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January 23, 2009

Hermes Hermessence Vanille Galante (2009) {Perfume Review & Musings} - Part 1

Vanille Galante: Reflections, Musings & Notes on Context

Vanille Galante is the latest addition to the Hermessence collection by the house of Hermès, a more selectively distributed collection of "niche" perfumes composed with the olfactory connoisseur in mind; it is purchasable only in the venues of the Hermès boutiques. Hermessence, a collection of "olfactive poems" was inaugurated in 2004, the very year perfumer-composer Jean-Claude Ellena became the house's exclusive in-house perfumer. The series started with an initial quatuor of scents: Rose Ikebana, Ambre Narguilé, Vétiver Tonka and Poivre Samarcande. All four were united by a common tactile thematic exploring sensations associated with four different textiles.These compositions were followed later on by Osmanthe Yunnan (2005), Paprika Brasil (2006), Un Brin de Réglisse (2007) and now the soon-to-be-introduced in February of 2009, Vanille Galante.

To better understand the spirit that presides over this particular body of works, it might be useful to quote what the house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena had to say in 2007,

À chaque fois, j'essaie de raconter une histoire courte autour d'une matière que je transforme et d'un voyage. »

Each time, I try to tell a brief story revolving around a raw material that I transform and a journey...

Continue reading "Hermes Hermessence Vanille Galante (2009) {Perfume Review & Musings} - Part 1" »

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January 17, 2009

Major News from Balenciaga: The Classics Will Be Re-Edited! {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}

After announcing the return of fashion house Balenciaga as a perfume house last fall, it still remained unclear what form the venture would take.

Would Balenciaga simply be used for new creations more adapted to the contemporary market and the new image of the house under Nicolas Ghesquière? Would the brand think it desirable to recreate their prestigious fragrances of the past and decide to delve into their archives?...

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Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme (2009): The Nocturnal Side of l'Homme {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

As previously announced, Yves Saint Laurent will launch a new masculine perfume on March 2, 2009 fronted by French actor Vincent Cassel. In an interview the thespian gave the Votre Beauté magazine of February 2009, we learn that the new jus is called La Nuit de l'Homme (lit.The Night of the Man), a new installment in the L'Homme franchise the latter still being fronted by actor Olivier Martinez....

Continue reading "Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme (2009): The Nocturnal Side of l'Homme {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}" »

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January 16, 2009

Parfums Delrae Emotionnelle (2009) {New Perfume}

Parfums DelRae will launch a new perfume inspired by Paris called Emotionnelle (Emotional). The brand founder wanted to refer to the emotions she felt while in the city of lights and perfumes and asked perfumer Michel Roudnitska to transcribe those feelings for her into a fragrance...

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January 15, 2009

Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal (2009) Part 2: A Beautiful Homage to Female Fire-Raiser Germaine Cellier & More News About a 4th Perfume {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}

Some further news to follow up on a previous announcement about the 3 upcoming MDCI fragrances in 2009: in fact I learned that a 4th fragrance will be launched this year as I had to realize after getting four of these upcoming releases.

Only the name of the perfume Péché Cardinal (Cardinal Sin) is definitive. All three others have received for now temporary, evocative names but which are not made official yet and may change.

1st teaser and advance perfume review:

Péché Cardinal is a beautiful fruity leather perfume with an indolic punch worthy of a boxer. It has a very bold signature that will ravish lovers of vintage perfumes who bemoan the near-extinction of fragrances with an attitude, the ones that know how to smack a man in the face to make them behave. Imagine a sleek dame in a 40s film noir graced with a hot temperament and a lot of sass. She wears leather pants or underwear under her immaculately tailored tweed suit and she wears them well...

Continue reading "Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal (2009) Part 2: A Beautiful Homage to Female Fire-Raiser Germaine Cellier & More News About a 4th Perfume {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}" »

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Sisley Eau de Sisley 1, 2, 3 (2009): 1, 2, 3 Dresses {New Fragrances}

Sisley, in an apparent departure from their slow-life-applied-to-fragrance philosophy (my own interpretation) with so far a portfolio of three fragrances that were created over several decades will now launch three perfumes at the same time in the spring of 2009. Following Eau de Campagne (1974), Eau du Soir (1990) and Soir de Lune (2006), Sisley goes back to the "eau" theme by proposing three new eaux de toilette inspired by three different "twirling summer dresses" as well as quite unabashedly put, the radiance of smiles of happiness. But this time there is a twist, one that seems to want to bridge the gap between the two main fragrance genres found in the Sisley library of scents: the eau fraîche (Eau de Campagne was incidentally created by perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena who loves these tonalities; Eau de Campagne is sometimes classified as a chypre, but I would personally need to re-smell it to gauge that) and the chypre. The perfumes are said to "...combine the freshness of water and the mysterious seductiveness of chypre, a true challenge for a perfumer." (cf. Dior Eau Fraîche; Diorella) To me, this approach is therefore in keeping with the gradualist method of the Sisley brand who despite the apparent acceleration of perfume launches this spring only 2-3 years after Soir de Lune are reiterating their personal commitment to deepening their olfactory signature rather than, say, offering the gourmand fruity-floral du jour.

The scents in the Eaux-de-Sisley trio are simply called Eau de Sisley 1, Eau de Sisley 2 and Eau de Sisley 3 as the brand wanted to leave room for perfume-wearers to imagine the perfumes. "Each fragrance is simply numbered, so as to offer everyone the pleasure of naming it."...

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January 14, 2009

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage (2009): More Information {New Perfume}

Further news and pictures have now become available regarding the upcoming Un Matin d'Orage by Annick Goutal (A Morning After The Thunderstorm) to be launched in February 2009. As we wrote earlier on, the new composition by Isabelle Doyen and Camille Goutal centers on the evocation of the scents of a luxuriant Japanese garden after a shower.

We now learn that Un Matin d'Orage recreates the perception of a gardenia chiaroscuro whose play with light and shadow takes place in a vaporous atmosphere,

"Everything is peaceful. In these intangible veils, the bamboos further refine the lines of their shoots, the cherry trees stretch out their branches.

Near the patches of oakmoss, a penetrating scent lingers on in the air. The gardenia reigns majestically in the play of light with shadows. Delicate drops form on the buds; the white flowers sheltered by the emerald-green foliage catch the light on their rounded milky petals. A breeze carries away with it the scent of gardenia enshrouding the garden with its delicate sensuality (our translation)."...

Continue reading "Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage (2009): More Information {New Perfume}" »

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Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (2009): In Need of a Little Fashion Touch Up? {New Perfume}

The house of Guerlain now owned by LVMH corporation is turning its eyes or rather nostrils to the world of fashion with the launch of a new composition evoking an iconic element of the 20th and now 21st century feminine wardrobe, the little black dress. Guerlain will introduce this new perfume called by the evocative name La Petite Robe Noire (The Little Black Dress) in February of 2009.

But precisely, Guerlain was never a fashion house in the midst of a 20th century where the pull of fashion was felt in a major...fashion in the realm of fine fragrances. Chanel No. 5 is the epitome of this by-now-classic association. Therefore it is no coincidence that the little black dress sounds a bit like an idea highjacked from the house of Chanel, that perhaps the latter ought to have come up with themselves, except perhaps that they didn't feel compelled to layer it that thick or obviously. The fact is that Chanel themselves never issued a perfume called after this most Chanel of brainchilds and one can wonder what they will think of this semiotic kidnapping. If on the one hand the little black dress has become public property, rehashed in thousands of guises, on the other hand it still refers to the Chanel universe and they also make perfumes...

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January 8, 2009

Freshen Up With Lancome Magnifique Eau de Toilette (2009) {New Perfume}

Lancôme has introduced a new fresh twist on Magnifique, originally released as an Eau de Parfum in September of 2008. The flanker arrives to stave off the summer heat of 2009, or to be worn more casually during the day or at work. As is usual, a slight reformulation will ensue and here it seems that the composition was made to feel somewhat simpler and more linear while offering more of a thirst-quenching quality...

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Christian Lacroix Absynthe by Avon (2009): The Green Faerie Is Back {New Perfume}

French couturier Christian Lacroix is pursuing his partnership with mass-market giant Avon with the launch of a third fragrance in March 2009 called Absynthe following Rouge and Noir.

Inspired by the mythical drink of poets and bohemian artists living in 19th century Paris, it comes in the midst of a renewal of interest for the jade-colored drink as it is now legally available again. In particular, the US is now allowing its commercial distillation since December 2007...

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New Perfumes Archive

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Latest Posts from Beauty And The Salamander

January 23, 2009

Hermes Hermessence Vanille Galante (2009) {Perfume Review & Musings} - Part 1

January 17, 2009

Major News from Balenciaga: The Classics Will Be Re-Edited! {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme (2009): The Nocturnal Side of l'Homme {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

January 16, 2009

Parfums Delrae Emotionnelle (2009) {New Perfume}

January 15, 2009

Parfums MDCI Peche Cardinal (2009) Part 2: A Beautiful Homage to Female Fire-Raiser Germaine Cellier & More News About a 4th Perfume {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}

Sisley Eau de Sisley 1, 2, 3 (2009): 1, 2, 3 Dresses {New Fragrances}

January 14, 2009

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage (2009): More Information {New Perfume}

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire (2009): In Need of a Little Fashion Touch Up? {New Perfume}

January 8, 2009

Freshen Up With Lancome Magnifique Eau de Toilette (2009) {New Perfume}

Christian Lacroix Absynthe by Avon (2009): The Green Faerie Is Back {New Perfume}

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