The Quest for The Civet Oil {Ask Marie-Helene & the Readers}
"Hi,
Back in the early to mid 1970's, I was given a rather small bottle of
civet oil. It was black and I believe dimpled in the center and a
small screw on cap with an applicator wand, could you tell me who
made that fragrance?
Thank you.
Peter, Block Island, Rhode Island."..........
Hi Peter,
I have seen repeated, even obsessive mentions of a civet oil from the 1970s by Alyssa Ashley. It also appeared under the Houbigant label. One testimonial indicates it was bottled in a little black bottle with an eye logo on it and you can find it also in a transparent bottle. It is discontinued and some people are looking really hard for it
Since it is very difficult to find (in oil concentration), you might want to look also for alternatives. Someone suggested Dusty Rose Perfumery which makes a copy of the Alyssa Ashley Civet Oil. You can also find some real civet tincture as well as synthetic civet at The Mystic Corner and at La Via del Profumo (natural tincture).
Finally, as a fragrance replacement that might potentially satisfy you, I recommend Oropuro by Laura Tonatto which can be characterized as a fairly straight-up civet perfume (we need to have the equivalent of the term "soliflore" for animalic notes -- how about a "sola-bestia"?); I find the Eau de Parfum version to be more civet-y than the extract.
Orange Spice by Creed is a great civet perfume, very pure, old-world, with spicy and citrus-y nuances. Kouros by Yves Saint Laurent, which was mentioned by a reader, I find less purely delineated as a civet perfume than the Creed one and certainly less elegant, but if you like your civet to be dirty, on the rancid side with hints of unwashed oily hair, that's the one to get.
Best,
-- Marie-Helene
(Image source: picture can be purchased at Munk10)
Previous Posts in Ask Marie-Helene:
Ombre Libertine by Parfumerie Contemporaine
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Comments
I am glad I found Civet here. Yes, 1970-something and loved it better than regular Jovan musks.
Now, how about Amergris and another called Gauntlet, I think....reminded me of strong crushed sunflowers or similar in color and smell; oily too, or maybe that was the ambergris. Ah, the old favorites.
Posted by: Debra | March 24, 2008
Have any idea about a perfume called Gambit, marketed in the 1970's.
Also, regarding the above - the eternal quest for Civet Oil, By Houbigant: I remember purchasing it at JC Penneys in Washington state and the bottle was black with a silver cap and the oil was sweet-musky and it came with a roller, not an applicator stick.
Posted by: Debra Roberts | April 2, 2008
Yet another here with very fond memories of Civet by Alyssa Ashley. I bought mine at an Osco drugstore where it was displayed as part of a trio of fragrances Musk, Ambergris, and Civet. It was in the round black bottle. At the time, I believe it reminded me of my grandmother's Avon Persian Wood cream sachet, another discontinued fragrance. That is what came to mind. I loved Civet and was often asked what it was, with a very puzzled look when I replied. No one had even actually heard of a "civet", and neither had I. I would love to find it again.
Posted by: Cynthia | April 6, 2008
Marie-Helene,
I just aquired some Vintage Houbigant Civet Spray! Is it possible for you to contact me at my email? I would like to get your opinion of it, if possible. I am the same Cynthia that posted to this thread in April.
Cynthia
Posted by: Cynthia | August 1, 2008