetly send off a bill to her husband...

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July 16, 2008

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 3 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}


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Perfume Jargon by Jewel Photography


Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model by Guest Contributor Christina Warinner


Please read Part 1: Stardust and Part 2: The Hunt, if you've missed them


Part 3: Jargon

The trouble with the fragrance industry is that most of its jargon is in French. I do not speak French. In school, I studied German, which is pretty much the opposite of French. Thus, putting me in a position to stumble through a menagerie of French fragrance terms on a daily basis was in every sense of the word a massacre. At the end of the day, the French language lie dying and bleeding at my feet, only to be resurrected again the next day for a repeat performance. I got by with a horrid German pronunciation of vowels mixed in with a healthy deletion of random consonants until Champs Elysees became "Shons el-ees-us." Fortunately, working at an expensive new department store in a nouveau riche Midwestern suburb, my clients didn't know the difference and would parrot my ridiculous pronunciations of "grrr-lane oh-duh-noot" and "ives saint low-rent pear-us" with a naïve confidence that matched my own...

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Poster for the German version of The Women by George Cukor, Die Frauen, via Rudolf Benda

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July 15, 2008

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 2 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}

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Pinball by Bellabelinksy

Ever wondered what goes on in the mind of a fragrance model and what happens behind a perfume counter? Christina Warinner tells her story. See Part 1: Stardust, if you've missed it.


Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model
by guest contributor Christina Warinner


Part 2: The Hunt

So, it turns out that "fragrance model" is a euphemism for "predatory perfume pusher." You might think that having annoying women chase you around with fragrance sticks would make you less likely to buy an overpriced bottle of floral extracts, but quite to the contrary. In the fragrance world, the philosophy is that once you catch a whiff of that magical scent you will be unable to resist the purchase. It's the fragrance model's job to track you down and spray. The problem is that our prey knows the ruse and goes to great lengths to avoid capture.

The customers were deft and devised all sorts of clever false starts and fake-outs to skirt our counter. The seasoned ones entered and immediately ducked right, into the baby department. From there they could circle around through the children's section, then through scarves and handbags, and eventually emerge victorious behind us at the foot of the elevator. These clever trophy wives were fast and couldn't be caught. They shopped every day and knew the store inside and out. They mocked us with their pouting botox lips and perky silicone breasts as they ascended to the second floor...

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July 14, 2008

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 1 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}


The-Women-Perfume-Counter.jpg
The Women, 1939, by George Cukor via Nicorama


Today, TSS brings to you the first part of a story in four installments, that of one time fragrance model Christina Warinner who is now engaged in vastly different pursuits, doing archaeological work in Central America. In the one year in which she operated as a fragrance model, she managed to make enough of an impact in the industry to be honored as "Stardust's national Employee of the Month for highest sales." Here is her story, unadorned, and delightfully non-PC.

Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model
by guest contributor Christina Warinner


November 1998:
"Stardust is our newest winter fragrance. It has a warm, rich, floral scent that is perfect for the holiday season."

February 1999:
 "Stardust is one of our new spring fragrances. It has a light, clean, fresh scent that is perfect for the upcoming summer months."



Part 1: Stardust

For one year in the late 1990s, I was a fragrance model for Parfums Llewellyn at a now defunct department store in Leawood, Kansas, a wealthy suburb of Kansas City. I was a college student at the time and needed a job with minimum hours and maximum pay. At $16.50 an hour and 3-10 flexible hours a week, becoming a fragrance model seemed ideal.

Admittedly, it was an odd marriage - I have terrible allergies and I hate perfume. But money was money, and I was willing to suffer - Claritin and tissues in hand - in order to save up for  a study abroad program in Belize. In fair disclosure, I had previously worked in the fragrance industry. In high school, I briefly held a holiday job in the Victoria's Secret fragrance department at the local mall, only to be transferred after two days to the lingerie dressing room. Apparently, bloodshot eyes and incessant sneezing were not desired traits in an employee. At least my math skills were put to good use in my new hypoallergenic capacity as a "bra fitter."...

Continue reading "Confessions of an Ex-Fragrance Model - Part 1 {Fragrant Reading - Writing}" »

June 23, 2008

Interview with Agnès Costa of Fragonard Perfumery {Fragrant Reading}

Fragonard-Factory-Usine.jpg

Madame Figaro interviewed the co-president of Fragonard, Agnès Costa who directs the perfumery together with her sister Françoise.

« Je ne suis pas un nez, mais je briefe la personne qui va créer le parfum et pour moi, la personne qui sait quelle fragrance elle cherche est aussi importante que l’artiste chargé de la mettre au point. »

"I am not a nose, but I brief the person who will create the perfume and for me, the person who knows what fragrance she [or he] is looking for is as important as the artist who is entrusted with making it happen." 

Read more...... 

 

Fragrant Readings Archive

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