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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Michael Edwards Fragrances of the World 2011 {Fragrant News & Reading}

 

Fragrances-World-2011-A.jpgLike each year, fragrance industry expert Michael Edwards will release the latest edition of Fragrances of the World also nicknamed "The Fragrance Bible" in January of 2011.

Continuing to expand the references found in the guidebook, 850 new perfumes have been indexed in the 27th annual edition. The illustrations of the book have been entrusted this year to Givaudan,

"stunning images of scent notes courtesy of Givaudan, one of the great creative houses. "The photographs take us, visually speaking, to the core of raw materials,” explains Hugh Wilson, Givaudan’s Head of Marketing Fine Fragrance - Europe." ....

 

Portrait Michael Edwards-A.jpgMichael Edwards said,

“It is the only reference to track the increasingly important niche segment with more than 900 fragrances from 60 niche houses classified in the 2011 edition,” “This brings the total to more than 7,500 fragrances classified going back as far as 1985.

 

Looking back at 2009 and 2010 Edwards analyzed trends by fragrance families and found out that feminine fragrances still remain majoritarily floral with 43% of the launches taking place in this category. The two next most popular groups are florientals with 14% and woody orientals with 10%. The least popular category is aromatic which does not even amount to 1%. Green, watery and dry woody scents are only on the map thanks to a mini 1% share. Surprisingly in light of the commercial vogue of fruity-florals, fruity perfumes are shown to take only 3% of the pie, but this looks more like a classification choice than a reflection of reality as the fruity-florals seem to be incorporated into the more dominant floral group.

 

“Headspace technology has given perfumers an avalanche of exciting new floral notes: it allows them to identify and clone the scent of blooms from which no oil can be extracted by traditional methods,” said Michael. “As a result, each year unusual new notes are found, revitalising the traditional floral theme.”

 

Masculine fragrances continue to be predominantly woody skewing our perception of woods as being the chaps' purview. Aromatic scents which are so marginal in feminine launches are the second most appealing category for the masculine fragrance field. Woody orientals are the third most popular group. Green colognes, like for women's scents, are very rare at 1%. Fruity and floral compositions do not hold industrial sway at all although some designers, precisely for these reasons, like to use these notes to propose a slight transgressive effect in some popular men's perfumes.

 

Special offer available : Order online before 15 December 2010 and receive 10% discount off the RRP of AU $195, NZ $250, US $195, £118 or €140.

Via press release

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