Monthly Archives from March 2006

March 30, 2010

Nina Ricci Le Paradis de Nina (2010) {New Perfume}


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Nina Ricci will launch a new perfume this spring in the Nina collection called Le paradis de Nina (The Paradise of Nina.) Each year now the brand puts out a flanker building on the success of the original from 2006. This year, the olfactory twist will be the scent of madeleine, an iconic pastry in the realm of olfactory culture as it was its taste mingled with that of an infusion of linden blossom which mythically opened the quest for a past long vanished in La recherche du temps perdu by Marcel Proust.

Perfumers Marie Salamagne and Olivier Cresp of IFF sign the new edition bottled in a pastel rose flacon...

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March 29, 2010

Diptyque to Launch Vetyverio (2010) {New Perfume}


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A page from the raw-materials story board for Vetyverio.


Niche perfumery house Diptyque will launch a new perfume from May 2010 called Vetyverio. It is said to be inspired by the vision of the bird named Pada of Java taking flight in the forest from a grove of vetiver.

The fragrance was created by perfumer Olivier Pescheux of Givaudan who already composed the trio of Diptyque Eaux de Cologne (2008) which was followed by a fourth house variation on the genre signed by him as well, L'Eau de Tarocco (2009)...

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March 28, 2010

Mary J Blige My Life (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


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Since the fall of 2008, news started circulating that singer Mary J Blige was going to launch her own signature perfume in collaboration with Carol's Daughter...

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Armani Acqua di Gioia (2010): Primeval Woman {New Perfume}


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Giorgio Armani is preparing to introduce a new perfume for women called Acqua di Gioia in June 2010 which is said to represent "...the new Eve of Armani seduction." Armani was inspired by water, the feminine form, the sea, nature and his stays at the islands of Pantelleria and Antigua where he owns two holidays homes.

The central concept for the fragrance was to imagine a woman in perfect harmony with nature who is "strong, serene and free-spirited, "....

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March 27, 2010

Tova Turquoisé (2010) {New Perfume}


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Popular fragrance developer Tova has introduced a new perfume called Tova Turquoisé. It is debuting on the Germany QVC site.

If the name of the fragrance seems to be an allusion to a blue marine scent, there is no sign of it in the description of the perfume notes. Like the new SJP NYC by Sarah Jessica Parker, it is described as a strawberry scent with a fresh, fruity and casual personality. It offers a woodsy facet as well...

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The Latest Teachings in Perfumery are the Oxymoron and New Depth + Jo Malone Cologne Intense Collection (2010) {New Perfume} {Scented Thoughts}



yves-klein-Le_Saut_Dans_le_Vide.jpgLe saut dans le vide / The Leap into the Void, with Yves Klein. By Harry Shunk via Wikimedia Commons.


Lately, a number of perfumes have started trickling into the market which present a common point: the oxymoronic structure.They claim to be the plausible combinations of lightness and depth using a different approach from that of the classical pyramidal structure starting with the fastest-evaporating notes at the top and drying down to the most lasting notes. Other prototypes approaching this description in the olden days would have been the genre of the fresh oriental or that of the ambery eau de cologne. It remains to be seen whether the approach is indeed reflected in novel olfactory impressions or if the newness is to be found more in a discourse attempting to influence our perceptions of these fragrances.

What I find noteworthy is that these fragrances more clearly indicate that there is a turning point and a distancing from the New Freshness of the 1990s which emphasized stretchable transparencies in empty space. For lack of a better expression, the new movement could be termed New Depth for its oppositional and dialectal relationship to New Freshness. It is a return to skin. Whereas New Freshness made the human body feel more ethereal and weightless and called attention to space surrounding it, New Depth is a return to a perfumery which is more about the immediacy of skin and is therefore person-centric. At the same time, dialectical progress has been made which creates a new synthesis trying to preserve both the teachings of old-school corporeal perfumery, in which lightness and depth are not ideologically separate, and New Freshness perfumery, which distinguished itself from corporeal perfumery by dichotomizing itself into pure- and ethereal-smelling molecules, offering as a result in reaction to it, New Depth ...

Continue reading "The Latest Teachings in Perfumery are the Oxymoron and New Depth + Jo Malone Cologne Intense Collection (2010) {New Perfume} {Scented Thoughts}" »

March 25, 2010

La Cologne du Parfumeur by Guerlain (2010): Private Reserve + Sip it First, then Test it {New Perfume}


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Perfume-review-logo-3-B.jpg{A fragrance review of Cologne du Parfumeur by Guerlain was added to the blog!}


Guerlain this spring will be introducing this uncommon thing for them, an Eau de Cologne. This is the first one since 1974 when Eau de Guerlain was launched. It will be the fifth eau still available in this classical genre which is seeing a renaissance. It is also a rightful tribute as it is an eau de cologne which made the house famous with L'Eau de Cologne Impériale created by the founder of the house Pierre-François-Pascal Guerlain in 1853 for Empress Eugénie in part to help her alleviate her migraines. There used to be also a Cologne Russe, which was considered to be on a par with the now more famous Eau de Cologne Impériale, but also the Eau de Cologne Ambrée. Guerlain classic perfumes used to be available in eau de cologne concentration...

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March 19, 2010

Parfumerie Générale Gardénia Grand Soir, Bois Naufragé (2010) {New Perfumes}


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Parfumerie Générale by Pierre Guillaume is launching a duo of limited-editions this spring 2010. One of the fragrances is a floral called Gardénia Grand Soir (Gala Evening Gardenia) and the other one a woodsy composition, Bois Naufragé (Shipwrecked Wood)....


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Gai Mattiolo That's Amore Tropical Paradise Tahitian Vanilla & Tahitian Water (2010) {New Perfumes}


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Gai Mattiolo are going to release a limited-edition women and men duo of tropical-paradise inspired fragrances from April called Tahitian Vanilla and Tahitian Water in their That's Amore series.

I don't know if you are seeing it the same way I do, but they seem to be morphing into the tropical Escada concept complete with cartoonish illustrations. Maybe they're hoping no one will notice the difference and people will grab theirs?...

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Clarins Eau des Jardins (2010): Wear it in Good Health {New Perfume}


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As a big fan of Eau Dynamisante (1987) the debut "therapeutic" fragrance by Clarins which started this mainstream concept that you could smell good while taking care of your psyche and skin at the same time, I am rather, a little bit excited by the upcoming Eau des Jardins (Gardens' Water).

They've had other healthy eaux follow up on Eau Dynamisante but none that I thought smelled better. This one seems to offer a galore of essential oils mixed with synthetics still like white musks, but chances look good this time that it will be particularly uplifting...

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Blugirl Jus No.1 (2010) {New Perfume}


blugirl-jus-no1-B.jpgThe Blumarine-family label Blugirl will launch its debut perfume called Jus No.1 following up on the release of Blumarine Bellissima in the fall of 2009. The word "jus" is sometimes disliked by perfumers who think it is not noble enough a term, just like some cringe at the use of the term "nose" to designate a perfumer. Personally, I don't have any problems with either of these designations as they sound more familiar and affectionate to my ears than derogatory.

About the new scent, the brand said,

"We wanted to create a romantic essence with a touch of irony in keeping with the brand. We had the idea to call the scent Jus No.1, to be a bit ironic, playing with the word juice which can mean fragrance or also a beverage,"....

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John Varvatos Artisan Black (2010) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}

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John Varvatos will launch a limited-edition flanker to their 2009 twist on an 18th century eau de cologne complete with a rattan casing called Artisan, a bestseller of the brand. The new iteration is titled Artisan Black and is meant to be a more intense version of the original scent by accentuating the woody and musky tonalities and being more long lasting...

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March 18, 2010

Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes by Elizabeth Arden (2010): It Begins with a Look {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}


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Perfume-review-logo-3-B.jpg{A fragrance review of Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes has been added to the blog!}



The cinematic amethyst-colored eyes of actress Elizabeth Taylor are legendary. Elizabeth Arden have paid homage to their beauty and iconicity by releasing a new perfume in the star's portfolio called Violet Eyes. The tag line is "It begins with a look" and it indeed began with a look as stage mother Mrs. Taylor made sure her daughter wore the velvet cape in the shade that was needed to make her daughter's eyes stand out.

Liz Taylor fans will be interested to know that this is however not exactly the very first time that a fragrant homage is paid to her purple eyes. Not long ago in fact, last year, designers Bagdley and Mischka launched their perfume Couture which contains a note of violet in reference to those famous eyne, as the whole composition was conceived like a bouquet of olfactory references to their best female friend stars...

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March 17, 2010

Prada Infusion d'Iris Eau de Toilette (2010): Fronted by Lara Stone {New Perfume}


lara-stone-prada-iris.jpg©Prada

Prada is releasing a new variation of its hit fragrance Infusion d'Iris Eau de Parfum initially introduced in 2007. This spring, a flanker is available in a lighter concentration, in eau de toilette. The perfume is meant to evoke "the fresh scent of crumpled linen bed sheets and naked skin." The scent was designed by the same perfumer as for the original composition, Daniela Andrier of Givaudan.

The brand is also taking this opportunity to renew its advertising imagery as the new twist will be fronted by model Lara Stone...

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Parfums de Nicolaï or 3 News for this Spring 2010: l'Eau MiXte, Un Soir en Sicile, New Boutique - Update


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reportage-logo-tss-B.jpg{A reportage about the Nicolaï perfume launch and boutique inauguration has been added to the blog!}

{Un reportage sur l'inauguration de la nouvelle boutique Nicolaï et le lancement de L'Eau Mixte a été ajouté au blog!}



Parfums de Nicolaï have three surprises for perfume aficionados this spring. First, they are going to open a new boutique in the trendy Marais neighborhood in Paris, which will be located in the same street as that of Etat Libre d'Orange...

Continue reading "Parfums de Nicolaï or 3 News for this Spring 2010: l'Eau MiXte, Un Soir en Sicile, New Boutique - Update" »

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