New York based niche perfume house and boutique Aedes de Venustas will launch their fifth opus from May 2015 called Palissandre d'Or...
The brand so far have worked with a fetish ingredient for them - but also for some cultures - Frankincense.
In this upcoming eau de parfum, house founders Karl Bradl and Robert Geistner said they were interested in turning to a new perfumery ingredient described as "precious woods".
One might think that this is an allusion to "oud", however, the creative process was more complex than that, according to the press materials,
The idea for the house's fifth offering was sparked off by the Indian rosewood tree also known as Dalbergia sissoo, which has historically been the primary rosewood species of northern India. Rather than a specific essence, it was the word "palisander", redolent of intricate Oriental carvings and serene Asian groves, which provided the inspiration.
Perfumer Alberto Morillas, famous for crafting many important perfumes, said that he preferred to create the scent of imaginary woods - just like he did for KenzoFlower, which is about a dreamt, abstract poppy flower scent, not even red. He explained,
"I can't make overly figurative fragrances. To me, a perfume is a melody."
The visuals which inspire the fragrance are rich, painted as "A milky light, glowing through wood so polished it turns into silk. A smoldering palette of burnt sienna, lacquered red and molten gold..." They remind you of the aesthetics of the boutique.
The perfumer further commented that the composition is like,
"a 'monochrome' by its color and its density, with a strong signature and very special, bold ingredients. But it's still very wearable and full of facets that can resonate differently on different skin.
Perfume notes are ambrette - a vegetal musk if you will - pink pepper, coriander, nutmeg, cinnamon, a rare sandalwood extract from Sri Lanka, copahu balm, patchouli extract, Virginian cedar, Chinese cedar with its Lapsang Souchong nuance, Alaskan cedar with its Russian leather facet, and finally, Ambrox.
Via Press release
You can also read our Q & A with perfumer Alberto Morillas