Monthly Archives from March 2006

December 14, 2007

Bois Contre Soi by Senke (2007) {New Fragrance & House}

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Senke is a brand new cosmetics and perfume brand founded by Priska Sarraméa, a beauty industry veteran who has worked for Gucci, Carolina Herrera, and Escada in the past. Senke is inspired by the ethical preoccupations derived from the ecological issues we all face at the dawn of the 21st century. More specifically the organic cosmetics and perfume line is based on research on the natural properties of trees; their products are eco-certified.

Bois Contre Soi (Wood Against Self) is an eau de parfum translating the philosophy of the house and is described as "An original organic creation, a unique composition, a name with a French touch".......

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December 13, 2007

Skarb by Humiecki & Graef (2007): How Men Cry - Part I {Perfume Review & Musings} {Scented Thoughts} {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Daniel Craig by Sam Taylor-Wood in Men Crying


Skarb means "treasure" in Polish; it is the name of the first fragrance put out by the niche perfume brand Humiecki and Graef, named after the two grandmothers of founders Sebastian Fischenich and Tobias Müksch: Helena Humiecka z Humiecina (1908-2000) and Katharina Graef (1906-2004).

There exists here so many networks of meaning on which the existence of this perfume rests that it is worthwhile to try to present a few of them. First the fragrance is said to explicitly refuse the traditional order and hierarchization of notes. Skarb is an attempt to reflect the intricacies of life and history - especially as impacted by National Socialism in Eastern Europe, the points of rejoinder and departure, the memories and emotions that beset and nurtured human lives in that region - into the language of perfumery........

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 Anschluss Tears

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Pyxis, Nenufar, Ankh by Scents Of Time: Towards An Archaeology of Perfume {New Fragrances}

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David Pybus, the well-known co-author with Charles Sell of The Chemistry of Fragrances and also author of Kodo The Way of Incense as well as Transports of Delight launched a new brand of perfumes titled Scents of Time. It will be exclusively devoted to the archaeological reconstruction of ancient perfumes long lost to mankind. The project took off initially thanks to a popular TV show on BBC 2 called Dragon's Den whose focus is to match up budding entrepreneurs with investment finance specialists.

Three perfumes Pyxis, Nenúfar and Ankh, debuted recently at the British Museum in the context of an exhibition on Tuthankamen. The whole collection currently comprises Nenúfar, "Cleopatra's sacred scent", Ankh, "Tuthankamen's aroma of intrigue", and Pyxis "The lost perfume of Pompeii". More fragrances are to follow, reportedly about twenty, as foreseen at the moment. According to the press release,......

 

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December 11, 2007

Louve by Serge Lutens (2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

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 The she-wolf... imagination carries reality away....who inhabits this name?
Where do wolves live? At the Louvre!
The she-wolf is heraldic. It resides on top of a mountain in a snow castle
A legend of the beginnings of time...a perfume? -- Serge Lutens
 
Louve by Serge Lutens is like a large diamond dropped and found in the snow letting out unusual fires and colors; perhaps they mimic the color of time. The faceted diamond then slowly morphs into a magical crystal ball into which one can look at things past and perhaps things to come as well. Louve seems to be built on a series of strange, fairy-like accords with unexpected twists and turns. The perfume is heartbreakingly beautiful like the memory of a lost kingdom you once used to visit when you were a child. The scent is all purity and innocence yet feels enriched by the dreams and memories of experience. It is a profoundly moving work of art and is so beautiful and real it brings involuntary tears to your eyes.

 

In a sense it is another incarnation of Douce Amère by Lutens, not olfactorily speaking so much although there is a bitter almond note but more to the point as by the bitter-sweet feeling it elicits out of you, shedding light on deep continuities in the work of Serge Lutens..........

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Romus and Remulus by Rubens

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December 8, 2007

Egg Nog, Christmas Tree by Demeter {Holiday Shopping Ideas - $20 or Less} {New Perfume}

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Demeter who want to put the whole world in fragrance bottles continue to expand their fragrance library with the addition of a season's favorite, Egg Nog. If you are looking for stocking stuffers or home fragrances to olfactorily "decorate" your house for the holidays, you can check Egg Nog and Christmas Tree. One might ask, "why bother to add a layer of the scents that already exist in the room?".......

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Night Show by Joaquín Cortés (2007) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Spanish company Idesa Parfums in collaboration with internationally renowned flamenco artist  Joaquín Cortés have released his first signature perfume called Night Show. Cortés has worked with Jennifer Lopez, Almodovar, Alicia Keyes in the past. For flamenco aficionados, he will be presenting his show, Mi Soledad, at the Broadway's Palace Theater from Dec 11 to Dec 22, 2007.

The perfume comes just after another celebrity fragrance called Siete was developed by Idesa with pop singer Alejandro Sanz.......

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December 7, 2007

The Beat by Burberry (2008): 3 Very British Notes {New Fragrance}

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Complementary information is now available on the upcoming Burberry The Beat. You can read our previous post about the young audience it wants to reach with well-established youth-culture references of the past. The juice was composed by a team of three perfumers: Dominique Ropion, Olivier Polge, and Béatrice Piquet who are important commercial perfumers often participating in big industry launches.......

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December 6, 2007

Myrte - Myrtle by L'Occitane (2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}

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As previously announced, L'Occitane introduced this fall a collection of four fragrances called Notre Flore (Our Flora) and Les Quatre Vents (The Four Winds). It is inspired by richly historic aromas of the Mediterranean region, in particular as they were perceived by mariners upon approaching the coastal areas. Myrtle in this case is the scent carried by the winds around Corsica, which signaled the imminent appearance of the "Island of Beauty".

The concept is a priori lovely as it intertwines history, affective memories, and poetry. To attempt to recreate the past through an immediate olfactory sensation is the best time-travel machine man has constructed thus far. Devoting attention to very specific micro geographic areas and and attempting to revive a history of the senses, further contribute to the interest of the project........

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"Le Myrte" in Les fleurs animées by Grandville, 1867

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December 5, 2007

Mwah by Chanelle Hayes {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

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Image Mike Marsland/Wireimage.com - (Do not reproduce without Wireimage.com's permission)
 

Mwah by Chanelle Hayes must be the ultimate abstract celebrity fragrance where image takes precedence over substance, i.e., the scent itself. It is impossible to find any information about the jus contained in the bottle. Who cares anyway, right? The ruby red glass bottle looks cute and Chanelle Hayes strikes all the right enticing poses for the media, a perfume flacon strategically placed in her hand; it matches her lipstick too.

The reporters flock to the event to officially discover the fragrance that has become a mere accessory in the pursuit of fame and brand recognition building. But at least with Alex by Alex Curran or Coleen X there were some passing mentions of the jus. Nobody is pretending anymore after a volley of celebs scents hit the market. It's all about everything else but the perfume. That bottle is asking itself "What am I doing here, really?"

It gets an award from us for "Most Obscure Celebrity Fragrance" of 2007 because it's simply irrelevant to ask what the notes are, therefore the perfume itself is the most obscure of them all........

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Cosmic by Solange Agazury-Partridge (2007) {New Fragrance}

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London-based Jeweler Solange Agazury-Partridge has issued a new perfume creation following her debut scent in 2006, Stoned. The new one is called Cosmic and seems to retain similar gourmand elements albeit of an upscale quality, as well as continue to incorporate poetic mineral dust. Wherever your sense of luxury lies, for the brand it is to be found in particles of rare materials. Last time it was diamond dust, this time it is ground meteorites dust........

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December 4, 2007

Love, Beyond Love by By Kilian {Perfume Reviews & Musings} {New Fragrances}

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We just came back from a visit to the By Kilian website and we have to admit, the biggest shock we have experienced this year so far in terms of marketing attention-getting ploy, is not the by now infamous vision of a naked derrière belonging to Tom Ford or one of his cohorts (can’t remember and don’t care to) with accessorily a perfume bottle neatly tucked in between the cheeks, like a suppository, a felicitous association if ever there was one, but this: complete perfume formulas posted on a perfumer’s website to convince you that they, by contrast with the competition, truly do stand above the fray and the norm.......
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Burberry Launches The Beat {Fragrance News} {New Perfume}

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Image Nick Harvey/Wireimage.com - (Do not reproduce without Wireimage.com's permission)

Burberry held a launch party in London at trendy club Koko yesterday on December 3, 2007 to introduce its new fragrance called The Beat, developed in collaboration with Interparfums. The scent aims to reach the hip and young crowd while offering an older generation revivalist flavor combining canonic edgy references to Studio 54 and the Swinging Sixties in London. Who said the young could be left alone to define themselves? Like Calvin Klein more recently with CKIN2U, Burberry is offering its own fragranced version of youth culture and it is not so much techno as retro, but in disguise.......

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December 3, 2007

Parfum de Femme by Montana {New Fragrance}

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After releasing its series of three perfumes embodying three moods in 2006 and designing a pâtisserie inspired by Parfum d'Elle last June, Montana is launching a new solo feminine fragrance this end of year called Parfum de Femme, as if in reference to Dino Risi's movie Profumo di Donna which gave the remake Scent of a Woman. The perfume is described as a floral-oriental.......

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December 2, 2007

Tamarind Paprika Limited Holiday Edition 2007 by Dawn Spencer Hurwitz {Perfume Short (Review)} {New Fragrance} + Promo Code {Shopping Tip}

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Each year Dawn Spencer Hurwitz releases a special limited edition fragrance for the Holidays with a more definite festive and Christmas-y flavor. This year the theme of inspiration is derived from exotic dark fruits and spices incorporated into an unusual, both spicy and gentle brew called Tamarind Paprika in her upscale collection titled Parfums des Beaux-Arts.

Spencer Hurwitz is an independent artisan perfumer based in Boulder, Colorado whose creations are noteworthy for their consistently high quality and variety of sources of inspiration ranging from "études" on a perfume material to the olfactory renditions of colors and even historical reconstitutions. Her most recent endeavor, about which we would like to talk more at a later date titled "The Perfumed Court", after the nickname given to the court of Louis XV, is a recreation of 18th century perfumes based on the biography of perfumer Jean-Paul Fargeon and his royal patron queen Marie-Antoinette written by Elisabeth de Feydeau, A Scented Palace and which we reviewed last year.........

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November 30, 2007

Elle d'Elissa {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}

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Lebanese singer Elissa has released a signature perfume called Elle d'Elissa. The Arab press stresses the fact that it is a first for woman artist in the Arab world to have both an eponymous perfume and one created by a Western company (Georges Stahl).........

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