Monthly Archives from March 2006

The Buzz

The Buzz

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The Scented Salamander Blog

A Culture & Beauty Blog: from Olfaction to Imagination in Perfumes, Movies, Beauty Products, Food, Literature, & Fashion, Mostly.

"Perfumes' & movies' common point: you smell and watch them better in the dark"

Latest Fragrance Reviews

Dior Escale à Parati

 

Prada Infusion d'Iris EDP Absolue

Ferragamo Signorina

Thierry Mugler Miroir des Majestés

Jo Malone Plum Blossom

Madonna Truth or Dare

Roberto Cavalli Eau de Parfum

Carolina Herrera 212 Sexy

8 Best Perfumes to Herald Spring

Stella McCartney L.I.L.Y.

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Going Back to the Purer Language of Perfumery

Guerlain Parfum Initial L'Eau: Un Langage Plus Pur pour la Parfumerie

Fragrance Essays

Perfumes & Candies are Kissing Cousins: Anis de Flavigny & Guerlain Anisia Bella

Jicky, The Ultimate Aphrodisiac for Both Sexes?

Jicky, L'aphrodisiaque ultime pour les deux sexes?

Best Rose Fragrances for Valentine's Day: The 2012 Edition

How I Think about Perfume when I Review Them: a Practical-Theoretical Outlook on the Perfume Shopping Culture

Bint el Sudan, The Other, African Chanel No.5 - Interview with Nick Evans of IFF

Smelling Tommy Girl Now: When the 1990s Smell Like The 1940s

White Accords in Perfumery: So Long The 70s

Liberace Wore Perfume, So What? Homosexuality as Given Away by an Indiscreet Fragrance Trail in the 50s

Reviews of New Perfumes

Diptyque Eau Rose

Isabel Derroisné Eclat Eternel

Sisley Eau d'Ikar

Mary Greenwell Plum

Parfum d'Empire Azemour Les Orangers

L'Artisan Parfumeur Batucada

Les Parfums de Rosine Glam Rose

Clinique Aromatics Elixir Perfumer's Reserve

Prada No.11 Cuir Styrax

6 New Celebrity Fragrances to Try Out this Fall

The Body Shop White Musk Libertine

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (English Version)

Cartier L'Heure Convoitée (French Version)

Karl Lagerfeld Karleidoscope

Maître Parfumeur et Gantier Cuir Fétiche

Estée Lauder Wood Mystique

Thierry Mugler Angel with Bitter Cocoa Powder

Diane Von Furstenberg Diane

Bottega Veneta EDP

From the Archives

Bath & Body Works Warm Vanilla Sugar: An Euro-American Curio

Reviews of Past Fragrance Launches

First Impressions on the Thierry Mugler Coffret Based on the Novel by Süskind.



Acqua di Sale by Profumum {Perfume Review & Musings}

AcquadiSale.jpg
Acqua di Sale (Salt Water), by upscale Italian niche perfume house Profumum Roma is like the promise offered by those glass bottles with thick bottoms that contain a fishermen’s boat inside their bellies. Except that through the magic of perfume we are able, not just to daydream of sea voyages looking at a trinket, but also enter inside its universe and suddenly find ourselves in a Mediterranean cove on a beach between the dark blue sea and a rocky cliff shaded by intricate pine trees. There we can imagine ourselves resting, lulled by the rote of the sea while inhaling the brackish air......

PineTrees_Sea.png

 

The main inspiration for the perfume seems to have been to combine marine notes with coniferous ones. This creates the mental backdrop for a classical Mediterranean landscape by the sea and translates into a sophisticated, very elegant, and unusual marine scent with an assertive personality. It is beautiful, if not pretty, as beauty seems to stand closer to ugliness than prettiness and as some of the nuances of the scent could feel to offer too much personality.

The perfume starts with a pale yellow alcoholic, then briny, sea-spray impressions with aromatic notes of, to my nose, vetiver, eucalyptus, juniper berries, thyme, and actually, myrtle. It is herbal at first, suggesting a Chartreuse liqueur, then segues into an intense coniferous accord with resinous, sappy, sticky nuances of pine resin. Little waves seem to come lick the foot of a pine tree or alternatively one starts visualizing pinecones floating on the foam of the sea., or yet again, one is promenading in a coniferous forest near a fishermen’s village. There are undertones of salty fish sauce or "nuoc mam" made of fermented fish and commonly used in Southeast Asian cuisine. This undertone is a bit daring, but add charm to the fragrance, making it smell more real. It feels a little bit like it is the Bandit of the marine scents, only slightly more masculine (it is a unisex fragrance in fact.)

After that, the scent softens down evoking a subtle beach-y aroma, that of human skin touched by the elements: the wind, the sand, and salt water on a sunny day. At the same time, it feels as if a person’s hands would have been playing with pine cones and been stained by pine resin. Underneath it all, there is an undercurrent of sweet herbaceous notes, maybe angelica, with nuances of citronella and bitter almonds.

The dry-down is woody, evoking wood furniture freshly polished with encaustic, maybe an old captain’s wood chest painted and engraved with maritime scenes salvaged and treasured in a neat little house by the sea or alternatively, the dark wood-panelled walls of a rich mansion.

The longer dry-down is cedar-y, a bit vanillic, and musky. I think that the musk could be more interesting, as it smells a bit too much to my nose of a fairly common type of white musk, yet I understand also that it allows to create a clean skin smell effect, as if one had freshly emerged from the sea.

The next day, the musky scent lingers on, revealing floral overtones. 

Notes are: aroma of salt on the skin, myrtle, cedarwood, marine algae

Acqua di Sale is available in Profumum boutiques and in the US, at Luckyscent, $190 for 100 ml.

 

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