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Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.

Makeup Archive

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July 13, 2010

2010 Beach Essentials & Summer Inspiration {Beauty Notes}


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Need some ideas to perfect your beauty routine on the beach? First take a look at 8 great shopping suggestions from the Daily Makeover experts -- don't miss the nifty beauty bag with an incorporated ice pack! Then read "5 Sneaky Ways to Look Better on the Beach." Finally, want to catch up on celebrity beauty makeovers and get some inspiration to change your look this summer? You can read about "Adrienne Bailon's Bold Hair Makeover."

Keep reading after the jump to view the slideshow and read the articles....

Continue reading "2010 Beach Essentials & Summer Inspiration {Beauty Notes}" »

June 29, 2010

Kat Von D Adora (2010): Scent and Makeup Interconnection {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume} {Beauty Notes}


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Tattoo artist and TV reality celebrity Kat Von D has released her third fragrance following up on Saint and Sinner last year. It's called Adora and is accompanied by a limited-edition makeup collection comprising True Romance Eyeshadow Palette - Adora and Adora Painted Love Lipstick.

The colors look a bit dangerous, especially in the eyeshadow pan, and feel like they would be great for Halloween (I know it's a bit early to think about that but that's what came to my mind gazing at the vampy, if not vampirish tints.

About the perfume:

"Adora means "Beloved One" in Latin. For Kat, Adora reflects the next chapter in her personal evolution--an introspective renaissance discovered through deep layers, stories, and scars. She's a romantic soul with an edgy exterior. Adora is a sensual and passionate perfume journey--unexpected and provocative.This scent reveals a stirring glimpse into an enigmatic life...tortured, beautiful, and brutally honest. "....

Continue reading "Kat Von D Adora (2010): Scent and Makeup Interconnection {New Fragrance} {Celebrity Perfume} {Beauty Notes}" »

June 21, 2010

Boardroom Vs. Bedroom Makeup {Beauty Notes}

Other hot beauty tips this week from the ladies over at The Daily Makeover.

Boardroom Vs. Bedroom Makeup

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Raychel Wade is a professional makeup artist and official La Prairie Colour Ambassador. She was voted 'Best Makeup Consultant' in New York Magazine's "Best of New York" and her practical makeup tips have been featured on the pages of Allure, InStyle, Cosmopolitan, Real Simple, Lucky, Self, Fitness, Brides and New York Magazine's annual Family and Wedding guides.





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Photo: © Henry S. Dziekan III/Getty Images

I think it is important to look and feel your best at all times, and as a professional makeup artist, I swear by the power of a pretty lip and eye-opening lashes--for the boardroom AND the bedroom. It's just a matter of intensity, color choice and application for looking office-appropriate vs. out on the town. Remember that expression "dress for the job you want, not the job you have?" That applies to your fashion AND makeup looks.

The key to beautiful work makeup is making the most out of a few key products. Start by getting your skin even with a touch of La Prairie's Anti-Aging Concealer SPF 20--dot wherever the skin appears uneven or has an imperfection, then blend in. Follow with a tinted moisturizer like Elizabeth Arden's Sheer Lights Illuminating Tinted Moisturizer. Once your skin is even and glowing, apply a dusting of a matte bronzer (MAC and Bobbi Brown are two of my favorites) to your cheeks and temples, and then finish your cheeks with an easy cream blush like Nars in Penny Lane. All of these products are shimmer-free which is important in the office, as they keep you looking fresh--under often unflattering office lighting--without drawing unnecessary attention to yourself.

Continue reading "Boardroom Vs. Bedroom Makeup {Beauty Notes}" »

January 29, 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier Eyes & Nails for Spring Summer 2010 {Fashion Notes - Backtage Beauty}


Jean Paul Gaultier Spring Summer Haute Couture collection for 2010 was truly haute-couture in the sense that it made you dream. It was extravagant, it affirmed the reign of fantasy and imagination over practical mundane limitations. It refused to be no-nonsense. The fantasy Hollywood adventure-movie strain was perceptible with inspiration seemingly taken from movies like Pirates of the Caribbean, Indiana Jones and Avatar. I thought there was also inspiration culled from outfits made out of chocolate for the Salon du Chocolat. So I am starting with the details instead of looking at the ensemble, i.e. the outfits but you are benefiting from my personal fascination for the colors that were used on the models' eyelids and the nail-rings that capped the real nails.

Here is a selection of looks of eye makeup and colors from the backstage area. Makeup artist was Tom Pecheux using Mac cosmetics..

Continue reading "Jean Paul Gaultier Eyes & Nails for Spring Summer 2010 {Fashion Notes - Backtage Beauty}" »

September 28, 2009

The Deets on Kherington Payne's Look at The Fame Premiere in L.A. {Beauty Notes} {Makeup} {Celebrity Beauty}


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We got the insider's scoop from Lancôme's team about actress Kherington Payne's makeup routine for the red-carpet premiere of the remake of one of the 80s defining film, Fame, in Los Angeles on September 23, 2009. Signed by makeup artist Vanessa Scali, The effect is described as "...the rising star's graphic, smokey eye, pretty golden skin and shimmery nude mouth."

There was a definite cat-eye impression with as much emphasis on line than on hair (lashes) to achieve the style. Payne attended the event in the evening but managed to present a sun-kissed glow under the flashlights. No details on the hairdo (and hair jewelry), which looked like a cross between a lacquered bouffant from the sixties and an antique Greek up-do, all with 21st century glam hair extensions. The Greek reference was echoed by her tunic-like dress.

"To start, Vanessa prepped the skin with Lancôme's Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate, which kept Kherington's skin fresh in the 100 degree heat. Lancôme's Effacernes in Light Bisque -Vanessa's favorite formula--was dabbed underneath the eyes. Bobbi Brown's Foundation Stick was applied on select areas with a small brush and blended with the fingers. Lancôme's Blush Subtil in Sheer Amourose delivered a glowy look and was accented with Giorgio Armani Beauty's Fluid Sheer #2 on the cheek and brow bones. A dusting of Lancôme's Photôgenic Sheer Loose Powder, just on the T-zone."...

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Continue reading "The Deets on Kherington Payne's Look at The Fame Premiere in L.A. {Beauty Notes} {Makeup} {Celebrity Beauty}" »

September 24, 2009

Chanel Les Noirs Obscurs Mini Movie {Beauty Images & Ads} -- Makeup Review




The black-soot look is great on model Malgosia Bela, but it is really hard to pull off outside of the spotlights (and Halloween revelry). To me, there is always a big distinction to be made between makeup that looks good in front of a camera in a studio with all the sources of light and angles that one can control, and a versatile street makeup that has to work effortlessly. Bela has big, clear, even transparent blue/green eyes and a pale complexion so it counterbalances the black pigments. The lip color here looks good because it is layered with some red plum in it. I was surprised to see how the lipsticks in Les Noirs Obscurs were going for some uncompromisingly dull-ish shades (Maniac, Hysteria, Obscure). It takes a whole different kind of attitude to wear those...

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Continue reading "Chanel Les Noirs Obscurs Mini Movie {Beauty Images & Ads} -- Makeup Review" »

September 14, 2009

Chris Benz Spring 2010 at Mercedez-Benz New York Fashion Week {Beauty & Fashion Notes - Backstage Beauty}

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Chris Benz Spring 2010


chris-benz-lancome.jpgFor the makeup Chris asked Daniel [Martin] to create a sun-kissed, fresh look. He wanted a healthy skin and prominent lip.

Daniel gave the models a natural glow by applying Généfique Activating Skin Concentrate to clean skin followed by Généfique Eye to open up and brighten the eye area. The complexion was perfectly even and polished. Shu Uemura Nobara Foundation was applied to even out the skin tone and Lancôme Ageless Mineral Transluscent powder was dusted over the entire face. Pop 'n Cheeks in Coral Flirt was used as a highlighter and lightly applied to the cheekbones near the temple for just a hint of color. To define the eyes, Daniel smudged Le Crayon Khôl in black coffee on the upper and lower lash lines. Several coats of Hypnôse Mascara in black were applied for thick, black lashes...

Continue reading "Chris Benz Spring 2010 at Mercedez-Benz New York Fashion Week {Beauty & Fashion Notes - Backstage Beauty}" »

Fred Farrugia's New Makeup Line, Design by Ora Ito {Beauty Notes} {New Beauty Products}

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fred-farrugia.jpgFred Farrugia is the ex-international artistic director for makeup for Lancôme and the inventor, amongst others, of the Juicy tubes. He just launched his own line of makeup at Sephora France, developing a nomadic concept of 104 stackable palettes of colors that can be easily carried in your bag and more originally, used without a mirror thanks to the (amazing) textures. One of the ideas behind the line is that this is a collection you can use even if you know more about finger-painting from your days in day-care and kindergarten than about makeup.

The textures may be called easy now but it took Farrugia five years to create the products in his apartment. (By the way, he is the brother of comic French TV personality Dominique Farrugia.) His collaborator on the project is designer Ora-Ito who conceived the stackables which are simple, functional elongated palettes that just need to be clipped on, unclipped, stacked at will. Ora-Ito is also the thinking head behind the new beautiful flacon for the latest perfume by Guerlain, Idylle (it looks better in reality than on a picture)....

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Continue reading "Fred Farrugia's New Makeup Line, Design by Ora Ito {Beauty Notes} {New Beauty Products}" »

September 19, 2008

Beauty Reads - Latest Posts

Beauty-Salamander-Logo.jpgHere are our latest posts on beauty, from most recent to older:

A review of Dior Ultra-Gloss Reflect Lip Gloss in Lurex Plum from Dandy Lady

A review of Patyka Organic Face Scrub - Gommage Visage Bio: How Organic Is It?

Check out Bill Cunnigham's reportage on shoes at Fashion Week in NYC: Bags Are So Out, Shoes Are So In

July 10, 2008

Yves Saint Laurent New African Colors Collection {Beauty Notes - Makeup}

Africa-Colors.jpgAfrica is hot this summer as Yves Saint Laurent launches a new limited-edition collection of makeup colors inspired by the dark and colorful continent.

Here are our picks for noteworthy products from the 2008 YSL Summer Look: Soleil d'Afrique, Palette Couleurs d'Afrique, Voile de Soleil, and the Everlong Mascara Waterproof. Read more about them on Beauty And The Salamander and go for the glow!...

April 1, 2008

Sally Hansen Natural Beauty: A New Mineral Makeup Line & More {Beauty Notes - News}

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Coty will launch a new line of makeup colors in May of 2008 under the Sally Hansen label called Natural Beauty.  It is a follow-up strategic move after the success of the 16-sku Lip Lab lipstick line.

The line was inspired by makeup artist Carmindy from the Discovery Channel popular fashion show, What Not To Wear. She collaborated on the project and will use them on her show.....

Continue reading "Sally Hansen Natural Beauty: A New Mineral Makeup Line & More {Beauty Notes - News}" »

February 24, 2008

Mac Fafi Collection: Lips & A Bit of Cheek, The Reviews Part 1 {Beauty Notes & Reviews}

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The new Fafi collection by Mac Cosmetics, which we made an announcement about earlier (see picture of collection), is loaded with popular culture references and as usual is chock-full of colors. The tints in fact are much more vivid than appear on the pictures and then again some of them, like the fluo pink color in the tube Totally It, look all reasonable once applied.

Cultural Notes: Origins of the Fafinettes

The universe of the collection is that of Fafi, a French artist and cartoonist who draws her initial inspiration from intersecting cultural traditions where characters present a mix of  traits usually found separately as characteristic of babies, little kids or gamins in the French tradition, and sexually mature adults. She herself simply likes to stress that she draws her inspiration from her friends and girls she observes on the street. It was her dream to have her drawings on makeup packaging and they look great on the Mac line. One would have just wished that there were more of them on the lipstick cases for example instead of the same character being repeated over and over.

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 Soonie's Rose by Margaret Keane

One can identify in her universe a trend deriving from the prevalent Kawaisa (cuteness) culture in Japan with its references to the Anime and Manga aesthetics but also closer to home for Fafi, the Poulbot sub-culture in France. Finally coming full circle one discovers the influence of the Big-Eye Movement born in the USA, an expression made popular by Wayne Hemingway in his book Just Above The Mantelpiece: Mass-Market Masterpieces. In it he attributes the birth of this inspiration to Margaret (and Walter as a pseudo) Keane in North Beach San Francisco California at the end of the 1950s. However, it must be stressed that Poulbot already drew gamins with oversized eyes. Keane's "large-eyed waif" paintings were beloved by actress Joan Crawford who collected them and had one made of her for decorating her home. Big eyes are typical of this cultural sensitivity, so much so that in Japan young women try to imitate the enormous eyes of Animes by wearing lenses that dilate the pupils and make the eyes seem more like tea saucers, an ideal of beauty that can be more easily achieved with a white pencil liner (see Fafi: Fascinating: Snake-eyes Matte White Eye Khol cf. press release)....

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Fafi street art

Continue reading "Mac Fafi Collection: Lips & A Bit of Cheek, The Reviews Part 1 {Beauty Notes & Reviews}" »

Makeup Archive

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Cat on Bien-Être Eau de Cologne à la Fleur d'Oranger (2011) {New Fragrance} : I MUST have this! I'm in Australia. Can I order it online?

Elcor on Dior Escale à Parati (2012): The Smell of Success {New Fragrance} {Short Perfume Review} : And have you seen Dior's latest promotional video feat. Depeche Mode music? ...

Vasily on Maison Martin Margiela Replica (2012) {New Perfume} : So basically they're replicating what Christopher Brosius has been doing for years ...

monique bondoin on Estee Lauder Youth-Dew Goes Retro Style: New Packaging = Updated Scent? {Fragrance News} {Perfume Review} : Where can I buy Youth dew in the classic blue bottle ? ...

Sharty on Musk Hall of Fame: A List of the Best &/or Most Talked About Musk Perfumes {Perfume List} {Perfume Short (Reviews)} : Hi just ran across your site. I found a store in the ...

DomesticGoblin on Fragrance News: More on Aura by Thierry Mugler : Did you manage to get your hands on this? I really want ...

Froufrou La Negre on Street Style: What Gendarmes Wear on May Day in Paris {Fashion Notes} : Mimi, that's what the French riot police wear EVERY day.

Mandy Aftel on Aftelier Sepia (2012): Like a Remembrance of Things Past Set in Gold Country {New Perfume} {Green Products} : Thank you so much Marie-Helene, I look forward to your review! - ...

emile edecent on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : Really Kiehls???... i am guessing they must pay a royalty to le ...

dan fry on Kiehls Launch New Aromatic Blends Collection of 4 (2012) {New Perfumes} : wow, can't believe that Kiehl's would knock off LeLabo so exactly!! so ...

D.W.R. on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : Back in 1979 or so my favourite favourite scent which I wore ...

Susan on Zara Rosa Bulgara with Notes on Flor de Azahar, Lirio de Agua (2008) {Perfume Review} {New Fragrances} {Rose Notebook} : I love Zara's Lirio De Agua. I have looked and looked for ...

Flor on Yves Rocher Ode à L'Amour Passionnément! (2008) {New Perfume} : Quisiera saber si tiene el mismo olor de Ode á l'amour (digamos ...

Susan in Florida on Long Lost Crabtree & Evelyn Fragrance: Help Please {Ask The Readers} : While searching the web yet again looking for my long lost love, ...

karen on "Flanker" {Perfume Vocabulary} : I love these vocabulary posts.

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