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NOTEBOOKS Archive
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 Stella by Stella McCartney is available from this summer 2011 in a limited-edition trio called The Print Collection. The look was inspired by the Spring-Summer 2011 fashion collection of the designer which saw magnifying use of antique botanical prints rendered in vivid, rich colors. To emphasize the narrow bridge existing between fashion and perfume, the advertising shows three models literally wearing the fragrance flacons on themselves...
Continue reading "Stella McCartney Stella The Print Collection (2011) {Fragrance News - New Flacon} {Fashion Notes}" »
 Independent label James Heeley have released a new perfume called Hippie Rose which was reportedly 5 years in the making. The scent takes up the challenge of tackling an often-smellled accord, rose-patchouli, to give it a new twist, apparently.
Images of the California desert conflates with those of hippies visiting temples in the Himalayas while the psychedelic period is paid homage to on the bottle...
Continue reading "James Heeley Hippie Rose (2011): California Desert Meets the Himalayas {New Perfume} {Rose Notebook}" »
 The French mail-order brand founded by the niece of Yves Rocher, Isabel Derroisné, have launched a new fragrance in their 100% natural perfume range inspired by gardens from around the world. In 2011, Southern Turkey serves as reference with Jardin d'Antalya which completes the collection already comprising Jardin de Sicile and Jardin de Bali...
Continue reading "Isabel Derroisné Jardin d'Antalya (2011): 100% Natural Loukoum {New Fragrance} {Rose Notebook} {Green Fragrance}" »
Clair Matin means something akin to "a bright and early morn" in French. It is what the upcoming new perfume by Les Parfums de Rosine was baptized and it is now about to be unveiled in New York City this week. It will be one of their four new launches this year. The composition was reportedly inspired by the first rose tree, a dog-rose tree, that brand founder Marie-Hélène Rogeon planted in her rose garden located in her property in Picardie. The new scent is yet another research into the perfumes of roses, the house's trademark olfactory signature. I find Clair Matin to present interesting nuances, mostly for the rose lover, I am tempted to say, more so than for the perfume lover who might be looking for a stronger statement and state-of-the-art perfumery instead of being wooed by naturalness. For rose lovers always on the lookout for new rose perfumes, be it known that this is a tart, green composition with a certain level of complexity to it despite it being of a lighter concentration, it being an "Eau Fraîche." The scent eschews the most predictable shortcut to a clean, aseptic and transparent rose treatment while managing to be refreshing, crisp and fruity. The blend offers a balanced charm with little touches here and there that connoisseurs will appreciate, and an understated yet definite push in the direction of tangy. Notes: raspberry leaves absolute, Italian lemon essence, blackcurrant bud / camomile, violet, Turkish rose essence, peony / musk, apricot, sandalwood, amber...
Continue reading "Les Parfums de Rosine Clair Matin (2011) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}" »
 French niche perfume house Teo Cabanel, originally established in 1893 and reopened more recently in 2005 will launch a new fragrance this fall called Early Roses from September 2010. The eau de parfum is described as being " floral, aerial and subtle," inspired as it is by the vision of a stroll taken in a rose garden in the early morning....
Continue reading "Teo Cabanel Early Roses (2010): Morning Roses {New Perfume} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Coup de Foudre by Parfums DelRae is the new fragrance by the San-Francisco perfume brand founded by DelRae Roth in 2000. It is offered as a rose composition signed by perfumer Yann Vasnier who also created last year's iris composition by the same house called Mythique. The name which means "Love at First Sight" in French is an allusion to DelRae Roth's as well as Yann Vasnier's love of roses rather than to a throbbing love story. As Roth confirmed when I asked her about the inspiration for the scent, which I thought might contain an allusion to Diane de Poitiers's known predilection for rose and lily of the valley, (she dedicated an iris perfume to Diane de Poitiers in 2009.) She confirmed that " Diane de Poitiers was not part of the inspiration for Coup de Foudre, although I do, without a doubt, think she would love Coup de Foudre. My personal love of roses and my own romantic sensibilities were my inspiration. And, Yann loves roses too!"
In her newsletter, DelRae Roth penned her background story, "Roses have always been my favorite flowers. In their infinite variety
they never disappoint. For years I collected books on roses and made
lists of my favorites. I often went to the various rose gardens in the
area; the Berkeley rose garden, the rose garden in Golden Gate Park and
others. But I never had a rose garden. And then-- years ago I rented a
small cottage in Berkeley hidden at the back of a very large and
overgrown parcel. On my birthday one year, I came home from work to
find my brother Patrick had transformed this urban jungle into a rose
garden."
Notes: spicy pink peppercorn, bergamot, Italian lemon 'sfumatrice', pink grapefruit, Rose de Mai France Orpur absolute, Purple Peony, Egyptian jasmine absolute, creamy magnolia Orpur, geranium bourbon, tonka from Venezuela, vetyver, white moss, velvet musks... 
Summer Roses by Cora Ogden
Continue reading "Parfums DelRae Coup de Foudre (2010): Rose Lover's Cup of Tea {Perfume Review & Musings} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Une Rose au Bord de la Mer (A Rose by the Seaside) by Les Parfums de Rosine is the latest opus by the house destined to women
(Rosissime is their latest masculine cologne) and the third one in the
range of the Eaux Légères (Light Waters) for the summer. It is a limited-edition which
was released in May of 2010 in a timely fashion to coincide with
the period of anticipation of holidays by the sea. The Eau Fraîche was
composed by perfumer François Robert and is his second "marine floral" for the house after Ecume de Rose (Rose Sea Spray) (2002). At
this point in the genealogy of modern marine perfumes (see A 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents), it appears
that the challenge is to refine the concept, if not necessarily renew it, while
still carving out the
possibility for fine perfumery to paint artistic, evocative marine
landscapes. The fresh seaside
breeze accord having become such a signature in home fragrances, not to
mention the more localized bathroom fragrances, there is the risk of an
automatic sentiment of a lack of refinement when smelling a scent which feels too much like a smell counterfeiting the sea. Indeed, a
seaside holiday is a symbolic currency worth something these days...  Roses and Koi by David Kroll, 2008
Continue reading "Les Parfums de Rosine Une Rose au Bord de la Mer (2010) {Perfume Review & Musings} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Annick Goutal will launch a new perfume this fall from September 2010 in homage to the memory of founder Annick Goutal's love for roses. It is called Rose Splendide. Previously, Muguet had also been created in reference to Annick Goutal's attachment to the 1st of May celebration...
Continue reading "Annick Goutal Rose Splendide Pays Homage to Perfume House Founder (2010) {New Fragrance}" »
 Since 2004 when the first flanker Sheer Stella was introduced as a spring/summer edition of the original Stella launched in 2003 and signed by perfumer Jacques Cavallier, an annual edition has been released each year. In 2010, there is a nature-bound Persian organic-rose twist to the lovely first rose composition which is out as a limited-edition...
Continue reading "Stella McCartney Sheer Stella(2010): Organically Yours {New Perfume} {Rose Notebook}" »
  Bond No9 have once again partnered with New York city department store Saks Fifth Avenue to offer this
time a homage to the classic of classics among flowers, the Rose. The
new scent is called Saks-en-Rose (lit. "Saks in Pink" in French with a double entendre, "Saks in a rose perfume"). The previous comingling of the " uptown-downtown DNA of these two businesses" resulted in a memorable, for me, gardenia fragrance, Saks Fifth Avenue for Her and a men's cologne Saks Fifth Avenue for Him. "Saks-en-Rose, as the eau de parfum will be known, marks a departure from your grandmother's rose. This is an ease-ful rose, self-possessed, future-oriented and multi-functional--beguiling on an evening out, informal over the weekend."...
Continue reading "Bond No.9 Saks-en-Rose (2010): a "Modern Petal-Pink Rose" {New Fragrance} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Secrets de Rose (Rose Secrets) is the 16th rose composition by Les Parfums
de Rosine which specialize in sculpturing the different facets and
interpretations of the queen of flowers. It was created in 2009 based on particular qualities of natural rose and labdanum ingredients and launched this January-February 2010. This time, one is offered a dark-rose
interpretation, the scent of " a rose
dressed in black,' which was made to feel more shadowy thanks to notes
of prune, licorice, amber resin and labdanum while being spiced up with
saffron, ylang and cumin.
It is also, as it turns out, what l would like to term an
affective patrimonial perfume, a
composition destined to noses who can appreciate the continuities
of the living history of perfume, this olfactory historiography found
throughout contemporary compositions rather than in the pages of history books...
Continue reading "Les Parfums de Rosine Secrets de Rose (2010): Dinner with Chamade, with Notes on Patrimonial Perfumes {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Rose d'Amour (Rose of Love) is a rose composition inspired by Chanel No5 and its original dwarfing overdose of aldehydes. What I like about this perfume is that perfumer Camille Latron
managed to convey the modernist, daring and revolutionary sides of
aldehydes, the manner in which they must have exploded onto the scene
in 1921...
Continue reading "Les Parfums de Rosine Rose d'Amour (2005): Uncompromising Constructivist Rose {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Papier d'Arménie (Paper from Armenia) is a brand established in 1885 famous for its salubrious booklets of papers that diffuse a sanitizing scent when they burn. They smell exquisitely of benzoin from Laos. After offering a modern adaptation of their classic in 2006 which was revisited by perfumer Francis Kurkdjian, the brand launched a new line called La Rose in November 2009...
Continue reading "Papier d'Armenie La Rose (2009) {New Perfume} {Home Fragrance} {Rose Notebook}" »
   If I wanted to smell like the overheated dressing room of a 1950s Hollywood actress getting ready to go on the set or the stage, this is what I would wear. The new Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One captures more than the scent of a big, luscious and aquatic rose-peony-lychee bouquet with all its sails out, it also evokes fleetingly the rapid, inner sensations of a backstage beauty atmosphere.
In this setting, one can sense that the actress is slightly bothered by the artificial electric heat, the excitement of having to show herself to the world and one can smell her nervous musky perspiration, the body powder melting a bit on clean skin, the whiffs of makeup, nail polish, and of course, there must be a huge bouquet somewhere in the room with fluorescent roses and Madonna lilies smelling a bit of Marmite. Perhaps there is an electric kettle in the room to explain the slightly muggy, tropical quality.
I am reminded of distant smells from the past from classical dancing studios where chalk, sweat, dust and the scent of youth mingle. Perhaps if you added a fresh rose bouquet to a painting of ballerinas by Degas, it would smell a bit like this...
Continue reading "Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One (2009): The Scent of Backstage Beauty: Florist Rose {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}" »
 Chloé Eau de Parfum was launched in 2008 as a successor, in name only, to the original Chloé from 1975, a tuberose-laden soliflore perfume with an immense if not for some an overbearing presence to outwit Fracas created under Karl Lagerfeld's tenure at Chloé. The new Chloé attaches itself symbolically to this heritage like a descendant bearing the same first name. But in the hands of perfumers Michel Almairac and Amandine Marie of Robertet it was turned into a completely different person except for the fact that this time too it is a floral perfume with a marked propensity to be a soliflore and that there is a little hint of Narcisse by Chloé (1992), another lesser known floral predecessor from the same brand. Chloé in 2008 turns out to my surprise to be a beautiful even touching rose composition. It reveals an unexpected measure of originality, quiet charm and even a nostalgic and poetic atmosphere. But this is where I feel the need to draw a distinction between the beauty of the rose + litchi + peony + cedar accord that unfolds here, which is aesthetically compelling, and the whole texture of the composition itself which suffers a bit from the parcimonious attribution of riches. In other words, it feels like looking at a beautiful, sincerely drawn and painted aquarelle but realizing at the same time that some parts of it are not completely finished to full effect due to, say, the drought and lack of water....
Continue reading "Chloe Eau de Parfum by Chloe (2008): Closet Rose Soliflore {Perfume Review} {Rose Notebook}" »
NOTEBOOKS Archive
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