Monthly Archives from March 2006

Fragrant Readings Archive

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April 2, 2009

Jacques Polge & His Apartment Featured in Atmospheres {Fragrant Reading}


Atmosphères has an article about Jacques Polge the in-house perfumer for Chanel this April, and what is less commonly done, his apartment, in their Deco section. A perfumer renowned for his discretion, he has nevertheless taken the risk to open the doors of his abode located on the left bank, "...in a Parisian arrondissement bearing the lucky number [Editor's note: 5]" as the magazine puts it...

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March 23, 2009

Francois Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money (2009) {Fragrant Reading - New Book}


Coty-Toledano.jpgA new book on fragrance and press magnate François Coty entitled François Coty: Fragrance, Power, Money is out by authors Roulhac B. Toledano and Elizabeth Coty; the latter is the granddaughter-in-law of Coty and formerly the director of cosmetics and fragrance for Coty Inc.

There have been several books on Coty but this one seems to be less of a coffee-table book and more in the vein of the historical study François Coty, un industriel corse sous la IIIème République by Ghislaine Siccard-Picchiottino....

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March 19, 2009

Hatshepsut's Perfume - Part 2 {Fragrant Reading}


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The uncovered perfume bottle of Hatshepsut

The other day we posted about the archeological project under way of resurrecting Hatshepsut's perfume, a 3,500 vintage whose only dessicated remains still exist. Is it more dream or reality, you decide. I somehow feel that nothing really new is going to come out of this venture, like an unknown ingredient in the palette of perfumes of the Ancient Egyptians. Somehow, I imagine the perfume of a pharaoh to be quite codified especially in a funerary context, but maybe there was more room for individuality than we assume...

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The dried remains of the very ancient perfume

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February 24, 2009

A Guerlain Insider's Blog: Esprit de Parfum by Sylvaine Delacourte {Fragrant Reading}


blog-sylvaine-delacourte.jpgGuerlain's artistic director Sylvaine Delacourte has had a blog running for a little over a year now. It is not an official blog for the brand per se, but rather both a personal and professional blog about her experiences at Guerlain and in the world of fragrances (and flavors) more generally...

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February 21, 2009

Interview with Perfumer Gerrit van Logchem {Fragrant Reading}


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The chief perfumer of Mäurer & Wirtz, Gerrit van Logchem, was recently interviewed by Coop. He is the person currently in charge for the curating of the antique Eau de Cologne 4711.

Perfumery workshops are being organized by M & W and an ad campaign along the lines of an United Colors by Benetton is running on the site to give a fresher image to the eau de cologne. You can send e-postcards and download screensavers...

4711-E-Card.jpg

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Interview with Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian {Fragrant Reading}


Francis-Kurkdjian-Ma-Dame.jpgFrancis Kurkdjian talks to The National, a newspaper from the United Arabian Emirates about his profession, fashion, his tastes in clothing, the new Ma Dame by Jean Paul Gaultier,..

"When you are training, it's as if perfume is a foreign language. You have to go back to the basics and learn the alphabet: your ABCs become jasmine, rose, mandarin, orange, cedarwood and all the chemicals behind those. To make a fragrance is like building a story - you have to put sentences one after another to make sense of your story. It's very academic.

I'm not from a family of perfumers, and I don't play gimmicks such as recognising scents - I would say my talent is in my head. Noses are able to envision things that people don't smell yet. It's like music: the composer has in his head sounds that don't yet exist."

Read more in Perfumer has a nose for simple style...

February 19, 2009

Dior Perfumer François Demachy Interviewed by The Fragrance Foundation - Fragrant Reading


Francois_Demachy.JPGPerfumer François Demachy (see short biography & list of works) is more specifically attached to Dior as an in-house perfumer but in fact works as an olfactory artistic director for a number of prestigious perfume brands owned by the LVMH group (check bio). He is the subject of the latest interview by The Fragrance Foundation.

"Have you ever persisted in implementing your own ideas at Dior...for a perfume you felt you absolutely had to create?

"Yes, certain perfumes that are coming out soon, in fact, began with an idea I came up with...

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February 18, 2009

Serge Lutens Interview on Luxury + Video about Salons Shiseido {Fragrant Reading}


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French luxury webzine Elle Adore Le Luxe (She Adores Luxury) has an interview with Serge Lutens dating from 2008 on the topic of luxury. Excerpts:

"Luxury means being able to say...

                                       What one thinks...

Continue reading "Serge Lutens Interview on Luxury + Video about Salons Shiseido {Fragrant Reading} " »

February 10, 2009

A Guy's Guide to Perfume Shopping {Fragrant Reading}


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Ha, ha, ha! Laughter guaranteed with this article by Dan H. Woods about an imagined parallelism between perfume-shopping and paint-shopping. He asks the "what-if" question. What if the paint SA behaved with you, the guy, like the perfume SA usually behaves with your wife?...

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January 29, 2009

Best Advice for Valentine's Day: Sniff Your Partner {The 5th Sense in the News} - Valentine's Day Recap {Fragrant Readings}

 

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George Dodd answers the fundamental question of how best to reproduce your genes on the occasion of upcoming Valentine's Day 2009. Yes, I know, not very romantic-sounding, but that's what it is all about really, at a certain level of biological reality.

"On the evening of St Valentine's Day last year, I held the world's first sniff-dating event in the Dana Centre at the London Science Museum. Here are some top tips to help you sniff-out your perfect romantic partner...

With smell dating, we are effectively sniffing-out complementary genes in our partners' immune system so that we can have healthy babies. Mating and having healthy babies is crucial to survival, and part of this concerns our sense of smell.

Our personal portfolio of smell receptors will like the body odour of some partners more than others. Body odour is linked to human leukocyte antigen (HLA) genes, a key part of the immune system that recognises self from non-self. Couples whose HLA-related body odour is too similar are more likely to have difficulties in conceiving. This is real biological perfumery - the mating instinct at the molecular aroma level."

Read more in The Guardian...

Upcoming Valentine's features on The Scented Salamander:

To help you out on Valentine's Day, I will be posting about Perfumes That Smell Unique Because You Are Unique, and deserve nothing less than not to be betrayed by your perfume. If you don't feel unique, those will help you feel the part.

That was an interesting exercise and was inspired to me by the proteian quality of Vanille Galante by Hermès. A contrario, I thought to myself, what are those perfumes that I always recognize on others and have such a strong signature, replete with olfactory integrity? You might be suprised by my choices and I will explain my selection.

Watch also for my continuing series on musk perfumes. And in particular this time, I will be focusing on comparative reviews of MUSK OILS! I have been collecting a number of musk oils from all denominations for several months now and we will see what they have to offer!...

Continue reading "Best Advice for Valentine's Day: Sniff Your Partner {The 5th Sense in the News} - Valentine's Day Recap {Fragrant Readings}" »

January 9, 2009

Scents on a Plane? Eau No! Or How To Prevent Aroma-Triggered Air Rage {Fragrant Reading}


Scents-Plane-LA-Times.jpgTravel editor and blog writer Catharine Hamm answers a reader's query about how best to counteract olfactory nuisance in closed quarters and planes in particular (you really can't step out to take a breather, can you). A major direction of thought in the article is to oppose the force to such obnoxious effluvia and the force in this case is the right mental attitude: think positive, think zen, think compassionate thoughts, it can help.

"And no doubt about it: The mind does play an important role -- and in ways beyond our primitive reaction to odors.

"When we are stressed, we can overreact to smell, fueling our irritability and getting into a negative loop -- 'How dare this person do this to me!' " said Debbie Mandel, author of "Addicted to Stress."...

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December 26, 2008

Perfume Packaging Awards Commentary by CPC {Fragrant Reading} {Fragrance News}


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The CPC Packaging magazine have two features on perfume and beauty packaging explaining why these stood out from the hundreds of new launches in 2008. They look for innovation, however discreet, and technical challenges overcome by the design team rather than pure aesthetic beauty (cf. for example the 3121 packaging for Prince's scent).

Here's their commentary on the 2008 Fifi Awards for perfume packaging,

"Great minds think alike" is a saying that often rings true when it comes to fragrance package design. Looking at the past year's fragrance launches, it seems that some marketers were inspired by the same trends. However, each trend was interpreted uniquely for each fragrance bottle."...

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December 24, 2008

Objets du Parfum (2008) {Fragrant Reading - New Book} {Fragrance News}

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A new book dedicated to perfume objects called Objets du Parfum: confidences d'un collectionneur has been newly available since the end of November 2008 for those interested in the history of perfumery and the applied artistic manifestations it encourages.

The collector alluded to in the title is Jean François Costa a member of the families that make up the Fragonard perfumery and an avid collector as well as fragrance industrialist...

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December 8, 2008

Parfums Edition 2009 by Susanne Opalka & Uschi Rollar {Fragrant Reading - New Book}

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The yearly edition of German perfume guide Parfums Edition by publishing house Ebner Verlag has launched its 2009 edition.

This year, the guide is co-authored by Susanne Opalka teaming up with regular contributor Uschi Rollar...

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December 1, 2008

Fragrances of the World 2009 Silver Anniversary Edition {Fragrance News} {Fragrant Reading}

Fragrances-World-2009-Book.jpg

Like each year since 1984, author and arguably pillar of the fragrance industry Michael Edwards publishes a new augmented edition of Fragrances of the World, a compendium of the fragrances that are available in the international market in designer but also niche categories (since 1998) while also listing new flankers and limited-editions. Its comprehensive and cumulative character has earned it the nickname of the "Retail Bible" (of the perfume industry).

For the 25th anniversary of Fragrances of the World, Michael Edwards is marking the jubilee with a special edition titled the Silver Anniversary Edition. According to the press release,

"Fragrances of the World 2009 classifies over 6,500 fragrances and adds more than 800 new releases."...

Water-Page-Fragrances-World.jpg

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Fragrant Readings Archive

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Latest Comments

Fin O'Suilleabhain on Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes} : Hi ... can I ask about the Stravinsky / Chanel image. Is ...

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Regina on Happy New Year 2012! : Valentine's Day will soon be here. Any recommendations?

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Alan on A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading} : Hell-scent candle, lol.

Gina on Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes} : I want to try Sama Oudh Jasmin but checked the websites. I ...

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Toñi on Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume} : Where can I get Dance with Givenchy? It's impossible to find it ...

evageli karounzou on Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News} : at 2007 i was in paris an i bought this perfume.Since then ...

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Perfumes Secret Garden (2011): Featuring Real Civet & Castoreum {New Fragrance} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene for your lovely review! You are great ...

Kay on Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam : This is very interesting. First thing that came to my mind when ...

Maddy on Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa} : Interesting post. I've lived in Ghana but I don't remember encountering anyone ...

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