Monthly Archives from March 2006

April 24, 2008

Auguste Esprit de Cuir, Esprit de Chypre, Esprit de Chine {New Fragrances}

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New in the US are three luxurious fragrances by French perfume house and more generally speaking bienêtrerie (an invented word) Auguste established in 1994. They are Esprit de Cuir, Esprit de Chypre, Esprit de Chine. Bottled in antique-looking porcelain flacons that seem inspired by tea caddies, these are available in pure parfum concentration only. In France, they are sold privately through a registered sale system. All seem to present a characteristic old-school, authentic vintage flair according to the ad copy,

"The old-world, vintage feel of the composition [Esprit de Cuir] is astounding. If somebody told us that this was an ancient scent discovered, perfectly preserved, in an attic, we wouldn’t have been surprised." .......

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April 22, 2008

Montale Introduces 6 New Perfumes (2008) {New Fragrances}

 
 
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Montale, which is a prolific house, has launched six new fragrances, three in its Aoud Collection and three in the regular line. They are Aoud Flowers, Red Aoud, Golden Aoud, Sunset Flowers, Mukhallat and Oriental Flowers.

Aoud Flowers, described as a "masculine fragrance on the edge of femininity", has notes of rose absolute, geranium flowers, gaiac wood, teak wood, bergamot, musk....

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April 21, 2008

Juliette Has A Gun Citizen Queen (2008) {New Perfume}

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After the initial joint release of Lady Vengeance and Miss Charming in 2006, the niche perfume brand Juliette Has A Gun is launching a new feminine fragrance called Citizen Queen offering yet another storied cinematic reference with a play on words and a nod to Orson Welles' Citizen Kane....

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April 20, 2008

B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful Inhale, Exhale, & Breath of God (2007-2008) {New Fragrances}

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Last year we reported for the first time about Lush's sister company, B Never Too Busy To Be Beautiful. Their sense of whimsy was immediately attractive just by looking at the stories and packaging. This year the brand have released three new perfumes with the added twist that the latest one happens to be quite literally the love child of the first two.

Inhale (for her) and Exhale (for him) have recently given birth to Breath of God. In-house perfumer Simon Constantine was inspired for this series by his travel to Tibet.....

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Prada Exclusive No. 8 Opoponax, No.9 Benjoin, No. 10 Myrrhe (2008) {New Fragrances}

 

 
 
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Prada have launched a new trio of exclusive scents in their boutique collection called No. 8 Opoponax, No. 9 Benjoin (Benzoin), and No. 10 Myrrhe (Myrrh). They come complete a library of perfumes each devoted to the interpretation of a particular raw material with ingredients sourced in a very selective fashion and which already includes No. 1 Iris, No. 2 Oeillet, No. 3 Cuir Ambre, No. 4 Fleur d'Oranger released in 2003, as well as No. 5 Narciso, No. 6 Tubereuse, No. 7 Violette introduced in 2007........

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April 19, 2008

Darphin Bambou & Thé Vert, Muguet & Violette, Ylang & Vanille (2008) {New Fragrances}

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Cosmetics brand Darphin, which is known for having developed aromatic beauty products for skin-care as well as fresh perfumes called Eaux de Beauté which could be rather sophisticated like the Eau de Beauté Aromatique that seems to have been inspired by First by Van Cleef & Arpels, have launched a line of new fragrances dubbed "Colognes" inspired by simple accords.....

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April 17, 2008

Niurka Marcos Con Feromonas (2008) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}

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We previously reported about Cuban actress Niurka Marcos preparing to launch her signature perfume. It has been unveiled now in Mexico and is called, without any ambiguity whatsoever, Niurka Marcos con Feromonas (Niurka Markos with Pheromones), unless the ambiguity be that there is a Niurka Marcos without pheromones, which we doubt is what will cross people's minds. She also promises the introduction of a masculine flanker next year titled Elvis con Feromonas.

The new feminine scent should make it to the US and Puerto Rican markets next year.

Source: Anodis 

Parfums de Nicolaï Eau Turquoise (2008) {New Perfume}

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Parfums de Nicolaï are introducing a new perfume for summer of 2008 titled Eau Turquoise. It is part of the Eaux Fraîches collection which already comprises Eau d'Eté, Fig Tea, Vie de Château, and Eau Exotique.....

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April 16, 2008

Familia Zuccardi Malbec Cologne (2008): An Argentinian Wine Perfume {New Fragrance}

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Malbec grapes 

 

Familia Zuccardi, an Argentinian winery located on the outskirts of the city of Mendoza, 1000 kms to the West of Buenos Aires have launched a new debut masculine fragrance based on the aromas of Malbec or Malbeck wine, as it is iconic of Argentinian wines.

The fashion of bringing together the worlds of wine-making or liqueur-making and perfume-making in personal fragrances has been illustrated by brands such as Frapin, Ginestet and Courvoisier....

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Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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The latest Dolce & Gabbana The One for Men is said by Gabbana to be an all-man's perfume, "I wanted to create a real man's fragrance" and the designer according to WWD emphasized the word "uomo" in the conversation. The ad fronted by Matthew McConaughey in the role of a (fully-dressed for once) Latin-inspired masculine icon was photographed by Jean-Baptiste Mondino. A micro site was set up to promote the new cologne.

The One for Men is a warm, sweet and fruity tobacco perfume in the oriental genre. The brand describes it as "a spicy, oriental perfume developed on the harmony of tobacco with refined boisé notes". The flacon is meant to directly reflect the fashion sense of the brand as "the proportions of the bottle recall a tailor suit made by the fashion house" (see also Narciso Rodriguez for Him).

Noteworthy points are the fact that the scent emphasizes the fruity tonality - less common a phenomenon for masculine fragrances than for feminine ones currently (see Calvin Klein Man) - and that you can find a well-developed quote in the heart from a famous discontinued Italian oriental classic.......

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Miller Harris Le Petit Grain (2008): A Family Perfume {New Fragrance}

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Miller Harris will launch a new Eau de Parfum in the Nouvelle Edition Collection on May 12th 2008 called Le Petit Grain. It is perfumer Lyn Harris' own interpretation of the classic genre of the Eau de Cologne whose origins are traced back to the 18th century to its forerunner, the Aqua Mirabilis.

In keeping with the original spirit of a quasi medicinal preparation that was long considered to hold sufficient virtues to stand as a sort of panacea, Le Petit Grain is described by Lyn Harris as a "family cologne" that all in the household can use.....

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April 15, 2008

Virgin Le Cuir (2008): Smelling Like You Travel Premium {New Fragrance}

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When news reached us that leather goods company Coach were going to release their first fragrance, in September of 2006, we remember making the comment that it would be interesting and unexpected at the same time to see them propose a leather perfume, as the fragrance market seemed not to be very welcoming to those. A logical enough thought, but the brand did not take this route.......

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Ted Lapidus Altamir (2008): The Trail of Orange Blossom {New Fragrance} {Men's Cologne}

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Fashion design brand Ted Lapidus has released a new masculine perfume called Altamir. The scent is described as an oriental featuring a delicate yet intense note of orange blossom further encased in an orange-y accord.

Last year, Jean Paul Gaultier put the spotlight on this floral note in his (officially) gender-bending masculine fragrance, Fleur du Mâle....

 

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April 14, 2008

Balmain Ambre Gris (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance} {Scented Thoughts}

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Fragrance Review of Balmain Ambergris 


The Smell of Natural Gray Amber or Ambergris {Scented Thoughts}


Ambergris is an organic animalic material excreted by sperm whales (Physeter macrocephalus). This substance in its natural state or near-natural state, i.e., as an infusion, on which I am basing my olfactory report here, has a wonderful, deep, and almost unbearable intensity before it finally mellows down. The tiniest amount of what is already a dilution, something like 5 % in alcohol, takes on a life of its own once it hits the skin becoming worthy of the most ostentatious of monarchs holding court with a seductive, yet iron fist.

Before it alights on the skin, the scent of ambergris emanating from a phial evokes intriguingly enough the smell of pungent dusty old leather-bound books, ones that would have been left to gather the aromas of spices in the most stocked-up of the Comptoir de la Compagnie des Indes spice warehouse and the most religiously frequented too as a suggestion of smoky incense passes before the nose.

Once transfigured by the warmth of the skin, the ambergris starts to glow and finally becomes that sensation to which it gives its name, amber-y, creating a luminous effect which is very close to the visual sensation felt next to a fire burning in a fireplace or sunlight shining through a thick brown glass bottle.

A thousand nuances seem to congregate into a few recognizable facets smelling of dry herbs but also of peach, apricot, leather, dusty parchment, baby powder before the fact, white rice flour, a tinge of almond, sweet fruits, earth, skin, sandalwood, wine-y resin, manure, sand, iodine, hay, moss, cinnamon...It is a world opening up in and of itself, a minuscule universe that has formed thanks to the sea, salt, sun, and marine animals......

 

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"Raisins" amber glass bracelet by René Lalique, 1919, from Ragoarts 
 

Continue reading "Balmain Ambre Gris (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrance} {Scented Thoughts}" »

Gucci by Gucci Eau de Toilette (2008) {New Perfume - New Concentration}

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Following the success and the accolades received by the previously released Gucci by Gucci Eau de Parfum in 2007, the brand has launched a new version of their perfume in a lighter concentration, the Eau de Toilette, bottled this time in a transparent glass bottle rather than a dark smoky one....

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