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The Scented Salamander Blog A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly. "Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark" Latest Fragrance Reviews Dior Escale à Parati Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue Ferragamo Signorina Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés Jo Malone Plum Blossom Madonna Truth or Dare Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum
Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y. Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie Fragrance Essays Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes? Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes? Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s
Reviews of New Perfumes Diptyque Eau Rose Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Sisley Eau d'Ikar Mary Greenwell Plum Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Estée Lauder Wood Mystique Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Bottega Veneta EDP From the Archives Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.
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 The Beckhams are launching a duo of fragrances in the wake of the success of Instinct by Beckham. "The Intimately Beckham for Him juice, concocted by International Flavors and Fragrances features notes of bergamot, grapefruit zest, cardamom, violet, nutmeg, star anise, sandalwood, patchouli and amber. The women's scent, blended by Firmenich, offers notes of white flowers, bergamot, rose petals, Casablanca lily, tuberose, orange blossom, vanilla, sandalwood and musk." They are scheduled to launch this week in the UK and worldwide, except in the US, in September 2006. The perfumes will retail for $37, $49, and $62 in the 30, 50, and 75 ml sizes. Source: Women's Wear Daily
 "Horowitz-Thran’s desire to celebrate the phenomena of inner-beauty has given rise to the latest of Creative Scentualization’s fragrances, the “Comes From Within” Trio.
Recently launched in Barneys, Light, Peace and Love each express an inner-beauty quality of the wearer, and are individually formulated to evolve differently on everyone. Based on the powerful connection between the heart, mind and soul, the overall result of this trio is a powerful yet free spirited blend that can be unique as its wearer." You can find more information about these fragrances on the Creative Scentualization website. Source: Press release.
 When one looks for a musk scent, and more than with any other scents, one hopes to find that sexy musk that will prove to be the perfect marriage of seduction and intimacy. When one searches high and low for a lovely powdery scent (like I used to), one hopes to find a scent evocative of something rare and precious, a concoction that will transport one through the sense of smell to a refined ancient boudoir, a lady's powder room in the 18th century. Both Musk and powder share this in common that they can powerfully call to imagination the skin of the perfume wearer through a series of olfactory, historical, and cultural associations. The latest offering by Les Néréides, Musc Samarkand, is a powdery musk scent that would have been even more evocative in my opinion had it seized upon an imagery such as that of "Madame de Pompadour à sa toilette" painted by François Boucher. I must say also that I have been several times to Samarkand and I have trouble connecting the perfume to that city. We need more spices to succeed in doing that. Of course, the word "Samarkand" is mainly used here as an Orientalist motif and probably in reference to the vegetal musk found there called "sumbul" which I believe is the same thing as or related to spikenard. On the other hand, had it been called Musc à la Pompadour or Boudoir et Musc, I would have accepted those hints without any hesitation...
Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Musc Samarkand by Les Néréides" »
 Hanae Mori has announced that it will launch its first fragrance in eight years, Magical Moon, in August-September 2006. Their last perfume, Haute Couture, was introduced in 1998. Notes are described as including, "buds and blooms harvested according to an ancient lunar calendar": Osmanthus Flower, Rose, Sugar Cane, Cotton Flower, Coconut Milk, Vanilla, White Musk, White Sandalwood, Red Cedar, Incense, Litchi, Patchouli, Pineapple Pulp, Guava Nectar, Star Fruit, Orange Flowers and Pink Berries. According to Basenotes, it will be available exclusively at Nordstrom in September and will be distributed more widely in November. According to Women's Wear Daily, it will retail for $95 for a flacon of 1.7 oz and would have been launched August 1 in specialty stores. Update: It is now available at Norsdtrom for $95 and $65. Sources: Women's Wear Daily and Basenotes where you can read more about the new fragrance including an anecdote about who was the first woman to receive the fragrance as a much publicized gift.
 L'Artisan Parfumeur will be introducing this fall the second perfume belonging to its collection of luxurious vintage (millésime) fragrances. This time it is an homage paid to narcissus. The scent is called Fleur de Narcisse. Just like a "grand cru" or exceptional wine, these rare vintage perfumes are based on a single harvest of flowers of exceptional quality, in this case narcissus poeticus from Languedoc-Roussillon...
Continue reading "Fragrance News: Fleur de Narcisse 2006 by L'Artisan Parfumeur (Updated)" »
Isabella Rossellini will launch a new perfume in September 2006 called Storia. The name of the scent wants to affirm a principle of individuality for the modern woman based on the idea that "The most beautiful story is your own story." Top notes are mandarine and tagetes; heart notes are quince and white pepper; base notes are musk, vanilla, and patchouli. The bottle is designed to represent the elegant line of a scoop neck. Source: Cosmoty.de
"US. Coty Prestige has formally unveiled its new women’s fragrance from Jennifer Lopez. Live Luxe will be launched in the Americas this month, before rolling out to Europe in September and Asia in October.(...) The juice opens on notes of pear and peach, leading to an exotic heart of amethyst freesia and muguet petals. The base is a blend of diamond musk and soft amber." It was created by Claudette Belnavis of Takasago. The bottle was designed by Guy Williams.
Jennifer Lopez has been so successful with her initial perfume launch of Glow by J.Lo that she has single-handedly inspired a major celebrity perfume trend; Coty is re-centering their whole business around this idea. In December 2006, J. Lo will introduce another perfume, her 7th perfume launch including spin-off limited editions: Glow at Dark...
Continue reading "New Perfume: Live Luxe by Jennifer Lopez" »
Dana has released a new perfume for the Brazilian market called Tabu Flores. Tabu is apparently very popular in Brazil. The new scent is described as a floral oriental. Notes include white flowers, sandalwood, patchouli, musk, and vanilla. Source: Dana Perfumes in Brazil
 How a niche perfume was created and the story of its downfall and renaissance -- Peggy Dean decided one day to create a fragrance and along the way wrote a book describing her experience including the many road-blocks encountered on her path. Sarbez in eau de parfum and parfum was launched last spring. It is described as a "...a creation of bergamot, lavender and nuances of tropical modern twists. The body of the fragrance consists of rich notes of ylang-ylang and jasmine with hints of fresh floral rose. The lasting scent is a resinous accord of sweet vanilla and Tonka beans surrounded by precious woods of patchouli..."
Continue reading "New Perfume & Fragrant Reading: Sarbez by Sarbez & SARBEZ The Renaissance of a Fragrance" »
Lights of Champs Elysées by Guerlain is meant to evoke an olfactory promenade on "the most beautiful avenue of the world." It is in principle exclusively distributed through travel retail. The scent is described as a woody gourmand with notes of almond tree blossom, Virginian cedar, and vanilla. Source: Osmoz
The much awaited Black Orchid by Tom Ford that will come out this fall has been unveiled for WWD. It is an opportunity for Ford to express some of his ideas about the contemporary fragrance scene. As he states,"For the last decade, I think we've launched fragrances which, like everything, have become so stripped-down, so transparent in terms of color and often in terms of scent. They often become quite watered-down…everything is tested and retested, and while you might end up with a lot of fragrances which smell good, it's not fragrance development in the old-fashioned sense. I really wanted to create old-fashioned, but in a new sense."...
Continue reading "New Perfume & Fragrance News: Black Orchid by Tom Ford & A New Line of Unisex Fragrances" »
Following the success of the launch in April of their retro-looking Splash line bottled in 10 oz flacons, Rain, Grass, and Cotton, Marc Jacobs is going to release a new trio of fragrances this fall that will include Ivy, Violet, and Amber. As stated by Marc Jacobs at the time of the introduction of the first Splash line, "I always liked the concept of a fragrance someone could wear without it being too precious. I was trying to move away from the concept that fragrance is only meant to sit on a shelf and be dotted on the wrist, sparingly, for special occasions. Everything about Splash is meant to be more casual or lighthearted: the scents, the colors, the big bottle with its oversize proportions. All three scents are things that always smell good to me. They aren't ‘occasion' scents — they are meant to invite you to use as much as possible, whenever you like." ...
Continue reading "New Perfumes: Ivy, Violet, & Amber by Marc Jacobs" »
 Teen Star Hilary Duff is launching her first fragrance called With Love. It targets women aged from 15 to 24 although Duff thinks it will appeal to a broader audience due to the sophistication of the scent. The star closely monitored the creation of the fragrance saying it took 115 different versions to perfect it. The juice was created by Quest perfumers Stephen Nilsen and Rodrigo Flores-Roux. "In terms of ingredients, effervescent mangosteen and Champagne represent the “fun and bubbly” side of Duff’s personality, while her “complex, sensual side” is highlighted by an accord of textured cocobolo woods." Updated: there is now a website showcasing With Love, please see my latest post about Duff's perfume.
Sources: The Moodie Report, Women's Wear Daily
 Dutch designers Viktor Horting & Rolf Snoeren are launching their first men's fragrance called Antidote following the success of the release of Flowerbomb in 2005. They see the new perfume as being an olfactory extension of their menswear line. The juice was created by Alienor Massenet and Pierre Wargnye of IFF. The flacon was designed by Fabien Baron.
The scent is described as a woody oriental; it "(...) has opening notes of mint leaves, Italian bergamot, mandarin orange, essence of grapefruit and essence of Guatemalan cardamon. At the heart is sambac jasmine absolute. The primary base notes are amber, guaiacum wood, sandalwood, cedar, moss and musk." Two sizes will be available, $65 for 1.7 oz. and $90 for 4.2 oz. Antidote EdP will launch in September at Saks Fifth Avenue and Nordstrom. A 3.4-oz. aftershave balm for $45 and a 4.2-oz. aftershave spray for $55 will also be released in October. It will roll out worldwide in spring 2007. Source: Cosmetic News
YSL will release a new men's fragrance called L'Homme in September 2006. The perfume was created by noses Anne Flipo, Pierre Wargnye and Dominique Ropion. "It features fresh top notes of lemon cedrat and bergamot, blended with ginger of China. The heart is a mix of florals and spice, courtesy of violet leaves, basil flowers and white pepper. The dry-down combines Haitian vetiver, cedar wood and Tonka bean." The bottle's design was inspired by Bauhaus architecture. The face of the fragrance will be sexy French actor Olivier Martinez (I'm always glad to post his picture.) Source: The Moodie Report
 
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