Monthly Archives from March 2006

April 30, 2007

The Carousel by Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab: A Collection of 7 Fragrances Inspired by Neil Gaiman {New Perfumes}

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Perfumer Beth Schiffrin of Black Phoenix Alchemy Lab has created a series of 7 fragrances called The Carousel to pay homage to author Neil Gaiman. They were inspired by some of the most beloved characters of the novelist found in two of his most popular novels, The Anansi Boys and American Gods......

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Charogne by Etat Libre d'Orange {New Perfume}

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Etat Libre d'Orange have come up with another release. So far it is the most provocatively titled, for me at least, as Charogne (Carrion). Just to read the name and the description makes my stomach turn. They in fact allude to the process of physical decomposition mentioning a skin that is soft, melting, and almost transparent.

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April 29, 2007

Chic-Chic, Clémarine, Magic Ethnic, & Mystica 48 by Les Gens du Sud {New Perfumes}

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The jewelry brand Les Gens du Sud (The People from the South) is now offering a quatuor of scents to expand their brand image. The fragrances are called Chic-Chic, Clémarine, Magic Ethnic, and Mystica 48. In five years the founders Jean-Pierre Paul and Yannick Tartrou have succeeded in establishing their brand in 30 countries. They specialize in jewelry offering a wealth of charms and borrowing the look of recycled vintage baubles, all this with a definite ethnic flair.....

 

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Volo Az 686 & Alba by Pro Fumum Roma {New Fragrances}

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Profumum or Pro Fumum Roma a niche Italian brand of perfumes specializing in scents of outstanding quality has released two new perfumes called Volo Az 686 and Alba. To read more about the history of the brand check our previous post.......

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Coney Island by Bond No 9 {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfume}

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Coney Island is the upcoming new release by Bond no9 which will be available from June 1st with pre-orders ready to be taken on May 15. It is the 29th addition to their collection and like The Hamptons and Fire Island, it is a fragrance with a summery sea resort theme. Coney Island takes the marine motif and brings to it a gourmand and fruity twist together with the showcasing of a savory and boozey accord of Margarita. The latter alludes to the relaxing image of a cocktail sipped on the beach and at the same time is the only perceptible reference to the sense of excess that seemed to inhabit that locale, at least in its heydays.

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There are several Coney Islands and obviously the fragrance wishes to support the idea of the gentrification of the resort rather than allude to the mounds of hot dogs, knishes and the musky mingling of a million bodies, as could be experienced on Sundays from the 1920s onwards when the working class rushed to its shore thanks to the newly constructed subway in an era that came to be known as the Nickel Empire. Artists were so struck by the hard-to-fathom over-population of its beachfront that it became a common theme in paintings of Coney Island.

If at other times, Coney Island served as the backdrop of a crime scene in noir movies where its lack of measure translated into an atmosphere flickering with too many lights, resounding with too many people and their screams hesitating between delight and terror all gorged with street food, an atmosphere condusive to the covering up of a silent shady murder, Coney Island the fragrance is the untainted version of its sinful unruly sides. There is even redemption in the ultimate message of distinction and exquisiteness it distillates.......

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April 27, 2007

Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia by Estée Lauder {New Perfume}

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Aerin Lauder, the grand-daughter of Estée Lauder wants to revive the sense of exclusivity that accompanied the creation of the original Private Collection in the 1970s. It was a scent created for and worn by Estée Lauder and which she at first shared with only a few friends. In keeping with this tradition, the company is going to launch Private Collection Tuberose Gardenia in August of 2007. The jus is based on Estée Lauder's two favorite flowers. The line will be more expensive than usual as the Lauder perfumes are known for their image of affordable luxury. The parfum concentration in the bejeweled flacon will retail for $300.....

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Rouge & Noir by Christian Lacroix {New Perfumes}

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Flamboyant baroque designer Christian Lacroix is preparing to launch two new perfumes called Rouge (Red) and Noir (Black). The first one is for women and the second one for men. The perfumes were created in partnership with Avon as the company wishes to develop their credentials in the fashion world and Christian Lacroix is interested in reaching the mass market and developing its brand image in the broader market......

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Love in Paris Fleur de Pivoine by Nina Ricci {New Perfume}

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Nina Ricci is is releasing a limited edition of Love in Paris called Love in Paris Fleur de Pivoine (Love in Paris Peony Flower). It pays homage to the feathery beauty of the spring flower peony and love in Paris. The jus was worked like a soliflore.......

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Kelly Calèche by Hermès {New Perfume}

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Hermès will launch a new feminine fragrance in July of 2007 called Kelly Calèche in reference both to the Kelly bag (1930) inspired by Grace Kelly and Calèche (1961), one of the house's pillar fragrances. It is their first major feminine launch since 2004 and Eau des Merveilles. The jus was composed by in-house perfumer Jean Claude Ellena.....

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April 26, 2007

Vetiver Extrême by Guerlain {New Perfume}

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Guerlain has released a new, extreme version of its classic fragrance Vetiver created in 1959 by Jean Paul Guerlain. It is called Vetiver Extrême and was designed for ‘a man who lives for adventure yet remains rooted in his classic background.’.....

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Jacomo For Men by Jacomo {New Perfume}

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Jacomo is launching a new men's fragrance targeting men in their thirties. It is called Jacomo for Men and centers on a vetiver note......

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April 24, 2007

Set Sail St. Barts for Women & Set Sail St. Barts for Men by Tommy Bahama {New Perfumes}

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Tommy Bahama has released a limited edition duet of perfumes with a nautical theme for this summer. They are called Set Sail St. Barts for Women and Set Sail St. Barts for Men. These inaugurate a collection of perfumes that will be dedicated each time to an island of the Caribbean.

Set Sail St. Barts for Women has top notes of Tequila sorbet, lime; heart notes are Caribbean floral notes. Base notes are white sand, musk, guaiacwood......

 

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Tom Ford Private Blend: An Overview {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Perfumes}

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Like the laying out of the 12 first steps of an Inca pyramid made of black onyx, we now have been offered the 12 building blocks of the Tom Ford fragrance house. The 12 scents of the new line are called Amber Absolute, Noir de Noir, Velvet Gardenia, Black Violet, Tobacco Vanille, Oud Wood, Purple Patchouli, Bois Rouge, Moss Breches, Tuscan Leather, Neroli Portofino and Japan Noir.

The scents are described as perfumes constructed around a main note folded into secondary notes. In this manner and despite the richness of their textures the perfumes are not particularly complex. They offer dense, heavily textured sensations most of the time, but not necessarily deep and multi-layered in the longer term. The notes themselves have a certain depth  - they are fleshy, often opulent -but the structures of the perfumes are rather straightforward. Often one gets an opening stage as discrete as the blasting of a police siren on an empty Sunday morning street followed by some relinquishing, a renewed, often invasive presence, and then a clean-shaved impression of a drydown.

A line of continuity with Black Orchid is apparent as the concept of a sub-genre of dark tropical juices with slightly nefarious accents endures, meanders into new territories and draws a geographical map of Tom Ford's desires and obsessions. "It's rare that I like a very light floral," he says. "I'm rarely drawn to roses, for example. I'm more a tuberose, gardenia, jasmine, sort of deeper, sort of heady ... heady ... heady...."..........

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April 23, 2007

Shedonism Exotic Floral Essence by Origins {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Perfume}

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Shedonism is the latest perfume by Origins and is inspired by a Tahitian ceremony centering on a Tiare blossom. "On the fabled tropical island of Tahiti, the “society of she” is still celebrated with playful passion. There the women wear a fragrant, snow-white Tiaré blossom that holds a special meaning. According to tradition, when the flower is worn behind the left ear, it says her love is taken. Worn on the opposite ear, it means her heart is fancy free. And when she waves the Tiare behind her head, it signals "Follow me"."If you like tiare and beachy scents, then Shedonism might be a good option. It is not original by any means, but is a good functional summery skin scent that is to be used as a mist.......

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Cerruti Pour Homme by Cerruti {New Perfume}

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The new perfume for men by Cerruti called Cerruti Pour Homme is described as a combination of Italian chic and French seduction in which one can find an alliance of contrasts, the simple freshness of the top notes being followed by the depth of a woody accord in the base notes.......

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