The Buzz 
The Scented Salamander Blog A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly. "Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark" Latest Fragrance Reviews Dior Escale à Parati Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue Ferragamo Signorina Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés Jo Malone Plum Blossom Madonna Truth or Dare Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum
Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy 8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y. Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie Fragrance Essays Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes? Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes? Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s
Reviews of New Perfumes Diptyque Eau Rose Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel Sisley Eau d'Ikar Mary Greenwell Plum Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax 6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall The Body Shop White Musk Libertine Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version) Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version) Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche Estée Lauder Wood Mystique Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder Diane Von Furstenberg Diane Bottega Veneta EDP From the Archives Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.
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 Lancôme has introduced a new fresh twist on Magnifique, originally released as an Eau de Parfum in September of 2008. The flanker arrives to stave off the summer heat of 2009, or to be worn more casually during the day or at work. As is usual, a slight reformulation will ensue and here it seems that the composition was made to feel somewhat simpler and more linear while offering more of a thirst-quenching quality...
Continue reading "Freshen Up With Lancome Magnifique Eau de Toilette (2009) {New Perfume}" »
French couturier Christian Lacroix is pursuing his partnership with mass-market giant Avon with the launch of a third fragrance in March 2009 called Absynthe following Rouge and Noir.
Inspired by the mythical drink of poets and bohemian artists living in 19th century Paris, it comes in the midst of a renewal of interest for the jade-colored drink as it is now legally available again. In particular, the US is now allowing its commercial distillation since December 2007...
Continue reading "Christian Lacroix Absynthe by Avon (2009): The Green Faerie Is Back {New Perfume}" »
 MDCI Paris (Marchal Design & Créations Indépendantes), an exclusive niche perfume house founded by Claude Marchal which debuted in 2006 with a catalogue of five perfumes created by well-known noses Pierre Bourdon, Stéphanie Bakouche and Francis Kurkdjian will add three new compositions from early 2009. The house is known in particular for its attention to the aesthetics of the perfume flacon and its desire to offer truly luxurious designs. Their bottles are made of crystal and the stoppers represent antique sculptures made out either of biscuit de Limoges or crystal...
Continue reading "MDCI Paris To Launch 3 New Perfumes: Peche Cardinal...(2009) {New Fragrances}" »
 Jennifer Lopez who single-handedly revived the celebrity fragrance market at the beginning of the 21st century, as it had been left somewhat fallow before her is continuing to expand her franchise. A new scent called Sunkissed Glow will be launched in February 2009 in Europe. It belongs to the unofficial Glow collection which started in 2003 with her debut perfume Glow by J. Lo. This was followed by Miami Glow, Love at First Glow, Glow After Dark. It comes more recently after Deseo and Deseo for Men. I personally own three of those in full sizes and can only say positive things about them, in particular I think that the drydown of Glow is simply superior, one of the very best on the market in terms of evolution and unobtrusive, pleasurable tenacity. Love at First Glow I had to buy after realizing how exquisite it smelled on a paper strip left abandoned (well not quite) on my night stand, several days after it had been sprayed on...
Continue reading "Jennifer Lopez Sunkissed Glow (2009) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}" »
 Serge Lutens has unveiled his latest opus called Nuit de Cellophane (Cellophane Night). The fragrance is scheduled to launch in March of 2009. While the nocturnal thematic will not be unfamiliar to Serge Lutens followers, in particular by those who follow his perfume creations, the insertion of a modernistic material such as cellophane is more of a departure from the general timeless atmosphere pertaining to the Lutensian fragrance universe. I would argue however, that it draws a bridge with his research on materials and textures found in his photographic work. There is also the possibility that cellophane here is used with a double entendre, at once the sign of a romantic gift bought at the florist and an allusion to a thicker nocturnal atmosphere as cellophane is a material privileged by fetishists. Three perfume notes and a more general aesthetic impression are mentioned to offer an initial sketch of the fragrance: "Un osmanthus de Chine
Un jasmin particulier qui aurait volé l'écorce de mandarine ;
le tout sous cellophane"
&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&&
"An osmanthus from China
A special jasmine which would have stolen a mandarin peel
All wrapped in cellophane" (our translation)...
Continue reading "Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane (2009) {New Perfume}" »
 Italian fashion designer Valentino has launched a new perfume which is currently exclusive to Neiman Marcus. Bottled in a strikingly designed diamond-cut flacon, the fragrance is described as a " modern aldehydic floral" with fresh facets...
Continue reading "Valentino Eau de Parfum (2009) {New Perfume}" »
 German fashion brand Joop! continues to develop a dynamic perfume portfolio and will introduce a duo of scents called Thrill for Her and Thrill for Him. The fragrances are licensed to Coty Prestige and were developed with giant perfume company Givaudan...
Continue reading "Joop! Thrill for Her & Him (2009) {New Fragrances}" »
 After the debut signature fragrance of famous Lebanese singer Elissa called Elle d'Elissa, which was launched in 2007, Georges Stahl Parfums will introduce a new perfume-flanker called L'Eau d'Elissa in January of 2009. Like its predecessor, it was composed by perfumer Randa Hammami of Symrise ( L'Instant Magic; Cruel Gardenia; Oud Sensuel; Garden Sensuel)...
Continue reading "Georges Stahl Parfums L'Eau d'Elissa (2009) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}" »
 Berdoues released a new flanker to the original Violettes de Toulouse eau de toilette created in 1936 called Violette Chérie (Darling Violet). It was specifically created to attract a younger clientèle, "In 2008, Violet is not only a fragrance...It takes you to a world of freshness and sensuality...It attracts the young and romantic women looking for softness, pleasure and delights...Pastel colors..."
Continue reading "Berdoues Violette Cherie (2008) {New Perfume}" »
 The German house and fragrance-developing company of Mäurer and Wirtz (Tabac Original, Tosca, Nonchalance, Pussy Deluxe...) have introduced a new duo of scents for designer Otto Kern called Otto Kern Signature Man and Woman. The tag line is: "Make your mark - with Otto Kern Signature Man and Woman." Both compositions are presented as status scents and were inspired by the crest of the brand. The types of persons who should wear these scents are described in detail, "...the allure of Otto Kern Signature Man and Woman fragrances
corresponds to the high-flying, modern and self-confident identity of
their wearers. Convincingly expressing the elite attitude to life, the
new twin fragrances make a clear statement and consistently fulfill the
role of an unobtrusive yet exclusive accessory."...
Continue reading "Maurer & Wirtz Otto Kern Signature Man & Woman (2008) {New Perfumes}" »
 Italian fashion house Byblos has released a new perfume simply titled Essence. It was created by perfumer Christine Nagel. The bottle is by creative agency Sylvie de France (Lolita Lempicka, Fleur de Corail, Givenchy Jardin d'Interdits, Lacoste Dream of Pink, Georges Stahl Elle d'Elissa...). It reminds one a bit of the original modern-retro packaging for Frapin 1270...
Continue reading "Byblos Essence (2008) {New Perfume}" »
 Aquolina which has managed in a relatively short span of time since 2001 in imposing a brand with an iconic appeal thanks in particular to Pink Sugar (2003) has launched a new perfume called Tweety which promises to be as offbeat and attractive as its predecessor thanks to a bold and uncomplicated but not overly simplistic message. Tweety is a fragrance about color and texture but also aspirational feminine identity. The tag line is " Escape the Cage" (translation: escape the crisis; escape the strictures of convention, everyday life and of whatever ties you down. Just spray and fly!) "...Tweety, an eau de toilette inspired by sunshine yellow tones and floating feathers to escape the boundaries and bring you to a world of feminine sensuality."...
Continue reading "Aquolina Tweety (2008): Yellow Is Good {New Perfume}" »
 The at once venerable (est. 1852), upscale and trendy Parisian department store Le Bon Marché Rive Gauche introduced a signature perfume for women called Saint Germain des Prés EDP. (If memory serves me well there is also a men's version spotted earlier this summer which is however not currently showcased on their new e-commerce site.) "Saint Germain des Prés symbolizes this mix of simplicity and expressiveness which characterizes the woman who is curious of everything, sensitive to new trends."
"Saint Germain des Prés symbolise ce mélange de simplicité et d'expression qui caractérise la femme curieuse de tout, sensible aux nouvelles tendances."...
Continue reading "Le Bon Marché Saint Germain des Prés (2008) {New Perfume}" »
{Fragrance review of Manoumalia added here}
Manoumalia is a creation offering an undeniable anthropological flavor in the method that gave birth to it. The latest perfume by brand Les Nez Parfums d'Auteurs (lit. The Noses -- Authors' Perfumes) we now learn (see earlier announcement today) was inspired by the Wallisian olfactory culture of New Caledonia in French Polynesia.
Perfumer Sandrine Videault composed the fragrance but also undertook to do olfactory fieldwork of an ethnographic type to garner information from local sources and meet people who possess "...a deep and sincere olfactory culture" in her view. Videault has been familiar with the culture since she was a child.
Following a TV program on RFO the perfumer was extended an invitation by a Wallisian lady named Malia who offered her to come and explore their local perfume culture. The result is Manoumalia which attempts to stand as an "olfactory picture" of Wallisian cultural habits in the realm of the fifth sense...
Continue reading "Les Nez Parfums d'Auteurs Manoumalia (2009) - Part 2: More Information {New Perfume}" »
 Les Nez Parfums d'Auteurs after The Unicorn Spell, Let Me Play The Lion, L'Antimatière (see review of the latter) and a more recent special open-work project called Turtle Vetiver by Isabelle Doyen (see explanations after the jump) are going to introduce a new perfume in January 2009 baptized Manoumalia. This time, the perfume was created by Sandrine Videault " One of the
last students of Edmond Roudnitska, Sandrine Videault is best known for
her historical fragrances and olfactive shows."... 
Continue reading "Les Nez Parfums d'Auteurs Turtle Vetiver Exercise 1 (2008), Manoumalia (2009) {New Perfumes} - 650 Perfume Samples Giveaway" »
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