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 Avon have just launched a trio of fragrances which are meant to help cool you down this summer. " Introducing Ice Sheers fresh fragrance collection! Treat yourself to a burst of freshness!" The trio comprises Ice Sheers Luscious, Refreshing and Delicious...
Continue reading "Avon Ice Sheers Luscious, Refreshing, Delicious (2010) {New Fragrances}" »
 As I pick up the new Tuca Tuca by Lush and Gorilla Perfumes, I suddenly realize that this is the origin for
the scent of violet leaves which I have been catching on from time to
time in the past two days because I had left the perfume on a
side-table. Tuca Tuca by Gorilla Perfumes is not about coconut and
banana but about violet, I am reminded. It was inspired by a catchy Italian song and dance overheard by the perfumers while traveling in Venice. "The scent of a bright pop song. Tuca Tuca is whimsical; it teases with
a fantasy violet accord and works its way into your subconscious. As it
settles, you get hints of jasmine and vanilla, too."
Notes: The fragrance's 3-tiered structure is reportedly seen as illustrating the three
periods of the day: morning, noon and evening. In the morning: a blast of fresh summer air, violet; at midday: warm vanilla and ylang ylang; sundown: "a slightly naughty violet leaf and vetivert bottom."
The perfume, a violet leather, opens on a
heavy, deeply ambery and leathery impression with some grape-y violet
adding a dark, almost black violet thickness and cast to the scent. Violet
originates from Africa so it might be an inspiration taken from this
notion of a black continent which ties up well also with the Gorilla
theme. On second thought, the leather accord is suggestive of the vision of the thick leathery palm of a gorilla. Like many but not all of the Lush perfumes, it hints at a
nostalgic reminiscence of the 60s-70s hippie headshop turned for better
profitability into the international Lush brand of scents and
toiletries but still betraying their old libertarian roots. How so? The
Lush medley of scents which escapes from their stores and soap mounds
and bath bombs casings somehow do not care about structure and
hierarchy. They whirl around and occasionally jump on you as you walk
by one of their boutiques... 
Gorilla by John Beard, 2007
Continue reading "Lush - Gorilla Perfume Tuca Tuca (2010): Hippie Violet Leather {Fragrance Review} {New Perfume}" »
 This Fall, Guerlain takes inspiration from famous and iconic mystery novel character Arsène Lupin which was created by writer Maurice Leblanc in 1905 to compose two new masculine fragrances meant to reflect the two contrasted Janus sides of the "gentleman cambrioleur" (gentleman burglar.) The new colognes are called Arsène Lupin Dandy and Arsène Lupin Voyou (Lout) and are part of the Les Parisiens collection which already comprises three masculine scents: Derby, L'Ame d'un Héros, Chamade pour Homme... 
Continue reading "Guerlain Arsène Lupin Dandy, Arsène Lupin Voyou (2010) {New Fragrances} {Celebrity Perfume} {Men's Colognes}" »
 Jean Paul Gaultier will follow up on the launch of Classique X this year with a limited-edition Classique X Extrait, the highest concentration in fragrance, which will be out just in time for the Holidays season, on October 15, 2010...
Continue reading "Jean Paul Gaultier Classique X Extrait (2010) {New Perfume}" »
 Narciso Rodriguez will release a new flanker to Essence, called Essence Eau de Parfum Intense. It is a limited-edition. It will be showcased as part of the Musc Collection Fall 2010 which also reprises For Her EDP Intense (2009) which now becomes part of the permanent collection, and For Him which is offered in both a smokier and shinier version of the original opaque glass bottle. Fashion designer Rodriguez took the opportunity to reassert his belief in the unique characteristics of the ingredient musk...
Continue reading "Narciso Rodriguez Essence EDP Intense & Musc Collection Fall 2010 (2010): Perfumery Material Monogamy {New Perfume} {Fragrance News}" »
 Dior will introduce a new variation on Hypnotic Poison from September 2010 called Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle. It was created by perfumer François Demachy who took inspiration from a novel orchid for perfumery lending itself to a reinterpretation of the 1998 original by Annick Menardo which will offer a new vanilla facet. The perfumer said, "Eau Sensuelle lifts the boundaries between the five senses and relies on an interplay between sight, smell and taste ..." -
Continue reading "Dior Hypnotic Poison Eau Sensuelle (2010): New Vanilla Orchid Twist {New Perfume}" »
 TV reality celebrity Kim Kardashian has announced that just a year after her debut perfume Kim Kardashian EDP, she will release a second signature fragrance in February of 2011, name undisclosed so far. She let however her fans take a peek at the photo shoot for the advertising campaign both on her site and on her blog. Completely on top of the Zeitgeist ways, she snapped a Twitpic of herself to update her Tweeter followers on the latest developments of her day....
Continue reading "Kim Kardashian to Launch Second Fragrance in 2011 {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »
  The house of Paquin which was established in 1891 by ex-model and model-maker Jeanne Paquin née Jeanne Beckers and closed its doors in 1956 despite having bought Worth just a few years before, is preparing for its comeback to take place this October 2010. The rich heritage of the house will be tapped into from several different angles at the same time beyond its haute couture flair. What is somewhat unusual is that the brand now based in London will be given new life not just in the field of fashion but in perfumery as well. In fact, the fashion lines of prêt-à-porter are going to be streamlined at first being offered in limited editions of 20, 30, 50 and 100 copies maximum.   The man at the helm of this planned renaissance is artistic director Louison Libertin, whose background is both in fashion design and perfumery. Fragrance-wise, he is a graduate of Cinquième Sens, worked at one time as a junior perfumer assisting nose Olivia Giacobetti and is the founder since 2008 of his own line of perfumes, candles and cosmetics, Technique Indiscrète...
Continue reading "Paquin Ever After, 9 X 9 (2010): The Comeback of Paquin Fashion & Perfumes {New Fragrances} {Fashion Notes}" »
In preamble, I just wanted to say that the review of Bluff is meant to be my 4th of July (weekend) review to commemorate Independence Day. Hope you had a great Independence Day celebration!
 Vétiver Bluff by Lubin is part of the recent release of a quatuor of fragrances in a collection entitled Les Métalliques referring itself to the visual aspect of the flacons, two of which prolong the Eau-Neuve experiment and the two others, the Vetiver-de-Lubin one. The part of the name which is "Bluff" is a tribute to Far West legend, gunman and gambler Wild Bill Hickock whose last hand at the time of his death when he was shot from the back in the head is still known as the "Dead Man's Hand" (2 black aces, 2 black eights and the jack of diamonds.) On the olfactory plane, Bluff reconnects with an antecedent vetiver accord but adds the spin of a new-frontier kola-nut-based drink inspiration, a homage to early American versions of frontier tonic drinks, which are now almost universally known under the labels Pepsi-Cola and Coca-Cola. Lubin stress the origins of the drink, mentioning "...the invigorating remedies supplied to the pioneers in the Wild West during the gold rush. Once developed by emigrant physicians, these tonics were first considered as medicines. They would soon become a part of American culture, and later be transformed into soft drinks for young people."
Before cola drinks were made in America, there was a well-known direct French ancestor called Vin Mariani short for "Vin Tonique Mariani à la coca du Pérou," a so-called "cola wine" which contained 6 to 7 mg of cocaine per bottle. An antique advert for the English-speaking market states "Vin Mariani, popular French tonic wine. Fortifies and refreshes body and brain. Restores health and vitality." It was also dubbed "King of Tonics, Tonic of Kings," as virtually all the royalty and intellectual elite of the time, such as Queen Victoria and Thomas Edison, were drinkers of Vin Mariani. Mariani, a Corsican chemist, was apparently also a marketing genius and set up a huge and what looks like to be the first celebrity media campaign for his invention of a Bordeaux infused with coca leaves.
Bluff is signed by perfumer Thomas Fontaine, who also composed two other scents in Les Métalliques: Inédite and Figaro.
Gilles Thévenin, the president of Lubin Parfums, when I asked him why this interest in American history confesses that as a child he adored the legendary David Crockett. More recently, he became aware of the American heritage of the house of Lubin Est. 1798 by going through the archives of the house. In September 2010, as part of the upcoming Haute Harrods event, the perfume house will lend to the prestigious London department store their earliest known export document dated from 1809, a "travel parchment" which belonged to Ernest August Saffers, the partner of founder Pierre François Lubin and the person in charge of all export operations...
Continue reading "Lubin Vétiver Bluff (2010): My 4th of July Review on the 5th of July: Of Coca-Cola, Sweat and Pioneers which all Contributed to Building the Nation {New Fragrance} {Perfume Review & Musings}" »
  Frau Tonis Parfum is a new perfume house which opened last year in November 2009 in Berlin. It is the result of a trans-generational love for perfume across three generations of women from the same family. For this reason and also because the new fragrance brand has developed privileged links with a local perfume manufacturer called Harry Lehmann: Parfüm Nach Gewicht which started selling perfume by the weight in 1926, there seems to be a weak spot for the style and panache of the 1920s perfumes. Among their current 21 offerings is a perfume directly inspired by a favorite fragrance of actress Marlene Dietrich which used to be manufactured by Lehmann...
Continue reading "Frau Tonis Parfum NO. 37 Veilchen (2009): In Berlin, Marlene Dietrich's Violet Perfume is Back {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume} " »
 Following up on a previous post about an upcoming new Annick Goutal perfume, Rose Splendide, we received further information and realized there are in fact three news-items about roses by Goutal. Rose Splendide is indeed a new composition while Quel Amour! and Rose Absolue, two other rose scents by the house, have been revisited to become lighter "Eaux Parfumées," (Perfumed Waters.) The trio has been assembled in a collection of sorts under the tag line, Rose So Chic....
Continue reading "Annick Goutal Rose So Chic! Collection: New Rose Splendide, Lighter Rose Absolue & Quel Amour! (2010) {New Fragrances}" »
 Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles Eau Parfumée is the
latest addition to the Eau des Merveilles collection which debuted in
2004 with Eau des Merveilles co-signed by perfumers Ralf Schwieger et
Nathalie Feisthauer. Hermès in-house perfumer Jean-Claude Ellena took
over from 2005, first with a collaboration with Ralf Schwieger for a
Parfum des Merveilles, then in 2006 with Elixir des Merveilles under
his sole responsibility. Eau Claire des Merveilles launches in
September 2010. Eau
Claire des Merveilles opens on a fresh citrusy note, then a sweet
cosmetic powdery iris one and a sweet coca-cola musk note as in Musc
Ravageur, but they are all like false lures as soon these are followed
by an intensely oily indolic accord, the one I have smelled recently in Narciso Rodriguez Her Iridescent Fragrance and Gucci Guilty, which seems to be a quasi perfect replica of the way wisteria exhale heavy indoles in the spring and
summer. Like for the original Eau des Merveilles which is a
composition the perfumers wanted to build " back to front" you find in the opening sequences heavier notes than is customary to find in the head notes...
Continue reading "Hermès Eau Claire des Merveilles (2010): Sea Milk and Driftwood {New Perfume} {Fragrance Review}" »
 New-York-City based Bond No.9 is preparing to launch two new scents this coming fall. Washington Square is a feminine perfume and Cooper Square is an " unisex [scent] with masculine tendencies." Both were composed by perfumer Laurent Le Guernec who has collaborated several times already with the brand but without being presented as its resident-perfumer officially although he approaches this status...
Continue reading "Bond no.9 Washington Square, Cooper Square (2010) {New Fragrances}" »
 An old favorite and best-seller is back, for the second time in recent times, Casma. It had been reintroduced in 2001 and discontinued again. It was initially issued during the Roaring Twenties in 1922 by the very historic American perfume and toiletries house of Caswell-Massey Est. 1752, the oldest American perfumery still in existence. They were the purveyors of George Washington's (and Lafayette's) own cologne Number Six, no less. " We are happy to announce that "Casma" is back!
You spoke and we listened. Thanks to many of you who contacted us over
the years regarding this lovely fragrance, we are proud to re-introduce
one of your favorites...
Continue reading "Caswell-Massey Casma (1922 / 2010): Back by Popular Demand {New Perfume}" »
 Mea Culpa -- The Scented Salamander got a slight slap on the wrist for not posting the "correct images" (see the incorrect image here) of the new ad campaign for Marry Me! by Lanvin. It's all for the best since by the same token we got more information about the upcoming launch. The love story behind the scent is told like a scenario highlighting key hours of the day, as well as postcard-like Parisian spots, with a few sartorial suggestions. I am just giving you the timeline and map of this encounter. The tag line is " The perfume of an encounter." At 9 am sharp the coup de foudre takes place on the pont des Arts: it's love at first sight; at 1 pm, lunch at the Café de Flore in Saint Germain des Prés; 4 pm, it's time to take a stroll in the picturesque streets of Montmartre; 6 pm back in the Latin Quarter, they now take a walk around the Jardin du Luxembourg; at 8 pm, they have alighted on the bank of the Seine river in the Île Saint Louis with a bottle of Champagne... 
Continue reading "Marry Me! by Lanvin (2010): More News and the "Correct Images"{New Perfume}" »
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Fin O'Suilleabhain on
Les Exclusifs: Bel Respiro, No 18, & 28 La Pausa by Chanel {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}
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Fragonard Caresse (1929/2008) {Perfume Review}
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Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers}
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Happy New Year 2012!
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Victoria's Secret Life is Pink Wish Pink, Live Pink, Hope Pink (2010) *New Fragrances*
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A Funny Post About Scented Candles {Fragrant Reading}
: Hell-scent candle, lol.
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Two Organic Oud Scents: Sama Oudh Jasmin & Undergreen Black Classic (2011) {New Perfumes}
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Top 12 Best New Department Store Fragrances of 2011 for the Holidays {Perfume List}
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Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
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Dance with Givenchy (2010) {New Perfume}
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Choppy Waters for Stella Cadente Miss Me {Fragrance News}
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Mona di Orio Chamarré (2009): Perfume Review in Memoriam
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Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5: Interview with Nick Evans of International Flavors & Fragrances, Inc. {Perfume Q & A - The Scents of Africa}
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