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Fragrant Readings Archive
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 The Hindu interviews perfumer Véronique Nyberg of IFF about the creative process in perfumery. The nose created most recently Trésor in Love (with Dominique Ropion) (2010), Amor Amor Delight (2010) (with Carlos Benaïm and Anne Flipo), Moschino Glamour (2008)...
Continue reading "Perfumer Véronique Nyberg Talks about the Ropes of Fragrance-Making {Fragrant Reading}" »
  Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena responds to French news title Le Figaro Magazine on the occasion of the launch of Voyage, his latest opus. I excerpted a quote from the article about his personal definition of the finite work of art in perfumery and translated it. I am not entirely positive about this, but his reflection in this case seems to be influenced by the concept which was developed by Italian semiotician Umberto Eco in Opera Aperta, 1962 (The Open Work.) He also invokes the influence of nouvelle cuisine and one can wonder then how his perfumery could be influenced by the new generation of cuisine, molecular cuisine. He confesses to not being a big fan of travels, rather preferring encounters with people, a painting, a book. Finally, I added a short list of official fragrance "materials" as they put it, to my review of Voyage as I serendipitously received some information about them. I think the distinction here between " notes" and " materials" would be that a "note" is this idea of controlled final effect while a "material" can be added for an unexpected effect going beyond what the material is supposed to express originally. In other words, a material can be sculptured, molded, while a note is a description and a finite interpretation of a material. A note is coded, a material is open to interpretation...
Continue reading "Jean-Claude Ellena's Latest Reflections on Perfumery {Fragrant Reading} {Scented Quote of the Day}" »
 Little girl smelling a flower at John F. Kennedy's wedding reception by Lisa Larsen, via All Posters.The upcoming months, from May to September 2010 will see the release of
no less than 8 new books focusing on the sense of smell. Is it still
the most neglected of the senses? It seems that an evolution is taking
place, largely in the English-language world for this cycle and that the answer needs
to be qualified now. The movement is strongly didactic in tone - which
is a public confession that sleeves need to be rolled up to educate our
noses better and earlier on as the output is aimed in great part at
children, the future of society. From this crop of new tomes, no
less than 6 are dedicated to the
education of young noses as the age target is said to be from 4 to 8
years old. There are regularly new books for children emphasizing the
sense of smell, but the harvest is particularly bountiful this time. One
book addresses the issue of anosmia, a topic that has been popular in
the media. Another one is about the interrelationship between smell,
but also taste, feel, look, action, and sexuality...
Continue reading "8 New Upcoming Books on Smell {Fragrant Readings} {Fragrance News}" »
 An article looks at a new technique called "Material Degradomics" now used to diagnose the state of degradation of a book by using the sense of smell to analyze the famously musty odor profile of old, dusty tomes.
"Dr Strlic; said: "The aroma of an old book is familiar to every user of a
traditional library.
"A combination of grassy notes with a tang of acids and a hint of
vanilla over an underlying mustiness, this unmistakable smell is as much a
part of the book as its contents.
"It is the result of the several hundred VOCs off-gassing from paper and
the object in general."....
Continue reading "Smell Forensics of Old Books or Material Degradomics {Fragrant Readings}" »
"When you have an iconic product, Rule No. 1: Never forget quality;
Rule No. 2: Deliver what you promise; Rule No. 3: Don't change the
packaging."
Jan Masters interviews Leonard Lauder, the eldest son of Estée Lauder and chairman emeritus of the Estée Lauder Companies Inc, for Harrods. Perfume-wise we learn of an upcoming fragrance by Bobbi Brown and of a special commemorative solid perfume compact of Beautiful for Harrods; the sensitive sense of smell of Leonard Lauder is confirmed. We also take a peek into one of Estée's bathrooms, one modeled after the shape of the bottle of Youth-Dew...  "The Estée Lauder 50th Anniversary Compact filled with Beautiful solid perfume, £200
Coming Soon"
Continue reading "Harrods Interview Leonard Lauder {Fragrant Reading}" »
 International perfume expert Michael Edwards has published the 26th annual edition of his work with Fragrances of the World 2010/ Parfums du Monde 2010. The new edition lists 7000 fragrances including 800 new releases. The cover features an artwork by perfumer Michel Roudnitska. Edwards was inducted into the Australian Fragrance Foundation Hall of Fame last summer. "Besides the new standout scents
that capture our attention as well as the classics that increase with
popularity each year, the most notable trend in the industry right now comes
from the growth in niche products," said Michael Edwards...
Continue reading "Fragrances of the World 2010 by Michael Edwards {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Perfume author Annick Le Guérer will publish a new book from December 17, 2009 entitled Si le parfum m' était conté (If The Story of Perfume Were Told to Me) at Editions Garde-Temps made in collaboration with l'Osmothèque in Versailles. The foreword was written by the President of the Osmothèque Patricia de Nicolaï. Like other tomes at the publishing house and her previous work Quand le parfum portait remède, the book is transformed into a less abstract object that is usual for print and scented with 12 perfumes from the past....
Continue reading "Annick Le Guerer Si Le Parfum m'etait Conte (2009) {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}" »
 The French magazine Psychologies has consecrated its November-December 09 supplement issue to Happiness, The Ultimate Luxury (yes, it's come to that). One of the articles is about perfume and asks 11 perfumers what their favorite flowers are from the standpoint of olfaction. The perfumers that were interviewed are: Jacques Cavallier, Christine Nagel, Jean-Michel Duriez, Jean-Claude Ellena, Olivier Cresp (an insert), Mathilde Laurent, Thierry Wasser, Ben Gorham, Francis Kurkdjian, François Demachy, Serge Lutens, Jacques Polge...
Continue reading "Favorite Flowers of Perfumers {Fragrant Reading}" »
 Okay, no, not really. We don't know if there will be an Eau de Maverick by Sarah Palin in 2012 although someone had the idea of doing a spoof inspired by the opening paragraph of her memoir, Going Rogue, which clearly shows that Palin is sensitive to smells although the resulting bottled blend would probably be too meaty for my nose. Nice in the open air though. I nevertheless appreciate the priceless line inserted in the middle of that paragraph,...
Continue reading "Sarah Palin Eau de Maverick (2012) {New Perfume}" »
 The Untouchables, 1959 via dga.orgMichelin hotel-and-restaurant guides are arguably the Rolls Royce of gastronomy reviews guides. Or rather one could propose, The Untouchables of the food reviewing world. In what looks like a scoop, The New Yorker was able to investigate the
work of a Michelin inspector. They are the shadowy figures that review
and critique hundreds of restaurants incognito. No one knows them as they like to operate like food spies to ensure stringent independence of judgment. The article by John Colapinto is the result of the temporary softening of the draconian standards of the
guide which prohibits their food critics from revealing their identities. The
interview was conducted under the debonnaire yet
watchful gaze of Jean-Luc Naret, the managing director of the guides who is making a PR effort to make the New-York-City audience better understand their ethos. Reportedly, "Gallic opacity" is not completely effective at the local level. The piece raises more generally the question of desirable anonymity for a critic or of how close a
critic ought to be to the industry he or she critiques.
Michelin's answer is exceptionally simple: don't even go there.
Sacrifice your social life. We're not here to exchange pleasantries
and network and get cues from industry insiders but to be taken (dead) seriously by the public. Integrity is a prerequisite. The result: chefs lust after their stars like for no other restaurant guides. The New Yorker: Lunch with M.
 In an interview given to an Italian publication, perfumer Maurice Roucel of Symrise compares the art of perfume composition to the art of writing. He underlines the differences between the technical aspect of perfumery and the more intuitive, creative one. The act of creation remains somewhat magical, mysterious. He confides that like all the other perfumers he is looking for the blue note of jazz in perfume, the perfect note, but that at the same time his primary motivation remains to bring something positive to the lives of perfume-wearers. A perfume to which he is particularly attached he reveals and calls unforgettable was one worn by his grand-mother called Le Ciel de Paris. When his grand-mother finished the perfume bottle he added water so that the scent could come to life again. How lovely is that! Read more in I Profumi? Crearli è un'arte come scrivere...
 For those who can read French (you can also try using Babelfish or Google Translate to get the gist of the online articles) there is an informative report on the state of the perfume industry in Grasse in L'Express.fr. There is apparently a move to put Grasse more firmly on the national and international perfume-industry map and a push to encourage its members to become more politically involved and learn to lobby more aggressively. Dossier: Les défis de l'industrie du parfum à Grasse
 There is an article well-worth reading in the December issue of Perfumer & Flavorist. Written by Stephen Douthwaite of PerfumersWorld, it makes the point that even professionals in the industry do not necessarily possess the right techniques or work in the right conditions to smell perfumes and flavors. The piece then proceeds to present a number of technical and methodological approaches. Here is a particularly eloquent passage to pinpoint one aspect of the problem, "...please take a moment to consider this question: "Where is the worse place to smell a perfume compound sample? Places that likely come to mind include kitchens, bathrooms, coffee shops and smoking rooms. Few people would cite the truly worst place, the place where most professional perfumers actually do their initial smelling evaluation of samples -- the odorotheque, the perfumery laboratory. There may be hundreds of perfumery materials lining the shelves in these spaces, all of them emanating tiny amounts of odorous molecules. Trying to smell analytically in such an atmosphere would be like trying to listen to Eric Satie's "Gymnopes" piano piece on a noisy playground. Yes, it's possible to do so, but not truly conductive to getting the most from the music."
Continue reading "Using the Brain (Not The Nose) To Smell by Stephen Douthwaite {Fragrant Reading}" »
 A new book aiming to shed further light on the contribution of French luxury brands to the national patrimony and economy was released in October 2009. The work features 135 brands. The study is entitled Marques de luxes françaises (French Luxury Brands) by author Jean Watin-Augouard, 354 p, Eyrolles. Watin-Augouard is a specialist of the history of brands. The book can be seen as both an update of his last publication Histoires de marques (2006) as well as a closer look taken at the field of luxury...
Continue reading "New Book on French Luxury Brands: Marques de Luxe Francaises by Jean Watin-Augouard {Fragrant Reading}" »
Fragrant Readings Archive
Page 3 of 11 • 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11
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Fin O'Suilleabhain on
Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}
: Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...
Thalestris Dupont on
Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review}
: Lovely perfume! Reminds me of the spring 2011 when I was wearing ...
Karen Lindsey on
Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers}
: I just found this site and I so need to find someone ...
Regina on
Happy New Year 2012!
: Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations?
C Sasich on
Easy Tricks To Create Golden Globes Hairstyles! {Beauty Notes - Hair}
: My fave was Michelle Williams - modern , effortless not overdone . ...
kelvin neo on
Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances*
: Hi good day, Can i know where can purchase or order Pink ...
Alan on
A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading}
: Hell-scent candle, lol.
Gina on
Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes}
: I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ...
Tammy on
Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List}
: Wish this came with a little print out sheet for my next ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
Toñi on
Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
: Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...
evageli karounzou on
Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News}
: at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...
Mandy Aftel on
Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance}
: Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...
Kay on
Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam
: This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ...
Maddy on
Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa}
: Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...
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