Monthly Archives from March 2006

February 14, 2011

Les Parfums de Rosine Clair Matin (2011) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance}

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Clair Matin means something akin to "a bright and early morn" in French. It is what the upcoming new perfume by Les Parfums de Rosine was baptized and it is now about to be unveiled in New York City this week. It will be one of their four new launches this year. The composition was reportedly inspired by the first rose tree, a dog-rose tree, that brand founder Marie-Hélène Rogeon planted in her rose garden located in her property in Picardie. The new scent is yet another research into the perfumes of roses, the house's trademark olfactory signature.

I find Clair Matin to present interesting nuances, mostly for the rose lover, I am tempted to say, more so than for the perfume lover who might be looking for a stronger statement and state-of-the-art perfumery instead of being wooed by naturalness. For rose lovers always on the lookout for new rose perfumes, be it known that this is a tart, green composition with a certain level of complexity to it despite it being of a lighter concentration, it being an "Eau Fraîche." The scent eschews the most predictable shortcut to a clean, aseptic and transparent rose treatment while managing to be refreshing, crisp and fruity. The blend offers a balanced charm with little touches here and there that connoisseurs will appreciate, and an understated yet definite push in the direction of tangy.

Notes: raspberry leaves absolute, Italian lemon essence, blackcurrant bud / camomile, violet, Turkish rose essence, peony / musk, apricot, sandalwood, amber...

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February 11, 2011

Kim Kardashian Gold (2011) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}

 

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Reality TV pop star Kim Kardashian will release her second fragrance called Gold in April 2011 following up on her debut eponymous scent Kim Kardashian (2010). The tag line is "Transcend ordinary."

"Gold is a luxury that stands the test of time, a universal symbol of sophistication and glamour. Like a stunning piece of jewelry, Gold lends everday style a surge of seductive sparkle and timeless beauty."...

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Oscar de la Renta Esprit d'Oscar (2011) {New Perfume}

 

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Fashion designer Oscar de la Renta, whose latest fragrance introductions were focusing on limited-editions with for example Oscar Soft Amber and Oscar de la Renta Fresh Vanilla in 2008 or Oscar Sheer Freesia in 2009, will go back to his roots with the launch of an apdated version of his 1977 eponymous fragrance Oscar de la Renta in April of 2011...

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February 9, 2011

Atelier Cologne Vanille Insensée (2011) {New Perfume}

 

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vanille-insensee-bottle.jpgContinuing the rich vanilla trend which emerged in 2010 is the new creation by Atelier Cologne called Vanille Insensée (Out-of-this-World or Crazy Vanilla.)

"He wove through the crowd when suddenly his heart quickened. That scent. It was hers. He had worn it first until she stole it for herself. Now, there she was before him and the magic of years past came flooding back in a moment.”...

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Parfumerie Générale Tonkamande, Praliné de Santal (2011) {New Perfumes - Limited Editions}

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Parfumerie Générale will launch a duo of limited-edition fragrances called Tonkamande (Tonka + Amande) and Praliné de Santal, the latter being described as a "semi-gourmand" although both seem to be inspired by gustatory notes. Tonkamande is said to be a composition with main facets of milk and aldehydes...

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Floris Celebrates Prince William & Catherine Middleton Wedding with a Bouquet (2011) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

 

floris-wedding-bouquet.pngFloris Est. 1730 wanted to partake of the upcoming revelry on April 29th 2011 celebrating the marriage of Prince William to Catherine Middleton (you are officially not allowed to use the short form "Kate" anymore.) What better way for them but to do so by putting out a new perfume called Wedding Bouquet.

"Created exclusively to celebrate the marriage of Prince William to Miss Catherine Middleton, Wedding Bouquet draws inspiration from the most acclaimed Floris wedding fragrances of the past whilst introducing a modern twist using a white flower theme."...

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David & Victoria Beckham Signature Summer for Him & Her (2011) {New Fragrances - Limited Editions} {Celebrity Fragrances}

 

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David and Victoria Beckham will launch a new duo of limited-edition fragrances from March 2011 called Signature Summer for Him and Her, expanding the Signature franchise.

"With Signature Summer we wanted to create two summer scents that reflect us as individuals and as a couple," said David Beckham. "The fragrance for men is very modern and masculine and therefore forms a nice contrast to the women's fragrance."....

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February 8, 2011

Serge Lutens Jeux de Peau (2011): No Truths, Just Skin, One Truth, Death Will Make Us Part {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

 

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From the bottle, still captive, the scent: Jeux de Peau, the latest Serge Lutens - and as always, eagerly awaited new creation - appears to be a very elegant, boozy, cereal-y concoction with a hint of melted butter. On subsequent tries, it strikes you how extraordinary it is that the smell wafting from an invisible pecan pie suspended in mid-air could feel so ethereal and realistic at the same time. The secret of the nose-cum-chef appears to be an immortelle-and-iris accord which bespeaks of the joys of feasting but also of the sensuality of pale skin, as pale as white flour, of death, and of immortality. The interview offered by the house alludes to the transiency of life thanks to evanescent yet precise aromas conjuring up the realm of childhood memories.

 

Introspective Gourmand-Oriental

 

jeux-de-peau-bottle.jpgFor starters, Jeux de Peau (Skin Games) continues to weave the gourmand-oriental thematic which is so peculiar to the author and certainly winning to someone like me as I recall that when the house opened, my very first two purchases were Arabie and Douce Amère isolating them as the two most distinctive and "different" perfumes next to the more classical yet beautiful florals like Sa Majesté la Rose (see review) or Datura Noir. An influence on the Lutensian universe which has been little explored, if at all, is its possibility to have been what it is thanks to the inspiration sourced from the iconic modern gourmand-oriental born in the 90s, Angel by Thierry Mugler. Lutens loves to parallel cedar wood with pastry for instance, an unusual synesthetic association which seems perfectly right-sounding to him. His perfumes, in a way, are like grocery stores of olfactive memorabilia, souk baskets of treats.

I am of the school that thinks that this gourmand-oriental concept was more than hinted at as early as in the 1920s with Shalimar by Guerlain. If we go back further in time, heliotrope perfumes with their cherry-pie note would be the timid groundbreakers of our olfactory nerve pathways that made it possible in the long run to admit foody perfumes on skin.

What Serge Lutens has done is turn the gourmand-oriental genre into an introspective genre, going further than Angel in that childhood memory serves not only nostalgia but the contemplation of the present and interrogations about the future. Nowhere have you seen gustatory notes capable of evoking such metaphysical or oniric disquiet. Food, we learn with Lutens, can be deep...

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February 3, 2011

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire 2 (2011): Guerlain Couture {New Perfume}

 

la_petite_robe_noire_2.jpgGuerlain have launched a new flanker to La Petite Robe Noire (Little Black Dress) introduced in 2009 (see review.) It is called La Petite Robe Noire 2. It was composed by in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser who in the press materials is portrayed as a near-couturier,

"Make me a little black dress. A companion for special and simple occasions that will boost my confidence! Modern, simplified with fine, minimal lines… A straight cut that goes straight to the heart! This is how I want my fragrance!” This was the desire of the decidedly chic woman who sought Thierry’s designing abilities."...

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January 31, 2011

P. Frapin & Cie. 1697 (2011) {New Perfume - Limited Edition}

frapin_perfume_1697.jpgP. Frapin & Cie will launch a new limited-edition unisex perfume from mid-February 2011 titled 1697. The name of the fragrance refers to the year in which the Frapin family became members of the French nobility thanks to a warrant issued by Louis XIV. The tag line is "The most sought after of the Frapin fragrances;" the special edition is numbered from 1 to 1697... 

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Guerlain Sketches Another Aqua Allegoria with Jasminora (2011) {New Perfume}

 

guerlain-aqua-allegoria-jasminora.jpgGuerlain have announced the introduction of another one of their yearly Aqua Allegoria perfumes. In 2011 it is a transparent jasmine composition called Jasminora. Launched as seasonal scents during spring and summer, the Aqua Allegorias sometimes remain in the permanent collection when success greets them...

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January 30, 2011

Elizabeth Arden Pretty Hot (2011) {New Perfume}

Elizabeth_Arden_Pretty_Hot_Ad.jpgElizabeth Arden have launched a new women's fragrance as part of the timely releases for Valentine's Day 2011. Pretty Hot follows Pretty. It was inspired by the sensual floral accents of Belle de Nuit, like Cascade by Chopard, Ricci Ricci by Nina Ricci and Playboy Play it Lovely. The composition is signed by perfumer Claude Dir of Givaudan. The tag line is "A little naughty. A lot of pretty."

"Too hot to handle, Pretty Hot Elizabeth Arden is a fragrance of unmistakable sexy confidence."....

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January 27, 2011

Christian Dior Aqua Fahrenheit (2011) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Christian Dior will introduce a new flanker to Fahrenheit called Aqua Fahrenheit. It is reportedly an Eau de Cologne inspired interpretation of the original perfume. The tag line is "L'Homme infiniment" (Infinitely a Man.)This new twist follows Fahrenheit 32 and a few others, but also more notably and more recently still Fahrenheit Absolute in 2009...

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Hermès Un Jardin sur le Toit (2011): From le Miel Béton to a Paris Roof Garden Perfume {New Fragrance}

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This spring of 2011, Hermès will launch a fourth fragrance in their Garden perfume series. It is called Un Jardin sur le Toit (A Garden on a Rooftop.) It follows Un Jardin en Méditerrannée, Un Jardin sur Le Nil and Un Jardin Après La Mousson, which were all playing the card of a certain exoticism. This time, it's back to Paris, we can assume.

It reminds me of this nature-in-the-city trend and in particular, a foody trend that saw the developments of honey harvested on top of roofs in Paris or so-called Miel Béton (Concrete Honey), including on the top of the Opéra Garnier. Vogue UK did say that they were invited to cook at the launch of the perfume...

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L'Occitane Rose Jardin Délice (2011): The Spirit of Lauren {New Fragrance}

loccitane-rose-jardin-delice.jpgI smelled this new creation by L'Occitane en Provence this morning in store. For all of you devotees of Lauren by Ralph Lauren (like me), this is one to be checked out. It manages to capture the atmosphere of the iconic 70s-80s scent in an intimate fashion: its fruity tonality, its touch of aromatic green and the sensual and dry woods. Rose Jardin Délice (Garden Rose Delight) is the latest launch by L'Occitane, part of their rose collection which already comprises Eau des 4 Reines and Rose de Nuit (no, it's not the Lutens, my bad)...

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