Tsi-La Organics have put out a collection of 4 fragrances comprising Kesu, Ilang Ilang, Kizes and Fleur Sauvage in a set including 4 ml flacons. After having tested several of their offerings we can say that the scents are consistently very rich, narcotic, and on top of that very relaxing!.....
John Varvatos by John Varvatos was launched in 2003-2004 and created by perfumer Rodrigo Flores-Roux (Clinique Happy, Donna Karan Black Cashmere, Hilary Duff With Love, Bagdley Mishka Fleurs de Nuit....). This was the debut fragrance by the men's fashion brand and was followed in 2006 by John Varvatos Vintage by the same nose. John Varvatos is described as a woody oriental and reportedly includes notes that, at the time, had never been used in a man's scent such as Tamarind tree leaves, medjool dates, eaglewood "including Auramber, a secret potion exclusive to Quest". The scent is remarkable for the restrained intensity it offers, its palpable masculine character, and the showcasing of dark, resinous, and peaty notes reminiscent of Islay whiskeys. Its character remains classic, even traditionalist, with a hint of seductive wildness and an erotic appeal.........
While doing research on a different perfume, I happened on an advert for Tonka by Esteban in their collection focusing on Matières (Raw Materials), which is a rather rare occurrence in the world of niche perfume brands. Last year Serge Lutens released a stylish poster for Rousse but it is still unusual to lay eyes on a niche fragrance advert. The reason for this extra publicity effort is that, as I learned, Tonka won the "Oscar" for best unisex perfume of 2007 by Cosmétique Magazine, a leading cosmetics trade magazine in France. The composition is signed by perfumer Fabrice Pellegrin.
Coincidentally, just before realizing it had been distinguished by a prize, I had bought the scent at long last, based on my memory of it.
It was fairly easy to conjure up its exceptionally smooth texture, round body, and luminous, comforting personality. With the lights starting to twinkle on early Christmas trees and bedecked main streets, these fireflies reminded me of the gentle glow of the perfume and created a craving for the intoxicating scent of tonka bean which is, to put it simply, like a more vegetal, almost watery vanilla for some of its facets, yet also smoky, leathery and savory with hints of coconut and hay. I remembered that the Esteban rendition was probably one of the least perfume-y ones and offered a nice one-note aspect......
Each year Dawn Spencer Hurwitz releases a special limited edition fragrance for the Holidays with a more definite festive and Christmas-y flavor. This year the theme of inspiration is derived from exotic dark fruits and spices incorporated into an unusual, both spicy and gentle brew called Tamarind Paprika in her upscale collection titled Parfums des Beaux-Arts.
Spencer Hurwitz is an independent artisan perfumer based in Boulder, Colorado whose creations are noteworthy for their consistently high quality and variety of sources of inspiration ranging from "études" on a perfume material to the olfactory renditions of colors and even historical reconstitutions. Her most recent endeavor, about which we would like to talk more at a later date titled "The Perfumed Court", after the nickname given to the court of Louis XV, is a recreation of 18th century perfumes based on the biography of perfumer Jean-Paul Fargeon and his royal patron queen Marie-Antoinette written by Elisabeth de Feydeau, A Scented Palace and which we reviewed last year.........
Balmain by Balmain was launched in 1998 fifteen years after Ebène and twenty years after Ivoire. It is one of the lesser known Balmain fragrances. Rather than to present itself as being an innovative composition, it is a perfume that recaptures the classic style of French perfumery and its values of elegance and restraint promoted and exemplified in great part by French haute couture designers such as Pierre Balmain and reflected in both their sartorial and perfume creations. Everything about Balmain perfume is stylized, even its discreet carnal innuendos.......
The Body Shop introduced this fall a novel masculine version of its bestseller White Musk initially launched more than a quarter of a century ago in 1981. It is called White Musk for Men. The composition is signed by perfumer Evelyne Boulanger who also did L'Artisan Patchouli Patch, Zagorsk, Jaisalmer in the Comme des Garçons Incense Series as well as Carnation in the Red Series, amongst others.
The fragrance was designed to smell more virile thanks to the addition of pronounced dry woody notes conjuring up the evocation of fast and hard driving in a scorched desert atmosphere.....
The perfumes issued by Jovoy the newly re-established house founded by Blanche Arvoy in 1923 and now revived by François Henin, Henri de Pierrefeu, and Marie-Laure de Rodellec (see also post on the "patrimony movement" in French perfumery) pose the interesting question, to us, of the significance of the name and concept behind a perfume in their influence over the composition of the fragrance and the communication of its personality to the wearer. If a perfume is art, then it is about the attempt to establish a bridge of communication between two imaginations, two universes, those of the creator(s) and the wearer(s). Perfumes named with non-particular names, but rather with names denoting the whole group or family of perfumes might well be in danger of blunting precise images, precise sensations. It is very difficult to assess how much a name influences our perception of a perfume without doing psychological tests about olfactory creation and perception and expectations. Perfumes might very well be inevitably linked to stories and names as the other halves of themselves, which includes the shape of the bottle, another story told with different materials........
In Black by Spanish fashion designer Jesus Del Pozo was created in 2005 by perfumer Christine Nagel. Swiss-born Nagel is the recent recipient of a prestigious creative perfumery award. The jus, somewhat betraying a mercantile inclination with its pleasing-to-everyone-and-all fragrance family facets, is described as an oriental fruity-floral and woody fragrance.
In Black smells very black. It starts with a burst of black cherry juice mingled with fruity citrus-y notes (grapefruit), green nuances, and spicy undertones. After a while the blend smells like root beer........
Azzaro pour Homme by Loris Azzaro today is still after its launch in 1978 one of the best-selling men's fragrances in the world and last year in 2006 was still the third best-selling cologne for Father's Day in France. If one of its creators', perfumer Wirtz's ambition was to bring it a step further than Paco Rabanne pour Homme which pioneered the category of the aromatic fougère redolent of Mediterranean herbs and aromas typically found in the scrubland, he seems to have succeeded in his endeavor......
The most recent advert for Azzaro pour Homme as found on the Azzaro website
A 1984 ad, "Paco Rabanne pour Homme -- it is up to you to make it unforgettable"
Paco Rabanne pour Homme by Paco Rabanne is a distinctive masculine fragrance in a world where men's colognes are more often than not accused of feeling as dull as dishwater as if their sole raison d'être was to attempt to mirror the ideals of the conservative man's dress code. Like a tie that ought to blend in seamlessly with a grey suit rather than become a clashing focal point of social attention and judgment, the average mainstream cologne is business-like and strives to self-efface professionally. Some men will protest and exhibit an accepted sign of eccentricity such as, say, the polka dotted bow-tie or the cartoon-covered tie - riskier this one - but the gesture rarely extends to their equivalents in perfumes.
Fortunately, Paco Rabanne pour Homme sends a subtler message than the desperate reaches for color that men in grey or black sometimes dare experiment. It offers more depth, character, and presence than your average non-intrusive cologne, without imposing too much on the senses. In other words, it is distinctive, but not showy or angling for flamboyance. In 1975 its particular charm did not pass unnoticed and it managed to win two FIFI awards for "Most Exciting Men's Fragrance" and for "Most Appealing Men's Fragrance Package", this one designed by Pierre Dinand .....
A 1973 advert "After Calandre the perfume of the era, Paco Rabanne launches its men's line"
With its pot-pourri name, evocative of houses warmed up by the inner glow of fall and winter, Orange Spice by Creed ends up evoking warm interiors, yes, but in particular that of an 18th century tavern filled with the smoke of civet-scented tobacco stuffed in clay pipes in a room made sultry from the steam of spicy tea cups and mugs of cooked wine. The scents that linger in the air are a powerfully animalic civet, the sunny bites of oranges, wisps of medicinal clove, the sweet smoldering note of cinnamon, and the leathery suggestion of Tonka bean with its subtle powdery almond facet..........
Can Can by Paris Hilton seems to be the epitome of the commercial fragrance in 2007, with a capital letter C, and even two as you can see on the packaging.
To come into existence the scent seemingly had no choice but to pillage left and right.
Both modern chypres and rose perfumes are very au courant this season and the new Gucci Eau de Parfum harnesses these two trends in a subtle and elegant manner.
Frida Giannini, the new artistic director at Gucci wanted to create a fragrance meant for a strong and feminine woman. The idea of feminine strength is revealed here by perfumer Ilia Ermenidis in a very restrained fashion creating an impression comparable to the effect that gliding water can have on the hardest of rocks overtime. Like that fluid force, Gucci Eau de Parfum is easy to wear and one wants to drink from it as easily as from a glass of water........
Ilaya by Isabel Derroisné, 49 € or US $ 70 (now 29 € or US $ 41.45)
Ilaya is the latest perfume by Isabel Derroisné. It is presented as an incense and coffee perfume offering, "sensual ancestral notes" such as myrrh, frankincense, benzoin and "contemporary notes" such as a moka coffee accord. The scent is said to offer a velvety oriental texture (from our previous post).
The perfume was composed by perfumer Jérôme Epinette of Robertet who has also created recently Fougère and Poudré by Jovoy.
Ilaya seems to be a perfect fit for the colors of fall and the quest for hushed-down warmth and sensuality. Past the opening, which feels more like a light hors-d'oeuvre than a real glimpse of things to come with its citrusy, aromatic, yet somewhat crunchy-green notes too of bergamot, ginger, and cardamom, Ilaya offers the feel of a soft amber-y oriental next. It develops along the way a certain reverberative character, lift, and resonant aspect that one associates usually with chypre fragrances. The oriental character of the fragrance is thus a bit dual and more aerial than usual.....
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