The Buzz

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My 2009 Halloween Shopping List

Marilyn Miglin Fo-Ti-Tieng

The Body Shop Love Etc.

Fall Fragrances: Cornucopia of Dark Fruits

L'Occitane Labdanum de Séville, Mimosa de l'Estérel

Robert Piguet Futur

Kate Moss Vintage

Frapin L'Humaniste

Patriotic Bestseller Perfumes: Discuss

Faguenat, Faganat...Fug?

Sniffing Rich Orientals in Paris

L'Artisan Parfumeur Havana Vanille

Dolce & Gabbana Rose The One

Guerlain Idylle - Part 1

Guerlain Idylle - Part 2

Kat Von D Saint & Sinner

Calvin Klein CK Free for Men

Mariah Carey Forever

WienerBlut Klubwasser

Prada L'Eau Ambrée

Serge Lutens Fille en Aiguilles

Britney Spears Circus Fantasy

Yves Saint Laurent Parisienne

Idole d'Armani

Guerlain Aqua Allegoria Tiaré-Blossom, Cherry Blossom

Hermès Eau d'Orange Verte, Eau de Pamplemousse Rose, Eau de Gentiane Blanche

Parfums de Nicolaï Weekend à Deauville

Serge Lutens Fourreau Noir

Essential Faith

Penhaligon's Anthology: Eau de Verveine, Extract of Limes, Gardenia, Night Scented Stock

Mac Naked Honey & Africanimal

Chopard Cascade

Lancôme Hypnôse Senses

Juliette Has a Gun Midnight Oud

Narciso Rodriguez Essence

Queen Latifah Queen

Benefit Laugh With Me LeeLee, There's Something About Sofia, My Place Or Yours Gina

The Body Shop White Musk White Hot Summer

Rochas Eau Sensuelle

L'Artisan Parfumeur Côte d'Amour

Chloe Eau de Parfum

Guerlain Les Fleurs du Guildo: An Early 19th Century Precursor of Marine Scents

Lush Vanillary

Byredo Bal d'Afrique

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 1

Zadig & Voltaire Tome 1 La Pureté - Part 2

Guerlain Muguet

Guerlain Muguet (en français)

Spring Notes: Lily of the Valley & Dior

Chanel Cristalle Eau Verte

Christian Dior Escale à Pondichéry

Frédéric Malle Géranium pour Monsieur

Gobin-Daudé Sous Le Buis

Roger et Gallet Bois d'Orange

Montale Patchouli Leaves

Stetson All American

Stephen Jones by Comme des Garçons

Givenchy Harvest 2008: Ange ou Démon Jasmin Sambac, Amarige Ylang Ylang, Very Irresistible Rose Damascena, Organza Fleur d'Oranger

Yves Saint Laurent La Nuit de l'Homme

Yves Saint Laurent l'Homme

The Sex Factor in Men's Fragrances

Nina Ricci Love by Nina

Hermès Kelly Calèche EDP

Annick Goutal Un Matin d'Orage

Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire

Serge Lutens Nuit de Cellophane

Parfums MDCI Péché Cardinal

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 1

Hermès Vanille Galante - Part 2


April 2006 Archive

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April 24, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum & Oil by Maurice Roucel at Frederic Malle, Editions de Parfums

muscravageur.jpg Musc Ravageur, the edp and the oil, were created by perfumer Maurice Roucel in 2000 and 2003, respectively. Roucel is known for his creations of both luxury and niche scents such as Hermès 24 Faubourg, Guerlain L'Instant, Donna Karan Be Delicious, Serge Lutens Iris Silver Mist, and Lolita Lempicka L, among others.

Musc Ravageur comes preceded by its reputation as Malle's best-seller. The perfume's name in French points to an act of seduction verging on destruction. Maurice Roucel, we are told by Editions de Parfums, thought of it as an "act of seduction and generosity." The perfumer confesses a predilection for warm, sensual scents and Musc Ravageur epitomizes those very qualities...


Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Musc Ravageur Eau de Parfum & Oil by Maurice Roucel at Frederic Malle, Editions de Parfums" »

April 25, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens

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Un Bois Vanille, created in 2003, is one of the more interesting variations on vanilla that I know of and one of the few fragrances in the Serge Lutens line that seems to be willing to compromise with the idea of being, possibly, a perfume to be worn --- how prosaic, I know. The common man, the one that is looking for mere empathy in a juice is glad to have found a more self-effacing Lutens perfume.

I find a most illuminating quote by Lutens on an unofficial website dedicated to him, Autour de Serge, the gist of it being that, what truly matters to the Master is not the fragrance per say that you happen to be wearing, but the way you wear it (my emphasis). In his mind, style and representations of the perfume may supersede the very contents of the perfume; how unusually desincarnated a thought for a perfumer, one may think...


 

Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Un Bois Vanille by Serge Lutens" »

The Fifth Sense in the News: Olfactory Movies Coming Soon To Your Home



By the end of the year 2006, the French might be able to both view and smell olfactory movies at home thanks to a technology developed by AC2i. Michel Pozzo and his team are working on a small-sized scent diffuser operated with batteries and rechargeable batteries that will be able to diffuse scents controlled by codes from a DVD. To each scent would correspond a different code. These codes would be read by the diffuser through the Wi-Fi. This diffuser will cost approximately 120 Euros.

Since April 22, 2006, the Japanese are able to watch the last Terrence Malick movie, The New World, in special movie theaters equiped with globes underneath their seats mixing different scents based on 6 essential oils. The scents' compositions are downloaded from NTT Communication's servers to a local server.

In July of 2005, ScentAir had already been able to perfume the air with chocolate at the premiere of Charlie and the Chocolate Factory.

Source: "Le cinéma se met au parfum" dated April 24, 2006, by Hélène Puel at www.01net.com


April 26, 2006

Perfume Review & Musings: Eau de Cologne à La Russe, à La Française et à l'Italienne by Pierre Bourdon for Institut Très Bien

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On a recent trip to Paris I came accross a line of niche colognes that I think have good chances of pleasing amateurs of refined and understated fragrances as well as potentially proving to be a welcome addition to the fragrance wardrobes of people who are looking for fumes discrete enough to wear at the office. They will also probably pique the curiosity of history buffs and rejoice Europeanophiles....


Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Eau de Cologne à La Russe, à La Française et à l'Italienne by Pierre Bourdon for Institut Très Bien" »

April 27, 2006

Scented Thoughts: Perfume List-Making and The Meaning of It



For whatever reasons people decide to compile lists, and lists of perfumes in particular, I find the results of this activity to be usually both interesting and entertaining as well as informative for the consumers that we are. The activity itself is fascinating, pointing to a seemingly innate urge to categorize the world and bring added meaning to it. Making lists is also a cataloguing activity; we want to store knowledge and preserve it in a clear and accessible way. How do we classify fragrances and symbolically re-work the ready-made, packaged material presented to us by perfume brands? How do we symbolically re-order nature and society through the classification of scents? What values are expressed through that activity? How aesthetically satisfying can lists be? These are some of the questions I want to raise.

Lists, furthermore, are fun, beautiful, creative, personal, normative, erudite, informative, etc. They reflect a critical and selective activity and usually are meant to be helpful as well as be aesthetic pronouncements pointing to a more ideal world. They tell us what they think are "the best of" and where to find meaning, beauty, and harmony. They also offer us condensed, essential information. So, I've decided I will post lists of perfumes or of perfume-related information I come accross. I will probably pitch in too at some point. Don't hesitate to chime in to let us know what you would have put in any given list.

Tomorrow, I will post a list regarding the types of fragrances that certain types of men should be wearing.


Photo is from Institut Très Bien. It is a beautiful, poetical list of perfume notes. No selection here obviously, except in the choice of words, like Siam instead of Thailand. An a priori boring commercial list of ingredients is turned into a little work of art.

April 28, 2006

Perfume List: 5 Types of Fragrances for 5 Types of Men



Here is a digest of a posh list of masculine scents as compiled by French journalist Claire Mabrut for the Figaro, September 28, 2004:

- The Man with the British Touch: he is chic but he is also an eccentric, seemingly conservative and classic in his appearance, but revealing a bit of a nutty personality.

What should he wear? Falsely classic scents which are a bit skewed:


• London for Men, by Paul Smith (his clothes are also by Paul Smith)
• Brit for Men by Burberry, inspired by 70's icons Keith Richards and Mike Jagger
• Original Vetiver by Creed (when in the City)
• Penhaligon Racquet's Formula (when in the City)
• Sonia Rykiel Grey when he goes back to France (where he is allowed to be more sensual apparently)

-The Business man: on the go, organized, busy. He favors a discrete type of elegance.

• L'Essenza di Zegna (his clothes are by Zegna)
• Ferre Lui de GF
• Jil Sander Pure for Men
• Carolina Herrera Chic

-The Bourgeois-Dandy: he just doesn't know how to behave ordinarily. His perfumes as well as his clothes and art objects are meticulously researched. Each ingredient in his perfumes must correspond to his personality.

• Cologne Blanche by Hedi Slimane for Dior (based on an 18th century recipe)
• Colognes à La Russe, à L'Italienne et à La Française by Institut Très Bien
• Guerlain L'instant for Men
• Hugo Boss Baldessarini (when on a romantic date)

-The Luxury Sportsman and Traveller: he drives luxury cars, goes yachting and travels to exotic destinations

• L'Artisan Parfumeur Timbuktu (brought it back from Africa)
• Issey Miyake L'Eau Bleue
• Roger & Gallet Cologne (reminds him of Sicily)
• Salvatore Ferragamo Incanto for Men

-The Mountain Type: he likes to be seen at hip ski resorts. Likes refinement and follows fashion. He is also a seducer.

• Armani Black Code
• Escada Magnetism for Men
• Gucci for Men
• Yves Saint Laurent M7Fresh (when he skis)


Perfume Review & Musings: Trouble by Boucheron

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Ladies, be forewarned here: if you ever decide to visit beautiful Scotland, and opt to wear Trouble by Boucheron, you may provoke not only some "trouble" (the French word) amongst the menfolk there -- that is, a gentle, almost shy turmoil of the senses, of an understated, sexual nature -- you may downright get yourself into trouble (the English word) and be confused with the sort of woman you do not wish to be identified with (at least, this is what I am assuming). What delicate visions of femininity did Trouble by Boucheron evoke to Scottish testers? "Corsets, closed velvet curtains and leave the cheque on the table." "Slut."

Thus we learn, ahem, of the, perhaps, lower level of tolerance in Scotland for, shall we say, "sensual" perfumes (among certain Scots, "sluttish" perfumes, presumably). Actually, does anyone know of any "sluttish" perfumes -- that is, ones that sex workers think are good for their trade?Also, if you are from Scotland and you are reading this, please consider sharing with us your personal opinion of Trouble and of women travellers who wear it while traipsing about your moors...


Continue reading "Perfume Review & Musings: Trouble by Boucheron" »

April 2006 Archive

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