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Passion for Perfume - Portraits Archive
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Nicolas Olczyk, thank you for accepting to answer our questions. You are an independent fragrance consultant based in Paris, France, the founder and owner of ROUGE CURACAO, as well as a journalist working for osMoz, an educational and informational website owned by fragrance development company Firmenich.
TSS : How did you become interested in perfumes and when did you know it was going to become your profession? Was there an epiphany, an aha moment or was it more progressive?
Nicolas Olczyk: I guess I fell in love with scents when I was a child. I travelled a lot and particularly to the French West Indies where I got attached to the culture. There, scents are everywhere! Moreover, my uncle had an aromatic company where I was able to improve my olfactory training. I did a master’s degree in chemistry that I completed with a work placement in Grasse. Between 1999 and 2002, I continued to train ‘on the other side of the mirror’ in the sales force for Sephora and then for Estée Lauder Companies. This enriching experience allowed me to understand better customers’ perceptions, but also to have a sharp vision of the whole perfume development process, from the labs to the final client.....
Continue reading "Interview With Nicolas Olczyk, Fragrance Consultant - ROUGE CURACAO {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
Each perfume has a history and a story to tell, some more than others it seems. When we learned that Le Labo Tubéreuse 40 had been worn by Kirsten Dunst to better enter the role of Marie-Antoinette in Sofia Coppola's biopic Marie-Antoinette about the former French queen, we wanted to ask a few questions to the founders of perfume house Le Labo who created the perfume for her. Fabrice Penot (on the left on the picture), one of the two co-founders with Edouard Roschi, answers our questions. TSS: How did it come about that Kirsten Dunst wore this perfume for her role as Marie-Antoinette in the Sofia Coppola's movie?......
Continue reading "Q & A with Fabrice Penot of Le Labo: The Lowdown on Tubéreuse 40 & Kirsten Dunst {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
We are delighted to welcome Christopher Chong, the Creative Director of the Omani perfume house Amouage. This luxurious perfumery brand has succeeded since 1983 in projecting both an image of classic Arabian opulence mixed with the Western tradition as well as in becoming popular in the circuits of niche perfumery where demanding amateurs abound. It is an excellent example of how the guiding principles of luxury and creativity of the prestige and niche markets can coalesce. Amouage has just released their latest creations, Reflection Women and Men. We felt it would be a great time to learn more about the work of the perfume house and in particular that of its Creative Director, Christopher Chong. TSS: First, may I ask you how you became involved with fragrances? Or again, where does this love of fragrances of yours spring from? Christopher Chong: Let me tell you about my funny childhood. My first encounter with perfumes started when I was four. I took one of my mother's perfumes and intoxicated the house with the entire bottle. Everyone was fighting for air. Whereas I was transfixed by the notes dancing around me. It was a magical moment that I hope I will experience again.
Ever since that time, other children wanted to go to the playground, I begged my mother to take me to the perfume hallls in department stores. That was my wonderland filled with magic and spellbinding excitement.
I further developed this love for perfumes by studying humanities at university which gave me an in-depth knowledge of art, music and literature. Also, as a trained opera singer, perfume is the perfect complement. I used to sing the notes. Now, I smell the notes. TSS: -When one talks about the creation of perfumes today, a lot of focus is put on perfumers. A debate has arisen recently around the question of authorship in perfumery with, as you know, different conclusions in Holland and France. Yet at the same time it is quite obvious that perfumery appears more and more to be the result of sophisticated teamwork akin to the level of collective effort found in the making of a movie, from designing the perfume, to composing it, blending it, to packaging it and marketing it etc. What is exactly the role of an artistic director in that enterprise, at least in the way that you see it?......
Continue reading "An Interview With Christopher Chong, Creative Director of Amouage {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
Sylvie Jessua is the founder and owner of Ambregris, a niche, even extreme-niche perfume brand as we like to think of certain labels. For the moment being, the line centers around a unique perfume called Ambre et Diamant Noir (Amber and Black Diamond) that is exclusively sold in one brick and mortar store in Paris at the Ritz Hotel although it is also technically possible to order it through the Ambregris website. She is also the head of a company called Habaco that specializes in the development of luxury and fashion brand franchises. Ambregris appears to be a parallel space dedicated in her life to personal creativity. We started by asking her a couple of questions and ended up asking a few more so we thought it would be best to regroup them here. We first started by asking Sylvie Jessua some questions about the naturalness of the ingredients used, her sources of inspiration for the perfume, and what she calls the process of "fabrication à l'ancienne" that is, the old-fashioned way of creating fragrances. Here are her answers:.....
Continue reading "An Interview With Sylvie Jessua Owner & Artistic Director Of Ambregris {Passion for Perfume -Portraits}" »
The Scented Salamander is delighted to introduce French designer Olivier Durbano. Apart from being a talented jewelry designer, Durbano is also a perfume designer and has developed the concept of a collection of perfumes inspired by his lapidary art called Parfums de Pierres Poèmes (Perfumes of Stones Poems). His first fragrance was called Cristal de Roche (Rock Crystal); he is going to release a second scent in 2007 called Améthyste (Amethyst). These fragrances are part of a project to create 7 different scents inspired by 7 different stones. Symbolism and philosophy preside over his creative process inviting us to look at perfumes in a renewed manner. His fragrances call us back to a state of naturalness and limpid contemplation where things are experienced rather than analyzed. In this manner, his perfumes individually bear no identifying names but contain in each flacon three marbles of the stones by which they were inspired and are colored the same colors as those. The interrelationship of perfumes and stones was intriguing to us. Olivier Durbano has accepted to answer our questions. TSS:
You are known first and foremost as a jeweler or jewelry designer. Are perfumes for you yet another means of expression that stands apart or is it a reflection, an illustration if you will, of your vision of the art of jewelry-making? In other terms would you say that you are attempting to transcribe stones into perfumes or is there something unique to perfume that cannot be expressed by a jewelry piece and which motivates you in seeking out a complementary artistic medium? Why create a perfume and not a piece of embroidered textile for example?
Olivier Durbano:
After I completed my training in architecture, I quickly became involved in the creation of jewelry pieces, especially necklaces, which are already rich with history and symbols. Stones, which were very important during my childhood resurfaced fascinating me with their naturalness, their truth, their imperfections, their power or their symbolism.....
Continue reading "An Interview With Olivier Durbano, Jewelry and Perfume Designer {Passion for Perfume - Portrait}" »
 Sali Oguri is a New York based singer and musician. She is a multi-talented artist who has managed aside from her activities as a composer and singer to dedicate herself to creating a perfume which has generated a cult following. Called Pink Manhattan, it was named after her song album. She is also the popular TV host for a Japanese weekly satellite TV-show called “New Yorkers” that boasts an 11 million-strong fan base. We love her blog Pink Manhattan. Her fluid style of writing and her thoughtful posts about music and perfumes are a treat to read. Sali’s personality comes across as a mix of excess and balance if that makes any sense to you, it does to me. Her view of life is very personal and we wanted to get to know her better, understand a little bit more what makes her tick. We think it is perhaps the fact that she seems to re-work endlessly the material that life is. For The Scented Salamander Sali has accepted to answer questions about her work and ideas as a perfumer and an artist. TSS – Sali, you are a musician, a songwriter and singer, a perfumista who writes regularly on fragrances on your blog Pink Manhattan, and last but not least, a perfumer, the creator of Pink Manhattan. In what order did these interests or rather passions of yours arise in your life?
Sali Oguri - Music first; everything else comes after. What connections do you see between them? Do you think they are part of the same creative process? Writing music and making perfumes can be similar in that they're both about creating compositions with notes. Music differs from perfume in that music consists of many more notes and not just notes but rhythm, which means in music, we also play with time. You can't time the evaporation rate in perfumery yet so there's no rhythm to speak of. Where there's no rhythm and no upbeat, it's static. Where the upbeat is, there is movement and life...
Continue reading "Passion for Perfume - Portrait: An Interview with Sali Oguri" »
The owners and designers of Nez à Nez, Christa Patout and her husband Stéphane Humbert Lucas have opened for a us a little door into their rich universe. Creativity, sensuality, and love seem to be their guiding principles. Let me have the pleasure of introducing them to you.
TSS - Can you tell us how Nez à Nez started and what are the origins of this very recently established house? I am told that a number of perfumes were created by your father, Jean Patout.
Christa Patout with Stéphane Humbert Lucas - The adventure of Nez à Nez started a little more than five years ago. It is first and foremost the story of an encounter...
Continue reading "Passion for Perfume: An Interview with Christa Patout and Stéphane Humbert Lucas of Nez à Nez" »
Andy Tauer is an independent perfumer from Switzerland. He has already made his mark on the world of niche perfumery within a very short period of time by launching three fragrances to connoisseurs' acclaim, Le Maroc pour Elle, L'Air du Désert Marocain, and most recently, Lonestar Memories. Tauer came relatively late to perfumery, yet he did not start his journey on this new path completely unprepared as he is a doctor in chemistry. He is also one of the perfume bloggers that I like and esteem and am glad to have as a neighbor in cyberspace. His always sincere and sometimes very funny posts on his blog, Perfumery, are recommended readings.
Please tune in again tomorrow or the day after tomorrow as I will review his latest release, Lonestar Memories. I am hereby inaugurating a new series on TSS which bears the title Passion for Perfume - Portraits and which will be devoted to offering portraits of people who are passionate about the fifth sense and all things perfumey and aromatic.
TSS - I am struck by how the sense of place as well as your travels are made to be an integral part of your work... Morocco, Texas, not Switzerland. Is this distancing from the familiar necessary for you to create perfumes? [Note: In a way, I am reminded of the quest for light and colors by painters like Van Gogh or Gauguin -- northerners travelling to the south or to exotic lands for inspiration.]
Andy Tauer - Not really, part of my inspiration is based very much on my immediate surroundings and is nourished by jogging trips in the woods nearby for instance. Of course, the exotic ambiance of the uncommon helps trigger associations and sometimes is finally closer in memories than the settings of everyday...
Continue reading "Passion for Perfume: A Portrait of Perfumer Andy Tauer" »
Passion for Perfume - Portraits Archive
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bob on
Gai Mattiolo That's Amore Tropical Paradise Tahitian Vanilla & Tahitian Water (2010) {New Perfumes}
: wow, look at that, I'm already drooling, great color, looks superb. how ...
karin on
Parfums de Nicolaï or 3 News for this Spring 2010: l'Eau MiXte, Un Soir en Sicile, New Boutique - Update
: Would love to read an announcement that PdN has updated their website. ...
Trometter on
Are You in the Mood for Oud Aromania? {Trend Alert} + Oud Timeline {Sniffing Suggestions}
: You own a very interesting blog covering lots of topics I am ...
Lucy on
The Popularity of Clover Aroma and L.T. Piver Trèfle Incarnat in Literature and Perfume since the 19th Century - Part 1 {Scented Thoughts (on St Patrick's Day)}
: Wonderful post! I wish there were more clover scents available at this ...
Ruth Ann on
Le De by Givenchy (1957-2007) {Perfume Review & Musings} {New Fragrance}
: I too was so excited that Le De was again available! But, ...
mario on
Like This, Tilda Swinton by Etat Libre d'Orange (2010): Aphrodisiac Pumpkin {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}
: Thank you for an excellent back ground on this fragrance.
Lucy on
The Pure White Trend in Fragrances: A Return to Fundamentals {Trend Alert}
: Yes, I agree this is a trend, and I am very much ...
sylvia r. on
Yves Rocher Rose Ispahan {Perfume Review In A Nutshell} {Smell-The-Roses-Till-Valentine's Day Challenge - Day 10}
: Desperate for Rose Ispahan - got it as part of a mini-set. ...
Mitsouko on
EOS for Him & Her (2009): Beer-Based Carbon-Neutral Fragrance Smells of the Future {New Perfumes} {Fragrance News}
: Oh, brilliant! I can't wait to smell like waste and rancid beer! ...
Mitsouko on
In Canada, Perfume Intolerance Mounts in Public Spaces, Honolulu Agrees and The Stinky Bus Trope in Pop Culture {The 5th Sense in the News}
: If there is one thing that I find more obnoxious than stench ...
Linda on
The Quest for The Civet Oil {Ask Marie-Helene & the Readers}
: I forgot to put the anti-spam number in my post so here ...
Linda on
The Quest for The Civet Oil {Ask Marie-Helene & the Readers}
: I too have been searching for the Civet Oil I bought in ...
Theresa on
Kim Kardashian Perfume (2010) {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume}
: I smelled the fragrance in Sephora's and I was quite shocked how ...
Manhattan on
Beyonce Heat (2010) {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
: Just purchased this Fragrance today in Manhattan, and I have to say ...
ruby on
Dior Escale à Portofino (2008) {Perfume Review}
: I have brought a bottle for my birthday last year and I ...
- Oriens by Van Cleef & Arpels (2010): Not Just Another Light Perfume {Perfume Review and Musings}
- Parfumerie Générale Gardénia Grand Soir, Bois Naufragé (2010) {New Perfumes}
- Gai Mattiolo That's Amore Tropical Paradise Tahitian Vanilla & Tahitian Water (2010) {New Perfumes}
- Clarins Eau des Jardins (2010): Wear it in Good Health {New Perfume}
- In Memoriam Perfumer Béatrice Piquet (1963-2010): Condolences Space Open
- Blugirl Jus No.1 (2010) {New Perfume}
- John Varvatos Artisan Black (2010) {New Perfume} {Men's Cologne}
- Elizabeth Taylor Violet Eyes by Elizabeth Arden (2010): It Begins with a Look {New Perfume} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- The Popularity of Clover Aroma and L.T. Piver Trèfle Incarnat in Literature and Perfume since the 19th Century - Part 1 {Scented Thoughts (on St Patrick's Day)}
- Prada Infusion d'Iris Eau de Toilette (2010): Fronted by Lara Stone {New Perfume}
- Parfums de Nicolaï or 3 News for this Spring 2010: l'Eau MiXte, Un Soir en Sicile, New Boutique - Update
- Guerlain Release Animated Film for Flora Nymphea {Perfume Images & Ads}
- Humiecki & Graef Bosque (2010): Content in the Company of the Gods {New Perfume}
- Two Scented Toilet Paper Commercials in the Style of Jacques Demy {Perfume Images & Ads}
- Like This, Tilda Swinton by Etat Libre d'Orange (2010): Aphrodisiac Pumpkin {Perfume Review} {Celebrity Fragrance}
- The Pure White Trend in Fragrances: A Return to Fundamentals {Trend Alert}
- Betty Barclay Pure Style (2010) {New Perfume}
- Cowboy-Boot Maker Back at the Ranch Mixes Beauty, Perfume & Fashion Senses {Fashion Notes}
- Viktor & Rolf Order Cake for Flowerbomb's 5th Anniversary at Hotel Le Meurice {Fragrance News}
- Persistent Rumor: Lagerfeld to be Replaced by Elbaz at Chanel {Fashion Notes}
- Drink Tea with Karl, Jean Paul, Naomi etc. {Fashion Notes}
- Demeter Releases Clover Fragrance for St Patrick's Day (2010)
- Lolita Lempicka Eau du Désir (2010): Eau de Cologne & Extrait in One...Who Knew? {New Perfume}
- Paco Rabanne to Launch Feminine Counterpart to 1 Million, with Dree Hemingway
- Etat Libre d'Orange Creates Advertising Visual for Tilda Swinton Scent {Perfume Ads} {Fragrance News}
- Narciso Rodriguez Go Iridescent (2010) {New Perfumes}
- Hermes Voyage (2010): Creativity Pause or A Voyage along Traditional Trails {Perfume Review & Musings}
- It's Official, Madonna will Launch a Material Girl Fragrance in 2011 {Fragrance News} {Celebrity Perfume}
- Jean Paul Goude Talks about the Behind-The-Scenes of Chance Eau Tendre
- Chanel Calls Chance Eau Tendre its Third Generation of the Chance Fragrance Family (2010) {New Perfume}
- You can Win a Kenzoki Set on Twitter until March 15, 2010 {Contests & Giveaways}
- Kenzo Kenzoki Perfumed Beneficial Waters/Eaux Parfumées Bienfaitrices Splash, Fizz, Shh, MMM (2010) {New Perfumes} {Beauty & Olfaction}
- Hanae Mori Sustain Their Efforts in Sustainable Perfumery with No2 (2010) {New Perfume}
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