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March 2, 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier Ma Dame Eau de Parfum (2010): Black Vinyl Roses {New Perfume}

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John Galliano this spring may be going in a lighter direction with his new Eau de Toilette, but Jean Paul Gaultier is doing the reverse and proposing a darker, more rock n' roll and glamor version of Ma Dame EDT, the original (see also why they initially went for a fresh scent). Those were the natural places the designers could go to following the launches of their perfumes. One started deeper and needs to take a breath of fresh air, the other one came out fresh-smelling and now needs a little depth.

But wait, there is a fashion logic behind the new Ma Dame Eau de Parfum too: like the recently launched Classique X, it is inspired by the Jean Paul Gaultier Fall/Winter 2009/2010 X fashion looks...

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John Galliano Eau de Toilette (2010): Le Parfum No.2 de John Galliano {New Perfume}

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John Galliano is proposing a new twist on his debut signature perfume John Galliano Eau de Parfum, a composition which was inspired by the scent of Haute Couture ateliers. From April 2010, the designer will launch John Galliano, the Eau de Toilette. The composition is signed by perfumer Aurélien Guichard.

The flacon remains the same but the color palette has been lightened and made transparent giving a cue as to the fresher personality of the new fragrance...

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February 27, 2010

Etat Libre d'Orange Like This by Tilda Swinton (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


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Confidential, Paris-based-in-the-Marais-neighborhood perfume house Etat Libre d'Orange will launch, as previously announced, a new perfume whose muse is actress Tilda Swinton, from March 13, 2010 (the dates have been slightly changed)

It is called Like This.

Tilda Swinton herself turned for inspiration to Sufi philosophy and poet Rumi also called Jalal Ad-Din Muhammad Balkhi and Mevlana to chant the meaning of her perfume,

"Like this.

What does your fragrance smell like? Like this.

What does your fragrance feel like? Like this.

What do I do with this fragrance? Like this.

It's an idea that makes me very, very happy
.

Tilda"....


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February 26, 2010

Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme (2010) {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne} {Celebrity Scent}


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Gucci have started to roll out the launch of a new men's perfume meant to complement the mood of Gucci by Gucci pour Homme characterized as a "phenomenal success" by the brand. The new scent is called Gucci by Gucci Sport pour Homme and will continue to be fronted by actor James Franco who contributed to the success of the debut scent (see here and here.) Artistic director Frida Giannini said,

"I don't necessarily link it literally with sports,"... "It's more a sporty state of mind. Meaning, off-duty time and the attitude that comes from being relaxed and carefree."...

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February 25, 2010

Strellson No.1 (2010): ScentTrek Wacapou is the By-Word {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}


strellson-No1.jpgSwiss men's ready-to-wear brand Strellson will launch a new fragrance from mid-March 2010 called Strellson No.1. The perfume was developed by Givaudan and is one of those fragrances that benefit from the company's research into nature-inspired aromatic molecules that may bring new sensations to the consumer. Here, an aromatic material called ScentTrek Wacapou was included in the blend...

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February 24, 2010

Guerlain Flora Nymphea (2010): A Return to the Roots of Guerlain: Anglomania, Spleen, Belle Epoque and the Poetry of the Seasons {Perfume Review}

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Flora Nymphéa is the latest annual addition to the Aqua Allegoria line by Guerlain, due to launch on March the 8th, 2010 in France. The perfume's inspiration rests on the scent of mock orange (seringa). It also benefited from an exceptional quality of orange blossom sourced from Calabria from a three-generation family of producers, per the press materials.

As noted previously, the name for the fragrance this time calls attention to a more complex imagery than that of the pairing of two main ingredients: Figue-Iris, Laurier-Réglisse, Angélique-Lilas or Tiaré-Mimosa... On a semiotic plane, it is closer to such titles as Herba Fresca, Anisia Bella, Winter Delice and Flora Nerolia although it seems to put emphasis on an added poetic tonality, an impression which is reinforced by the advertising campaign featuring a nymph (model Anna Selezneva) out of a fairy-tale, and not simply a nymphea flower. The nymphea arguably appeared recently on the Guerlain Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus bottle in 2009.

If Mitsouko Fleur de Lotus was a return, to my nose, to a more authentic rendition of Mitsouko paradoxically created through different paths, Flora Nymphéa conveys a similar impression: that of a more original Guerlain marrow found inside a new skeleton supporting fresh flesh dressed up in new guises but done in the same technique of vaporous, vague flou as with some of the early Guerlains.

If the lotus and nymphea are the signs, inspirations and mental aids that Guerlain use to recapture their ability to compose Impressionist perfume-poems, so be it.

Flora Nymphéa is a delicate, romantic, less aquatic-and-new-freshness composition than we have come to expect from contemporary perfumes as well as most of the Aqua Allegoria line in particular. There is also more of the interesting jolie-laide harmony found in the antique Guerlains...

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Continue reading "Guerlain Flora Nymphea (2010): A Return to the Roots of Guerlain: Anglomania, Spleen, Belle Epoque and the Poetry of the Seasons {Perfume Review}" »

February 22, 2010

Penhaligon's Anthology Eau de Cologne and Orange Blossom (2010) {New Perfumes}


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This spring 2010, Penhaligon's is preparing to launch two new perfumes in their Anthology collection which has been dedicated to re-introducing a selection of long-discontinued perfumes hitherto only preserved in paper form in their archives. The house would possess archival records dating back to 1870, the year of their establishment in Jermyn street.

From March 29th, 2010, the scents Eau de Cologne and Orange Blossom will be available. One is a faithful recreation, the other one is not and uses poetic license...


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February 21, 2010

Perfumes Hedone EAU-MO Eau de Toilette Pour Gay (2009) {New Perfume}


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Last fall in November 2009 Spanish label Perfumes Hedoné introduced a fragrance dedicated to gay men called EAU-MO and subtitled Eau de Toilette Pour Gay.

"The smell of things is the only unequivocal proof that the soul exists.

Cedar smells like cedar; it smells like the spirit of youth. The bitter orange and lemon smell like summer afternoons; the sage, sleepless nights. And new smells are born when these different souls subtly and deliberately interlace. EAUMO smells like the first time. An endless journey, a cold shower, an unmade bed. It smells of the man we are inside, the man we'd like to be." ...

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February 20, 2010

Le Parfum Sex Pistols (2010): A French Look and Sniff at British Punk {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


le-parfum-sex-pistols.jpgSephora France will exclusively carry a new perfume from May 2010 dedicated to the remembrance of the heyday of the Sex Pistols. It's called Le Parfum Sex Pistols (Sex Pistols:The Perfume) and was announced by Vogue France rather than Vogue UK. It looks like a French cultural project put into perfume on this side of the Euro Star railway rather than emerging from across the channel.

The packaging makes you think a bit of the design of the Etat Libre d'Orange bottles when decorated, which they do for their celebrity fragrances like for Rossy de Palma Eau de Protection and Tom of Finland...

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February 15, 2010

Charriol Tourmaline (2010) {New Perfume}


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Following the launch of Charriol Parfums in 2008 to celebrate the 25th anniversary of the Geneva jewelry and timepiece house, the brand will introduce a new fragrance in April 2010 called Tourmaline. The initial catalog included Charriol eau de parfum, Charriol eau de toilette and Charriol pour Homme....

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