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The Scented Salamander Blog A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly. "Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark" Latest Fragrance Reviews Dior Escale à Parati Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue Ferragamo Signorina Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés Jo Malone Plum Blossom Madonna Truth or Dare Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum
Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y. Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie Fragrance Essays Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes? Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes? Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s
Reviews of New Perfumes Diptyque Eau Rose Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Sisley Eau d'Ikar Mary Greenwell Plum Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Estée Lauder Wood Mystique Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Bottega Veneta EDP From the Archives Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.
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 Ed Hardy by Christian Audigier will introduce a duo of fragrances for women and men called Hearts & Daggers in the first quarter of 2010. The perfumes are meant "... to reflect the striking nature of the clothing brand." The women's Eau de Parfum features top notes of blood orange orpur, violet leaf and
apple; middle notes of mango, apple blossoms and pink jasmine; and
drying notes blending cashmere musk, amber, benzoin tears orpur and
blond wood....
Continue reading "Ed Hardy Hearts & Daggers for Women & Men (2010) {New Perfumes}" »
 As previously announced, Sweden-based perfume house Byredo have released their ninth perfume which pays homage to the poet Charles Baudelaire. It is called Baudelaire. The perfume was inspired by a passage, 5-8, from a poem from Les Fleurs du Mal entitled "Parfum Exotique" (Exotic Perfume). This passage is about the conjuring-up of the aromas and images of an exotic island on a warm fall evening in Paris (Baudelaire loved Paris like nothing else and famously hated the bucolic charms of the countryside) while breathing in the perfumes emanating from the bosom of his lover, « . . . a lazy isle to which nature has given
singular trees, savory fruits,
men with bodies vigorous and slender,
and women in whose eyes shines a startling candor . . . »
...
Continue reading "Byredo Baudelaire (2009) {New Perfume}" »
 As I already remarked in 2007, there is a sub-branch of the celebrities fragrances business that is that of the dead-celebrity perfume. Now My DNA Fragrance which specializes in harvesting your DNA to propose custom-tailored scents replicating your pheromones has taken an even bolder step after POTUS 1600. It has now turned to the slightly lugubrious idea of creating perfumes based on the DNA of dead celebrities. The tag line is " ENGINEERED from the DNA of some of the most recognized Celebrities and Famous people in the world." The brand has partnered with the foremost authority on and collector of dead illustrious persons' hair, not that there must be a ton of such collectors attracted to the weird and the bizarre, nor that much hair around. John Reznikoff has the distinction of having earned the title of "pre-eminent hair collector" "My DNA Fragrance has analyzed Reznikoff's private collection of celebrity hair and has engineered exclusive fragrances of each one.
Reznikoff was an expert witness for the US Justice Department and has aided the FBI and other law enforcement agencies. He has appeared on The Wall Street Journal Video Channel, CNN's Situation Room with Wolf Blitzer, ABC Nightline, and Good Morning America and has written for nationally circulated magazines. Reznikoff has the largest authenticated hair collection of famous people in the world."....
Continue reading "My DNA Fragrance Antiquity Line Based on the DNA of Dead Celebrities (2009) {New Perfumes} {Celebrity Fragrances} " »
 Natori by Josie NatoriThe perfume starts with a subtle, surface powdery impression soon followed by a beautiful both intense and understated aldehydic white floral bouquet like a cleaner but no less feminine Joy by Patou. It is a Joy Americanized, made easier to wrap your mind around, offering the clarity of lines of a beautiful race automobile. The impression of Joy came to me before I went to check some background information about the scent. Josie Natori said that growing up she was used to reveling in rich perfumes: Joy by Patou that her grand-mother wore, as well as Bal à Versailles by Jean Desprez, both which can be described as old-school French perfumes. This is just the introduction as it turns out. While you were checking the box next to the word "linear" in your mind as one more sign of Americanization in the jus, the fragrance starts to slowly fade into a deeper, darker and fruitier atmosphere reminiscent of the oriental base with myrrh in Gianni Versace (1981) which has aldehydic, fruity, and chypre facets as well...
Continue reading "Natori by Josie Natori (2009): Abstract Lingerie Perfume {Perfume Review}" »
 Barbara Orbison, the widow of singer and composer Roy Orbison, has launched a fragrance inspired by the song Pretty Woman composed by her husband. Elvis Presley said about the musician that "Roy Orbison is the greatest singer in the world," and Paul McCartney thought along the same lines " He was and always will be one of the greats of rock 'n' roll."... 
Continue reading "Barbara Orbison Pretty Woman (2009) {New Perfume}" »
 If you love architecture and deplore our loss of connectedness to our sense of touch not just to smell, you will have to check out this new perfume whose core concept was created by architect Thierry Bogaert. The idea for him was to propose a "... synthesis of his love for matter, form and the sensuality of perfume." Voile de Béton (Veil of Concrete) is an artisan-made concrete structure designed by Bogaert who is passionate about the material and has used it in urban design. Each unique concrete veil resembling that of a boat shelters a bottle of the perfume going by the same name. The scent is described as a unisex fragrance...
Continue reading "Design Thierry Bogaert Voile de Beton (2009) {New Perfume}" »
 Nature et Découvertes (Nature and Discoveries), the chain of stores specializing in natural lifestyle founded in 1990 by François and Françoise Lemarchand is in the process of developing their beauty corners. They have just released a debut trio of perfumes that are eco-certified 100% natural and even more, they are made out of a proportion of 83% to 85% organic ingredients. The fragrances are called Nectar de Sajara (Sajara Nectar), Bulle de Yuzu (Yuzu Bubble) and Sève de Wenge (Wenge Sap) and are part of a collection entitled Esquisses de Nature (Sketches of Nature)....
Continue reading "Nature et Decouvertes Nectar de Sajara, Bulle de Yuzu, Seve de Wenge (2009) {New Perfumes}" »
 Coiffeur to both celebrities and grateful Sephora-goers Frederic Fekkai has launched his first personal fragrance called Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum. It is part of the brand's Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Collection which wishes to weave together functionality and olfactory hedonism, pairing beauty and olfaction. To spice up things, the tag line in the form of a message of affirmation is printed on the bottle in Fekkai's handwriting and with his autograph, " The spirit of a woman -- revealed." Next time, I suggest selling an erasable pen that can be used on a specially studied surface on the perfume bottle so that one could add one's favorite quote of the moment and absorb it while spritzing...
Continue reading "Frederic Fekkai Femme Fekkai Sensuelle Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Perfume} {Beauty & Olfaction}" »
 Auric Blends, which are well-known for their budget, accessible and sexy perfume oils have now turned to all-natural perfume-making. You might have heard of their #1 best-seller Egyptian Goddess, a soft feminine musk scent, but also more recently of their #2 best-seller Love voted my fave in 2007 for Valentine's Day now repackaged in pink to make the charm work better. The brand have released a quatuor of new fragrance oils which play the green, eco-conscious card that so many are attracted to these days and for good reason. It's just that sometimes marketed compositions are still a bit medicinal, in an involuntary way, or too simple. It's not always easy, but Auric Blends which specialize in simple mixes should not disappoint for the latter part at least. At the same time, I see more and more sophisticated eco-certified blends appear, especially in France...
Continue reading "Auric Blends Naturals Layla, Pele, Siren, Tara (2009) {New Perfumes} {Green Products} " »
 Parfumerie Générale will launch a new perfume called Papyrus de Ciane in February 2010. The scent is said to be a woodsy green fragrance. Perfume history buffs will appreciate the finer points of the composition as it is said to be based on " a contemporary interpretation of Mousse de Saxe (Saxe Moss)" a famous perfumery base created by fragrance company De Laire that was used most notably by the house of Caron, for example in Nuit de Noël and is a reference for perfumers. Isabelle Doyen confessed once that she would have loved to create it and considers it a little jewel. "Papyrus... Des Fontaines d'Aréthuse, aux eaux brunes des méandres de Ciane, sa noblesse se pare d'ombelles à l'éclat vert intense..."
Papyrus...From the Arethuse fountain to the meandering dark waters of Ciane, the elegant sway of intense green plumes..."
 The ink on the packaging of Vera Wang Rock Princess has seldom dried, and my written thoughts on it have not quite gelled (it's good, but how good is it?), that it has now been announced that a new princess franchise perfume called Vera Wang Glam Princess will launch in December 2009. Why so many, so soon, you might ask? "The theory? That fickle younger consumers are constantly buying what is
new and different -- so new expressions once or twice a season offer the
best chance to keep that customer loyal."...
Continue reading "Vera Wang Glam Princess: Fronted by Zoe Kravitz (2009) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »
 As announced earlier, Balenciaga have decided to revive their perfume label reportedly left fallow for some 15 to 20 years (they might be thinking of their more classic feminines with either Rumba (1988) or Talisman (1994) as representing the cut-off dates; Cristobal was launched in 1998 and Cristobal pour Homme in 2000). In February 2010, the fragrance Balenciaga Paris will launch in Europe and the US. It is described as a contemporary violet chypre and was created by perfumer Olivier Polge of IFF who just won the Grand Prix International du Parfum. The new perfume will be fronted by actress Charlotte Gainsbourg but the perfume will have much more to do with the universe of artistic director Nicolas Ghesquière. Gainsbourg is a friend of Ghesquière, the ad will reference Spain, his home country, the bottle is his idea, and the composition itself attempts to incorporate his favorite smells...
Continue reading "Balenciaga Paris Eau de Parfum (2010): Fronted by Charlotte Gainsbourg {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance} {Sniffing Suggestions}" »
 We have the scoop on exciting celebrity fragrance news from French label Etat Libre d'Orange. As we indicated early on in the process, indie perfume brands have become increasingly interested in the celebrity fragrance market, just like the big dogs, so to speak (Coty, Avon, Parlux, Elizabeth Arden/Unilever...). You have to realize that this is a fun way to take a second, closer critical look at the notion of being an "independent" niche house, when you see that the movement was initiated by major fragrance labels first and that indies followed the lead. But as noted earlier, indies tend to pick celebrity personalities that are relatively more underground and quirky (as compared to Britney Spears, still quirky admittedly, and JLo)... 
Continue reading "Etat Libre d'Orange will Release Tilda Swinton & Josephine Baker Perfumes {Fragrance News}" »
 Calvin Klein just introduced a new flanker to Euphoria EDP in an Eau de Toilette version. "Experience the mystery of Euphoria with a luminescent, more delicate and sheer interpretation of the original fragrance.
Illuminating. Sensual. Mysteriously glamorous.
Euphoria Eau de Toilette, a sense of seduction transparent with desire."
Notes and French advert after the jump...
Continue reading "Calvin Klein Euphoria Eau de Toilette (2009) {New Perfume, New Flanker} " »
 Lolita Lempicka have released their 6th limited-edition of their annual Eau de Minuit (Midnight Eau). The 2009 version is decorated with an ajouré red metallic case and adorned further with trimmings. The jus is said to be ever more sensual, carnal and is billed as an oriental gourmand enriched with notes that "... are even more noble, precious and new: myrrh, jasmine, iris concrete, benzoin and vanilla infusion,"....
Continue reading "Lolita Lempicka Eau de Minuit (2009) {New Perfume} {New Flacon}" »
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