Fragrance Review of Balmain Ambergris
The Smell of Natural Gray Amber or Ambergris {Scented Thoughts}
Ambergris is an organic animalic material excreted by sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus). This substance in its natural state or near-natural state, i.e., as an infusion, on which I am basing my olfactory report here, has a wonderful, deep, and almost unbearable intensity before it finally mellows down. The tiniest amount of what is already a dilution, something like 5 % in alcohol, takes on a life of its own once it hits the skin becoming worthy of the most ostentatious of monarchs holding court with a seductive, yet iron fist.
Before it alights on the skin, the scent of ambergris emanating from a phial evokes intriguingly enough the smell of pungent dusty old leather-bound books, ones that would have been left to gather the aromas of spices in the most stocked-up of the Comptoir de la Compagnie des Indes spice warehouse and the most religiously frequented too as a suggestion of smoky incense passes before the nose.
Once transfigured by the warmth of the skin, the ambergris starts to glow and finally becomes that sensation to which it gives its name, amber-y, creating a luminous effect which is very close to the visual sensation felt next to a fire burning in a fireplace or sunlight shining through a thick brown glass bottle.
A thousand nuances seem to congregate into a few recognizable facets smelling of dry herbs but also of peach, apricot, leather, dusty parchment, baby powder before the fact, white rice flour, a tinge of almond, sweet fruits, earth, skin, sandalwood, wine-y resin, manure, sand, iodine, hay, moss, cinnamon...It is a world opening up in and of itself, a minuscule universe that has formed thanks to the sea, salt, sun, and marine animals......
"Raisins" amber glass bracelet by René Lalique, 1919, from Ragoarts
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